
(lass . 



Hook 



PRESENTED IFi 



T 



A 

GUIDE BOOK OF BOSTON 

ADOPTED BY THE 

New England Hardware Dealers' Association 

FOR THE 

JOINT CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION 

OF THE 

National Retail Hardware Association 

i 

AND THE 

New England Hardware Dealers' Association 

HELD AT 

MECHANICS' BUILDING 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 




F. ALEXANDER CHANDLER 

Editor of Hardware Convention Edition 

JUNE 12-16, 1916 



Editor 
40/6 



- 7 3 





G. A. Pauly 

Treasurer 

St. Louis, Mo. 





D. Fletcher Barber 

President 

Boston, Mass. 



M. L. Corey 

Secretary 
Argos, Ind. 



C. T. Woodward 

1st Vice President 

Carlinville, 111. 




J. R. Gamble 

2nd Vice President 

Wetumpka, Ala. 



OFFICERS OF THE 
NATIONAL RETAIL HARDWARE ASSOCIATION 

1915-1916 
3 




OFFICERS OF THE 
NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

1915-1916 



James Strockbine 
1st Vice President 
Watertown, Conn. 

George A. Fiel 

Secretary 
Boston, Mass. 



Chas. <). Eaton 

2nd Vice President 
Brunswick, Mi-. 

Henry M. Sanders 

President 
Boston, Mass. 



James P. M.u km 

Auditor 

Brookline, Mass. 

Calvin M. Nichols 
Treasurer 
Boston, M 




BOARD OF DIRECTORS OF THE 
NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

1915-1916 



\V. A. l J l£ARSl>\ 


I). X. Clark 


Arthur C. Lamson 


Holyoke, Mass. 


Shelton, Conn. 


Marlboro. Mass. 


W'm. K. Toolb 


11. \V. SlBLEY 


C. H. LANDON 


Pawtucket, R. 1. 


Ware, Mass. 


Rutland, Vt 




BOARD OF DIRECTORS OF THE 
NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS* ASSOCIATION 

1915-1916 



James Dk F. Phelps 

Windsor Locks. Conn. 



J. Douglas Law 
Springfield, Mas-. 



James P. Mackey 
Brookline. Mass. 



E. C. Hoagi I 
Concord. X. II. 



B. II. Newell 
Shelburne Falls. Mass. 



W'm. B. .Scott 
Newport, R. I. 




1X94 and 1H0N 



!()()«» 



ADVISORY BOARD OF PAST PRESIDENTS 

OF THE 

NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 



John H. Sayward 
Haverhill, Mass. 



John B. Hunter F. Alexander Chandler 

Boston, Mass. Boston. Mass. 



S. H. Thompson 
Lowell, Mass. 



Frank E. Peirson 
Pittsfield, Mass. 





1896 and lHKi 



1**1 1 and 191: 





I «.»]:< 



1914 



ADVISORY HOARD OF PAST PRESIDENTS 

OF THE 

NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 



D. Fletcher Barber 
Boston, \las^. 



Frank E. Stacy 
Springfield, Mass. 



\V\i. II. Sawyer 
Providem e, R 1 



\R I HI R J . < ISHORNK 

Holvokf. Mass 







OFFICERS OF THE 

NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE ASSOCIATES 

1915-1916 



H. G. Cloyes 
President 
The Yale & Towne Mfg. Co. 



Frank J. Shay 

1st Vice President 

M oiler & Schumann Co. 



Frank G. Hathaway 

Treasurer 
The Carborundum Co. 



John A. O'Keefk 

Secretary 

Spencer Kellogg & Co, 



THE COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS 

EXECUTIVE CHAMBER 

STATE HOUSE, BOSTON 

May 25, 191ti. 
MR. I-. ALEXANDER CHANDLER, 

Chairman Convention Committee, National and New England 

Hardware Dealers' Association. 

32-38 Federal Street, Boston. 
Dear Sir: 

I beg to acknowledge receipt of your letter of recent date, 
advising me of the Convention of the National and New England 
Retail and Hardware Associations, which is to be held in Boston 
beginning June 12th of this year. 

1 take pleasure in extending to the members a cordial welcome 
on behalf of the Commonwealth. I hope the Convention may be 
attended by a very large number of your Associations, as it fur- 
nishes an opportunity of disseminating a knowledge of the latest 
mechanical devices and appliances in your trade and of furthering 
a more friendly spirit among the members of the Associations in 
nearby cities. 

The people of Massachusetts are always glad to have Boston 
selected as a convention city, and it is my earnest hope that the 
members will visit the many manufacturing and historic points of 
interest in this vicinity. I am sure that a most hearty welcome 
will be accorded your members wherever they go. I should be 
very glad personally to extend whatever courtesies the Governor 
of the Commonwealth can on such an occasion. 

With best wishes for the success of your Convention, I remain, 

Sincerely yours, 

S. W. McCALL. 



10 



CITY OF BOSTON 
OFFICE OF THE MAYOR 



April 25, 1916. 

National Retail Hardware Association. 
New England Retail Hardware Association. 

Gentlemen: 

As Mayor of the City of Boston, I desire to extend to you, in 
your joint convention, a most hearty welcome to our city. In 
behalf of our manufacturers, our business men and our citizenship 
in general I offer you this greeting. Boston is honored by your 
coming, and it is Boston's wish that your stay will live long in your 
memories as a period of mutual entertainment, instruction and 
advancement in your particular line of endeavor. 

You will find Boston an ideal convention city — a city whose 
very environment is conducive to successful business and social 
meetings. We have unusual advantages, attractions and facilities, 
and I am of the opinion that your joint convention will meet with 
nothing but success. 

It is a pleasure to have you with us, and I trust that you, gentle- 
men of the retail hardware trade, will leave Boston with a lively 
conception of our ability, not alone to entertain, but to offer rare 
business advantages to those who locate amongst us. 

Sincerely, 

JAMES M. CURLEY, 

Mayor of Boston. 



11 



BOSTON CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 
177 MILK STREET 



Boston, Mass., May is, 1916. 

MR. I). FLETCHER BARBER, 

President National Retail Hardware Dealers' Association, 
Boston, Mass. 

Dear Sik: 

Boston has long been known as one of the most substantial 
cities of t his- country, and as such welcomes you, the substantial 
nun of the country, who represent what can well be said to be- the 
most substantial of all retail merchandise — hardware. 

We are all prone to speak from experience, and in our Cham- 
ber of Commerce work we have found among our most valuable 
members, those affiliated with the retail hardware trade. 

Those of you who have not been in Boston, we welcome most 
of all, because we feel that before leaving here you will realize that 
the pride which we Bostonians take in our community is fully 
justified. We regret that w r e cannot claim for our generation the 
building of the historic and beautiful spots which I hope you will 
see while here. It took years and a tremendous amount of energy 
on the part of our business ancestors to make our city what it is. 
However, we can show, and hope you will take pains to see, before 
leaving Boston, the many evidences of commercial and industrial 
progress, the work of an active and wide-awake business community. 

You will find the people of Boston most hospitable. You will 
find them anxious to welcome you here and to entertain you in a 
way that will make you leave with the very best impressions of 
this city. 

1 hope that nothing but success will attend every phase of 
this meeting of your Association. May you all, in years to come, 
look back on your L916 Boston Convention as most bountiful in 
pleasure and fruitful in enduring achievement. 

Cordially yours, 

LOUIS K. LIGGETT, 

President. 



12 



THE NATIONAL RETAIL HARDWARE ASSOCIATION 

Office of the President, 124 Summer St., Boston, Mass. 

xt o April 18, 1916. 

lo the Members of the National Retail ' 

Hardware Association. 
Greeting : 

We shall greet our brothers of the Hardware Fraternity with 
their wives and other invited guests, and welcome them most 
heartily to Boston, in the delightful month of June. 

Those who have been delegates to the National Conventions 
other years will remember that the New England delegates have 
endeavored to work faithfully to bring the Convention to Boston. 
But we have accepted the decisions of the Conventions of former 
years with good grace each time, and have endeavored to assist 
in the successes of the meetings wherever held. 

We appreciate the honor that has been afforded us by the 
National Retail Hardware Association in giving to New England 
the Presidency, and also in coming to Boston for its Seventeenth 
Annual Convention. 

You are coming to the native heath of your National Presi- 
dent, and I want to assure you that our New England Association 
and its individual members have been most ready to offer every 
support and all assistance toward the success of our National Con- 
vention. I believe that each delegate and visitor will note results, 
to prove that this New England Association has been most active, 
faithful and efficient, and has shown its ability through its Chair- 
men and membership in making this Convention the best ever 
held. We sincerely trust that everyone will realize that we wish 
to make it so, and any failure will be due to errors of the head and 
not of the heart. 

Every individual member of the various State Associations 
will be welcome, and I urge that everyone who can, will avail him- 
self of this opportunity, not only to attend the Convention him- 
self, but to bring with him his wife and daughters, and with them 
visit the historic places that abound in and about Boston. 

In this neighborhood more hardware is manufactured than in 
any other part of the country, and a visit to these factories will 
alone be worth the time and expense of the trip. And in addition 
to this — to the warm welcome that awaits you and to the bene- 
fits of the Convention — will be the great pleasure of a visit to 
those hallowed spots, dear to the heart of every true American, 
in which Boston is rich and which she has preserved for the edifi- 
cation of her countrymen, winning thereby their lasting gratitude 
and her own just glory. 

Let "On to Boston National 1916" be your cry — and a 
rousing Convention our great aim till June twelfth, when I earnestly 
hope we shall gather in record-breaking numbers at the Hub of the 
Universe. 

With most cordial greetings, Very truly, 

D. FLETCHER BARBER, 

President. 
13 



NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 
176 FEDERAL STREET 



Boston, May 15, 1916. 

To the Delegates of the National Retail 
Hardware Association: 

On behalf of the members of the New England Hardware 
I >ealers' Association, it gives me great pleasure to extend to you 
a most cordial welcome to New England and particularly at this 
season of the year, when all Nature is clothed in her loveliest garb 
and where we are favored with the most beautiful hills, the most 
charming valleys, the finest trees, and in Boston we have the ocean 
at our very door; it has been truly said that New England is really 
the summer playground, and every Hardware man knows it is the 
manufacturing centre of Hardware for the United States. 

Boston is not only an ideal convention city, but a city that 
everyone should be anxious to see and know because of its great 
historical interest, but I shall not dwell on these points, as this 
guide book was gotten up for that purpose. 

We hope the Convention of 1916 will be the largest and most 
successful in the history of the National Retail Hardware Associa- 
tion, so come and bring the whole family. The ladies have planned 
a most attractive program for our lady visitors, and we urge you 
all to come and enjoy the hospitality of the New England Hard- 
ware Dealers' Association. 

HENRY M. SANDERS, 

President. 



U 



Boston, Mass., May 15, L916. 

To the Ladies of the National Retail 
Hardware Association: 

This is to welcome you to Boston; if it be thought that the 
chill of our northern climate or the Puritanical taciturnity of our 
speech accompanies a coldness of heart, may ihis visit undeceive 
you. We feel sure that our June weather will show you that our 
climate can be hot with your hottest, and we hope that the hearti- 
ness of our greeting may prove to you that the New Ertglander 
can extend to her sisters from the other states the same warmth 
of cordiality and friendship with which she is received when she 
ventures forth from her northern fastness. 

If our entertainment is less lavish than that of the South, or 
less overwhelming than that of the West, remember that it is ex- 
tended with no less sincerity. 

Come and taste of the hospitality of the Ladies of the New 
England Hardware Dealers' Association, for it is " small cheer and 
a great welcome that make a merry feast." 

MRS. H. M. SANDERS, 

Chairman of Ladies' Committee. 



15 



HIGH SPOTS IN HISTORIC BOSTON 

By Roy F. Soule 

Editor of Hardware Age 

To be asked to write an article in the Guide Book of Boston 
is a reward of merit. 

The first time I visited this historic old city it took me just 
three minutes to get lost, and beyond a knowledge that I was still 
in Boston I didn't locate myself for three days. 

The last time I visited Boston I went straight to the New 
England Hardware headquarters, at 176 Federal St., without a 
break, and to friends who have congratulated me upon this accom- 
plishment I haven't yet confessed that I rode those three blocks 
from the station in a taxicab in order to keep out of the Lost and 
Found Columns. 

It is reported that the man who laid out Boston was not an 
undertaker, and that he was the owner of a bobtailed brindle bell 
cow. He laid out the streets following this contrary critter, and 
the result of his work has been a conundrum to wayfarers ever 
since. The trails of that bovine animal have been transformed 
by hustling New Englanders into busy business streets which still 
bear mute evidence that Old Brindle was trying to get out of ear 
shot, and that she repeatedly doubled on her trail. This cow was 
an ancestress of the animal that kicked Mrs. O'Leary's lantern 
in Chicago, started the big fire and initiated the stock yards and 
packing houses of the Windy City. 

This Guide Book should contain a word of warning. Don't 
try to travel too fast on Boston streets, or you will contract a case 
of land sea-sickness, a prevalent and melancholy malady. 

Should you by any chance be stricken, apply at once to F. 
Alexander Chandler for relief. To find him quickly walk a half 
moon from the Back Bay station and take a trolley. 

In the good old days Boston witchcraft was a profession which 
rivalled ironmongery in popularity and profits. This was long 
before the Irish invaded the town and early guide books contained 
the advertisements of practitioners of the art of witchery. Even 
in that day Boston believed in honest advertising, and the evil 
damning influence of witches who failed to deliver the goods, often 
floated away in thin blue trails of smoke. Unfortunate Boston 
females, born with the handicap of a bad eye, never cease to con 
gratulate themselves that clam-bakes are entertainments which, 
in polite society, have replaced invitations to witchburnings of the 
past. George A. Fiel is splendidly posted on "Witch Days in 
Boston." To find him, apply for information at any beanery. 

It) 



New England as a whole is famous for cranberries and li- 
braries. D. Fletcher Barber is posted on both. The Public Library 
is one place you ought to see. Right over the front door a stone 
mason cut these words, " The Public Library of the City of Bos- 
ton. Built by the People and Dedicated to the Advancement of 
Learning. A. D. 1888." In that Library are books by the million 
and old maids by the score. Go in there for a book and just barely 
mention what you are interested in, and one of those New England 
dames will suggest forty-five volumes you ought to read on the 
subject. Every book worth while refers to eighty or ninety others 
directly related. Books are like Smith day at the fair. D. F. 
Barber is one of the few Bostonians who has read 'em all. You 
will find him at the Library. Get off the New Haven at the Back 
Bay Station and follow the crowd. 

Many things have been lost in Boston. Don't feel lonesome 
il you get turned around. England lost a ship load of tea in the 
harbor over a century ago, and she hasn't found it yet. By the way, 
you ought to know Blackie Daw Whitehead. He's a cross section 
of the New England Hardware Circle. King George sent him over 
to locate that cargo of tea, and he stayed. His last report to the 
King said that he suspected a fellow by the name of Tango. Lock 
up your bonds and look up Blackie. Inquire in any Tango Tea 
Parlor. 

Then a regiment of Red Coats lost a few breastfuls of cock- 
suredness over at Bunker Hill. It's a long climb for a fat man, 
but Jim Mackey makes it on low in his Buick. Jim lives in the 
exclusive section of Boston known as" Brookline. Follow the 
stream and his store is on the right bank. If you can't tell the 
folks about Jim Mackey and Bunker Hill you wall never get a chance 
to talk to the history class of your local high school, when you go 
back to the old home town. 

Then there's an elm tree near Boston famous as the shady 
spot where General Burgoyne checked his sword on his first visit 
to the hub of learning. Burgoyne appreciated the shade after his 
warm journey from Canada, and it is still a favorite place to stop 
your car, and dig out your thermos bottle. Daily trips to this 
historic spot are run under the personal direction of Archie Osborne. 
Who's Archie? Ask any suffragette in New England and raise 
your umbrella before she answers. 

The city is full of guides and "Go slowly" signs — " Go slow 
don't go in Boston. Paul Revere was the first official guide and 
the crowd he brought to town on one memorable occasion held a 
convention that has been in executive session ever since. To see 
the Old North Church where "the lantern was hung in the belfry 
tower," is something none of us should miss. It is reported that 
J. B. Hunter has one of the original Paul Revere horseshoes. Yon 
are in luck if you can get him to show you the old North Church. 
To find J. B. is a simple matter. Leave your hotel by the front 
door, turn to the right, go straight ahead until you are just left of 
the hotel, and his hardware store is that neat-looking place with a 
crowd in front of the windows. 

17 



Faneuil Hall and Mechanics' Hall are two other places you 
can't afford to miss seeing. Since before the days when all hard- 
ware was sold in bundles Henry M. Sanders has been a recognized 
authority on these points of interest. Just ask any one for Henry 
.ind they will know who you mean. 

The leading cigar of Boston is the Blackstone. It i> a free 
burner, but misses fire near the butt. The taste is so distinctively 
New England that you will light and re-light them. James Stroek- 
bine is a specialist on Connecticut fillers. He says it is good form 
to re-light a Blackstone but an inch in length, despite the fact that 
strangers may accuse you of lighting a chew. 

The architecture of New England may seem strange to you, 
but the fact is that heaven is so close to Boston that a six-stor\ 
building gets you as near the Pearly Gates as mortals should be 
allowed. The law limits buildings to this height, but permits 
basements of any depth. The coolest basements are called grills, 
and are exceedingly popular. 

I could go on endlessly with good suggestions for the guidance 
of hardware visitors in Boston. It's a great town with corkscrew 
streets, corking good people, conservative only in a common sense 
way, and as cordial as any people anywhere. The more I see ol 
Boston the more certain I am that they built their streets in tangles 
just for the pleasure it gives the natives to help outsiders find them- 
selves when they get lost. 

Write your name and address plainly on your cuffs every 
evening, and you will be returned safely to your hotel every morning. 

For further information regarding Boston, attend every meet- 
ing of the Big Convention. Carry a note book and a dictionary 
in a little leather bag, and you will get by without suspicion. 



is 



BOSTON, THE " BOSS TOWN " 

On my initial visit to Boston, I asked the first man I met after 
leaving the railroad station, to direct me to a destination I had in 
mind. He was unable to aid me, but two other men, who had 
overheard the inquiry, stopped and offered their services. All three 
went out of their way a half-block to set me in the right path, 
and seemed surprised that 1 made so much of the service. They 
were used to it, I suppose. 

That's Boston! 

Boston in June! What more could be desired? Especially 
to those who were boys some years ago, and read in their school 
readers and histories of the magnificent record of this city in those 
days when men loaded their muskets instead of writing notes; 
read of the school boys of Boston, and their defiance of the King's 
Covernor; of Bunker Hill; of the Old South Church; of Paul 
Revere's Ride; of the Fathers and Mothers of New England, who 
were as inflexible in their patriotism as they were austere in their 
religion. They were prepared in their souls, and the material 
preparedness followed in sure psychological logic. Boston fas- 
cinates one — even her Codfish and Baked Beans take on a taste 
and an aroma that cannot be approached by truffles and trout 
elsewhere. 

The Hardware Man, or the Hardware Woman, who has a 
chance to visit Boston and does not improve it, will miss more than 
pen can describe. In that famous old story, " The Hoosier School- 
master," the one glittering spot in the life of an old maid was that 
winter she spent " in Bosting." Happy, indeed, are those who 
have a chance not only to see Boston in June, but to be towed from 
place to place by such Pilots of Hospitality as Barber, and Sanders, 
and Chandler, and Fiel, and " their sisters, their cousins and their 
aunts! " As Byron might have sung: 

There was a sound of revelry by day, 

When Bay State Capital had gathered there 

All Hardware's beauty, and its chivalry! 

When lights shone bravely on the Hardware Men 

Of East and West; of Spokane and Palm Beach; 

And all went merry as a marriage bell, 

And welkins rang with Barber's clarion yell! 

JAMES H. KENNEDY, 

Editor Hardware Dealers' Magazine, 



1<> 



A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE NATIONAL 
RETAIL HARDWARE ASSOCIATION 

By Ex-President \V. P. Bogardus 
of M t . Vernon, ( >hio 

To those not connected with the National Retail Hardware 
Association work, it may be of interest to learn, in a few words,some- 

thing of its inception, its work and what it has accomplished. 

During the World's Fair of 1893 a call for retail hardware 
merchants to meet in Chicago for the organization of a National 
Retail Hardware Association was issued; by whom I do not know, 
nor do I remember the number in attendance. I have, however, 
since talked of it with four gentlemen who responded to the call, 
— Mr. A. T. Stebbins of Rochester, Minn.; Air. I. A. Sibley of 
South Bend, Ind.; Mr. S. S. Bryan of Titusville, Pa.; and Mr. I). 
Fletcher Barber of Boston. 

Evidently the organization of this project was a few years ahead 
of time, as nothing came of it — not until a few years later, and after 
several state organizations had been in successful operation, did the 
time seem ripe for a national organization. 

In February of 1900, Mr. Z. T. Miller of Bloomington, 111., 
the president of the Illinois Association, issued invitations to the 
officers of the state organizations then in existence, to send dele- 
gates to Chicago on March 12, for the purpose of organizing a 
National Association. At this meeting were representatives from 
Illinois, Minnesota, North Dakota, Michigan, Iowa, Indiana, 
Wisconsin and Pennsylvania. The enthusiasm and harmony was 
most inspiring and unbroken by even a ripple, until the point of 
naming the organization was reached — a mere ripple then, but to 
my knowledge the only discord at the birth, and during the life 
thus far, of the National Retail Hardware Association, and there- 
fore worthy of note. This slight controversy sprang up when 
some of the delegates preferred for the organization the more modest 
name of Inter State, while others, looking to the future, declared 
for National Hardware Retail Association. 

Inter State won the day, and that little victory was indicative 
of the conservatism which has always ruled in the councils of the 
National Retail Hardware Association and was exhibited thus 
early in its existence. 

However, by the following year so main more >tate> had been 
organized and had sent delegates to the convention, that with one 
accord in 1901 Inter State stepped down and out for the National 
Retail Hardware Dealers' Association, from which name the word 
"dealers" was later omitted. 

20 



NATIONAL RETAIL HARDWARE ASSOCIATION 

At the second annual meeting of the association, in 1901, the 
first under the title of National Association, Mr. W. P. Lewis of 
New Albany, Ind., was elected president. At this meeting Mr. 
M. L. Corey of Argos, Ind., was elected secretary, and has ably 
filled the office ever since. His prudence and careful management 
have carried us through many a difficult place, and we owe much 
to his wise administration of his office. 

Mr. H. G. Cormick of Centralia, 111., followed Mr. Lewis as 
president. He was a forceful and good association man. 

At the close of Mr. Cormick's term a committee waited on Mr. 
W. P. Bogardus of Mt. Vernon, Ohio, and asked him if he would 
advocate a National Retail Hardware Dealers' Mutual Insurance 
Co. if he was elected president. Mr. Bogardus declined to pledge 
himself, but evidently what he said to the committee impressed 
them favorably, for he was nominated and elected president. 

A charter for a National Hardware Dealers' Mutual Insurance 
Co. was taken out Nov. 5, 1903, and Mr. C. H. Miller of Hunting- 
don, Pa., was made president. Mutual Hardware Insurance has 
saved our membership thousands of dollars in reduced premiums. 

During the years of Mr. Bogardus' incumbency of the office 
the plan for the president and secretary to visit the several state 
associations was developed, so that the national might keep in 
touch with the several state associations and the work they were 
doing. This meant not less than thirty days' time and at least 
ten thousand miles of travel. But the work was so interesting 
and the results so good that the time was given gladly and the 
discomforts of travel endured without a murmur. 

The question of how to meet the constantly increasing expense 
was ever with us, but the solution came when we decided to issue a 
monthly magazine devoted exclusively to the interests of the retail 
hardware man, and to get advertising that would help defray our 
expenses and benefit the retailer. That the solution was the cor- 
rect one is evident by the fact that the publication — The National 
Hardware Bulletin — takes a prominent place in the list of trade 
papers devoted to the interests of hardware men. 

At this time the National Retail Association was beginning 
to attract attention from both manufacturers and jobbers. In 
1904 an invitation was given the president and secretary of the 
National Retail Association to attend the meeting of the Manufac- 
turers and Jobbers, held that year in Atlantic City. 

It was the hope of the retailers that good would come out of 
such a conference, and they gladly accepted the invitation. When 
they arrived at Atlantic City, they found that neither of them 
had a place on the program, but that the advocates of parcels 
post had a place on the program of the manufacturers. It was 
an embarrassing position, but Mr. T. Jas. Ferneley, the secretary 
of the Jobbers' Association, solved the problem by recalling all 
of the jobbers' program and issuing a new one, giving place to 

21 



NATIONAL RETAIL HARDWARE ASSOCIATION 

the retailers. The first definite opposition to parcels post was 
voiced 1»\ the retailers at this meeting. The effect was so great 
tint pledges given for fund- for carrying on the campaign for par- 
cels posl were cancelled. The position taken by the retailers seemed 
so lair that their remarks were- ordered printed, and a copy sent 
to each member of Congress. Business men could see the justice 
in the case, bul when we came in contact with the politicians it 
was different . 

The meeting of the three branches of the hardware trade 
opened the \\a\ for the appointment of a Joint Committee of Man- 
ufacturers, Jobbers and Retail men to discuss questions of mutual 
interest. For several years joint conference meetings were held 
and of mutual profit, bringing out the difficulties confronting each 
branch of the track', and helped each to get the other's point of 
view. However, a desire for greater speed and more radical ac- 
tion brought about a breach that resulted in the discontinuance 
of the Joint COmmittec before its work was done. 

Mr. E. M. Bush of Evansville, Ind., was the next president. 
During his administration outside influences almost succeeded in 
putting the association on the rocks. But wise counsels and judi- 
cious management eventually averted the disaster, and the suit 
that had been started against the association was settled out of 
court, and all claims for damage were dropped. It is interesting 
to note the loyalty of the state organization-, even at this early 
period. With little money in tin- treasury to fight a court battle, 
.m appeal for help was made to the states, and within a week pledges 
and checks poured into the National Headquarters to the amount 
of 13,600. One hardware jobber manifested hi^ sympathy by 
sending a check for si 00. A number of members wrote offering 
to make personal contributions to the defense fund. 

The expense of preparing the case for trial was about $1,200. 
Within a year every dollar of the defense fund was returned to 
the contributing states, but the demonstration of loyalty, of back- 
ing and of confidence in the X. R. H. A. carried encouragement 
and inspiration to every association friend and worker. And that 
influence ^t ill lives today. The lesson of preparedness was heeded, 
and within the next five years a surplus was accumulated, and is 
constantly maintained in the treasury sufficient to meet any ordi- 
nary emergency. 

At the annual meeting held in Boston, Mass., in 1907, Mr. 
S. R. Miles of Mason City, Iowa, was elected president. Just 
before the election was completed, Mr. Miles received a telegram, 
advising him that his store had partially burned the night before. 
It was with a good deal of hesitancy- that Mr. Miles took up the 
rein- of authority while this disaster was facing him. 

The work of the association went quietly and steadily on 
during the administrations of Mr. Miles, Mr. A. T. Stebbins of 
Janesville, Wis.; Mr. ('. II. Williams of Streaton, 111.; Mr. H. L. 



NATIONAL RETAIL HARDWARE ASSOCIATION 

McNamara of Janesville, Wis., and Mr. Sharon E. Jones of 
Richmond, Ind. These were men of unusual ability, and the 
association grew and waxed strong under their management. 

During Mr. McNamara's term it was decided to send delegates 
to the state associations west of the Rocky Mountains to see if 
it were possible to get in closer touch with those associations. Mr. 
Miles and Mr. Bogardus were selected for this work. They visited 
the Idaho Association at Boise, the Washington Association at 
Spokane and the Oregon Association at Portland. While these 
associations were prospering and growing, the time for a closer 
affiliation did not seem to be ripe, and there was no action taken 
in the matter. But, ever since the national meetings have been 
enlivened by the presence of some members of those far-west associa- 
tions. 

For some time an effort had been made to impress on the 
minds of the retailers the importance of better salesmanship, 
better appearing stores, more system in the handling of stocks 
and a greater up-to-dateness, and this effort went so far as to assert 
that the prices paid for goods was not of such importance as to 
require much attention, but that all the energies of the retailers 
should be devoted to the selling end; that goods well bought 
were half sold, was an old-time fable, and not true. But Mr. 
H. F. Krenger of Neenah, Wis., with the help of others, brought 
to the attention of the retailers the fact that buying was quite as 
important as selling, and that goods must be well bought before 
they could be sold, and that if goods were not bought right, they 
could not be sold with any hope of profit. 

And so through the administrations of Mr. L. C. Abbott of 
Marshalltown, Iowa; Mr. C. A. Ireland of Ionia, Mich.; Mr. E. E. 
Mitchell of Morrillton, Ark.; and Mr. D. F. Barber of Boston, 
Mass., the Price and Service Bureau of our National Association 
has been developed, and is proving a great help to our retail trade. 
It could be of much greater benefit and good if our trade would 
use it more freely. 

There can be no doubt of the value of association work to 
the retail trade. Cleaner stores, greater ambition, modern meth- 
ods, and a greater desire to cultivate the trade of both men and 
women are some of the indications of the progress that has come 
through the meetings of hardware men in the state and national 
conventions. The retail hardware trade stands on a firm founda- 
tion today because of the inspiration and the ideas received by the 
men who attend the Hardware Association meetings. 

Five times has our National Retail Hardware Convention 
met in Chicago, twice in Indianapolis, once in Minneapolis, once 
in St. Louis, once in Milwaukee, once in Denver, once in Little 
Rock, once in Detroit, once in Jacksonville, once in Indianapolis, 
once in St. Paul, and now in June of this year again at Boston. 



23 



THE NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE 
DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

(Affiliated with the National Retail Hardware Association) 

ORGANIZATION 

The New England Hardware Dealers' Association was organ- 
ized March 15, 1893, with a membership including wholesale and 
retail hardware dealers. The association held monthly meetings 
during seven or nine months of the year, which included business 
session and banquet, followed by entertainment and addresses by 
members or guests upon timely subjects. 

The work consisted of regulation of prices to a greater or less 
degree, and aided materially in promoting social intercourse among 
our constituent dealers. 

REORGANIZATION 

March *), 1904, a meeting was held at the Boston Merchants 
Association to reorganize the association. This reorganization 
was brought about as a result of a conference between some of the 
wholesale and retail dealer members, who believed that the associa- 
tion could develop into a larger field of work as a strictly retailers' 
association, in view of the fact that a jobbers' association, known 
as the New England Iron and Hardware Association, had been 
organized. 

At the time of the reorganization an election of officers was 
held and a new constitution and by-laws adopted. A series of 
circular letters were issued and sent to every retail hardware dealer 
in New England whose address was available to the secretary. 
As a result a large number of new members were secured and the 
new routine entered upon. 

The new order of things included regular monthly meetings 
of the executive committee at the rooms of the Boston Merchants' 
Association, and annual meetings of the entire membership on 
the " convention " plan, the idea in having a less number of gen- 
eral meetings being that a small committee could investigate and 
execute the business of the association better than the whole mem- 
bership, and that less frequent general meetings in our large terri- 
tory would be much more interesting and effective and more largely 
attended, especially in view of the fact that many smaller local 
associations of our trade are being formed in our section to handle 
main- of the detail arrangements. 

As a result of our association executive committee work, a 
number of irregularities reported to them by members have been 
promptly, amicably and satisfactorily adjusted, and, we believe, 
as would not be possible by individual action. 

2-1 



NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

OUR FIRST ANNUAL CONVENTION 

Our first annual convention was held at the Hotel Vendome, 
Boston, on March 15 and 16, 1905. A number of prominent man- 
ufacturers made displays in halls adjacent to the meeting rooms, 
which proved very interesting to the large number present. The 
meetings were addressed by prominent speakers, whose remarks 
were of much value and well received. 



THE " CONVENTION " PLAN 

The " Convention " plan was a new departure of our trade 
in New England, and which we believe, creates a feeling of fellow- 
ship and enthusiasm among our members and friends such as can 
be brought about in no other way. 

We believe that interchange of ideas and experience among 
members of the same trade, coming from persons engaged in pur- 
suit of trade in the same lines, but under different conditions, will 
result mutually profitable to all concerned, just as conventions and 
meetings of co-operative associations like ours should. 



OUR CONVENTIONS 

Our 1906 annual convention and exhibition was held at the 
Hotel Vendome in Boston. 

In 1907 the National Association accepted our invitation to 
be our guests and met with us in joint convention held at the New 
American House, Boston, where we also held an exhibition. 

In 1908 we again held our convention and exhibition at the 
Hotel Vendome, Boston. 

In 1909 we accepted the invitation of our membership from 
western New England, and held our convention and exhibition in 
Springfield, Mass. 

In 1910 our convention and exhibition had assumed such 
proportions as to necessitate larger quarters, and we therefore 
held our 1910 convention and exhibition in the Mechanics Building, 
Boston. 

The convention and exhibition of 1911 and 1912 were held 
in Mechanics Building. 

In 1913 we again accepted the invitation of our members from 
western New England and held our convention and exhibition at 
Springfield, Mass., at this time in the new municipal Audito- 
rium, being the first business organization to bring a convention 
to this handsome building. 

In 1914 we again came to Boston with our convention and 
exhibition, this time holding same at Horticultural Hall. 

In 1915 we again returned to the Mechanics Building, Boston, 
with our convention and exhibition. 

25 



NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

PERMAN E NT H EADQUA RTERS 

In 1910 the growth and prospects of the association appeared 
such as to warrant the undertaking of the establishment of a per- 
manent Headquarters, and same wen- established in the Weld 
Building, at 17ti Federal Street, Boston. 

The Headquarters have been maintained since and proven to 
l»i' invaluable and of great assistance to the members as a meeting 
place and central bureau tor the exchange of information and gen- 
eral knowledge of trade value. 

The office of permanent Secretary, which was created in 1910, 
was first held by Ralph \V. Richards, later succeeded by George 
A. Kiel, the present incumbent. 

The New England Hardware News, the official organ of our 
Association, is edited monthly from Headquarters, by the Secretary. 



OUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE 

Realizing that changes in our business life are rapidly taking 
place, we shall attempt by co-operation to meet these conditions 
and to secure for each member every advantage to be gained b\ 
unity of action and purpose. 

Some of the objects to be obtained are: 

1. Closer social and business relations, with the purpose in 
view of exchange of unsalable goods, interchange of opinions in 
matters of credit and other matters of valuable information. 

2. Prevention of trade abuses and grievances by having same 
reported promptly to the executive committee of the association 
for investigation and action. 

3. Securing the benefits of unity and consequent strength 
in the more general matters of trade arbitration and legislation, 
more or less affecting one another's business and social life. 

It is not intended to encourage any scheme of individuals or 
firms, but to consider and act upon all matters pertaining to the 
welfare of the trade. 



OCR AFFILIATED ORGANIZATIONS 

Our association is affiliated with the National Retail Hardware 
Association, and one of our members is president of that association. 

We are also affiliated with the Chamber of Commerce of the 
United States of America, the Massachusetts State Board of Trade, 
the National Fire Prevention Association, the National One Cent 
Letter Postage Association and the National Peace Conference. 

Various local boards of trade and chambers of commerce and 
local hardware associations are represented by membership in our 
association. 

26 



NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

THE NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE 
ASSOCIATES 

At our convention in 1910 a group of manufacturers, jobbers 
and their representatives, who were not eligible under our by-laws 
to membership regularly in our Association, but who were interested 
in our general work, associated themselves together into an organ- 
ization known as the New England Hardware Associates. 

This organization have held meetings regularly, coincident with 
our meetings and have been of great assistance and co-operation 
in the general hardware association movement in our midst. 

The Associate body has steadily grown in membership, and it 
is expected to reach a total of a round 500 members before the 
National Convention, to be held here in June. 

THE NATIONAL RETAIL HARDWARE ASSOCIATION 

The National Retail Hardware Association has upon its rolls 
at present about 15,000 active members, representing that number 
of live, up-to-date retail hardware men. The association is fast 
increasing in membership through the addition of local territorial 
organization and the formation of many new local associations. 
It is expected that in a very short time the enrollment will pass 
t he 25,000 mark. The national officers are exceptionally fitted 
for their executive duties, and meet and act upon matters of vital 
interest to the trade individually and collectively in a wise and 
effective manner. 

The National Bulletin, published quarterly, is mailed free to 
National Association members, and contains full pages of informa- 
tion, suggestions and timely hints, and warnings of doings and 
things necessary to be done for the perfection and harmony of trade 
conditions. 

AS TO LOCAL ASSOCIATIONS IN NEW ENGLAND 

There are at present a number of local hardware association* 
in New England which are enabled to handle matters of local im- 
portance, such as local credits and price adjustments, in a more 
satisfactory manner than through the larger field. It is, therefore, 
the line of action to have representatives or the entire membership 
of these local associations also join the New England Association, 
that with us we may co-operatively work out the larger problems 
arising in our territory and in turn report them to the national 
organization. 

The Secretary will be pleased to communicate at all times 
and give any available information to aid any dealer toward the 
formation of a new local association or the affiliation of such with us. 



NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

REASONS FOR JOINING THE NEW ENGLAND HARD- 
WARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

1. BECAUSE it identifies you with the organization of the 

hardware men of New England. 

2. BECAUSE it places you in touch with the best dealers in 
other states bv giving you a membership in the NATIONAL 
ASSOCIATION, and the National Hardware Bulletin FREE. 

:!. BECAUSE there are issues to be met and questions settled 
in the hardware trade that need the united intelligence and force 
of the wide-awake and intelligent dealers acting as a unit. 

4. BECAUSE at our convention you will meet and hear 
many of the most successful men in the hardware business. 

5. BECA1 SE our association needs your help, experience 
and backing in carrying out its plans. 

6. BECAUSE your business will be improved by our confer- 
ences and protected by our efforts against piratical competition 
and vicious legislation. 

7. BECAUSE we need your help and you need ours. This 
i> an age of organization. 

AS TO APPLICATIONS FOR MEMBERSHIP 

The Secretary is in frequent receipt of inquiries regarding the 
steps necessary to be taken in order to secure admission to the 
New England Hardware Dealers' Association and the dues and 
assessments required. The following extracts from the by-laws 
answer these inquiries: 

Article I. Membership 

Any person in New England engaged in the business of selling 
hardware at retail, and known and recognized as a regular retail 
hardware dealer, may become a member of this organization. 

Article II. Membership Dues 

Sec. 1. Each individual member of a firm shall be eligible 
lor membership by paying yearly dues. 

Sec. 2. The dues of each member shall be $5.00 per year. 

Article III. Applications for Membership 

Sec. 1. All applications for membership shall be in the blank 
provided by this association, and shall be accompanied by the 
membership fee. 

Sec. 2. All such applications for membership shall be referred 
id the Executive Committee, and if approved by them shall be 
admitted to membership. 

28 



NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

THE 1916 JOINT CONVENTION 

Believing that it would be of vital interest to the promotion 
of the best interests of the trade in general — retailer, jobber and 
manufacturer — to have a national convention in our territory 
to which representatives of each phase of trade-life might come, 
our delegates to the 1915 National Convention at St. Paul were 
instructed to endeavor to secure the 1916 meeting at Boston. Even 
though many other cities were eagerly working for the convention, 
the New England delegates did not lose hope. 

The delegates had prepared themselves in advance of their 
attendance with strong letters of invitation from various allied 
New England commercial bodies and had also prepared a 4000-foot 
film picture, showing many of the interesing spots, scenically, 
civically and historically, about New England, and, in addition, 
views in the plants of sixteen prominent New England hardware 
manufacturers. 

This film was shown privately in New England before its trip 
to St. Paul, and the attendant publicity afforded it by the daily 
and trade press proved a valuable forerunner of the work of the 
delegates. Immediately upon the arrival at St. Paul the New 
England delegates got busy and succeeded in polling a good vote 
in favor of Boston, which was promptly made unanimous. It was 
thought best to have the New England Convention, usually held 
in March, postponed until the dates of the National Convention, 
in order that all members might have the benefit of the larger and 
more varied exchange of ideas and experiences. 

TIME AND PLACE 

Upon considering the matter further, our executive committee 
decided to designate the dates of June 12 to 17 inclusive as the 
time and Mechanics Building as the place of the exhibition, and 
Paul Revere Hall in the Mechanics Building as the place of the 
Convention, and the Hotel Lenox as the Hotel Headquarters. 

We have secured ample reception suites for committee meet- 
ings, a most desirable convention hall for the assemblies and large 
and well laid out auditorium as exhibition rooms, — all opening 
en suite. 

The Hotel Lenox, the hotel Headquarters, is but a short dis- 
tance from the Convention Hall, and in addition thereto there are 
a number of smaller hotels in the immediate vicinity. 

EXCURSIONS AND SIGHT-SEEING 

In addition to the business portion of the program, trips are 
being arranged for and excursions to shore resorts, and pilgrimages 
to Lexington and Concord and other historical and interesting 
sections. 

29 



NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

The committees of the Dealers' Association are being assisted 
by a committee from the Associates and a very able committee of 
ladies. 

Although the Massachusetts Institute of Technology are to 
have a large reunion and extensive dedicatory exercises in connec- 
tion with the opening ol their new group of buildings, and although 
the National Wholesale Grocers' Association are also to meet in 
Boston the same week, we still can assure the delegates a com- 
fortable and enjoyable program throughout, if they will take the 
ordinary precautions of advising our respective committees, in 
advance, full details of their plans of arrival and desires as to pro- 
gram. 



INFORMATION TO MEMBERS AND GUESTS 

It is important that your name and those of your party, be 
registered immediately upon your arrival. 

It is necessary to advise of your desire to participate in tin- 
affairs of the program and to make early exchange of coupons for 
tickets. 

It is absolutely necessary to have these tickets, to be able to 
enjoy the program as laid out by the Local Committee, and you 
will assist that Committee if you will attend to this at once. 



.10 



OFFICERS OF THE NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE 
DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

1915-1916 

President, Henry M. Sanders, 27 Eliot St., Boston. 

1st Vice President, James Strockbine, Watertown, Conn. 
2d Vice President, Chas. O. Eaton, Brunswick, Me. 
Treasurer, Calvin M. Nichols, Boston. 
Secretary, Geo. A. Fiel, Boston. 

Advisory Board of Ex-Presidents 

J. H. Sayward, Haverhill, Mass.; J. B. Hunter, Boston, Mass.; 
F. A. Chandler, Boston, Mass.; S. H. Thompson, Lowell, Mass.; 
F. E. Peirson, Pittsfield, Mass.; D. Fletcher Barber, Boston, Mass.; 
Frank E. Stacy, Springfield, Mass.; Wm. H. Sawyer, Providence. 
R. I.; Archie J. Osborne, Holyoke, Mass. 

Directors 

Three-year term, W. A. Pearson, Holyoke, Mass.; D. N. Clark, 
Shelton, Conn.; Arthur C. Lamson, Marlboro, Mass.; Wm. K. 
Toole, Pawtucket, R. I. Two-year term, H. W. Sibley, Ware, Mass.: 
C. H. Landon, Rutland, Vt.; J. Douglas Law, Springfield, Mass.; 
J. DeF. Phelps, Windsor Locks, Conn. One-year term, James P. 
Mackey, Brookline, Mass.; Wm. B. Scott, Newport, R. L; B. H. 
Newell, Shelburne Falls, Mass.; E. C. Hoague, Concord, N. H. 



THE OFFICERS OF THE NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE 
ASSOCIATES AS ELECTED FOR 1916-1917 ARE: 

President, Harold G. Cloves, The Yale & Towne Mfg. Co. 

Vice-President, Frank J. Shav, Moller & Schumann Co., 
85 Purchase Street. 

Treasurer, Frank G. Hathaway, The Carborundum Com- 
pany, 197 Congress Street. 

Secretary, John A. O'Keefe, Spencer Kellogg & Sons. 

Directors 

J. E. Barnum, Barnum & Stone, Boston 

A. P. HiTTL, Sherwin & Williams, Boston 

C. E. Ware, Pyrene Co., of New England 

|. F. Miller, Bigelow & Dowpe Co., Boston 
J. R. BEATTY, The Fairbanks Company 

Advisory Board of Ex-Presidents 

A. G. Bowman Will T. Hedges H. M. Gordon 

Pall F. Burke W. P. R<> S s W. W. Beal 

31 



NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

COMMITTEES 

The following is a complete list of the appointments made 1>\ 
President Henry M. Sanders, of the Dealers' Association, to serve 
on Committees for the year 1915-1916: 

Adjustment Committee — A. J. Osborne, Chairman, Holyoke; 1-". K. Stacy, 
Springfield; W. H. Sawyer, Providence, R. I.; J. II Sayward, Haverhill; 

S. II. Thompson. Lowell. 

Legislative Committee — C. L. Underhill, Chairman, Somerville; F. E. Stacy, 
Springfield; W. W. True, Newport. Yt.; Geo. E. Saunders. Boston; Wm. B. 
Scott, Newport, R. I. 

Permanent Headquarters — D. Fletcher Barber, Chairman, Boston; J. P. 

Mai key, Brookline; James A. Munroc, Boston. 

Membership Committee — II. P. King, Chairman. Portland. Me.; E. C. Hoague. 
Concord, N. II.; C. H. Landon, Rutland, Vt.; H. W. Sibley, Ware, Mass.; 

W. II. Sawyer, Providence, R. I.; E>. N. Clark, Shelton, Conn. 

Efficiency Committee — F. A. Chandler, Chairman. Boston; B. C. Pierce. 
Taunton; E. P. Turner, Boston; F. E. Peirson, Pittsfield; W. C. Fuller Mans 
field. 

Trade Relations Committee — F. E. Peirson, Chairman, Pittsfield; B. M. 
Scott, Worcester; A. C. Lamson, Marlboro; Harrison H. Turner. Lawrence; 
M. A. Chandler, Boston. 

Press Committee — h . A. Chandler, Chairman, Boston; George A. Fiel, Bos- 
ton; Walter C. English, Boston. 

Finance Committee — C. M. Nichols. Chairman. Boston; James 1*. Mackey, 
Brookline; J. F. Willett, Boston. 

Publication Committee — J. B. Hunter. Chairman, Boston; ('. M. Nichols, 
Boston; Henry M. Sanders, Boston. 

Railroad Committee — C. S. Farquhar, Chairman. Boston; C. E. Dudley, 

Providence. R. I.; II. II. Hagar, Burlington, Yt.; C, O. Eaton. Brunswick. Me.; 
W. II. Underwood, Manchester, N. H.; Chas. M. Beach. New Milford. Conn. 

Insurance Committee — George A. Fiel, Chairman, Boston; R. W. Wastcoat, 
Huston; James Strockbine, Watertown, Conn.; J. II. Seavey, Dover. \" 11.; 
W. K. Toole, Pawtucket, R. I. 

Constitution and By-Laws Committee — ■ S. H. Thompson, Chairman, Lowell; 
A. J. Osborne, Holyoke; Jas. DeF. Phelps, Windsor Locks. Conn. 

Special Committee on Merchant Marine — F. E. Stacy, Chairman, Spring- 
field; C. L. Underhill, Somerville; W. C. English, Revere 

Special Committee on Permanent Non-Partisan Tariff Commission 

S. II. Thompson, Chairman. Lowell; F. E. Peirson. Pittsfield; A. B. Reed. 
North Abington; C. E. Doane, Middleboro; A. K. Parker. Norwood. 

N. k. Clean Up and Paint Up Committee — S. 11. Thompson. Chairman. 
Lowell; Charles O. Eaton, Brunswick. Me.; II. L. Sawyer, Providence, R. I.; 
II II. Hagar. Burlington, Yt.; Arthur E. Moreau, Henry M. Sander-- and 
George \. Fiel. 



32 



NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE DEALERS' ASSOCIATION 

COMMITTEES 

The following is a list of the appointments, made by President 
Henry M. Sanders of the N. E. H. D. A., to serve on the Conven- 
tion Committees for 1916: 
Convention and Entertainment Committee — F. A. Chandler, Chairman, 

Boston; C. L. Underhill, Somerville; A. C. Lamson, Marlboro; W. W. Beal, 

Boston; H. M. Gordon, Boston. 
Ladies' Convention Committee — Mrs. H. M. Sanders, Chairman, Boston; 

Mrs. D. F. Barber, Newton; Mrs. J. B. Hunter, Newton; Mrs. F. A. Chandler, 

Boston; Mrs, S. H. Thompson, Lowell. 
Exhibition Committee — Calvin M. Nichols, Chairman; C. H. Stevens, Ar- 
lington; C. H. Dwinell, Waltham; H. W. Colton, Cambridge; J. P. Mackey, 

Brookline. 
Hotel Committee — J. B. Hunter, Boston. 
Committee on Badges — Calvin M. Nichols, Chairman, Boston; Russell H. 

Nichols, Boston. 
Luncheon Committee — ■ W. W. Beal, Chairman; Ralph Barber, Lester Hunter, 

Ernest C. Farland, E. W. Hinckley. 
Pop Concert Committee — F. A. Chandler, Chairman; Ernest Davis, John 

H. Robinson, H. G. Cloyes, Paul Burke, J. E. Barnum, John A. O'Keefe. 
Ball Committee— C. L. Underhill, Chairman; H. G. Cloyes, A. P. Hittl, A. G. 

Bowman, O. C. Alderman, A. J. Osborne, C. H. Stevens. 
Outing Committee — James P. Mackey, Chairman; Chas. Marks, Dan Camp- 
bell, Paul Burke, W. P. Ross, John Whitcomb. 
Committee on Automobiles — A. C. Lamson, Chairman; Hector Gordon, 

James P. Mackey, Nathan Ames, E. H. Kearney. 
Committee on Guide Book — -Secretary J. F. Miller, H. G. Cloyes, Chauncey 

English, F. A. Chandler. 
General Guide Committee — -Hector M. Gordon, Chairman; C. M. Nichols, 

Austin G. Brown, A. S. Johnston, Raymond Woolf. 
Place of Next Meeting Committee — -Frank E. Stacv, Springfield, Chairman; 

H. L. Russell, Holyoke; B. M. Scott, Worcester; C. E. Dudley, Providence, 

R. I.; C. O. Eaton, Brunswick, Me. 
Telephone-Pacific Night Committee — C. A. Field, Taunton, Chairman; 

N. P. Haves, New Bedford; H. G. Fiske, Natick; W. C. Vaughn, Boston; A. T. 

Munn, Lowell; H. G. Cloyes, Boston; D. Findlay, Athol; R. E, Conder, Cam- 
bridge; C. Weare, Boston. 

The following is a list of the appointments made by President 
H. G. Cloyes of the Associates to serve on the Convention Com- 
mittees for 1916: 

Reception Committee — W. W. Beal, Chairman; Geo. A. F. Perry; C. E. 

Bragdon; J. B. Sedgwick; A. K. Woodward. 
Registration Committee — W. P. Ross, Chairman; L. T. Shipman; C. S. 

Davis, Jr. 
Publicity and Press Committee — Chauncey F. English, Chairman; Chas. 

E. Ware, Jr.; J. R. Stout; J. F. Miller. 
Constitution and By-Laws Committee — Paul F. Burke, Chairman; W. T. 

Hedges; John T. Barnum. 

Membership Committee — Maine, A. W. Bell, F. H. Ripley; New Hamp- 
shire and Vermont, O. M. Flather; Massachusetts, A. Raymond Woolf, C. S. 
Angell, Geo. H. Hoyt; Rhode Island, C. A. Cross, Wm. A. Ripley; Connect- 
icut, R. M. Sarles, L. E. Smith. 

Entertainment Committee — W. T. Hedges, Chairman; A. G. Bowman; H. M 
Gordon; Paul Burke; W. P. Ross; W. W. Beal. 

33 



PROGRAM 

\1A\ ENGLAND AND NATIONAL RETAIL HARDWARE 

VSSOC1 \TIOX 

Monday, June 12, 1916. 

10.00 A.M. Register at Registration Booth, Me- 

chanics Building. 

10.00 A.M. Opening of X. E. 11. 1). A. Animal 

Exhibition in Mechanics Building. 
12.00 M. I >ealers' J )ay — Box Luncheon. 

1.00 P.M. Opening of X. E. H. D. A. Annual 

Convention in Paul Revere Hall. 
1.30 P.M. Executive committee meeting, X. R. 

II. A. at Hotel Lenox. 

8.00 P.M. Ladies' Informal Reception at Hotel 

Lenox. 

8.00 P.M. "Puritan Dinner" — Stag Night auspices 

Associates — New American House. 

Tuesday, June 13, 1916. 

7.30 A.M. Secretaries' Breakfast at Hotel Lenox. 

10.00 A.M. Second Day Annual Exhibition, Me- 

chanics Building. 
10.00 A.M. Opening of the National Convention. 

Open Meeting, Paul Revere Hall, 
Mechanics Building — Ladies and 
( Gentlemen. 

3.00 P.M. Automobile Trip, " About Historical 

Boston " — Ladies. 

8.00 P.M. " Pop " Concert - Symphony Hall - 

Ladies and Gentlemen. 

Wednesday, June 14, 1916. 

9.00 A.M. Opening Session, Paul Revere Hall — 

Ladies and ( Gentlemen. 

10.00 A.M. Third Day of Exhibition — Ladies and 

( Gentlemen. 

1.30 P.M. Automobile Trip to Cambridge, Lex- 

ington, Concord and Wall ham — 
Ladies. 

2.00 P.M. Opening Session, Paul Revere Hall — 

Ladies and (icntlemen. 

7.00 P.M. Along -the -Shore Trolley Trip — La- 

dies and Gentlemen. 

34 



Thursday, June 15, 1916. 
7.30 A.M. 
9.30 A.M. 

9.30 A.M. 

10.00 A.M. 

2.00 P.M. 



4.00 
7.00 



M. 

M. 



8.00 P.M. 



Secretaries' Breakfast at Hotel Lenox. 

Steamer "South Shore" for Plymouth 
— Ladies. 

Executive Session — Delegates and 
Members. 

Fourth Day Exhibition — Ladies and 
Gentlemen. 

Executive Session — Delegates and 
Members. 

Automobile Trip — Delegates only. 
"National Night" at Exhibition — 
Ladies and Gentlemen. 

' Telephone-Pacific " at Convention 
Hall, 56 St. Botolph Street — A 
unique and interesting voyage — 
Ladies and Gentlemen. 



Friday, June 16, 1916. 
9.00 A.M. 



1.15 P.M. 
3.00 P.M. 
6.00 P.M. 

Saturday, June 17, 1916. 



Annual Outing at Pemberton, Steamer 
" Rose Standish" from Rowe's Wharf 
— Ladies and Gentlemen. 

Old-Fashioned " Clam Bake." 
Pilgrimage to Fort Revere. 
Leave for Boston. 



All-Day Celebration of 
Day." 



Bunker Hill 



Special Note 

Delegates and members alike may attend all sessions, but 
delegates only have privileges of floor in discussion and voting. 

Each morning a detachment of Boy Scouts will be at the service 
of any delegates or guests desiring to visit shops, public buildings or 
other points of interest. Arrangements may be made at the Sec- 
retary's desk at Mechanics Building. 

Visitors' Cards extending the privileges of the Boston Chamber 
of Commerce, the Boston City Club, the Master Builders' Asso- 
ciation, the Pilgrim Publicity Association — the local Ad Men's Club 
— and the Women's City Club will be issued on application. 

The various committees urge that arrangements and registra- 
tion for the various events be made at the earliest possible moment. 

An Information Bureau will be maintained at the Secretary's 
Office at Mechanics Building, throughout the entire Convention. 
If in doubt, ask there ! 



35 



AUTOMOBILE TOUR OF HISTORICAL BOSTON 

Starting at 3 P.M. on Tuesday, JuifE 13th, from the Hotel 
Lenox. Time Required to Mark Tour, About Two Hoiks. 

Stops will be made at Bunker Hill Monument and the Charles- 
town Navy Yard. Sufficient time will be allowed to inspect the 
Navy Yard and go aboard the Old Frigate " Constitution." The 
tour embraces all points of interest in the historic and business 
sections of the city. 

Following are the principal points of interest: — 

Massachusetts State Prison. 

Old State House (1713). 

State House — famous in history. 

Old Market. 

Washington Street. 

Site of Liberty Tree. 

Spot where Paul Revere crossed the Charles River and started 

on his famous " midnight ride." 
Site of Birthplace of Benjamin Franklin. 
Copps Hill. 
Site of British Fort. 

Armory of Ancient and Honorable Artillery. 
House Occupied by General Gage during British occupation 

of Boston. 
Old Charter House, where was signed the first Massachusetts 

Charter. 
Oldest public building standing in Boston. 
Charlestown (Settled 1628). 
Site of Battle of Bunker Hill. 
Spot over which British charged three times. 
Spot where General Warren fell. 
Old Corner Bookstore. 
Brimstone Corner. 

Green Dragon Inn, where met the spirits of the Revolution. 
Site of Old Hancock Tavern where was entertained the 

Dauphin of France. 
Building from which started the " Boston Tea Party." 
Building where Benjamin Franklin was baptised. 
Balcony from which Declaration of Independence was first 

read in Boston. 
Financial Center of Boston. 
Spot where ships have been built since 1629. 
Site of Home of General Joseph Warren. 
Site of Paul Revere's Goldsmith Shop. 
Crispus Attucks Monument. 
Adams House, where Denman Thompson once served as a 

bell boy. 

36 



Old Custom House with its Famous new Tower. 

St. Paul's Episcopal Cathedral. 

Boston Common. 

Famous Boston Subway. 

Longest and Busiest Street in New England. 

Old South Meeting House. 

Site of Shop of John Hancock. 

Bunker Hill (stop). 

U. S. Navy Yard (stop of 20 minutes to inspect Navy Yard 

and visit Old Frigate " Constitution"). 
Christ Church from which lanterns were hung to apprise 

Paul Revere of the approaching of the British. 
Site of Boston Massacre (1770), where was shed the first 

blood of the Revolution. 
The " East Side " of Boston. 

Identical House in which lived Paul Revere. 
The Ghetto, or New Jerusalem. 
Little Italy. 
Newspaper Row. 
City Hall. 

Church used as a riding school by the British. 
Faneuil Hall (Cradle of Liberty, 17(io). 
Tremont Temple. 
King's Chapel and Burial Ground. 
Park Street Church. 
Old Granary Burial Ground. 

Building where Jenny Lind first sang in New England. 
Site of Governor Winthrop's home. 
Masonic Temple. 

Site of home of original " Mother Goose." 
Graves of John Winthrop, Paul Revere, Samuel Adams, 

James Otis, and parents of Benjamin Franklin and many 

others famous in history. 



37 



FIFTY -MILE CIRCUIT TOUR OVER PAUL REVERE 
ROUTE TO LEXINGTON AND CONCORD 

Starting a i L.30 P.M. on Wednesday, June 11th, from the 

Hotel Lenox. Time Required to Make Torn 

About Four Hours. 

On this tour we- visit the birthplace of American liberty, and 
the homes of America's foremost authors. Besides passing through 
sonu- ol Boston's mosl beautiful suburbs, the tour covers for the most 
part the exact route mack' famous by Paul Revere and the British 
troops, April 18th and 19th, 1775. 

Numerous tablets mark the spots where were enacted some of 
the most stirring events of the American Revolution. We pass 
through the beautiful Back Bay, over the Harvard Bridge, through 
Cambridge and make our first stop at Harvard University. At 
the Agassiz Museum \ve will stop long enough to see the world- 
famous glass flowers. After leaving the museum, a brief lecture 
will be given at the Washington Elm. 

Leaving the Elm, we speed along over perfect roads through 
Cambridge and Arlington, passing many tablets by the wax, until 
we arrive in Lexington. We stop at the Battle Field, where the 
farmers outside of Boston first met the British with armed resist- 
ance and where the historic words were first uttered by the com- 
mander of the Alinute Men on Lexington Green: " Stand your 
ground, don't fire unless fired upon, but if they mean to have war 
let it begin here." Leaving the Battle Field of Lexington, we 
next stop at the Hancock-Clarke House, where guests are guided 
through this historic old mansion containing priceless relics of the 
Revolution. Leaving Lexington we pass through the old town 
of Lincoln and stop at the spot where Paul Revere was captured. 
A tew miles more through beautiful rural scenery and we arrive at 
Merriam's Corner, the first point of interest in Concord. Beside 
the elm-shaded streets through which we pass are the homes of 
the famous Poets and Writers who have made New England the 
Mecca of all the country. The grand climax of the tour is reached 
when we arrive at the Old North Bridge, where was fought on an 
April morning in 177.), the battle which inspired Emerson to write 
the famous words inscribed on the statue of the Minute Man: 

By the rude bridge that arched the flood, 
Their Mag to April's breeze unfurled, 
Here once the embattled farmers stood, 
And fired the shot heard 'round the world." 

A stop of ten minutes is made at the North Bridgeand passengers 
are taken over the Battle Field 1>\ the guide, who, at the Statue of 
the Minute Man and the graves of the British soldiers, relates the 
heroic and stirring events of the battle. Leaving the Battle Field, 
we pass by the road which leads to Sleepy Hollow Cemetery in 
which are the graves of Emerson, Hawthorne, Louisa May Alcott, 
Thoreau and others of literary note. This is some distance from 

38 



the main road and automobiles are not allowed to enter. The 
return trip is over an entirely different route, passing the site of 
Thorean's Hut by Lake Walden, Kendall Green, Waltham, to 
Boston, completing one of the most interesting fifty-mile tours in 
America. 

Following are the principal points of interest: — - 

Cambridge 

Colonial Homes. 

First Church of Cambridge. 

Memorial Hall. 

John Harvard Statue. 

Grounds and Buildings of Harvard University. 

Agassiz Museum. 

Radcliffe College. 

Old Christ Church (where Washington attended). 

Soldiers' Monument and cannon captured by Ethan Allen at 

Fort Ticonderoga. 
Site of Birthplace of Oliver Wendell Holmes. 
Old Porter Tavern. 

Arlington 

Cooper Tavern. 

Old Robbins House. 

Meeting place of Committee of Public Safety, 1775. 

Tablet on Site of Capture of British Supply Train. 

First Church of Arlington (1773). 

Soldiers' Monument. 

Jason Russell Tablet. 

" Foot of the Rocks." 

Arlington Heights. 

Lexington 

Wellington Tablet. 

Harrington House and Elm. 

Munroe Tavern. 

Emerson Hall. 

Stone Cannon. 

Massachusetts Building at Centennial Exposition, 1876. 

Cary Memorial Library. 

Site of Old Belfry. 

Lexington Green. 

Captain Parker Statue. 

Buckman Tavern. 

Pulpit Rock. 

Stone Boulder, Line of Minute Men. 

First Revolutionary Monument. 

First Normal School in America. 

Hancock- Clarke House. 

Jonathan Harrington House. 

Fourth Meeting House of the First Parish. 

39 



Lincoln 

Rally Bluff. 

Site of Capture oi Paul Revbre (Tablet). 

I ionic of Captain Smith. 

Concord 

Merriam's Corner. 

Grape Vine Cottage (House of originator of Concord Grape 
and parent vine). 

Hawthorne's Wayside. 

Orchard House (Home of Louisa May Alcott). 

Home of Ralph Waldo Emerson. 

First Parish Meeting House (Meeting Place of First Provin- 
cial Congress). 

Historic Wright Tavern, 1747. 

Monument Square, Concord Elm and Burial Hill. 

House with British Bullet Holes. 

Old Manse. 

Battle Ground, Graves of British Soldiers. 

Old North Bridge. 

Mixute Man Statue. 

South Lincoln 

Lake Walden, where Thoreau had his hut. 

Middlesex Hunt Club. 

Home of Alexander H. Higginson. 

Hastings 

Organ Factory, Kendall Green and Weston. 
Aristocratic Settlements. 

Waltham and Water town 

W'altham, the Watch City. Home of General Banks. United 
States Arsenal. Views of Allston, Brighton, Cambridge 
and Boston. Soldiers Eield and Harvard Stadium. 



40 



BOSTON 
A GUIDE BOOK 



By EDWIN M. BACON 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS 




The 



John Hancock House! jTS^p/ vjyj - «86j 



GINN AND COMPANY 

BOSTON • NEW YORK • CHICAGO • LONDON 
ATLANTA • DALLAS • COLUMBUS • SAN FRANCISCO 



Copyright, 1903 
By Ginn & Company 



GINN-y-CoMPANY 
ChtTttbrnanimPrcs 




BOSTdNTNeX'-YoRICOCACO 

UDNDCfNISANFRANClSCo 

ATLANTA! DALLAS 

COLUMBUS 



ALL RIGHTS RESERYED 
216.4 



CONTENTS 



Introductory 

The Way about Town . . . 
Principal Hotels of Boston 
Theaters in Boston . . . . 
Convenient Churches in Boston 



I. Modern Boston . . 
Historical Sketch . . 
Boston Proper . . . 

i. The Central District 
The North End . 
The Charlestown District 
The West End . . 
The Back Bay . . . 
The South End . . 
The Outlying Districts 
East Boston . . . 
South Boston . . . 
Roxbury District . 
West Roxbury Distric 
Dorchester District 
Brighton District . 

II. The Metropolitan Region 
Cambridge and Harvard 

Brookline 

The Newtons and Weston 
Newton and Wellesley 
Natick and Needham . 
The Southern Newtons 
Waltham ..... 
Watertown .... 
Milton and the Blue Hills 

Quincy 

Dedham 

Winthrop and Revere 



PAGE 
V 
V 

viii 
ix 
ix 

i 
i 

2 



4 
54 
65 
68 

74 
92 

94 

94 

95 

95 
96 

97 
97 



109 
116 
119 
123 
124 
126 
128 
130 
J 34 
J 37 
J 39 



PAGE 

Chelsea 142 

Somerville, Medford, and 

Maiden 143 

Winchester 145 

III. Public Parks 146 
Boston City System . . . 146 
Metropolitan System . . . 148 

IV. Day Trips from Boston 152 
Lexington and Concord . . 152 
The North Shore . . . . 159 

Lynn 159 

Nahant 159 

Saugus 159 

Marblehead 160 

Salem 160 

Salem Itinerary . . . 161 

Peabody 161 

Danvers 161 

Beverly 161 

Gloucester 161 

Rockport 161 

The South Shore .... 167 

Hingham 167 

Cohasset 167 

Scituate 167 

Marshfield ....<.. 168 

Duxbury 168 

Kingston 168 

Plymouth 168 

V. Excursions and Tours . 171 

VI. Important Points of 

Interest 175 

Index i/7 



111 



PUBLISHERS' NOTE 



The chief merit of any guide is that it brings the history of its subject 
to the present moment. Such has been the intent in the preparation 
of this little book. It is something more than a guide book to Boston : 
it is an historical itinerary, a progress from past to present. Its scope 
embraces, besides the municipality of Boston proper, the various com- 
munities which are comprehended in the term "Greater Boston"; his- 
torical places and literary shrines beyond these limits, as Salem, 
Plymouth, and Concord ; the North Shore and the South Shore of 
Massachusetts Bay. Care has been taken to provide the visitor with 
every possible aid to the convenient and comfortable exploration of 
the territory treated. Diagrams and trip maps are scattered through 
the pages ; the typographical arrangement, with the use of varied types 
to emphasize places, points, and objects, is designed to make the mate- 
rial available for quick reference ; the text is profusely illustrated ; and 
at the back of the book are a series of plate maps, printed in colors to 
render them the more distinct in detail. In the mechanical execution 
the publishers have endeavored to present a tasteful book, in shape and 
appearance convenient and attractive. It is intended in all respects to 
be the standard Boston Guide Book. 

Among the distinctive and superior features of this guide are the 
following : 

i. The material is original and has been obtained by reference to 
original sources and documents. For this reason this guide is espe- 
cially authoritative and trustworthy. 

2. The eight pages of color maps at the back of the book, and the 
numerous diagram maps inserted in the text, provide unusually adequate 
map material, at once convenient and exhaustive. Those who are 
accustomed to spread out in the wind the large folder maps commonly 
to be found in guide books of this character will doubtless appreciate 
the superiority of these small sectional maps and diagrams. 

3. In other respects the guide is made most convenient. A helpful 
table of contents, the logical arrangement of the material, the running 
titles, and above all a complete alphabetical index, attain this end to an 
admirable degree. Strangers will find the section entitled " The Way 
About Town " (pp. v to viii) particularly valuable. 

iv 



INTRODUCTORY 



THE WAY ABOUT TOWN 

The stranger visiting Boston for the first time will 
find the city's reputation of being exceedingly intricate 
and tortuous to be deserved. But he may quickly 
"orient" himself and get a general idea of the direc- 
tions of the streets and of the ways of reaching desired 
points, if he will grasp at the outset three important 
facts, as follows : 

I. The well-worn term "The Hub" applies to down- 
town Boston in no mere fanciful sense. Roughly, the 
streets of this confusing district form a sort of wheel. The hub of the wheel, 
however, is not one fixed point, for the streets radiate from several squares 
lying between the State House on Beacon Hill and the Old State House on 
State Street. Plates II and III at the back of the book will show at a glance 
that the figure of the wheel applies with sufficient exactness to warrant its use. 
In fact the stranger will save himself many steps and much time by ascertaining 
at once the names and directions of a few main thoroughfares, among them 
State Street, Milk Street, Washington Street, Tremont Street, Beacon Street, 
Summer Street, Hanover Street, and Atlantic Avenue. 





II. The Back Bay District is arranged chiefly in the form of a rectangle, 

its eastern border united to the Central District described above at the Public 
Garden. The accompanying diagram indicates its general form, and points out 

v 



vi THE WAV ABOUT TOWN 

the principal connections with down-town Boston. For details of the Back Bay 
District, see Plate I at the back of the book. 

III. There are in Boston several important points of arrival or departure 
in which all routes center. The visitor cannot go far astray if he makes him- 
self familiar with these few landmarks. The most essential are the following : 

Copley Square. Through this square, Boylston Street, running nearly east 
and west, is a thoroughfare for trolley cars : east-bound, passing into the Subway. 
to connections (at Park Street station) with surface cars running to the North 
Station and connecting with the Elevated system (which passes through the 
Washington Street Tunnel) for Charlestown and all the northern suburbs, as 
well as (by Atlantic Avenue circuit) with the various ferries, steamer wharves 
(for harbor and coastwise points), and the South Station (the latter more directly 
reached by transfer in the Subway at the Boylston Street station) ; also east-bound 
cars which, avoiding the Subway, run to the West End and to the North Station ; 
and west-bound , to Brookline, Brighton, Newton, Cambridge, Somerville (Spring 
Hill), Watertown, and Waltham. Huntington Avenue, diverging to the south- 
west from Boylston Street at this square, is the artery for cars to Dorchester, 
Jamaica Plain, Forest Hills, Milton, connecting with the Elevated system south, 
as well as an alternative route for other suburbs reached from Boylston Street. 
Trinity Place, to the south of the square, leads direct to the New York Central 
Trinity Place station (one block), where all outgoing trains stop ; and at Hunting- 
ton Avenue and Irvington Street (one block southwest of the square) is the Hunt- 
ington Avenue station of the same line, where all inward-bound trains stop. 
Dartmouth Street leads to the Back Bay station of the New York. New Haven 
& Hartford Railroad (one block south of the square), the stopping place for all 
trains in both directions. 

In or about Copley Square are grouped many important buildings, institutions, 
churches, and hotels. 

The Intersection of Washington, Summer, and Winter streets, in the 
middle of the down-town business quarter. Washington Street is not only the 
great artery of retail traffic but it is the main highway of travel north and south 
through the older part of the city. Beneath it is the Washington Street Tunnel 
for the Elevated system. Winter Street is but one block long and connects with 
Tremont Street at the Park Street station of the Subway ; Summer Street is 
practically a continuation of it eastward to the South Station and the water. 

On Washington Street north-bound surface cars may be taken for Charlestown, 
East Boston and Chelsea Ferries, East Cambridge, the North Station, and the 
West End. South-bound cars for South Boston, Dorchester, Milton, Neponset, 
and various sections of the Roxbury and West Roxbury districts may be taken 
either at the corner or just below on Summer Street. (The railway company's 
starter on the corner will give all information needed.) 

From this center it is but two blocks on Washington Street, north, to the Old 
South Meetinghouse ; two blocks farther to the Old State House, at the head of 
State Street. It is in proximity to the theater quarter and is near a nest of hotels. 

Park Street, also in the down-town business quarter. Here are the cen- 
tral stations of the Subway at the head of the Common. At the head of the 
short street (a single block in length) is the State House; at its foot is the 



THE WAY ABOUT TOWN 



vu 



thoroughfare of Tremont Street, running south and north, from which cross 
streets at irregular intervals lead easterly to various parts of the general business 
districts. 

Scollay Square, at the junction of Tremont and Court streets, Cornhill, 
and Tremont Row. A central point from which the northern parts of the city 
are reached. Here cars for the North Station and the northern suburbs are 
taken in the Subway. Surface cars cross the northern end of the square and 
pass down Hanover Street, some bound for the North Station, others for ferries. 
State Street is a block east of this square. Also cars turn from it into Cornhill. 

The North Station, Causeway Street. This is occupied by the several 
divisions of the Boston & Maine Railroad system, whence trains are taken for 
all points north, east, and west. 

The South Station, Dewey 
Square. Occupied by the New 
York, New Haven & Hartford 
and the New York Central rail- 
roads, whence trains are taken 
for the south and west. 

General Information. Time 
tables and details of routes 
of the many and various 
trolley lines in the city, and 
connections with other lines, 
are issued by the Boston 
Elevated Railway Company. 
The several railroad com- 
panies also furnish elaborate 
information in illustrated 
folders and other forms as 
to points of interest in New 
England along their lines reached from Boston. These can be obtained 
by the visitor at the down-town railroad offices. At the railroad stations 
are Information Bureaus, at which the stranger should freely apply for 
any directions desired. When about the city or on street cars similar 
application may be made with confidence to policemen and conductors. 
The politeness of these officers is proverbial. 




South Station 



Vlll HOTELS 



PRINCIPAL HOTELS OF BOSTON i 

Adams HOUSE, 553 Washington, near Boylston Street, Eu. plan. Rooms, 

$1.50 to $4 ; -with bath, $2.50 to $5. 

American House, Hanover, near Elm Street, Eu. Rooms, $1.50. For two 
persons in one room, $2. 

BELLEVUE, Beacon, near Somerset Street, Eu. Rooms, $1.50 upward ; with bath, 
$3 upward. 

Boston Tavern, Washington, near Bromfield Street. Eu. Rooms, $1 upward. 

Brewster, Boylston, near Washington Street, Eu. Rooms, $2 upward ; single, 
with bath, $2.50 upward ; double, with bath, $3-5° upward. 

Brunswick, Boylston and Clarendon streets, Am. and Eu. Am., $4 upward; 
Eu., rooms, $1.50 upward. 

Castle Square, Tremont and Chandler streets, Eu. Rooms, f>i upward. 

Clark's, Washington, near Boylston Street, Eu. Rooms, $1 upward. 

Commonwealth, Bowdoin Street, Eu. Rooms, S J upward. 

Copley Square, Huntington Avenue and Exeter Street, Back Bay, Eu. Rooms, 
Si upward. 

Copley-Plaza, Copley Square, Back Bay, Eu. Rooms, $2. 50 upward. 

Crawford House, Court and Brattle streets, Eu. Rooms, Ji. For two persons 
in one room, S2. 

Essex, Dewey Square, opposite South Station, Eu. Rooms, $1.50 upward. 

Georgian, Park Square, Eu. Rooms, Si upward. 

Langham, Washington and Worcester streets, Am. and Eu. Am., $2 upward; 
Eu., rooms, Si upward. 

Lenox, Boylston and Exeter streets, Back Bay, Eu. Rooms, $1.50 upward. 

Nottingham, Huntington Avenue and Blagden Street, Back Bay, Eu. Rooms, 
$1 upward. 

Oxford, Huntington Avenue, opposite Exeter Street, Back Bay, Am. and Eu. 
Am., $2.50 upward; Eu., rooms, $1 upward. 

Parker House, School and Tremont streets, Eu. Rooms, $1.50 upward. 

Plaza, Columbus Avenue and Holyoke Street, Eu. Rooms, $1. For two per- 
sons in one room, $1.50. 

Puritan, 390 Commonwealth Avenue, Back Bay, Am. and Eu. Am., $4 up- 
ward; Eu., rooms, Si. 50 upward. 

Quincy House, Brattle Street and Brattle Square, Am. and Eu. Am., $3 up- 
ward; Eu., rooms, $1 upward. 

Revere House, Bowdoin Square, Eu. Rooms, Si upward. 

SOMERSET, Commonwealth Avenue and Charlesgate East, Back Bay, Eu. 
Rooms, S2.50 upward. 

Thorndike, Boylston and Church streets, Eu. Rooms, Si upward. 

Touraine, Boylston and Tremont streets, Eu. Rooms, $^ to S6 single ; S4 to 
$8 double. 

United States Hotel, Beach, Lincoln, and Kingston streets. Am. and Eu. 
Am., S2.50 upward; Eu., rooms, Si. 

VendOME, 270 Commonwealth Avenue, corner of Dartmouth Street, Back 
Bay, Am., S; upward. 

Victoria, Newbury and Dartmouth streets, Back Bay, Eu. Rooms. S2 upward. 

WESTMINSTER, Trinity Place, just out of Copley Square, Eu. Rooms, &1.50 
upward. 

Young's Hotel, Court Street and Court Square, Eu. Rooms, Si. 50 upward. 

1 Eu., European plan ; Am., American plan. 



CONVENIENT CHURCHES IX 

THEATERS IN BOSTON 

Boston Opera House, Huntington Avenue. 

Boston Theater, Washington, near West Street. 

Castle Square, Tremont and Chandler streets. 

Colonial, Boylston, near Tremont Street. 

Cort, Park Square. 

Gordon's Olympia, Washington, near Boylston Street. 

Hollis Street, Hollis, between Washington and Tremont streets. 

Keith's, Washington, near West Street ; entrance also on Tremont street. 

Majestic, Tremont, near Boylston Street. 

National, Tremont, junction with Montgomery Street. 

Orpheum, Washington Street and Hamilton Place 

Park, Washington, near Boylston Street. 

Plymouth, Eliot, near Tremont Street. 

Shu bert, Tremont, nearly opposite Hollis Street. 

Toy, Lime Street. 

Tremont, Tremont, near Mason Street. 

Wilbur, Tremont, corner of Dix Place. 

There are also the Casino, Columbia, Gaiety, Grand Opera House, and 
Howard Athenaeum, devoted to burlesque; Beacon, Bijou Dream, Bow- 
doin Square, Comique, Globe, Gordon and Lord's Scollay Square 
Olympia, Hub, Huntington Avenue, Old South, Palace, Pastime, 
Premier, St. James, Scenic Temple, Star, Unique, Washington, giving 
vaudeville and moving-picture shows. 

CONVENIENT CHURCHES 

Arlington Street Church, Congregational Unitarian, Arlington, corner of 
Boylston Street, Back Bay. 

Barnard Memorial, Congregational Unitarian, 10 Warrenton Street, near 
Washington. 

Beacon Universalist Church, Universalist, Beacon Street, across the Brook- 
line line, at Coolidge Corner. 

Boston Society of the New Jerusalem Church, New Church (Sweden- 
borgian), 136 Bowdoin, near Beacon Street, West End. 

Bulfinch Place Church, Congregational Unitarian, Bulfinch Place, West End. 

Cathedral of the Holy Cross, Roman Catholic, Washington, corner of 
Maiden Street, South End. 

Central Church, Congregational Trinitarian, Berkeley, corner of Newbury 
Street, Back Bay. 

Christ Church, Protestant Episcopal, Salem Street, North End. 

Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, Roman Catholic, 1545 Tre- 
mont Street, Roxbury District. 

Church of St. John the Evangelist, Protestant Episcopal, Bowdoin Street. 

Church of the Advent, Protestant Episcopal, 2° Brimmer Street, West End. 

Church of the Disciples, Congregational Unitarian, Jersey and Peterboro 
streets, Back Bay Fens. 

Church of the Holy Trinity (German), Roman Catholic, 140 Shawmut 
Avenue, South End. 

Church of the Immaculate Conception, Roman Catholic, Harrison Ave- 
nue, corner of East Concord Street, South End. 

Church of the Messiah, Protestant Episcopal, St. Stephen, corner of 
Gainsborough Street, Back Bay. 

Clarendon Street Church, Baptist, Clarendon, corner of Montgomery 
Street, South End. 

Emmanuel Church, Protestant Episcopal, 15 Newbury Street, Back Bay. 



CONVENIENT CHURCHES 



First Baptist Church, Clarendon Street, corner of Commonwealth Avenue, 

Back Bay. 
First Church, Methodist Episcopal, Temple Street, West End. 
First Church in Boston, Congregational Unitarian, Marlborough, corner 

of Berkeley Street, Back Bay. 
First Church of Christ, Scientist, Falmouth, Norway, and St. Paul streets, 

Back Bay. 
First Congregational Society, Unitarian, Centre Street, Jamaica Plain. 
First Parish in Dorchester, Congregational Unitarian, Meetinghouse Hill, 

Dorchester District. 
First Presbyterian Church, Berkeley Street, corner of Columbus Avenue, 

South End. 
First Religious Society, Congregational Unitarian, Eliot Square, Rox- 

bury District. 
First Spiritual Temple, Spiritualist, Newbury, corner of Exeter Street, 

Back Bay. 
Friends' Meeting House, 210 Townsend Street, Roxbury District. 
King's Chapel, Congregational Unitarian, Tremont, corner of School Street. 
Ml Vernon Church, Congregational Trinitarian, Beacon, corner of Massa- 
chusetts Avenue, Back Bay. 
Notre Dame des Victoires (French), Roman Catholic, 25 Isabella Street, 

South End. 
Ohabei Sholom, Jewish, 11 Union Park Street, South End. 
Old South Church, Congregational Trinitarian, Dartmouth, corner of Boyl- 

ston Street, Back Bay. 
Park Street Church, Congregational Trinitarian, Tremont, corner of Park 

Street. 
Parker Memorial, Congregational Unitarian, n Appleton Street, South End. 
People's Temple, Methodist Episcopal, Columbus Avenue, corner of Berkeley 

Street, South End. 
Ruggles Street Baptist Church, 163 Ruggles Street, Roxbury District. 
St. Leonard's of Port Morris (Italian), Roman Catholic, Prince Street, 

North End. 
St. Paul's Cathedral, Protestant Episcopal, 136 Tremont Street. 
St. Stephen's Church, Protestant Episcopal, Florence Street, South End. 
Second Church, Congregational Unitarian, Sleeper Hall, 688 Boylston Street, 

Back Bay. 
Second Universalist Church, Columbus Avenue, corner of Clarendon 

Street, South End. 
Shawmut Church, Congregational Trinitarian, Tremont, corner of West 

Brookline Street, South End. 
South Congregational Church, Congregational Unitarian, Newbury, cor- 
ner of Exeter Street, Back Bay. 
Tabernacle Baptist Church, Bowdoin Square, West End. 
Temple Israel, Jewish, Commonwealth Avenue, corner of Blandford Street, 

Back Bay. 
Tremont Street Methodist Episcopal Church, Tremont, corner of 

West Concord Street, South End. 
Tremont Temple Church, Baptist, 82 Tremont Street. 
Trinity Church, Protestant Episcopal, Copley Square. Back Bay. 
Union Church, Congregational Trinitarian. 4S5 Columbus Avenue, South End. 
Warren Avenue Church, Baptist, Warren Avenue, corner of West Canton 

Street, South End. 



BOSTON: A GUIDE BOOK 



I. MODERN BOSTON 




HISTORICAL SKETCH 

HE town of Boston was founded in 1630 by English 
colonists sent out by the " Governor and Company of 
the Massachusetts Bay in New England," under the 
lead of John Winthrop, the second governor of the Bay 
Colony, who arrived at Salem in June of that year 
with the charter of 1629. It originated in an order 
passed by the Court of Assistants sitting in the " Gov- 
ernor's House " in Charlestown, on the opposite side of 
the Charles River, first selected as their place of settle- 
ment. This order was adopted September 17 (7 O. S.), 
and established three towns at once by the simple 
dictum, "that Trimountane shalbe called Boston ; Mat- 
t )/I^O tapan, Dorchester ; & y e towne vpon Charles Ryver, Waterton." " Tri- 
A(§\ mountane " consisted of a peninsula with three hills, the highest (the 
(j*(%\ present Beacon Hill), as seen from Charlestown, presenting three distinct 
BW- peaks. Hence this name, given it by the colonists from Endicott's com- 
f pany at Salem, who had preceded the Winthrop colonists in the Charles- 
<J town settlement. The Indian name was " Shawmutt," or " Shaumut," 
which signified, according to some authorities, " Living Waters," but according 
to others, " Where there is going by boat," or " Near the neck." The name of 
Boston was selected in recognition of the chief men of the company, who had 
come from Boston in England, and particularly Isaac Johnson, " the greatest 
furtherer of the Colony," who died at Charlestown on the day of the naming. 
The peninsula was chosen for the chief settlement primarily because of its 
springs, the colonists at Charlestown suffering disastrously from the use of brack- 
ish water. The Rev. William Blaxton, the pioneer white settler on the penin- 
sula (coming about 1625), then living alone in his cottage on the highest hill 
slope, " came and acquainted the governor of an excellent spring there, withal 
inviting him and soliciting him thither." 

The three-hilled peninsula originally contained only about 783 acres, cut 
into by deep coves, estuaries, inlets, and creeks. It faced the harbor, at the west 
end of Massachusetts Bay, into which empty the Charles and Mystic rivers. It 
was pear-shaped, a little more than a mile wide at its broadest, and less than 
three miles long, the stem, or neck, connecting it with the mainland (at what 
became Roxbury) a mile in length, and so low and narrow that parts were not 

L 



BOSTON PROPER 



H.ARBOR 



infrequently overflowed by the tides. By the reclamation of the broad marshes 
and flats from time to time, and the filling of the great coves, the original area 
of 783 acres has been expanded to 1S01 acres; and where it was the narrowest 
it is now the widest. Additional territory has been acquired by the development 
of East Boston and South Boston, and by the annexation of adjoining cities 
and towns. Thus the area of the city has become more than thirty times as 
large as that of the peninsula on which the town was built. Its bounds now 

embrace 30,295 acres, or 47. 34 square 
miles. Its extreme length, from north 
to south, is thirteen miles, and its ex- 
treme breadth, from east to west, nine 
miles. While the Colonial town was 
confined to the little peninsula, its 
jurisdiction at first extended over a 
large territory, which embraced the 
present cities and towns of Chelsea 
and Revere on the north, and Brook- 
line, Quincy, Braintree, and Ran- 
dolph on the west and south. So 
there was quite a respectable "Greater 
Boston" in those old first days. The 
metropolitan proportions continued 
till 1 640, and were not entirely reduced 
to the limits of the peninsula and 
certain harbor islands till 1739. 

East Boston is comprised in two 
harbor islands: Noddle's Island, 
which was "layd to Boston" in 1637, 
and Breed's (earlier Hog) Island, 




annexed in 16' 



South Boston was 



Old and New Boston 



formerly Dorchester Neck, a part of 
the town of Dorchester, annexed in 
1804. The city of Roxbury (named as a town October 8, 1630) was annexed 
in 1868; the town of Dorchester (named in 1630 in the order naming Boston), 
in 1870; the city of Charlestown (founded as a town July 4, 1629), the town of 
Brighton (incorporated 1807), and the town of West Roxbury (incorporated 185 1), 
by one act, in 1874; an< ^ tne town of Hyde Park (incorporated 1868), in 191 2. 
These annexed municipalities retain their names with the term " District " added 
to each. Boston remained under town government, with a board of selectmen, 
till 1822. It was incorporated a city, February 23 of that year, after several 
ineffectual attempts to change the system. 



BOSTON PROPER 

The term "Boston Proper" is customarily used to designate the 
original city exclusive of the annexed parts ; but for the purposes 
of this Guide we comprehend in the term the entire municipality, as 



SECTIONS OF THE CITY 3 

distinguished from the allied cities and towns, closely identified with it 
in business and social relations, but yet independent political corpora- 
tions. Together with the municipality these allied cities and towns 
constitute what is colloquially known as Greater Boston. This metro- 
politan community is officially recognized at present only in two state 
departments : the Metropolitan Parks and the consolidated Metropoli- 
tan Water and Sewerage Departments ; and in part in the Boston Postal 
District established by the Post Office Department. Of these several 
districts the Metropolitan Parks District is the largest, comprising Bos- 
ton and thirty-eight cities and towns within a radius of fifteen miles 
from the City Hall, having a combined population approximating 1,424,- 
000. The Metropolitan Water District includes seventeen cities and 
towns; the Metropolitan Sewerage District, twenty-four; and the Bos- 
ton Postal District, ten. The " Boston Basin," however, is regarded as 
constituting the true bounds of " Greater Boston." This includes a ter- 
ritory of some fifteen miles in width, lying between the bay on the east, 
the Blue Hills on the south, and the ridges of the Wellington Hills 
sweeping from Waltham on the west around toward Cape Ann on the 
north. It embraces thirty-six cities and towns. The population of 
Boston alone approximates 700,000. 

The present city is divided by custom long established into several 
distinct sections. These are : 

The Central District, or General Business Quarter 

The North End 

The West End 

The South End 

The Back Bay Quarter 

The Brighton District, on the west side 

The Roxbury District, on the south 

The West Roxbury District, on the southwest 

The Dorchester District, on the southeast 

The Charlestown District, on the north 

The Hyde Park District, on the south 

East Boston on its two islands, on the northeast 

South Boston projecting into the harbor, on the east 

The Business Quarters now occupy not only the Central District, but 
extend over most of the North End, parts of the West End and of 
the South End, and penetrate even the Back Bay Quarter, laid out in 
comparatively 'modern times (1860-1886), where the bay had been, as 
the fairest residential quarter of the city and the place for its finest 
architectural monuments. 



BOSTON PROPER 



i. The Central District 




frrrr~ r "' 
Inxch 
; taxcil 

4sw 





The Central District (see Plates II and III) 
is of first interest to the visitor, for here are 
most of the older historic landmarks. This 
small quarter of the present city, together with 
the North End, embraces that part of the 
original peninsula to which the historic town — 
Colonial, Provincial, and Revolutionary Boston 
— was practically confined. The town 
of 1630 was begun along the irregular 
water front, the principal houses being 
placed round about the upper part of 
what is now State Street, modern Bos- 
ton's financial center, and on or near 
the neighboring Dock Square, back of 
the present Faneuil Hall, where was the 
first Town Dock, occupying nearly all of 
the present North Market Street, in the 
" Great Cove." The square originally 
at the head of State Street (first Market, 
then King Street), in the middle of which 
now stands the Old State House, was the first center of town life. At 
about this point, accordingly, our explorations naturally begin. 

State-Street square and the Old State House. Our starting place is 
the square at the head of State St., which the Old State House faces. 
This itself is one of the most notable historic spots in Boston. For 
the first quarter-century of Colony life the entire square, including the 
space occupied by the Old State House, was the public marketstead. 
Thursday was market day, — the day also of the " Thursday Lecture " 
by the ministers. Early (1648) semiannual fairs here, in June and 
October, were instituted, each holding a market for two or three days. 
Here were first inflicted the drastic punishments of offenders against 
the rigorous laws, and here unorthodox literature was burned. 

The Stocks, the Whipping Post, and the Pillory were earliest placed 
here. When the town was a half-century old a Cage, for the confine- 
ment and exposure of violators of the rigid Sunday laws, was added tG 
these penal instruments. In the Revolutionary period the Stocks stood 
near the northeast corner of the Old State House, with the Whipping 
Post hard by ; while the Pillory when used was set in the middle of the 
square between the present Congress Street (first Leverett's Lane) on 
the south side and Exchange Street (first Shrimpton's Lane, later Royal 



STATE STREET SQUARE 5 

Exchange Lane) on the north. The Whipping Post lingered here till 
the opening of the nineteenth century. 

This square continued to be the gathering place of the populace from 
the Colonial through the Province period on occasion of momentous 
events. It was the rendezvous of the people in the " bloodless revolu- 
tion " of April, 1689, when the government of Andros was overthrown. 
In the Stamp Act excitement of 1765 a stamp fixed upon a pole was 
solemnly brought here by a representative of the "Sons of Liberty" 
and fastened into the town Stocks, after which it was publicly burned 
by the "executioner." On the evening of March 5, 1770, the so-called 
Boston Massacre, the fatal collision between the populace and the sol- 
diery, occurred here, the site being indicated by a ring in the street 
paving opposite the Exchange Street corner, northwest. 

On the south side of the original marketstead, by the present Devon- 
shire Street (first Pudding Lane), where now is the modern Brazer's 
Building (27 State Street), was the first meetinghouse, a rude structure 
of mud walls and thatched roof. This also served through its existence 
of eight years for Colonial purposes, as the carved inscription above the 
entrance of Brazer's Building relates : 

Site of the First Meetinghouse in Boston, built a.d. 1632. 
Preachers: John Wilson, John Eliot, John Cotton. 
Used before 1640 for town meetings and for 
sessions of the General Court of the Colony. 

At the upper end of this side of the marketstead, extending to Wash- 
ington Street (first The High Street), were the house and garden lot of 
Captain Robert Keayne, charter member and first commander of the first 
"Military Company of the Massachusetts" (founded 1637, chartered 
163S), from which developed the still flourishing "Ancient and Honor- 
able Artillery Company," the oldest military organization in the country. 
A century later, on the Washington Street corner, was Daniel Henchman's 
bookshop, in which Henry Knox, afterward the Revolutionary general 
and Washington's friend, learned his trade and ultimately succeeded to 
the business. When the British regulars were quartered on the town, 
in 1 768-1 770, the Main Guardhouse was on this side, directly opposite 
the south door of the Old State House, with the two fieldpieces pointed 
toward this entrance. 

On the west side of the marketstead, — the present Washington 
Street, — nearly opposite Captain Keayne's lot, was the second meet- 
inghouse, built in 1640, the site now occupied by the Rogers Building 
(209 Washington Street). This was used for all civic purposes, as well 
as religious, through eighteen years. 



CENTRAL DISTRICT 



It stood till 1 71 1, when it was destroyed in the "Great Fire" (the eighth 
"(neat Fire" in the young town) of October that year, with one hundred other 
buildings in the neighborhood. Its successor, on the same spot, was the " Brick 
Meetinghouse" which remained for almost a century (see p. 79). 

North of the second meetinghouse site, where is now the Sears 
Building (199 Washington Street), was the house of John Leverett, after- 
ward Governor Leverett (1673). ® n tne opposite corner, now covered 
by the Ames Building (Washington and Court streets), was the home- 
stead of Henry Dunster, first president of Harvard College. 

On the north side of the marketstead, near the east corner of the 
present Devonshire Street, was the glebe of the first minister of the 
first church, the Rev. John Wilson, with his house, barn, and two gar- 
dens. His name was perpetuated in 
Wi I 'son 's Lane, which was cut through 
his garden plot in 1640, and which in 
turn was absorbed in the widened 
Devonshire Street. 

Looking again across to the south 
side, we see the site of Governor Win- 
throp's first house, covered by the ex- 
pansive Exchange Building (53 State 
Street). It stood on or close to the 
ground occupied by the entrance hall 
of the building. 

This was the governor's town house for 
thirteen years from the settlement. Thence 
he removed to his last Boston home, the 
mansion which stood next to the Old South 
Meetinghouse. The first General Court — the incipient Legislature — ever held 
in America, October 19, 1630, may have sat in the governor's first house, the 
frame of which was brought here from Cambridge, where the governor first 
proposed building. 

At the corner of Kilby Street (first Mackerel Lane), where the 
Exchange Building ends, stood the Bunch-of-Grapes Tavern of Provin- 
cial times, with its sign of a gilded carved cluster of grapes, the pop- 
ular resort of the High Whigs in the prerevolutionary period. It 
dated from 171 1, and was preceded by a Colonial "ordinary," as tav- 
erns were then called, of 1640 date. In the street before the Bunch- 
of-Grapes' doors, the lion and unicorn, with other emblems of royalty 
and signs of Tories that had been torn from their places during the cele- 
bration of the news of the Declaration of Independence in July, 1776, 
were burned in a great bonfire. 




Doorway, Exchange Building 



STATE STREET SQUARE 



7 



The Bunch-of-Grapes was a famous tavern of its time. In 1750 Captain 
Francis Goelet, from England, on a commercial visit to the town, recorded in 
his diary that it was " noted for the best punch house in Boston, resorted to by 
most of the gent n merch ts and masters vessels." After the British evacuation, 
when Washington spent ten days in Boston, he and his officers were entertained 
here at an "elegant dinner" as part of the official ceremonies of the occasion. 
The tavern was especially distinguished as the place where in March, 1786, the 
group of Continental army officers, 
under the inspiration of General Rufus 
Putnam of Rutland (cousin of General 
Israel Putnam), organized the Ohio 
Company which settled Ohio, begin- 
ning at Marietta. 

State Street, when King Street, 
practically ended at Kilby Street on 
the south side and Merchants Row on 
the north, till the reclamation of the 
flats beyond, high-water mark being 
originally at these points. " Mackerel 
Lane " was a narrow passage by the 
shore till after the " Great Fire of 1 760," 
which destroyed much property in the 
vicinity. Then it was widened and 
named Kilby Street in recognition of 
the generous aid which the sufferers 
by the fire had received from Chris- 
topher Kilby, a wealthy Boston mer- 
chant, long resident in London as the 
agent for the town and colony, but 
at that time living in New York. 

Nearly opposite the Bunch-of- Old State House 

Grapes, at about the present No. 

66, stood the British Coffee House, where the British officers principally 
resorted. It was here in 1769 that James Otis was assaulted by John 
Robinson, one of the royal commissioners of customs, upon whom the 
fiery orator had passed some severe strictures, and thus through a deep 
cut on his head this brilliant intellect was shattered. 

At the east corner of Exchange Street was the Royal Customhouse, 
where the attack upon its sentinel by the little mob of men and boys, 
with a fusillade of street snow and ice, and taunting shouts, led to the 
Massacre of 1770. The opposite, or west, corner was occupied by the 
Royal Exchange Tavern, dating from the early eighteenth century, another 
resort of the British officers stationed in town. It was here in 1727 that 
occurred the altercation which resulted in the First Duel fought in 
Boston (on the Common), when Benjamin Woodbridge was killed by 




8 



CENTRAL DISTRICT 



Henry Phillips, both young men well connected with the " gentry " of 
the town, the latter related by marriage to Peter Faneuil, the giver 
of Faneuil Hall. Woodbridge's grave is in the Granary Burying Ground, 
and can be seen close by the sidewalk fence. 

It was this grave which inspired those tender passages in the " Autocrat of 
the Breakfast Table" describing " My First Walk with the Schoolmistress." 

The Old State House dates from 1748. Its outer walls, however, are 
older, being those of its predecessor, the second Town and Province 
House, built in 1712-1713. That house was destroyed by fire, all but 
these walls, in 1747, sharing very nearly the fate of its predecessor, the 
first Town House and colonial building, which went down in the "Great 
Fire " of 171 1 with the second meetinghouse and neighboring buildings 
and dwellings. It occupies the identical site in the middle of the market- 
stead chosen for the first Town House in 1657. It has served as Town 

House, Court House, 
Province Court House, 
State House, and City 
Hall. As the Province 
Court House, identified 
with the succession of 
prerevolutionary 
events in Boston, it has 
a special distinction 
among the historical 
buildings of the coun- 
try. After its abandon- 
ment for civic uses it 
suffered many vicissi- 
tudes and indignities, being ruthlessly refashioned, made over, and 
patched for business purposes, that the city which owns it might wrest 
the largest possible rentals from it; and in the year 1881 its removal 
was seriously threatened. Then, through the well-directed efforts of a 
number of worthy citizens, its preservation was secured, and in 1882 the 
historic structure was restored to much the appearance which it bore in 
Provincial days. Further restorations were made in 1 90S- 1909. 

In both exterior and interior the original architecture is in large part 
reproduced. The balcony of the second story has the window of twisted 
crown glass, out of which have looked all the later royal governors of 
the Province and the early governors of the Commonwealth. The win- 
dows of the upper stories are modeled upon the small-paned windows 
of Colonial days. Within, the main halls have the same floor and 




Council Chamber, Old State House 



OLD STATE HOUSE 



ceilings, and on three sides the same walls that they had in 1748. The 
eastern room on the second floor, with its outlook down State Street, 
was the Council Chamber, where the royal governors and the council 
sat. The western room was the Court Chamber. Between the two 
was the Hall of the Representatives. The King's arms, which were in 
the Council Chamber before the Revolution, were removed by Loyalists 
and sent to St. John, New Brunswick, where they now decorate a church. 
The carved and gilded arms of the Colony (handiwork of a Boston arti- 
san, Moses Deshon), displayed above 
the door of the Representatives Hall 
after 1750, disappeared with the Revo- 
lution. The Wooden Codfish, " emblem 
of the staple of commodities of the 
Colony and the Province," which 
hung from the ceiling of this chamber 
through much of the Province period, 
is reproduced in the more artistic 
figure (embellished by Walter M. 
Brackett, the master painter of fish 
and game) that now hangs in the 
Representatives Hall of the present 
State House (see p. 43). 

The restored rooms above the base- 
ment are open for public exhibition, 
with the rare collection of antiquities 
relating to the early history of the 
Colony and Province, as well as the 
State and the Town, brought together 
by the Bostonian Society, to whose 

control these rooms passed, through lease by the city, upon the resto- 
ration of the building. The collection embraces a rich variety of 
interesting relics : historical manuscripts and papers ; quaint paintings, 
engravings, and prints ; numerous portraits of old worthies ; and many 
photographs illustrating Boston in various periods. In the Council 
Chamber is the old table formerly used by the royal governors and 
councillors. 

The Bostonian Society, established here, was incorporated in 1881 "to pro- 
mote the study of the history of Boston, and the preservation of its antiquities"; 
and in it was merged the Antiquarian Club, organized in 1879 especially for the 
promotion of historical research, whose members had been most influential in the 
campaign for the preservation of this building. It has rendered excellent service 
in the identification of historic sites and in verifying historical records. 




Franklin Press, Old State House 



io DOWN STATE STREET 

Deep down below the basement of the building is now the State sta- 
tion of the Washington Street Tunnel, and also the State Street station 
of the East Boston Tunnel, which runs directly under the ancient struc- 
ture to Scollay Square, where it connects by passageways with the 

Subway. 

The first Town House, completed in 1659, was provided for by the will of 
Captain Kcaync, the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company's chief founder 
(the longest will on record, comprising 158 folio pages in the testator's own 
hand, though disposing of only ^4000). Captain Keayne left ^300 for the pur- 
pose, and to this sum was added £\oo more, raised by subscription among the 
townspeople, and paid largely in provisions, merchandise, and labor. It was a 
small ''comely building" of wood, set upon twenty pillars, overhanging the 
pillars " three feet all around," and topped by two tall slender turrets. The 
place inclosed by the pillars was a free public market, and an exchange, or " walk 
for the merchants." 

It contained the beginnings of the first public library in America, for which 
provision was made in Captain Keayne's will. Portions of this library were 
saved from the fire of 171 1 which destroyed the building; but these probably 
perished later in the burning of the second Town and Province House. 

The second house, of brick, completed in 17 13, also had an open public 
exchange on the street floor. Surrounding it were thriving booksellers' shops, 
observing which Daniel Neal, visiting the town in 1719, was moved to remark 
that "the Knowledge of Letters flourishes more here than in all the other Eng- 
lish plantations put together; for in the city of New York there is but one book- 
seller's shop, and in the Plantations of Virginia, Maryland, Carolina, Barbadoes, 
and the Islands, none at all." So, it appears, thus early Boston was the " liter- 
ary center " of the country, a fact calculated to bring almost as great satisfaction 
to the complacent Bostonian as that later-day saying in the " Autocrat " (in 
which this stamp of Bostonian declines to recognize any satire), that "Boston 
State-House is the hub of the solar system." 

Down State Street. Following State Street to its end, we shall come 
upon Long Wharf (originally Boston Pier, dating from 1710), where the 
formal landings of the royal governors were made, the main landing 
place of the British soldiers when they came, and the departing place 
at the Evacuation. At that time it was a long, narrow pier, extending 
out beyond the other wharves, the tide ebbing and flowing beneath the 
stores that lined it. Atlantic Avenue, the water-front thoroughfare 
that now crosses it, and on which the elevated railway runs, follows 
generally the line of the ancient Barricado, an early harbor defense 
erected in 1673 between the north and south outer points of the " Great 
Cove." It connected the North Battery, where is now Battery Wharf, 
and the South Battery, or " Boston Sconce," at the present Rowe's 
Wharf, where the steamer for Nantasket is taken. It was provided 



FANEUIL HALL AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD 



II 



with openings to allow vessels to pass inside, and so came to be 
generally called the "Out Wharves." Its line is so designated on 
the early maps. 

In the short walk down State Street are passed in succession on 
either side of the way notable modern structures that have almost 
entirely replaced the varied architecture of different periods, which 
before gave this street a peculiar distinction and a certain picturesque- 
ness that is now wanting. The Exchange Building" takes the place of 
the first Merchants' Exchange, a dignified building in its day (1842- 
1890), covering a very small part of the ground over which the pres- 
ent structure spreads. The Board of Trade Building, at the east corner 
of Broad Street, is, perhaps, the most attractive in design of the newer 
architecture. At the India Street corner, its massive granite-pillared 
front facing that street, and heavy granite columns surrounding it on 
all sides, stood, till 19 12, the United 
States Custom House (dating from 
1847), in marked contrast with its 
younger neighbors. Its site was the 
head of Long Wharf, and the bow- 
sprits of vessels lying there, stretch- 
ing across the street, almost touched 
its eastern side. Its successor, now 
erecting (1913), preserves it in large 
part as the basis of a broad and 
lofty tower, which will rise far above 
the neighboring buildings. 

On India Street, a few rods south 
of this specimen of a past architecture, is the modern Chamber of Com- 
merce (built in 1902), also of granite. Viewed from a distance, its 
rounded front, with turreted dormer windows and conical tower, has 
a unique appearance. Opposite it opens Custom House Street, only a 
block in length, where is still standing the Older Custom House, built in 
1810, in which Bancroft, the historian, served as collector of the port 
in 1838-1841, and which was the "darksome dungeon" where Haw- 
thorne spent his two years as a customs officer, first as a measurer of 
salt and coal, then as a weigher and gauger. 

Faneuil Hall and its Neighborhood. From lower State Street we can 
pass to Faneuil Hall by w r ay of Commercial Street and the long granite 
Quincy Market House, — the central piece of the great work of the first 
Mayor Josiah Quincy, in 1 825-1 826, in the construction of six new 
streets over a sweep of flats and docks, — or we may go direct from the 
Old State House through Exchange Street, a walk of a few minutes. 




Old Custom House 



12 



FANEUIL HALL AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD 



Faneuil Hall as now seen is the " Cradle of Liberty " of the Revolu- 
tionary period doubled in width and a story higher. The enlargement 
was made in 1805, under the superintendence of Charles Bulfinch, the 
pioneer Boston architect of enduring fame, whose most characteristic 
work we shall see in the " Bulfinch Front " of the present State House. 
The hall was built in 1 762-1 763, upon the brick walls of the first 
Faneuil Hall, Peter Faneuil's gift to the town in 1742, which was 
consumed, except its walls, in a fire in January, 1762. Bulfinch, in his 
work of 1805, introduced the galleries resting on Doric columns, and 
the platform with its extended front, with various interior embellish- 
ments. In 1S98 the entire building was reconstructed with fireproof 

material on the Bulfinch plan, 
iron, steel, and stone being sub- 
stituted for wood and combus- 
tible material. 

Of the fine collection of por- 
traits on the walls many are 
copies, the originals having been 
placed in the Museum of Fine 
Arts for safe-keeping. The great 
historical painting at the back of 
the platform, " Webster's Reply 
to Hayne," by G. P. A. Healy, 
contains one hundred and thirty 
portraits of senators and other 
men of distinction at that time. 
The scene -is the old Senate 
Chamber, now the apartment 
of the United States Supreme 
Court. The canvas measures 
sixteen by thirty feet. The por- 
trait of Peter Faneuil, on one 
side of this painting, is a copy 
by Colonel Henry Sargent, from a smaller portrait in the Art Museum, 
and was given to the city by Samuel Parkman, grandfather of the his- 
torian Parkman. It takes the place of a full-length portrait executed 
by order of the town in 1 744, as a " testimony of respect " to the 
donor of the hall, which disappeared, and was probably destroyed, at 
the siege of Boston, — the fate also of portraits of George II, Colonel 
Isaac Barre, and Field Marshal Conway, the last two solicited by the 
town in gratitude for the defense of Americans on the floor of Parlia- 
ment. The full-length Washington, on the other side of the great 




Faneiil Hall 



ANCIENT AND HONORABLE ARTILLERY COMPANY 13 

painting, is a Gilbert Stuart. It, also, was presented to the town by 
Samuel Parkman, in 1806. Of the portraits elsewhere hung, those of 
Warren, Hancock, Samuel Adams, John Adams, and John Quincy 
Adams are all Copleys. The General Harry Knox and the Commo- 
dore Preble are credited to Stuart. The Abraham Lincoln and Rufus 
Choate are by Ames. The "war governor," John A. Andrew, is by 
William M. Hunt. The others — Robert Treat Paine, Caleb Strong, 
Edward Everett, Admiral Winslow, Wendell Phillips, and Anson Bur- 
lingame — are by various American painters. The ornamental clock 
in the face of the gallery over the main entrance was a gift of Boston 
school children in 1850. The gilded spread eagle was originally on the 
facade of the United States Bank which, erected in 1798, preceded 
the first Merchants' Exchange on State Street. The gilded grass- 
hopper on the cupola of the building, serving as a weather vane, is the 
reconstructed, or rejuvenated, original one of 1742, fashioned from 
sheet copper by the "cunning artificer," "Deacon" Shem Drowne, 
immortalized by Hawthorne in " Drowne's Wooden Image." 

The floors above the public hall have been occupied by the Ancient 
and Honorable Artillery Company for many years. Its armory is a rich 
museum of relics of Colonial, Provincial, and Revolutionary times, 
and is hospitably open to appreciative inspection. Among the treas- 
ured memorials here are the various banners of the company, the 
oldest being that carried in 1663. Eighteen silk flags reproduce colo- 
nial colors and their various successors. In the London room are 
mementos of the visit of a section of the company to England in the 
summer of 1896, as guests of the Honourable Artillery Company of 
London. On the walls of the main hall are portraits of one hundred 
and fourteen captains of the company. On the street floor of the 
building is the market, which has continued from its establishment 
with the first Faneuil Hall in 1742. John Smibert, the Scotch painter, 
long resident and celebrated in Boston from 1729, was the architect of 
the first building. 

Faneuil Hall was instituted primarily as a market house, the inclusion of a 
public town hall in the scheme being an afterthought of the donor. Peter 
Faneuil's offer to provide a suitable building at his own expense upon condition 
only that the town should legalize and maintain it, was at a time of controversy 
over the town market houses then existing. Three had been set up seven years 
before, one close to this site, in Dock Square ; one at the North End, in North 
Square ; the third at the then South End, by the south corner of the present 
Boylston and Washington streets. The Dock Square market was the principal 
one, and this had recently been demolished by a mob " disguised as clergymen." 
The contention was over the market system. One faction demanded a return to 



14 FANEUIL HALL AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD 

the method of service at the home of the townspeople, as before the setting up 
of these market houses ; the others insisted upon the fixed market-house system. 
So high did the feeling run that Faneuil's gift was accepted by the town by the 
narrow margin of seven votes. 

The building was completed in September, 1742. It was only one hundred 
feet in length and forty feet wide. But it was of brick, and substantial. The 
hall, calculated to hold only one thousand persons, was pronounced in the vote 
of the first town meeting held in it as "spacious and beautiful." In the same 
vote it was named Faneuil Hall, " to be at all times hereafter called and known 
by that name," in testimony of the town's gratitude to its giver and to perpetu- 
ate his memory. Then his full-length portrait was ordered for the hall; and a 
year and a half later the Faneuil arms, "elegantly carved and gilt" by Moses 
Deshon, the same who later carved the Colony seal for the Town House (see 
p. 9), were added at the town's expense. 

The first public gathering in the hall, other than a town meeting, was, sin- 
gularly, to commemorate Faneuil, he having died suddenly, March 3, 1743, 
but a few months after the completion of the building. On this occasion the 
eulogist was John Lovell, master of the Latin School, who in the subsequent 
prerevolutionary controversies was a Loyalist, and at the Evacuation went off to 
Halifax. The Faneuils who succeeded Peter, his nephews, were also Loyalists, 
and left the country with the Evacuation. 

The second Faneuil Hall, embraced in the present structure, was built by the 
town, and the building fund was largely obtained through a lottery authorized by 
the General Court. The first public meeting in this hall was on March 14, 1763, 
when the patriot James Otis was the orator, and by him the hall was dedicated 
to the " Cause of Liberty." Then followed those town meetings of the Revolu- 
tionary period, debating the question of "justifiable resistance," from which the 
hall derived its sobriquet of the "Cradle of American Liberty." In 1766 on 
the news of the Stamp Act repeal the hall was illuminated. In 1768 one of the 
British regiments was quartered here for some weeks. In 1772 the Boston Com- 
mittee of Correspondence, " to state the rights of the colonists " to the world, 
was established here, on that motion of Samuel Adams which Bancroft says 
"contained the whole Revolution." In 1773 the "Little Senate," composed 
of the committees of the several towns, began their conferences with the 
" ever-vigilant " Boston committee, in the selectmen's room. During the siege 
the hall was transformed into a playhouse, under the patronage of a society 
of British officers and Tory ladies, when soldiers were the actors, and a 
local farce, " The Blockade of Boston," by General Burgoyne, was the chief 
attraction. 

Since the Revolution the hall has been the popular meeting place of citizens 
on important and grave occasions, and a host of national leaders, orators, and 
agitators have spoken from its historic rostrum. In 1826 Webster delivered here 
his memorable eulogy on Adams and Jefferson, in the presence of President 
John Quincy Adams and an audience of exceptional character. Here in 1837 
Wendell Phillips made his first antislavery speech; in 1845 Charles Sumner first 
publicly appeared in this cause; in 1846 the antislavery Vigilance Committee 
was formed at a meeting to denounce the return of a fugitive slave; in 1854 the 



HANCOCK TAVERN 



*5 



preconcerted signal was given, at a crowded meeting to protest against the 
rendition of Anthony Burns, for the bold but fruitless move on the Court House 
(see p. 19) to effect the escape of this fugitive slave. 

Faneuil Hall is protected by a provision of the city charter forbidding its sale 
or lease. It is never let for money, but is opened to the people upon the request 
of a certain number of citizens, who must agree to comply with the prescribed 
regulations. 

Faneuil Hall occupies made land close to the head of the Old 
Town Dock. The streets around the sides and back of the building 
constitute Faneuil Hall Square. From the south side of this square 
opens Com Court, which runs in irregular form to Merchants Row. 
This space was the Corn Market of Colonial times. A landmark 
of a later day here, which remained till 1903, was an old inn 
long known as Hancock Tavern. While not so ancient as it was 
assumed to be, nor occupying, as 
alleged, the site of the first tavern 
in the town, it was an interesting 
landmark with rich associations. 
It became the Hancock Tavern when 
John Hancock was made the first 
governor of the Commonwealth, and 
the swing sign displaying his roughly 
painted portrait is still preserved. 
At other periods it was the Brazier 
Inn, kept by Madam Brazier, niece 
of Provincial Lieutenant Governor 
Spencer Phipps (1733), who made 
a specialty of a noonday punch for 
its patrons. In this tavern lodged 
Talleyrand, when exiled from France, 
during his stay in Boston in 1795; 

also, two years later, Louis Philippe; and, in 1796, the exiled 
French priest, John Cheverus, who afterward became the first Roman 
Catholic bishop of Boston. An annex to a modern office building 
occupies its site. 

East of Corn Court, near the east end of Faneuil Hall, also on land 
reclaimed from the Town Dock, was John Hancock's Store, where he 
advertised for sale " English and India goods, also choice Newcastle 
Coals and Irish Butter, Cheap for Cash." West of Corn Court opens 
Change Alley (incongruously designated as "avenue"), a quaint, narrow 
foot passage to State Street, one of the earliest ways established in 
the town. It was sometime Flagg Alley, from being laid out with flag 




The Adams Statue 



1 6 CORNHILL AND ABOUT SCOLLAY SQUARE 

stones. Until the erection of the great financial buildings that now 
largely wall it in, the alley was picturesque with bustling little shops. 

On the west side of Faneuil Hall Square the triangle, covered with 
low, old buildings, marks the head of the ancient Town Dock. 

Old Dock Square makes into modern Adams Square (opened in 1879), 
near the middle of which stands the bronze statue of Samuel Adams, 
by Anne Whitney. This is a counterpart of the statue of the revolu- 
tionary leader in the Capitol at Washington. It portrays him as he is 
supposed to have appeared when before Lieutenant Governor Hutchin- 
son and the council, in the Council Chamber of the Old State House, 
as chairman of the committee of the town meeting the day after the 
Boston Massacre of 1770, and at the moment that, having delivered 
the people's demand for the instant removal of the British soldiers 
from the town, he stood with a resolute look awaiting Hutchinson's 
reply. 

The principal architectural feature of this open space is the stone 
Adams Square Station of the Subway. 

Cornhill and about Scollay Square. From the west side of Adams 
Square we pass into Cornhill, early in its day a place of bookshops, 
and still occupied by several booksellers at long-established stands. 
It is the second Cornhill, the first having been the part of the present 
Washington Street between old Dock Square and School Street. Wash- 
ington Street originally ended at Dock Square north of the present 
Cornhill, and its extension to Haymarket Square (1872), where it now 
ends, greatly changed this part of the town and obliterated various 
landmarks. A little north of the present opening of Cornhill, lost in 
the Washington Street extension, was the site of the dwelling of Ben- 
jamin Edes, where, on the afternoon preceding the Boston Tea Party of 
December 16, 1773, a number of the leaders in that affair met and 
partook of punch from the punch bowl now possessed by the Massa- 
chusetts Historical Society. 

This Cornhill dates from 181 6, and was first called Cheapside, after 
the London fashion. Then for a while it was Market Street, being a 
new way to Faneuil Hall Market. From its northerly side was once an 
archway leading to Brattle Street and old Dock Square, which also 
disappeared in the extension of Washington Street. Midway, at its 
curve toward Court Street, where it ends, it is crossed by Franklin 
Avenue (another short passageway, or alley, with this ambitious title), 
at the Court Street end of which was Edes & Gill's printing office, the 
principal rendezvous of the Tea-Party men, in a back room of which a 
number of them assumed their disguise. This was on the westerly 
corner of the "avenue," then Dasset Alley, and Court, then Queen, 



BRATTLE SQUARE CHURCH 17 

Street. Earlier, on the east corner, was the printing office of Benjamin 
Franklin's brother James, where the boy franklin learned the printer's 
trade as his brother's apprentice, and composed those ballads on " The 
Lighthouse Tragedy" and on " Teach " (or " Blackbeard"), the pirate, 
which he peddled about the streets with a success that "flattered" 
his "vanity," though they were "wretched stuff," as he confesses in 
his Autobiography. Here James Franklin issued his New England 
Conrant, the fourth newspaper to appear in America, which Franklin 
managed during the month in which his brother was imprisoned for 
printing an article offensive to the Assembly, and himself " made 
bold to give our rulers some rubs in it"; and which, after James's 
release, inhibited from publishing, was issued for a while under 
Benjamin's name. 

The north end of Franklin Avenue, from Cornhill by a short flight 
of steps, is at Brattle Street, a little way above the site of Murray's 
Barracks, on the opposite side, where were quartered the Twenty- 
Ninth, the regiment of the British force of 176S-1770 most obnoxious 
to the " Bostoneers," and where the fracas began that culminated in 
the Boston Massacre. The Quincy House, nearer the avenue's end, 
covers the site of the first Quaker meetinghouse, built in 1697, the first 
brick meetinghouse in the town. Opposite the side of the Quincy 
House, facing Brattle Square, stood till 1871 the Brattle Square 
Church, which after the Revolution bore on its front a memento of 
the Siege, in the shape of a cannon ball, thrown there by an Amer- 
ican battery at Cambridge on the night of the Evacuation. This was 
the meetinghouse alluded to in Holmes's " A Rhymed Lesson," 

. . . that, mindful of the hour 
When Howe's artillery shook its half-built tower, 
Wears on its bosom, as a bride might do, 
The iron breastpin which the ' Rebels ' threw. 

A model of the church as it thus appeared is in the house of the 
Massachusetts Historical Society, where also the cannon ball is pre- 
served. The quoins of the structure, of Connecticut stone, were placed 
inside the tower of its successor on Commonwealth Avenue, Back Bay, 
now the church of the First Baptist Society. Though new, and " the 
pride of the town " at the time of the Revolution, having been conse- 
crated in 1773, it was utilized as barracks for the British soldiers ; and 
only the fact that the removal of the pillars which embellished its inte- 
rior would have endangered the structure, prevented its use during the 
Siege as a military riding school, like the Old South Meetinghouse 
(see p. 51). It was the church that Hancock, Bowdoin, and Warren 



i8 



CORNHILL AND ABOUT SCOLLAY SQUARE 



attended. Warren's house, from 1764, was near by on Hanover Street, 
on the site now covered by the American House. 

At the head of Cornhill, in front of Scollay Square, stood the bronze 
statue of John Winthrop until its removal was necessitated by the 
East Boston Tunnel work below it in 1903. It was well worth a 

moment's study, though the 
constant traffic of the busy 
thoroughfare made its near 
neighborhood perilous. The 
Colonial governor, clad in 
the picturesque costume of 
the period, is represented as 
stepping from a gang board 
to the shore. In his right 
hand he holds the charter 
of the Colony by its great 
seal ; in his left the Bible. 
Behind the figure appears 
the base of a newly hewn 
forest tree, with a rope at- 
tached, significant of the fas- 
tening of a boat. The statue 
is the work of Richard S. 
Greenough and is a copy of 
the marble one in the Capitol 
at Washington. It was cast in 
Rome. It was first erected 
in 1SS0, on the 250th anni- 
versary of the settlement of 
Boston. It now stands on 
Marlborough Street, beside 
the First Church (see p. 79). 
About where the Scollay 
Square Station stands, or a little north of its site, was the first 
Free Writing School, set up in 168 3-1684. This was the second 
school in the town, the first being on School Street, as we shall 
presently see. It continued in use till after the Revolution (or 
about 1793), Utterly known as the Central Reading and Writing 
School. 

Looking down Court Street eastward, we have in near view the 
handsome pillared front of the City Hall Annex. This occupies the site 
of the Old Court House, dating from 1S36, designed by Solomon Willard, 




Court Street 



COLONIAL PRISON 



r 9 



the architect of Bunker Hill Monument, and built of Quincy granite. 
Ponderous fluted columns, eight in all, each weighing twenty-five tons, 
embellished its front, and also, originally, its rear. The first two were 
brought over the roads from Quincy by sixty-five yoke of oxen and ten 
horses, making a great street show. This building was the center of 
the exciting scenes attending the fugitive slave cases in 1851 and 1854. 
Here is the main entrance to the East Boston Tunnel. 



Here occurred first, in February, 185 1, the rescue of Shadrach, who had been 
confined in the United States court room awaiting action upon a process for his 
rendition. Six weeks later came the Thomas 
Sims affair, when, to prevent the rescue of this 
slave, the building was guarded and surrounded 
with chains breast high, under which the judges 
and all others having business within were 
obliged to stoop to reach the doors. Finally, 
in May, 1854, occurred the Anthony Burns riot, 
on the evening of the 26th, with the failure of 
the rescue planned by a number of the anti- 
slavery " Vigilance Committee," when, in the 
assault made at the entrance on the west side 
of the building, one of the marshal's deputies 
was killed. It was after this affair that indict- 
ments were brought against Theodore Parker, 
Wendell Phillips, Thomas Wentworth Higgin- 
son, and several others, for "obstructing the 
process of the United States." For their 
defense a formidable array of counsel appeared 
here, but the indictment was quashed. 




S. 




The Winthrop Statuk 



On this same spot was the Colonial 
prison, its outer walls of stone three feet 
thick, with unglazed iron-barred windows, 
stout oaken doors covered with iron, hard 
cells, and gloomy passages, where were incarcerated the Quakers and, 
later, victims of the witchcraft delusion. Here also, after the over- 
throw of Andros in 1689, Ratcliffe, the rector of the first Episcopal 
church, which Andros so fostered (see King's Chapel, p. 24), was 
confined with his leading parishioners for nine months, till sent to 
England by royal command. Another distinguished prisoner here, 
in 1699, was the piratical Captain Kidd. It was this prison that 
Hawthorne fancifully describes in "The Scarlet Letter." The prison 
was first placed here in 1642, and gave to the street the name of Prison 
Lane, which it bore through the seventeenth century. Then it became 
Queen Street, and Court Street after the Revolution. 



20 TREMONT STREET 

Looking westward up Court Street to the upper side, called Tremont 
Row. we may imagine the site of Governor John Endicott's house, where 
he lived after his removal from Salem to Boston, and where, in 
1661, Samuel Shattuck, bearing the order of the King releasing the 
imprisoned Quakers, had audience with him, — the event upon which 
Whittier's "The King's Missive" is founded. This house is variously 
placed by local authorities on Tremont Row, between Tremont Street 
and Howard Street, but the best evidence appears to point to a situ- 
ation toward the Howard Street end. 

Tremont Street and King's Chapel. Now we take Tremont Street. 
From the west side, at its beginning, opens the short way up to Pern- 
berton Square, at the head of which we see the facade of the present 
County Court House (built 1887-1893). This long granite structure in the 
German Renaissance style of architecture was designed by George A. 
Clough. Its plan is on the system of open courtyards : four are in the 
area of the general block. It covers 65,300 feet of land. The feature 
of the interior is the great hall, broad and lofty, a flight of steps ascend- 
ing to it from the front entrance, and other flights ascending from it to 
the rear exit on Somerset Street. Upon the faces of the cornices in the 
vestibule at the main entrance are statuesque bas-reliefs of Law, Justice, 
Wisdom, Innocence, and Guilt. On one side of the hall is the bronze 
statue of Rufus Choate, the great lawyer of his day. This is by Daniel 
C. French. It was placed in 1898. It was a gift to the city, provided 
for in the will of George B. Hyde, a Boston public-school master. The 
donor was sometime master of the Dwight School for boys, and after- 
ward principal of the Everett School for girls. 

Pemberton Square marks the second highest peak of Beacon Hill. 
This peak at first received the name of Cotton Hill, from the Rev. John 
Cotton, the early minister of the First Church, whose house was on its 
slope facing Tremont Street. The Cotton estate originally spread over 
this peak, extending back across Somerset Street to about the middle 
of Ashburton Place in the rear of the Court House. 

The peak rose originally in irregular heights, the loftiest bluff being 
at the southerly end of Pemberton Square, or on the west side of 
Tremont Street about opposite the gate of King's Chapel Burying 
Ground. Against its slopes were early favorite places for house sites. 

John Cotton's house was set up in 1633, soon after his arrival in the 
Griffin. It stood a little south of the entrance to Pemberton Square. 
Next above, or adjoining it, was Sir Harry Vane's house. This was built 
by the young statesman a few months after his arrival (October, 1635), 
he having at first been the minister's guest. It was Vane's home when 
he was governor of the Colony in 1636-1637. Later the Cotton house 



KING'S CHAPEL BURYING GROUND 



21 



came into possession of John Hull, the " mint master," who made the 
pine-tree shillings, the first New England money. In course of time 
it fell to Chief Justice Samuel Sewall (one of the witchcraft judges at 
Salem in 1692), the diarist of early Boston, through his marriage with 
the " mint master's " daughter Hannah, whose wedding dowry, tradition 
tells, was her weight in the pine-tree shillings. 

About on the site now occupied by the showy Beacon Theater, but 
back from the street, was Richard Bellingham's stone house, in which he 
lived through his several terms as governor and till his death in 1672. 
He was dwelling here 
when, in 1641, he scan- 
dalized his brethren by 
the manner of his mar- 
riage to Penelope Pel- 
ham, his second wife, 
without "publishing" 
the marriage intention, 
and especially by per- 
forming the marriage 
ceremony himself, being 
a magistrate, as Win- 
throp relates in pictur- 
esque detail in his 
journal. 

In the next century 
the grand Faneuil man- 
sion and terraced 
gardens were here. 
This was the estate that Peter Faneuil inherited in 1737 and was 
occupying when he built Faneuil Hall. It was maintained in all its 
elegance by its several owners till some years after the Revolution. 
At that time it was confiscated, its owner being a Royalist, — William 
Vassal, uncle of the Colonel John Vassal who built the Cambridge 
mansion now treasured as the Longfellow house. Early in the nine- 
teenth century it was joined to the Gardner Greene estate, the finest 
in the town. 

The peak was finally cut down in the thirties, and Pemberton Square was 
then laid out through the Greene estate as a place of genteel residences in 
.blocks, which character it sustained till the late eighteen sixties. 

On the east side the Boston Museum, razed in 1903 to make way for the 
modern Kimball Building here, long stood the oldest playhouse of the city. 




Old Boston Museum 



22 KING'S CHAPEL BURYING GROUND 

For more than half a century it was a familiar landmark. At first 
the museum proper, with its halls of marvelous curiosities, was the 
chief feature of the institution, the performances being subordinate 
to these attractions, and the theater being called " the lecture hall," to 
quiet the consciences of its patrons, who shied from the openly pro- 
claimed playhouse. William Warren, the " prince of comedians," as 
Bostonians delighted in calling him, was identified with the Museum for 
forty years. Here Edwin Booth made his first appearance on any stage. 

From King's Chapel to Park Street Church. King's Chapel Burying 
Ground, adjoining the old stone church, is very nearly as ancient as the 
town of Boston. The exact date of its establishment is not known, 
but it was probably soon after the beginning of the settlement, for this 
record appears in Winthrop's journal: " Capt. Welden, a hopeful young 
gent, & an experienced soldier, dyed at Charlestowne of a consumption, 
and was buryed at Boston wth a military funeral." And Dudley wrote 
that the young man was "buryed as a souldier with three volleys of 
shott." The earliest interment of record here was that of Governor 
Winthrop in 1649. Xt is believed that his third wife, Margaret Winthrop, 
who followed him to New England the year after he came out and who 
died two years before him, was also buried here. 

In the same tomb are the ashes of other distinguished Winthrops, — 
the Massachusetts governor's eldest son and grandsons: John Win- 
throp, Jr., the governor of the Connecticut Colony, who died in 1676, 
and John Jr.'s two sons, Fitz John Winthrop, governor of the United 
Colonies of Connecticut (died 1707), and Wait Still Winthrop, chief 
justice of Massachusetts and sometime major general of the forces of 
the Colony (died 17 17). A second Winthrop tomb contains the dust 
of Professor John Winthrop of Harvard College, the friend of Franklin 
and correspondent of John Adams (died in 1779). 

The first Winthrop tomb is seen not far from the middle of the 
ground. Beside it is the tomb of Elder Thomas Oliver of the First 
Church, which subsequently became the property of the church ; and 
close to this a horizontal tablet informs that " here lyes intombed the 
bodyes of ye famous reverend and learned pastors of the First Church 
of Christ in Boston, viz:" John Cotton, aged 67 years, died 1652; John 
Davenport, 72 years, died 1670; John Oxenbridge, aged 66 years, died 
1674; and Thomas Bridge, aged 58 years, died 171 5. Near by are 
the modest gravestones of Sarah, "the widow of the beloved John 
Cotton and excellent Richard Mather," and of Elizabeth, widow of 
John Davenport. 

In the middle of the ground is the marble monument to Colonel 
Thomas Dawes, a leading Boston mechanic of his day, who died in 



KING'S CHAPEL 23 

1809, and near it the tomb of Governor John Leverett. A few steps 
distant is that of the Boston branch of the Plymouth Colony Winslow 
family. Here are the ashes of John Winslow, brother of Governor 
Edward Winslow, with those of the former's wife, who was Mary Chilton, 
one of the Mayflower passengers, heroine of the popular but apoc- 
ryphal tale of the first woman to spring ashore from the Pilgrim ship. 
In a cluster of ancient tombs are those of Jacob Sheafe, an opulent 
merchant of Colony times, in which was afterward buried the Rev. 
Thomas Thacher, first pastor of the Old South Church (died 1678), 
who married Sheafe's widow; and of Thomas Brattle (died 1683), said 
probably to have been the wealthiest merchant of his day, whose son 
Thomas became a treasurer and benefactor of Harvard College. A 
tomb of especial interest in this quarter is the Benjamin Church 
tomb, for herein were deposited the remains of Lady Andros, the wife 
of Governor Andros, who died in February, 1688, and of whose funeral 
in the nighttime from the Old South Meetinghouse Sewall gives a 
quaint account in his diary. Other tombs of note are those of Major 
Thomas Savage, one of the commanders in King Philip's War, and 
Judge Oliver Wendell, grandfather of Oliver Wendell Holmes. 

Many of the old tombstones here have been shifted from their proper 
places and made to serve as edge stones along the paths beyond the 
principal gateway. This vandalism was the performance years ago of 
a superintendent of burials who was possessed with an evil " eye for 
symmetry." 

King's Chapel in part occupies the upper end of this burying ground, 
which extended originally to School Street, the land having been taken 
by Governor Andros in 1688 for the first Episcopal church, no Puritan 
landholder being found who would sell for such a purpose. This 
building dates from 1754 and is the second King's Chapel on the spot. 
Its aspect has been little changed, beyond the enrichment of the interior, 
from Province days. The low solid edifice of dark stone, with its heavy 
square tower surrounded by wooden Ionic columns, stands as it appeared 
when it was the official church of the royal governors. The stone of 
which it is constructed came from Quincy (then Braintree), where it was 
taken from the surface, there being then no quarries. It was built so 
as to inclose the first chapel, in which services were held for the greater 
part of the time consumed in the slow work, — about five years. Peter 
Harrison, an Englishman who came out in 1729 in the train of Dean 
Berkeley to have part in the dean's projected but never established 
university, was the architect. His model was the familiar English 
church of the eighteenth century ; so the visitor sees in the fashion 
of the interior, its rows of columns supporting the ceiling, the antique 



24 KING'S CHAPEL 

pulpit and reading desk, the mural tablets and the sculptured monu- 
ments that line the walls, a pleasant likeness to an old London church. 
Memorials of the first chapel are preserved in the chancel. The com- 
munion table of 1688 is still in use. Several of the mural tablets are 
of the Provincial period. On the organ are in their ancient places the 
gilt miters and crown, which were removed at the Revolution and 
deposited in a place of safety. Among the tablets on the northern 
wall is one to the memory of Oliver Wendell Holmes. This was placed 
in the autumn of 1895. The inscription was composed by ex-President 
Eliot of Harvard University. 

At the Evacuation the venerable rector, Mr. Caner, fled with the Loyalists of 
his parish, taking off with him to Halifax the church registers, plate, and vest- 
ments, but most of these were in later years 
restored. 

The last Loyalist service before the Evacua- 
tion was on the preceding Sunday. In less than 
a month after the Evacuation the chapel was 
reopened for the obsequies of General Joseph 
Warren, who fell at Bunker Hill, and on 
- that occasion the orator, Perez 

Morton, advocated independ- 
• r •;. ..-..r7^ . ence. For more than two years 

_ . thereafter the chapel was closed. 

I ' Then it was opened to the Old 
South congregation, and it was 
used by the latter for nearly 
five years, when their meeting- 

King's Chapel house was restored. In 1782 

the remnant of the society 
renewed their services with the Rev. James Freeman as "reader." In 1787 
Mr. Freeman was ordained as rector, and at that time this first Episcopal church 
in New England became the first Unitarian church in America. A bust of Mr. 
Freeman is among the mural monuments. 

The original King's Chapel of 1688 was a small wooden structure, built at a 
cost of ^284 16 s, contributed by persons throughout the Colony, with subscrip- 
tions from Andros and other English officers. For more than two years before 
its erection the Episcopal congregation had joint occupancy of the Old South 
Church with its proper owners, by order of Governor Andros against their 
earnest and constant protest. The church organization was formed in 1686, 
under the aggressive leadership of Edward Randolph, with the Rev. Robert Rat- 
cliffe as rector, who had come from England commissioned to establish the 
Church of England in the Colony. The use of any of the Congregational meet- 
inghouses being denied them, the projectors of the church founded it in the 
" library room " of the Town House. This was their place of meeting till 
Andros ordered the Old South opened to them. When Andros was overthrown 




TREMONT TEMPLE 25 

the rector and his leading parishioners were imprisoned till their return to Eng- 
land (see p. 19). The remnant of the congregation resumed services in the 
chapel, which was finished a few months after Andros's departure. 

In 1 7 10 the chapel was enlarged to twice its size. Then the exterior was 
embellished with a tower surmounted by a tall mast half-way up which was a 
large gilt crown and at the top a weathercock. Within the enlarged chapel the 
governor's pew, raised on a dais higher by two steps than the others, hung with 
crimson curtains and surmounted by the royal crown, was opposite the pulpit, 
which itself stood on the north side at about the center. Near the governor's 
pew was another reserved for officers of the British army and navy. Displayed 
along the walls and suspended from the pillars were the escutcheons and coats of 
arms of the king, Sir Edmund Andros, Governors Dudley, Shute, Burnet, Belcher, 
and Shirley, and other persons of distinction. At the east end was " the altar 
piece, whereon was the Glory painted, the Ten Commandments, the Lord's 
Prayer, the Creed, and some texts of Scripture." The communion plate was a 
royal gift. 

Less than a block beyond King's Chapel, on the opposite side of 
Tremont Street, we come to the Granary Burying Ground, established 
only about thirty years after the Chapel Burying Ground (in 1660), and 
of greater historic interest, perhaps, because of the more numerous 
memorials here. 

On the short walk from the Chapel we pass the site of the birthplace 
of Edward E. Hale, covered by the upper part of the Parker House. This 
hotel also covers, on its School Street side, the site of the home of Oliver 
Wendell, the maternal grandfather of Oliver Wendell Holmes, for whom 
he was named. On Bosworth Street, the first passage opening from 
Tremont Street, opposite the burying ground, — a courtlike street end- 
ing with stone steps which lead down to a more ancient cross street, — 
w T as Doctor Holmes's home for eighteen years from 1841, the "house at 
the left hand next the farther corner," which he describes in "The 
Autocrat." 

The Tremont Temple, next above the Parker House, is the building 
of the Union Temple (Baptist) Church, founded in 1839, a free church 
from its beginning. It is the fourth temple on this site, each of the 
previous ones having been destroyed by fire. The first one was a 
theater remodeled in 1843. The playhouse was the Tremont 
Theater, first opened in 1835, one of the most interesting of its 
class and time. 

It was here that Charlotte Cushman made her debut, in April, 1835 ; that 
Fanny Kemble first appeared before a Boston audience ; that operas were first 
produced in Boston. 

In the large public hall of the second Tremont Temple Charles Dickens gave 
his readings during his last visit to America, in 1868. 



26 



GRANARY BURYING GROUND 



The large Tremont Building opposite occupies the site of the Tre- 
mont House, a famous inn through its career of more than sixty years 
from 1829, of which Dickens wrote, "it has more galleries, colon- 
nades, piazzas, and passages than I can remember, or the reader would 
believe." Preceding the inn, fine mansion houses with gardens were 
here, one of them being the estate of Thomas Handasyd Perkins, a 
genuine "solid man of Boston," a benefactor of the Boston Athenaeum 
and of other Boston institutions. 

On the gates of the Granary Burying Ground, 
set in their high ivy-mantled stone frame, are 
tablets inscribed with the names of many of the 
notables buried here. They include governors of 
various periods, — Richard Bellingham, William 
Dummer, James Bowdoin, Increase Sumner, 
James Sullivan, and Christopher Gore ; signers 
of the Declaration of Independence, — John 
Hancock, Samuel Adams, and Robert Treat 
Paine ; ministers, — John Baily (of the First 
Church), Samuel Willard (of the Old South 
Church), Jeremy Belknap (founder of the Massa- 
chusetts Historical Society), and John Lathrop 
(of the Second Church) ; Chief Justice Samuel 
Sewall ; Peter Faneuil ; Paul Revere ; Josiah 
Franklin and wife, parents of Benjamin Franklin ; 
Thomas Cushing, lieutenant 
governor, 1 780-1 788; John 
Phillips, first mayor of Bos- 
ton, and father of Wendell 
Phillips; and the victims of 
the Boston Massacre of 1770. 
Besides these, others of 
like distinction are entombed 
here, among them James 
Otis ; the Rev. Thomas Prince, 
the learned annalist ; the Rev. 
Pierre Daille, minister of the 
French church formed by 
the Pluguenots who came to 
Boston after the revocation 
of the Edict of Nantes; 
Edward Rawson, secretary of 
the Colony; Josiah Willard, 




^? 




GRANARY BURYING GROUND 



27 



secretary of the Province; and John Hull, the "mint master" of 1652. 
General Joseph Warren's tomb was here (the Minot tomb, adjoining 
that of Hancock) from after the obsequies in King's Chapel in 1776 
till 1825. Then his remains were removed to the Warren tomb under 
St. Paul's Church. In 1855 they were again removed, being finally 
deposited in the family vault in Forest Hills Cemetery, Roxbury Dis- 
trict. Wendell Phillips (died 1884) was also temporarily buried here, 
beside the tomb of his father, at the right of the entrance gate. After 
the death of his widow, two years later, his remains were removed to 
Milton and placed by her side. 

The most conspicuous monuments here, all in view from the side- 
walk, are the bowlders marking the tombs of Samuel Adams and 
James Otis, the former near the fence, north of the entrance gate, 
the latter, also near the fence, south of the gate; the monument to 
Benjamin Franklin's parents, in the middle of the yard; and the John 
Hancock monument, in the southwestern corner. The inscriptions on 
the Adams and Otis bowlders give these records : 

Here lies buried 

Samuel Adams 

Signer of the Declaration of Independence 

Governor of this Commonwealth 

A leader of men and an ardent patriot 

Born 1722 Died 1803 



Here lies buried 

James Otis 

Orator arid Patriot of the Revolution 

Famous for his argument 

against Writs of Assistance 

Born 1725 Died 1783 




Adams's grave is in the Checkley tomb, which adjoins the sidewalk ; 
Otis's is in the Cunningham tomb, bearing now the name of George 
Longley. The bowlders were placed by the Massachusetts Society of 
the Sons of the Revolution in 1898, as the inscriptions show. 

The epitaph on the Franklin monument was composed by Franklin, 
and first appeared on a marble stone which he caused to be placed here. 
The granite obelisk was provided by a number of citizens in 1827, when 
the stone had become decayed, and the inscription was reproduced on 
the bronze tablet set in its face : 



28 



GRANARY BURYING GROUND 




Josiah Franklin 

and 

Abiah his wife, 

lie here interred. 

They lived lovingly together in wedlock 

fifty-five years. 

Without any estate, or any gainful employment, 

By constant labor and industry, 

with God's blessing, 
They maintained a large family 

comfortably, 

and brought up thirteen children 

and seven grandchildren 

reputably. 

From this instance, reader, 

Be encouraged to diligence in thy calling 

And distrust not Providence. 

He was a pious and prudent man ; 

She, a discreet and virtuous woman. 

Their youngest son, 

In filial regard to their memory 

Places this stone 

J. F. born 1655, died 1744, JEtat 89. 

A. F. born 1667, died 1752, 85. 

The Hancock monument is a steel shaft, erected in 1895 close by the 
Hancock tomb, set against the wall of one of the buildings which back 
on the yard. It is simply inscribed : 

Obsta Principiis 
This memorial erected 
A.D. MDCCCXCV. By the Com- 
monwealth of Massachv- 
setts to mark the grave of 
John Hancock. 

Near by the Hancock tomb is a dilapidated slate slab with the inscrip- 
tion, " Frank, servant of John Hancock Esq'r, lies interred here, who 
died 23d Jan'ry 1 771, astat 38." 

The graves of the victims of the Boston Massacre are unmarked. For- 
merly a beautiful larch tree grew over the spot. It is said to be twenty feet 
back from the sidewalk fence and sixty feet south of the Tremont Building. 

The grave of Benjamin Woodbridge, the young victim of the duel 
on the Common in 172S, is midway between the gate and Park Street 
Church, near the fence. The inscription on the upright stone informs 
us that he was "a son of the Honourable Dudley Woodbridge Esq'r," 
and "dec'd July ye 3d, in ye 20th year of his age " (see p. 8). 



PARK STREET CHURCH 



29 







Hancock Monument, 
Granary Burying Ground 



One stone that many seek here, and some have seemed to identify, 

is not to be found, if we are to accept the word of an authoritative 

antiquary. This is the tablet marking the 

grave of " Mother Goose." According to 

the late William H. Whitmore, who, in his 

" Genesis of a Boston Myth," marshaled strong 

evidence to sustain his assertion, " Mother 

Goose " was not Elizabeth Vergoose, the 

worthy seventeenth-century matron, as has 

been alleged; nor was "Mother Goose" a 

name that originated in Boston. 

In this yard, as in King's Chapel Burying 

Ground, many of the old stones were years ago 

ruthlessly shifted from the graves to which 

they belonged, which caused the remark of 

Dr. Holmes that " Epitaphs were never famous 

for truth, but the old reproach of ' Here lies ' 

never had such a wholesale illustration as 

in these outraged burial places, where the 

stone does lie above and the bones do not 

lie beneath." 

Park Street Church, with its graceful spire, picturesquely finishing the 

corner of Tremont and Park streets, dates from 1809. It is the best 

example remaining in the city of the early nineteenth-century ecclesias- 
tical architecture. It was designed by an English 
architect, Peter Banner, but the Ionic and Corin- 
thian capitals of the steeple were the 
work of the Bostonian Solomon Willard. 

It was the first Trinitarian church estab- 
lished after the invasion of Unitarianism in 
the Puritan churches, and the fervor with 
which the unadulterated orthodox doctrine 
was preached by its earlier ministers made its 
pulpit famous, and led the unrighteous to 
bestow upon the point which it faces the title 
of " Brimstone Corner." Its history is notable. 
It is marked as the place in which " America " 
was first publicly sung. The hymn was written 
by the Rev. Samuel F. Smith to fit some music 
for Dr. Lowell Mason, music master of Boston, 
and was given for the first time at a children's 
celebration here on July 4, 1832. Here on a preceding 4th of July (1829), 
William Lloyd Garrison, then not yet twenty-four years old, gave his first public 




3° 



PARK STREET CHURCH 



address in Boston against slavery. In 1849 Charles Sumner gave his great 
address on " The War System of Nations," at the annual convention of the 
American Peace Society, which that year began to hold its sessions here. This 
remained the Peace Society's regular place of meet- 
ing for a long period. The patriotic sermons of 
the Civil War preached here by Dr. A. L. Stone 




Park Street Church 

(minister of the church from 1849 to 1866) have 
been called "a part of Boston history." 

This church occupies the site of the town 
granary, a grain house (first set up on the 
Common, opposite, in 1737) from which grain 
was sold to the needy by the town's agents. 
It was from its proximity to the granary that ^ 
the old burying ground got its name. 

Looking up Hamilton Place, opposite Park 
Street Church, we see the side of the old 
Music Hall, now a theater. 
This is a building of pleasant 
memories. It was erected in 
1852, projected chiefly by the 
Harvard Musical Association, 
then the representative of 

classical orchestral music in Boston. Nearly thirty years later (1881) the 
Boston Symphony Orchestra began its career here, under the generous 
patronage of Henry L. Higginson. Once the hall had in its "great 



<g5 




BOSTON COMMON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 31 

organ" one of the largest and finest instruments in the world, but this 
was permitted to be sold and removed at a time when the hall was 
undergoing alterations. For some years, during the latter part of his life, 
Music Hall was Theodore Parke)-' 's pulpit ; and at a later period that of 
W. H. H. Murray, after he had been a pastor of Park Street Church. 

Boston Common and its surroundings. Situated in the heart of the 
city, the Common is unique among municipal public grounds. Its 
existence and preservation are due to the wise forethought of the first 
settlers of the town. 



Its integrity rests primarily on a town order passed in 1640, reserving it as 
open ground, or common field. This was strengthened by a clause in the city 
charter forbidding its 
sale or lease. Subse- 
quent acts prohibit the 
laying out of any high- 
way or street railway 
upon or through it, or 
the taking of any part 
of it for widening or 
altering any street,with- 
out the consent of the 
citizens. 




Beacon Street Mall 



It dates actually 
from 1634, four years 
after the settlement 
of the town, when it was laid out as " a place for a trayning field " and for 
" the feeding of cattell." A training field in part it has remained to the 
present day, and cattle did not cease to graze on it till the thirties of the 
nineteenth century. Originally it was larger than it is now, extending 
to the Tremont Building on Tremont and Beacon streets in one direc- 
tion, and across Tremont Street to West and Mason streets in another. 
The taking from the north end for the Granary Burying Ground in 1660 
was its earliest curtailment. On the west side, where is now Charles 
Street, it at first met the Back Bay, the waters of which came up to 
this line. Its present extent is 48* acres, exclusive of the old burying 
ground on part of its south or Boylston Street side. Its surface has 
been much made over, but without obliterating altogether its old-time 
contour. The broad tree-lined malls which traverse it display the taste 
and large-mindedness of the later town and earlier city fathers. Many 
majestic elms which once embellished the place have been destroyed by 
time and changes. The building of the Subway beneath the Tremont 
Street mall removed the oldest row and some of the finest of them; 



3 2 



BOSTON COMMON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 



but there yet remain numerous stalwart specimens, with other varieties 
of trees, shading and beautifying the several paths. 

Of the monuments here the Army and Navy Monument, the granite 
Doric column of which reaches above the trees, is most conspicuous. 
This occupies the highest elevation in the inclosure, the point where 

the British artillery were stationed during 
the Siege. It is the work of Martin Mil- 
more, and was erected in 1877. The statues 
on the projecting pedestals of the plinth 
represent the Soldier, the Sailor, the Muse 
of History, and Peace. The bas-reliefs 
between them depict The Departure of 
the Regiment, The Sanitary Commission, 
The Achievements of the Navy, and The 
Return from the War and Surrender of 
the Battle Flags to the Governor. The 
figures on these bas-reliefs are mostly por- 
traits of soldiers or citizens prominent in 
the Civil War period. The sculptured 
figures at the base of the shaft typify 
the North, South, East, and West. The 
crowning statue represents the " Genius of 
America." The monument bears this 
inscription, written by President Eliot of 
Harvard University: To the men of Boston 
who died for their country on land and sea 
in the war which kept the Union whole, 
destroyed slavery and maintained the Con- 
stitution, the grateful city has built this 
monument that their exa?nple may speak to 
com ing generations. 
At the foot of this hill, on the east side, stood the " Great Elm " 
till its fall in a windstorm in 1876, supposed to have been old when the 
town was settled, and a scene of executions in early Colony days, — per- 
haps that of Anne Hibbens for "witchcraft" in 1656. An iron tablet 
marks the spot. On a northerly side path is another elm grown from a 
shoot of it. Not far from the "Great Elm" tradition says the Quakers 
were executed ; but the learned antiquary, M. J. Canavan, fixes their gal- 
lows at the South End. Beneath its branches is supposed to have taken 
place the fatal duel in which young Woodbridge was slain (see p. 7). 

Near by lies the historic " Frog Pond," so called, as the town wits 
have it, because it was never known to harbor a frog. The real frog 




Soldiers' Monument 



PARADE GROUND $3 

pond was the Horse or Cow Pond, a shallow pool where the cows 
slaked their thirst or cooled their legs, which lay in the lowlands about 
the present band stand. The present pond is the survivor of three 
marshy bogs originally within the Common. It was the scene of the 
formal introduction of the public water system in 1848, for which cele- 
bration James Russell Lowell wrote his Ode on Water. 

West of the Frog Pond lies the Parade Ground, which represents, in 
small compass, the original training field of the Colonial trainbands. It 
has been the chief mustering place in war times from Provincial to 
modern days. In 1775, when the Common was the British camp, the 
force for Bunker Hill was arrayed here before crossing the river to 
Charlestown. In the preceding April the detachment that moved on 
Lexington and Concord started from near it, taking boats on the bay. 
Now it is the place where the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Com- 





m -'-^1 





Frog Pond 

pany with great gravity go through their annual time-honored evolu- 
tions, and the boys of the school regiments have their clever May 
trainings. 

The granite shaft with its bronze figure of " Revolution," which stands 
in the green facing Lafayette Mall on the Tremont Street side, com- 
memorates the Boston Massacre of 1770, and is popularly called the 
Crispus Attucks Monument. It is by Robert Kraus, and was erected by 
the State in 1888. The bas-relief on the base reproduces a crude con- 
temporary picture of the scene published in London, together with the 
" Short Narrative" authorized by the town. The inscriptions are these 
words of John Adams and Webster : 

On that night the foundation of American 
Independence was laid. JOHN ADAMS. 

From that moment we may date the sever- 
ance of the British Empire. DANIEL WEBSTER. 

The names of the victims are inscribed on the shaft. 



33 A BOSTON COMMON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 

The classic stone band stand, resembling a Grecian fane, in the field 
west of the mall leading toward Park Square, commemorates the late 
George F. Parkman, an esteemed citizen, by whose wise benefactions 
the Common and other public parks of the city have greatly benefited. 
By Mr. Parkman's will an estate amounting to about five million dollars 
was left to the city of Boston, the income therefrom to be expended ex- 
clusively for the " maintenance and improvement of the Common and 
such parks " as were in existence January 12, 1887 ; no part to be used 
for the purchase of additional land for park purposes. From this fund 
was derived the means for an extensive and costly work of resoiling the 
surface of the Common and invigorating the trees of the inclosure, 
undertaken in 1911-1913. Also from it was met the cost of the estab- 
lishment of the Zoological Garden in Franklin Park, Roxbury District, 
opened in 191 2, designed to occupy from sixty to eighty acres, and 
the Aquarium in the Marine Park, South Boston Point, opened the 
same year (see p. 147). In making this bequest the benefactor ex- 
pressed in his will his hope that " the Boston Common shall never as a 
whole or in part be diverted from its present purpose as a recreation 
ground for the citizens of Boston." From the Parkman Band Stand 
concerts are given regularly on Sunday afternoon, and occasionally on 
other days, throughout the summer and autumn seasons, the perform- 
ances of the band often being supplemented by singing by local singing 
clubs or societies. 

Mr. Parkman's residence, No. 33 Beacon Street, near Joy Street, fac- 
ing the Common, which went to the city with the estate, is utilized as 
headquarters of the park and recreation department of the city govern- 
ment. The bronze tablet on its face fitly marks it with this simple 
inscription : 

Here lived and died 
GEORGE FRANCIS PARKMAN 
1 823-1908 
Remembered with enduring gratitude by 
the City of Boston for his bequest of a 
fund that secures forever the mainte- 
nance and improvement of the Common 
and other public parks 

The inscription cut on the front of the base of the band stand reads 
as simply : 

The Gift of a Generous Benefactor 

to the City of Boston 

GEORGE FRANCIS PARKMAN 

1S23-190S 



PARADE GROUND 33 b 

Mr. Park man belonged to one of the old Boston families, was a native 
of Boston, and lived the most of his adult life in the house overlooking 
the Common. He was a cousin of Francis Parkman the historian. His 
father was Dr. George Parkman of local distinction, and also a man of 
large wealth for his day, who was murdered by Professor John White 
Webster of the Harvard Medical School, at the college building (then 
adjoining the Massachusetts General Hospital), in November, 1849, f° r 
which crime Professor Webster was tried and convicted the following 
March and executed in August. This was the cause celebre of its time, 
recorded in local history as the Parkman-Webster case. Mr. Parkman 
was a graduate of Harvard College, class of 1844, and from the Harvard 
Law School in 1846, and was a lawyer by profession. He, however, never 
practiced, but devoted himself to the management of his own extensive 
real estate and other property interests, inherited and acquired. He was 
a scholarly man and a wide reader, particularly in French and Italian 
literature. Besides his great gift to Boston he made generous bequests 
to the Boston Athenaeum and the Harvard University Library, to con- 
stitute funds for the purchase of books. When he died, in his eighty- 
sixth year, he was one of the oldest members of the Suffolk bar, and 
among the oldest Harvard graduates. 

The mound at the southwest of the music field, higher once than now, 
was the Smokers' Circle of old, to which smokers were obliged to resort 
when tobacco smoking was not permitted elsewhere on the Common, 
and was also forbidden on the streets. For some time after the institu- 
tion of the city in place of the town, in the eighteen twenties, smokers on 
the streets on Sundays and even on week days were arrested and fined; 
and this smokers' retreat on the Common remained as late as 1851. 

The old burying ground was not originally a part of the Common, 
but was included within its limits in 1839, when the Boylston Street Mall 
(now the broad sidewalk on the street) was laid out. In the green, at 
the junction of the Boylston Street walk and the Lafayette Mall, was 
for many years the Deer Park, inclosed by a high wire fence, where con- 
tented families of deer grazed. It was first established in 1863 and flour- 
ished for nearly two decades. In provincial days the town gun house 
was here. The length of the Common's exterior boundary is officially 
given as one mile and one eighth. 

The promenade of Lafayette Mall is the finishing feature of the 
Subway work on this side of the Common. It extends over the Subway 
between Park and Boylston streets, and at Boylston Street joins a 
narrower walk which follows the Subway course on that side to Charles 
Street, passing by the picturesque old Central Burying Ground (estab- 
lished 1756), which has among its graves those of Gilbert Stuart, the 



34 BOSTON COMMON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 

painter, and M. Julien, the restaurateur, whose fame as the introducer 
of Julien soup survived him. While these walks lack the fringes 
of noble English elms which characterized the earlier malls here, 
especially the Tremont Street mall, which once had three magnificent 
rows, they have attractions in the bordering masses of other trees and 
in their openness to the spacious street-ways free from street-car tracks. 

Being in the heart of things Lafayette Mall is an animated thorough- 
fare. Close by is the principal theater quarter of the city. On the 
opposite side of the way are Keith's Theater and the Bijou Dream 
(fronting also on Washington Street) and the Tremont Theater (near 
the site of the second playhouse built in Boston, — the Ilaymarket of 
1796). On Washington Street (next thoroughfare east of Tremont) is 
the Boston Theater, with its rear entrance near the West Street corner 
of Tremont, and a little way above, are the Pastime and Park theaters. 
A few steps farther on, immediately above the Boylston Street corner, are 
located Gordon's Olympia, the Premier, the Globe, the Unique, — vaude- 
ville theaters. On Tremont Street again, just above Boylston, is the 
Majestic Theater, and a short block above this the Shubert Theater, with 
the Wilbur nearly opposite, at the corner of Dix Place. On Hollis 
Street, off Tremont, is the Hollis Street Theater (its house including 
the brick walls of the third Hollis Street Church, dating from 1S0S, the 
pulpit of John Pierpont and Thomas Starr King, and the successor of 
the earlier Hollis Street Church of Mather Byles, the "Tory, wit, and 
scholar," used, nevertheless, by the British for barracks during the 
Siege). On Boylston Street, opposite the Boylston Street walk, is the 
Colonial Theater (on the site of the first Boston Public Library building). 
On Park Square is the Cort Theater. 

In the same neighborhood is a notable group of hotels, including the 
Touraine on Tremont and Boylston streets (occupying the site of the 
mansion house of President John Quincy Adams, birthplace of Charles 
Francis Adams, Sr.), the Brewster on Boylston Street, the Adams on 
Washington Street (covering the site of the eighteenth-century Lamb 
Tavern, an early stagecoach starting place) ; next this, Clark's ; on Park 
Square, the Georgian ; on Boylston Street, opposite the Public Garden, 
the Thorndike. On Washington Street, opposite the opening of Boyls- 
ton Street, is a revolutionary landmark, — the site of the Liberty Tree, 
the rallying place of the Sons of Liberty in the prerevolutionary period, 
where the effigies were hung in the Stamp Act excitement. The busi- 
ness building that now covers the spot displays on its front an old tablet 
with a representation of a tree and beneath, these lines : 

Sons of Liberty, 1 766 
Independence of their country, 1776. 



BOSTON SUBWAY 



35 



The adjacent hotel, popularly known as " Brigham's," stands in place 
of the Liberty Tree Tavern, where the Liberty men refreshed them- 
selves after their meetings at the tree. "Brigham's" was originally the 
Lafayette Hotel, erected to mark the historical spot in season for the 
great welcome to Lafayette on the Frenchman's memorable last visit to 
the country in 1824; and so was named in his honor. It was in com- 
memoration of this visit, very much later, — three quarters of a century 
af terward, — that Lafayette Mall received its name. 

The selection is based on a pretty incident of that visit. On the reception 
day the school children were lined up along Tremont Street mall, and, as 
Lafayette was passing in the procession, they cast bouquets in his path so that 
his progress was upon a carpet of natural flowers. 

Midway up Boylston Street between Washington and Tremont 
streets is the building of the Young Men's Christian Union (instituted 
1 851) with its stone clock tower. 
On the Tremont Street corner 
facing the Lafayette Mall is the 
white granite Masonic Temple (the 
second on this site, built in 1S98- 
1899), headquarters of the Grand 
Lodge of Massachusetts, and 
housing thirteen lodges. 

Occupying the streets east of the 
mall is the heart of the retail shop- 
ping quarter. Below the Temple 
Place corner, hedged in by great 
stores, is St. Paul's Cathedral. 
This was originally St. Paul's 
Church, the fourth Episcopal 
church in Boston, dating from 1820. The Grecian-like temple is of gray 
granite, the hexastyle porticoes of Potomac sandstone. Solomon Willard 
carved the Ionic capitals; Alexander Parris designed the whole. The 
pediment is bare, the original design of a bas-relief of Paul preaching 
at Athens never having been carried out. It was in one of the tombs 
beneath this church that General Joseph Warren's remains rested for 
thirty years. In another, Prescott the historian was buried. 

At the head of the Park Street mall are the Park Street entrance 
and exit stations of the Boston Subway. The upper west side building 
is the entrance for w r est- and south-bound surface cars ; the upper east 
building is an exit only ; the lower east building, an entrance for north- 
bound surface cars (North Station and Charlestown) ; and the lower 




Milk Station, Washington Street 
Tunnel 



36 



BOSTON SUBWAY 



North StaiioW^O^OR™ STATION 

■-N-'/ 



HAYMARKET SQ 



west building, entrance and exit for west- and south-bound cars. Above 
the stairways of the Park Street entrance a bronze tablet, placed in com- 
memoration of the initial opening of the Subway in 1897, gives the fol- 
lowing data: This Subway authorized by the Legislatures 0/1893 an d 
1S94. Hon. Nathan Matthews, Jr., Mayor of the City of Boston. Built by 
the Boston Transit Commission. Howard Adams Carson, chief engineer. 

Begun at the Public Gar- 
Jen, 2S March, i8<pj, was 
opened to this point for 
public travel 1 September, 
jSgy. The work was com- 
pleted throughout and 
the entire Subway opened 
September 3, 1S9S. Its 
length is about one and 
two- thirds miles. Its 
course is shown by the 
accompanying map. 

The upper Park Street 
stations are also entrances 
and exits to and from the 
Cambridge Subway, which 
runs under Beacon Hill, 
across the Cambridge 
Bridge, and underground 
to Harvard Square. Other 
entrances and exits from 
and to Tremont Street are 
through the structures on 
Tremont Street above and 
Subway Route below Winter Street. 

The Boston Subway is owned by the city and leased to the Boston Elevated 
Railway Company for a term of years, at an annual compensation of " 4| per 
cent of the net cost of the work.'' 

The elevated trains use the Washington Street Tunnel, between which 
and the Subway passengers transfer at the Friend station. The 
Tunnel, connected with the Elevated system, passes under Washing- 
ton Street, and, including inclines, is 1.2 miles in length. The names 
of the stations, which are attractively finished in tiling, are given in order 
of direction of traffic : south-bound — Friend, Milk, Winter, Boylston ; 
north-bound — Essex, Summer, State, Union. Each platform is three 




South Station I I 



WASHINGTON STREET TUNNEL 



37 



hundred and fifty feet in length and will accommodate an eight-car train. 
This Tunnel was opened to the public November 30, 1908. In the State 
station is placed a bronze tablet bearing this inscription : Washington 
Street Tunnel, authorized by the Legislature, igo2. W. Murray Crane, 
Governor; Patrick A. Collins, Mayor of Boston. Opened A r ovember 30, 
iqo8. Built by the Boston Transit Commission [names of the commis- 
sion]. Howard A. Carson, Chief Engineer. 

This Tunnel, like the Subway, is 
owned by the city and leased to the 
Boston Elevated Railway Company. 
The lease runs for twenty-five years, 
from the beginning of the use of the 
Tunnel, at an annual rental "equal to 
4% per cent of the net cost." 

At the head of the Beacon 
Street Mall, opposite the State 
House, is the Colonel Robert Gould 
Shaw Memorial, facing Beacon 
Street, between tw r o majestic elms, 
the most imposing piece of out- 
door sculpture in the city. Colonel 
Shaw was the commander of the 
Fifty-fourth Regiment of Massa- 
chusetts Infantry, composed of 
colored troops, in the Civil War, 
and was killed at the head of his 
command while leading the assault 
on Fort Wagner, July 18, 1863; 
and the monument commemorates 
the colored soldiers in that event 
as well as their leader. It consists 
of a statue of Colonel Shaw 
mounted, with his men pressing 

close beside him, in high relief upon a large bronze tablet. The sculptor 
was Augustus St. Gaudens, and the architect of the elaborate stone 
frame was Charles F. McKim. The inscriptions are unusually extensive 
and interesting, including verses of James Russell Lowell and Emerson, 
and a memorial by ex-President Eliot of Harvard. 

The monument was erected and dedicated in 1897. Its cost was met 
from a fund raised by voluntary subscriptions. 

On the opposite side of Beacon Street, just below Hancock Avenue, 




Elevated and Tunnel Routes 



3* 



JOHN HANCOCK HOUSE 



— the walk along the west side of the State House grounds, — is the site 
of a long-cherished landmark that should have been preserved : the man- 
sion house of Hancock. It is marked by a modest bronze tablet set in the 
low iron fence in front of the brownstone building, the present publishing 
house of Messrs. Ginn and Company, which now occupies the spot : Here 
stood the residence of John Hancock, a prominent and patriotic Merchant 
of Boston, the first Signer of the Declaration of American Independence, 
and durst Governor of Massachusetts, under the State Constitution. 

At the time of its demolition the mansion, besides being of exceptional 
historic value, was a rare type of our provincial domestic architecture, 
and was well fitted by situation and character for preservation as the 

official dwelling of the 
governors of the Com- 
monwealth, as was 
proposed some years 
before. The main struc- 
ture was then nearly as 
in Governor Hancock's 
day, when it was called 
the " seat of his Excel- 
lency the Governor," 
and it contained much 
of the furnishings and 
appointments of his 
time, with the family 
portraits by Copley and 
Smibert. A measure for 
its purchase by the state 
for the governor's house was reported to the Legislature in 1859 by an 
influential committee; but the project failed. At length, in February, 
1863, the land which it occupied was sold. For a while thereafter it 
served as a museum of historical relics, and then, a scheme for its 
removal and reerection elsewhere failing, it was pulled down. Souvenirs 
of it were eagerly sought as it fell. The knocker on the front door was 
given to Dr. Holmes, who placed it on the door of the "old gambrel- 
roofed house " in Cambridge, where it remained till that also was 
demolished. The flight of stone steps which led up to the entrance are 
now in service on Pinebank, Jamaica Park. The purchasers of the 
land, J. M. Beebe and Gardner Brewer, two leading Boston merchants, 
erected the present stately double house here for their occupancy. 
Messrs. Ginn & Company became established in No. 29 in 1901, and 
their business offices fully occupy the spacious interior. 




Shaw Monument 



JOHN HANCOCK HOUSE 



39 



The old mansion was of Quincy granite obtained from the surface, as in the 
case of King's Chapel, squared and well hammered. The principal features of 
the facade were the broad front door at the head of a flight of stone steps, gar- 
nished with pillars and an ornamental door head ; and the ornamented central 
window over it. The high gambrel roof with dormer windows showed a carved 
balcony railing inclosing its upper portion. The interior comprised a nobly 
paneled hall, having a broad staircase with carved and twisted balusters, which 
divided the house in the middle and extended through on both stories from 
front to rear. On the landing, part way up the staircase, was a circular-headed 
window looking out upon the garden, with a broad and capacious window seat. 
On the entrance floor, at the right of the hall, was the great dining-room, seven- 
teen by twenty-five feet, also elaborately paneled from floor to ceiling. Until the 
widening of Beacon Street the house stood well back from the street on ground 
elevated above it. The approach was then through a " neat garden bordered 
with small trees " and shrubbery. The mansion then, also, had two large wings, 
one on the east side containing a great 
ballroom, the other on the west side 
appropriated to the kitchen and other 
domestic offices. Beyond the west 
wing was the coach house, and adjoin- 
ing that the stable. 

Behind the mansion were the gar- 
dens and fruit-tree nurseries, extend- 
ing up the side of the then existing 
peak of Beacon Hill where the State 
House Annex stands. The mansion 
with the estate came to John Hancock 
in 1777, upon the death of Lydia 
Hancock, widow of his uncle, Thomas 
Hancock, who built the house. The 
estate then included the territory occupied by the State House, and extended 
along Beacon Street to Joy Street. During the Siege Lord Percy occupied the 
mansion for some time. 

Let us now step back to the opposite side of Beacon Street a 
moment and take a sweeping survey of the fine line of Beacon Street 
houses down the hill. Standing by the Joy Street steps to the Com- 
mon, which lead to the head of Holmes's " Long Path " (the mall running 

southward across the Common's length to Boylston Street, the scene 

of the crisis in the "Autocrat's" courtship of the schoolmistress), we 
have the best point of view. Looking westward at the lower corner 
of Walnut Street, the next opening below Joy Street, we see the 
house in which "Wendell Phillips was born. Lower down is the Somer- 
set Club, — the stone double-swell-front house originally the " David 
Sears mansion," — by the site of the house in which John Singleton Copley 
lived when painting his remarkable Boston portraits. Still farther 




The 

John Hancock House] 



737 -i86j 



4° 



STATE HOUSE 



down, below the next side opening, we catch a glimpse of the 
painted brick "swell" of the Prescott house (No. 55), the home of the 
historian William H. Prescott through the last fourteen years of 
his life. At the corner above is housed the Puritan Club, dating from 1 884, 
From the State House to the Old South. The front of the State 
House, with its terraced lawn, occupies the cow pasture of the Han- 
cock estate, comprising about two acres, which the town purchased of 
John Hancock's heirs for four thousand dollars and conveyed to the 
Commonwealth. This is the historic " Bulfinch Front," designed by 
Charles Bulfinch and erected in 1 795—1 797- It alone constituted the 

Massachusetts State 
House for more than 
half a century. Then 
a new part, extend- 
ing back upon Mt. 
Vernon Street, was 
added (1853-1856), 
which came to be 
called the " Bryant 
Addition," from its 
principal architect, 
J. G. F. Bryant; and 
finally the "State 
House Annex " was 
erected (1889-1S95; 
Charles E. Brigham, 
architect), extending 
back from the Bryant 
Addition, with the 
archway over Mt. 
Vernon Street, to 
Derne Street, in ex- 
terior design and 
ornamentation harmonizing with the Bulfinch Front. Standing on the 
highest point of land in the city proper, the yellow dome of the Bulfinch 
Front (the " Gilded Dome " since 1874, when gilt was first applied to it) 
is a familiar landmark in every direction by day, while at night, lighted 
up by encircling rows of electric lights, it is a glistening beacon visible 
for many miles. 

Till 181 1 the main peak of Beacon Hill rose directly behind the 
Bulfinch Front, a grassy cone-shaped mound about as high as the 
dome. On its broad, flat summit the Beacon was set up as early as 




DORIC HALL 4 1 

1634, from which the name of the entire hill came, it having earlier 
been called Centry Hill, from a lookout established here. 

The Beacon was to warn the country on occasions of danger. It consisted of 
an iron skillet filled with combustibles for firing, suspended from an iron crane 
at the top of a high mast, with treenails in it for its ascent. This and its suc- 
cessors stood for more than a century and a half, but it never seems to have been 
fired for alarm. During the Siege the British pulled the Beacon down and erected 
a fort in its stead. It was reelected after the Evacuation and stood till 1789, when 
it was blown down in a gale. 

After the Revolution the first Independence monument in the country was 
set up on this sightly peak (1790-1791), — a plain Doric column of brick 
covered with stucco, on a base of stone, and topped with a gilded wooden 
eagle supporting the American arms, — the work of Bulfinch, now repro- 
duced in stone and standing in the State House Park on the east side of 
the long building. When the peak was cut down (in 1811-1823, its earth 
going principally to fill the North Cove which became the Mill Pond, 
now in small part covered by Haymarket Square) this monument was 
destroyed, only the inscribed tablets and the eagle being reserved. The 
tablets are inserted in the base of the present monument. A wooden effigy 
of the eagle is now over the President's chair in the Senate Chamber. 

The main approach to the State House, up the long sweep of broad 
stone steps from Beacon Street, leads to the spacious porch from 
which opens Doric Hall, the main hall of the Bulfinch Front. The 
bronze statues on the terrace lawn are : on the right as we ascend, 
Daniel Webster, by Hiram Powers, erected in 1S59 by the Webster 
Memorial Committee; on the left, Horace Mann, by Emma Stebbins, 
erected in 1S65, a gift from school children and teachers of the state, 
who gave the fund for its execution in recognition of Horace Mann's 
service in developing the system of popular education in Massachusetts. 

In Doric Hall we see the statue of Washington in marble, by Sir Fran- 
cis Chantrey, given to the state in 1827 by the Washington Monument 
Association ; and the marble statue of John A. Andrew, the " war gov- 
ernor," by Thomas Ball, erected in 1871, the cost being met from a 
surplus of $10,000 remaining from the fund subscribed for the statue 
of Edward Everett in Edward Everett Square. Set in a side wall near 
these statues are two memorials of the Washington family, — fac- 
similes of the tombstones of the ancestors of Washington, from the 
parish church of Brington, Northamptonshire, England, given to the 
state by Charles Sumner in 1861, to whom they were presented by Earl 
Spencer. Against the walls on either side of the Washington statue 
are tablets to the memory of Charles Bulfinch, and commemorating 
the "preservation and renewal of the Massachusetts State House." 



42 STATE HOUSE 

On the side walls are portraits of sixteen governors of Massachusetts. 
Four brass cannon are placed against the wall, two of them consecrat- 
ing the names of Major John Buttrick and Captain Isaac Davis, heroes 
of the fight at Concord Bridge, April 19, 1775; the other two, cannon 
captured in the War of 1812. 

From Doric Hall we enter the passageway leading into the "Grand 
Staircase Hall," and from the latter pass into "Memorial Hall," the 
crowning feature of this floor. In the passageway a large bronze case 
contains the colors carried by Massachusetts soldiers in the Spanish 
War and returned to the custody of the Commonwealth. They were 
deposited here July 31, 1901. The skylight in the ceiling here, it will 
be observed, is decorated with a representation of Liberty surrounded 
by the names of various republics. 

The Grand Staircase Hall is an effective piece of marble work. The 
paintings on the north wall represent " Paul Revere's Ride," " James 
Otis Making his Famous Argument Against the Writs of Assistance in 
the Old Town House in Boston, in February, 1761," and " The Boston 
Tea Party," all by Robert Reid. The staircases here are of Pavonazzo 
marble. The balcony formed by the third-floor corridor is surmounted 
by twelve Ionic columns. Its windows at the south are emblematic of 
Commerce, Education, Fisheries, and Agriculture. At the head of the 
stairs are the seal of the colony, 1628-1684, and the seal of the state 
carved in marble. Upon the pillars of the entrance to Memorial Hall 
are bronze reliefs of Major General Thomas G. Stevenson (by Bela L. 
Pratt), and Rear Admiral John A. Winslow (by William Couper). 

The marble Memorial Hall in circular form rises to a dome with bronze 
cornice environed by the eagles of the Republic, the crest of the Com- 
monwealth appearing above, in cathedral glass, surrounded by the seals 
of the other twelve original states. The gallery is supported by six- 
teen pillars of Sienna marble. The four ni hes with glass fronts 
contain the battle flags carried by the Massachusetts Volunteers in 
the Civil War, and in each niche is a framed extract from the address 
of Governor Andrew upon receiving them (all but a few which were 
returned later) on Forefathers' Day, December 22, 1S65. The bronze 
statue is of Major General William F. Bartlett, by Daniel C. French, 
placed in 1904. The large paintings on the walls are : north wall, " The 
Pilgrims on the Mayflower" \ south wall, "John Eliot Preaching to the 
Indians," — both by Henry Oliver Walker; west wall, " Concord Bridge, 
April 19, 1775 " : east wa N> " The Return of the Colors to the Custody of 
the Commonwealth, December 22, 1865," — both by Edward Simmons. 

Beyond Memorial Hall the main staircase leads to the floor upon 
which is Representatives Hall. This chamber is finished in white 



STATE LIBRARY 



43 









mahogany, with paneled walls. The coved ceiling is embellished with 
frescoes by Frank Hill Smith. The historic codfish is suspended oppo- 
site the Speaker's desk, between the central columns (see p. 9). In the 
lobby the statue of Governor Roger Wolcott (placed 1907) is by 
Daniel C. French. On the east side are the rooms of the Secretary 
of the Commonwealth, in which are to be seen precious documents 
incased in asbestos boxes, — the Colony Charter of 1628, the Prov- 
ince Charter of 1692, the Explanatory Charter of George II, and the 
original Constitution of the Commonwealth, with an attested copy 
made in 1S94, the original having become in part illegible. In the 
archives, on the fourth floor, belonging to this department are, with 
much other valuable historical material, the military records of the 
Narragansett War, of 
the French and Indian 
Wars, and the muster 
and pay rolls of the 
Revolution, the original 
depositions and exam- 
inations of persons 
accused of witchcraft, 
and manuscript papers 
of the Revolution. 

In the State Library, 
at the north end of the 
building, is to be seen 
in a glass-covered case 
the famous Bradford 
Manuscript, the " His- 
tory of Plimoth Plantation" by Governor William Bradford, popularly 
but erroneously called the Log of the Mayflower. This is the volume 
which after various adventures found lodgment in the Library of the 
Bishop of London's Palace at Fulham, and was returned to the Com- 
monwealth by the Bishop of London through the efforts of Senator 
Hoar of Massachusetts and the Hon. Thomas F. Bayard, ambassa- 
dor at the Court of St. James. It was received in behalf of the Com- 
monwealth by Governor Wolcott, May 26, 1897. The State Library 
contains 125,000 volumes. Charles F. D. Belden is the librarian. 

The Executive Department and the quarters of the Senate are in 
the Bulfinch Front. The Council Chamber, fashioned in the Corinthian 
order, has the old ornamentations designed by Bulfinch. In the Gover- 
nor's Rooms are several portraits of note. In the Senate Chamber, occu- 
pying niches, are busts of Washington, Franklin, Lafayette, Lincoln, and 




Reikesentatives Hall — The Historic Codfish 



44 STATE HOUSE PARK 

distinguished Massachusetts men. The gilded eagle above the Presi- 
dent's chair, with the national and State flags, holds in its beak a large 
scroll inscribed, " God Save the Commonwealth of Massachusetts." In 
the Senate Reception Room are numerous interesting relics. Among 
them are the first king's arms captured from the British, at Lexington, 
on the 19th of April, 1775, and the fowling piece used that morning by 
Captain John Parker, the commander of the minutemen there, — both 
gifts to the State from his distinguished grandson, Theodore Parker, 
the preacher and reformer. There are also a Hessian hat, sword, gun. 
and drum captured at the battle of Bennington, August 16, 1777, which 
were presented to the State by Brigadier General John Stark. On the 
walls are portraits of twenty-two governors, including an original portrait 
of John Winthfop. 

The State House Park, on the east side of the long building, is a spread- 
ing lawn fringed with young trees, shrubs, and flowers, space for which 
was obtained by discontinuing two or three fine old streets and remov- 
ing the well-favored dwellings that faced upon them. Beneath a con- 
siderable part of it are great coal bunkers for the large supply of coal 
required for the State House. The reproduced Bui finch Monument in 
stone occupies as near as may be the position of the original one. It 
is an exact copy of that in dimensions, and the eagle at its top follows 
the original drawing of Bulfinch's bird. The inscription on the bronze 
tablet in the base gives this concise chapter of history : /// 1634 the 
General Court caused a Beacon to be placed on the top of this hill. In 
Jjgo a brick and stone monument designed by diaries Bulfinch replaced 
the Beacon, but was removed in 1S11 when the hill was cut down. It is 
now reproduced in stone by the Bunker Hill Monument Association. i8g8. 
The old tablets of the Bulfinch monument are set higher in the base. 

The statues in the lawns near by are of Major General Nathaniel P. 
Banks (Governor, Congressman), by H. H. Kitson, placed 1908 ; and of 
Major General Charles Devens (United States Marshal, United States 
Attorney-General, and Justice of the Supreme Judicial Court of Massa- 
chusetts), by Olin L. Warner, placed 1S98. The equestrian statue on 
the Beacon Street side of the park, set in the broad walk, is of Major 
General Joseph Hooker, the figure by Daniel C. French, the horse by 
Edward C. Potter. This was erected in 1903. 

We reenter Beacon Street by the arched way from this walk, opposite 
the head of Park Street. Down Park Street we see, facing the Common, 
a line of buildings, mostly dwellings reconstructed for business purposes, 
several of which are interesting landmarks. The upper one at the 
Beacon Street corner was, in part (that part fronting on Park Street, a 
portion of the old iron-railed entrance steps remaining), the home of 



BEACON STREET 



45 




George Ticknor, the historian (" History of Spanish Literature "). The 
larger building below is the house of the Union Club, established (1863) 
during the Civil War, primarily as a political club in support of the 
Union cause. Edward Everett was its first president. It occupies 
in part the residence of Abbott Lawrence, a foremost Boston mer- 
chant in his time. In No. 6 are the quarters of the Mayflower Club, of 
women. Below is Goodspeed's snug book shop. At No. 4 is the pub- 
lishing house of the Houghton Mifflin Company, occupying the old 
Quincy mansion house, the winter home of the elder Josiah Quincy 
(whose statue we shall pres- 
ently see) through the last 
seven years of his long, 
eventful, and useful life of 
nearly ninety-two years. 

Now turning our steps 
down Beacon Street east- 
ward, we pass in close 
neighborhood the Unitarian 
Building, at the comer of 
Bowdoin Street; directly 
opposite, the Congregational 
House ; and next to this the 
Boston Athenaeum. 

The Unitarian Building, a low, Moorish-like structure of brownstone 
(built 1SS5-1SS6), is the headquarters of the American Unitarian Asso- 
ciation, and the general denominational house, where are the offices of 
various organizations, national, state, and local. Channing Hall here, 
and neighboring rooms, are embellished with portraits and busts of 
Unitarian leaders. The Congregational House, a building of stone and 
brick, ornamented with sculptured tablets (built 1897-189S), is the head- 
quarters of the Congregational Trinitarian denomination. The emblem- 
atic sculptures on the facade represent respectively, from east to 
west : Law, depicting the Signing of the Compact in the cabin of the 
Mayflower, November 21, 1620; Religion, the observance of Sunday 
on Clark's Island on the day before the landing at Plymouth ; Educa- 
tion, the act of the General Court of Massachusetts passed October 28, 
1636, appropriating money for a " schoole or colledge" ; and Philan- 
thropy, the preaching of the apostle Eliot to the Indians at Waban's 
wigwam on old Nonantum Hill, Newton, October, 1646. In this 
building are established the Congregational Library and the Missionary 
Library of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, 
with the remarkable Pratt Collection, in the Bible Room, embracing 



From an Old Print of Boston Common 



4 6 



BOSTON ATHENAEUM 



Hebrew rolls, various editions of the Scriptures, palm books, biblical 
and other charts, relics, and antiquities. The head offices ot the 
American Board are here. Pilgrim Hall is in the rear from the main 
entrance. 

The Boston Athenaeum, presenting a classic front of brown freestone, 
in marked contrast with its lofty neighbors, dates from 1849. The 
literary institution for which it was erected dates back to 1807. This 
had its origin in the Monthly Anthology, a magazine first published 
in 1803, of which the Rev. William Emerson, 
father of Ralph Waldo Emerson, was the prin- 
cipal editor. The persons who became interested 
in that "journal of polite literature" — a remark- 
able set of cultivated young men — formed the 
•• Anthology Club," and collected a library, which 
was incorporated in 1807 as the Boston Athe- 
naeum. Quarters were first found in Congress 
Street, then in a Pearl Street mansion house 



■ j I. ? I'O 

'■.^jeii.Y- presented to the institution (1821), and later this 





\ "iq 






building was built by the corporation. For many 

years the Athenaeum had in connection with its 

' Z~~- "' ■ library a valuable art gallery, but the best paint- 

. ;jT ''^'■y.,Zl\f. ;:•- ings of its collection have been transferred to 

5j|||P™^|&"- tne Museum of Fine Arts, Back Bay. It now 

possesses over 240,000 volumes, many of them 

rare; a large collection of Braun photographs 

and art works; files of early newspapers; the 

Bemis collection of works on international law, 

including state papers, etc., for the increase of 

which there is a substantial fund ; one of the very best sets of United 

States documents in the country ; the best collection in existence of 

books published in the South during the Civil War; and a large part 

of George Washington's private library, with many works relating to 

the first President. The Stuart portrait of Washington now at the 

Art Museum is owned by the Athenaeum. 

The Athenaeum became early a center of the new literary and artistic life which 
was to make Boston famous in Emerson's time. From it came, more or less 
directly, the old and scholarly North American Review ; and most of the literary 
societies and libraries of to-day in Boston owe their origin entirely or in part to 
the influence of the Athenaeum and its founders. The institution is managed by 
trustees elected by its 1049 shareholders, known as "proprietors." The income 
is derived from invested funds and from an annual assessment upon each share 
in use. Some famous men of New England have been among the proprietors of 



BOSTON UNIVERSITY SCHOOL OF LAW 47 

the Athenaeum, including Daniel Webster, Charles Sumner, Holmes, Parkman, 
and Prescott. William F. Poole, who originated Poole's Index, was at one time 
its librarian. Arthur Theodore Lyman is the present president, and Charles 
Knowles Bolton is the librarian. 

The Hotel Bellevue attractively faces the Athenaeum. 

The old-fashioned "Boston swell fronts" at the upper corner of 
Somerset Street constitute the clubhouse of the Boston City Club, a 
notable Boston institution, organized in 1904 by citizens "interested in 
the city of Boston and the problems of its growth." The club has an 
imposing membership (1913) of forty-five hundred, much the largest 
social and business club in the city and unique in its class. 

In Somerset Street, next the clubhouse, is the house of the Boston 
lodge of the Order of Elks, formerly the general building of Boston 
University (see p. 81). Next above, and facing on Ashburton Place, is 
the new Boston City Clubhouse, erected by that organization. When 
completed, in 1914, it will rank with the largest and most thoroughly 
equipped modern clubhouses. Opposite, on Ashburton Place, is the 
building of the New England Historic Genealogical Society (founded 1844, 
incorporated 1845), successor of the earlier house of this institution at 
No. iS Somerset Street (now occupied by the School for Social Workers 
and the Social Service Library). The society has a valuable library of 
more than 50,000 volumes and over 100,000 pamphlets, comprising the 
best known collection of genealogical works, biographies, and histories, 
American and English. Many visitors, students in genealogy and com- 
pilers, make daily use of this extensive collection. The society also 
possesses numerous rare manuscripts and historical relics. It publishes 
the "New England Historical and Genealogical Register" (established 

1847). 

The granite-faced building next above (originally the Mt. Vernon 
Church) is the Boston University School of Law. Next this, the upper 
end of Ashburton Place is impressively finished by the Daniel Sharp Ford 
Hall, erected as Baptist headquarters. This building was provided for 
under the provisions of Mr. Ford's will, as a tablet in the vestibule 
records. Mr. Ford was long owner of the " Youth's Companion." 

On Beacon Street again, the modern office building occupying the 
corner of Tremont Place covers the site of a row of pleasant houses 
which slowly changed from dwellings to business places. The corner 
one was the sometime home of Nathan Hale, where Edzuard Everett 
Hale passed his boyhood when he was attending the Latin School. 
The end one in the row was latterly the publishing house of Ginn 
and Company, from which they removed to the Hancock-house site, 
29 Beacon Street. 



4 8 



FIRST SCHOOLHOUSE 



Crossing crowded Tremont Street we enter more crowded School 
Street, one of the most traveled and one of the shortest thoroughfares 
in the city. Just below King's Chapel we are at the site of the first 
schoolhouse of the first public school, which is continued in the present 
Public Latin School, now at the South End (Warren Avenue, Dartmouth 
and Montgomery streets). A bronze tablet set on the first stone post 
of the fence in front of the City Hall is inscribed with its story : On 
this spot stood the First House erected for the use of the Boston Public Latin 
School. This school has been constantly maintained since it was estab- 
lished by the following vote of 
the town : At a meeting upon 
public notice it was generally 
agreed that our brother Phile- 
moti Pormout shall be en- 
treated to becotne schoolmaster 
for the teaching and nurtur- 
ing of children zuith us. April 

'3> '635- 

This schoolhouse stood 
where the chancel and pulpit 
of King's Chapel are now. It 
gave the street its name. 

It was built in 1645 (previous 
to which the school was held in 
the master's house), and remained 
on this spot for upward of a cen- 
tury. Then in 1 748 another build- 
ing was erected on the opposite 
side where is now the Parker 
House. The present is the fifth 
building of the school. In the long roll of Latin School pupils appear the names 
of Franklin, Hancock, Samuel Adams, and Robert Treat Paine; Cotton Mather, 
Henry Ward Beecher, James Freeman Clarke, Edward Everett Hale, and Phillips 
Brooks; Ralph Waldo Emerson, John Lothrop Motley, and Francis Parkman ; 
Presidents Leverett, Langdon. Everett, and Eliot of Harvard College ; Charles 
Francis Adams, Sr., Charles Sumner, and William M. Evarts. 




Boston' City Hall 



The heavy granite City Hall (built 1 862-1 865), of elaborate design, 
calls only for a passing glance. It succeeded a Bulfinch building on 
the same site, — a Court House (predecessor of the present "Old Court 
House "), refitted for a City Hall. The bronze statues in the yard are 
more interesting. That of Benjamin Franklin was the first portrait 
statue set up in Boston (1856). It is the work of Richard Greenough. 



CITY HALL 



49 



The fund for its erection was raised by popular subscription. The four 
bronze medallions in the sunken panels of the pedestal represent as 
many periods in Franklin's career. 

The other statue, of Josiah Quincy, is by Thomas Ball, and was 
placed in 1879. ^ represents the elder Quincy as he appeared in mid- 
dle life when mayor of Boston. The base is a block of Quincy granite. 
A marble statue by William 
W. Story, in Memorial Hall 
at Cambridge, represents 
Quincy in later life, or when 
president of the college. 

We may stop a moment at 
the building next beyond the 
foot passage by the side of 
the City Hall (another court 
dignified with the term of 
avenue), and observe the in- 
scribed fire-back set in its vesti- 
bule wall. The inscription 
relates that on this site from 
178510 181 5 was the dwelling 
of Dr. John Warren (brother 
of Joseph Warren, killed at 
Bunker Hill), who was the 
first professor of anatomy 
and surgery in Harvard Uni- 
versity. The fire-back came 
from the old house. 

At the end of School Street the ancient building long known as the 
"Old Corner Bookstore" lingers a weathered old relic of the past in 
one of the busiest quarters, although the booksellers finally left it in 
1903. It dates from 1712. It had been a book stand since 1828. Its 
interest lies particularly in its literary associations, for in what is regarded 
now as the golden age of Boston literary activity — about the middle 
and third quarter of the nineteenth century — it was the chief literary 
lounge and calling place of the city. This was especially the character- 
istic of the "Old Comer" during the long years of its occupancy by 
Ticknor & Fields and their immediate successors. 

The " Curtained Corner " of James T. Fields in the back part of the old book- 
shop has been much discoursed upon. George William Curtis in the "Easy 
Chair " called it " the exchange of wit, the Rialto of current good things, the hub 
of the hub. It was a very remarkable group of men, — indeed it was the first 




Old Corner Bookstore 



5° 



OLD SOUTH MKETINGHOUSE 



group of really great American authors which familiarly frequented the corner 
as guests of Fields." 



Previous to this building there was here the Hutchinson Homestead, 
where lived that colonial dame, Anne Hutchinson, strong of mind and 
keen of wit, one of John Cotton's old Boston-in- 
England parishioners, who became the central figure 
in the violent antinomian controversy which tore the 
Colony in 1637- 1638, and who was finally banished 
for heresy. In her little home here she instituted the 
weekly gathering of women to discuss the Sunday 
sermon after the fashion of the men, and so she is 
credited with having set up the first woman's club in 
America. 

The Old South Building opposite, the monumental 
business structure of stone and steel spreading 
between Spring Lane and around the Old South 
Meetinghouse to Milk Street, covers near its south- 
east end the site of Winthrop's second mansion 
(where he died), which was afterward and until the 
Revolution the parsonage house of the Old South, 
and which the British demolished together with the 
shading row of butternut trees before it, using them 
for firewood during the Siege. The tall walls of the 
ornate building close against the plain brick meet- 
inghouse, and reaching above its tower, dwarf the 
historic structure, but add to its uniqueness. By the 
faithful restoration of the exterior to the appearance 
it bore in provincial days, the outward aspect of the 
venerated building and its historic value have been 
much enhanced. 

The Old South is now a loan museum of Revo- 
lutionary and other relics, colonial furniture, and 
Old South Church portraits, open to the public for a modest fee, which 
goes to meet the cost of its maintenance. The 
interior is also restored as far as possible to the aspect which it bore 
in the prerevolutionary period, when it was the scene of those great 
town meetings, too large for the old Faneuil Hall, which "kindled the 
flame that fired the Revolution," and in commemoration of which 
the meetinghouse came to be called the " Sanctuary of Freedom." 
The tablet on the tower, placed in 1867, is inscribed with these historic 
dates : 




OLD SOUTH MEETINGHOUSE 51 

Old South 

Church gathered 1669 

First House built 1670 

This House erected 1729 

Desecrated by British troops 1775-6 

The preservation of the meetinghouse is directly due to the efforts 
of an organization of twenty-five Boston women, under the title of the 
" Old South Preservation Committee," formed in the centennial year 
of 1876, at a critical juncture, when its demolition was imminent 
through the sale of the property for mercantile purposes. Public 
interest was aroused, " preservation meetings " were held with lectures, 
addresses, and poems by Emerson, Henry Lee, Lowell, Holmes, and 
others ; and finally this organization succeeded — Mrs. Mary Hemenway 
contributing $100,000 — in purchasing the estate subject to certain 
restrictions for $430,000. It is now used for the Old South Lectures 
to Young People, instituted by Mrs. Hemenway to promote among 
American youth a " more serious and intelligent attention to histor- 
ical studies, especially studies in American History," of which Edwin 
D. Mead is the director. 

The town meetings of greatest moment held here were those of June 14 and 
15, 1768, upon the matter of the impressment of Massachusetts men by the com- 
mander of his majesty's ship of war Romney ; the long afternoon and early 
evening meeting of March 6, 1770, the day after the Boston Massacre, which 
brought about the removal of the British regiments from the town ; and the anti- 
tea meetings between November 27 and December 16, 1773, culminating with the 
" Tea Party " and the emptying of the cargoes of the tea ships into the harbor. 
The series of orations commemorative of the Boston Massacre was delivered 
here, Dr. Joseph Warren, three months before he was killed at Bunker Hill, pro- 
nouncing the second one, upon which occasion he was introduced through a window 
in the rear of the pulpit, the entrance doors and the aisles, and even the pulpit 
steps, being occupied by British soldiers and officers. During the Siege, when the 
meetinghouse was used as a riding school by Burgoyne's regiment of light dra- 
goons, the floor was cleared for their exercises, and cart loads of earth and gravel 
were spread over it. The pulpit, the pews, and all the inside structures except 
the sounding-board and the east galleries were taken out and most of them burned 
for fuel. One " beautiful carved pew," with silken furnishings, was carried off to 
a neighboring house and " made a hog stye " of. The east galleries were fitted 
for spectators, and in one of them was a refreshment bar. The south door was 
closed and a pole was fixed here over which the cavalry were taught to leap their 
horses at full speed. In the winter a stove was set up, in which were used for 
kindling many of the precious books and manuscripts of the Rev. Thomas 
Prince's New England Library, then deposited in the " steeple-room " of the 
tower. The manuscript of Bradford's "History of Plimoth " (see p. 43), and 
that of the third volume of Winthrop's Journal among them, were spared. In 



52 BENJAMIN FRANKLIN'S BIRTHPLACE 

this tower study the Rev. Jeremy Belknap, the historian and the recognized 
founder of the Massachusetts Historical Society, did much work. 

The meetinghouse which preceded this, a " little house of cedar, 7 ' was the one 
which Andros obliged the regular church organization to share with the first 
Episcopal church (see p. 24). That, too, was the place where Judge Samuel 
Sewall in 1697 published his "confession of contrition" for his share as a witch- 
craft judge in the " blood-guiltiness" at Salem five years before. It was also the 
meetinghouse where Benjamin Franklin was baptized on the day of his birth 
January 17 (6 O. S.), 1706. 

In the neighborhood of the Old South is the newspaper quarter, 
Newspaper Row, extending below the curve of Washington Street, 
northward. Near it, also on Washington Street and Bromfield Street, 
are popular bookshops. 

From the Old South to the " Tea Party " Site. At the Old South we 
turn into Milk Street, but before doing so we should identify the site 
of the Province House, the official residence of the royal governors, pic- 
tured in Hawthorne's " Legends of the Province House." This mansion 
stood nearly opposite the meetinghouse, well back from the main 
street, above a handsome lawn ornamented by two noble oaks at the 
street front. A bit of its wall yet remains backing upon Province Court, 
which is reached from Washington Street by a foot passage. 

It was a stately house of brick, three stories, with gambrel roof, and a high 
cupola surmounted by a figure of an Indian with drawn bow and arrow, another 
specimen of the handiwork of " Deacon " Shem Drowne, maker of the grass- 
hopper on Faneuil Hall. The approach was by a high flight of stone steps 
leading to a portico, over which appeared the royal arms in deal and gilt. It 
long outlived the Province period. After the Revolution it served the Com- 
monwealth a while as the Government House, for the sittings of the governor 
and council, and for state offices. Thereafter it fell to commercial uses, and in 
its latter days it was a hall of negro minstrelsy. It finally passed, all but the bit 
of wall, in a fire in 1864. It was built originally for a dwelling by an opulent 
merchant, Peter Sergeant, in 1667. The Province bought it for a governor's 
house in 171 5. The Indian was preserved and is now in the collection of the 
Massachusetts Historical Society. 

Province Street and Province Court led to the rear grounds of the Province 
House. After the Revolution Province Street was for some time called the 
Governor's Alley. 

On Milk Street we pass the site of Benjamin Franklin's Birthplace, 
covered by the building No. 17, nearly opposite the side of the Old 
South, which bears on its front the legend " Birthplace of Franklin," 
with a bust of the philosopher. 

A little farther down, on the left, is the Federal Building, including 
the Post Office and the Federal courts, a gloomy pile of granite, chiefly 



FORT HILL SQUARE 53 

interesting for its service in checking at this point the sweep of the 
Great Fire of November 9-10, 1872, the gravest of all great Boston fires. 
In the wall at the Milk and Devonshire streets corner is a tablet which 
records that this fire, " beginning at the southeasterly corner of Summer 
and Kingston streets, extended over an area of sixty acres, destroyed 
within the business center of the city property to the value of more than 
sixty million dollars, and was arrested in its northeasterly progress at 
this point. The mutilated stones of this building also record that event." 

Federal Street, next below Devonshire Street, southward, is one of 
the main avenues to the South Station. It has two historic sites, at or 
about the western corners of Franklin Street, covered by business build- 
ings: one, that of the Federal Street Theater, the first regular playhouse 
in Boston, designed by Bulfinch and erected in 1794; the other, of the 
Federal Street Church, the Boston pulpit of William Ellery Charming 
from 1803 till his death in 1S42. 

We continue two blocks farther down Milk Street to Pearl Street, 
which opens from Post Office Square, upon which the Federal building 
fronts. The massive granite drinking basin, with high, shapely shaft 
topped by a gilt eagle, which ornaments this square is, as its inscription 
denotes, a practical memorial to Dr. George T. Angell (1823-1909): 
erected " by the school children of Boston, by the City of Boston, and 
by the societies he founded — the Massachusetts Society for the Pre- 
tention of Cruelty to Animals and the American Humane Education 
Society." Near the north side is the site of the first office of the 
Liberator, the dingy little attic room where, in 1831, William Lloyd 
Garrison began his aggressive antislavery editorial work. The building 
was swept off in the fire of 1872. 

When Garrison was mobbed in 1835, and was given refuge in the Old State 
House, then the City Hall, the Liberator office was on Washington Street in 
a building backing on Wilson's Lane, now Devonshire Street, where the attack 
upon him began. 

Turning into Pearl Street we follow it to its end at Atlantic Avenue, 
where is the "Tea Party" site. Along the way we cross High Street, 
and looking down this street eastward we see in the distance the poplar 
trees of Fort Hill Square, which marks the site of Fort Hill, one of the 
three original hillsof Boston, which was leveledin 1867-1872. Thehill got 
its name from the fort which was erected on its summit in 1632, the first 
fort on the peninsula. It was then at the eastern extremity of the town, 
directly opposite the harbor. In the second fort here, built in 1687, Andros 
took refuge at the time of the revolution which overthrew his government. 

The "Tea Party Wharf" was near the western line of the present 
Atlantic Avenue, close by Pearl Street. The tablet which we see on 



54 THE NORTH END 

the avenue front of the building occupying the northern corner of 
the two streets marks the site as nearly as possible. The inscription, 
beneath the model of a tea ship, tells the story of the party concisely: 

Here formerly stood 
GRIFFIN'S WHARF 
at which lay moored on Dec. 16, 1773, three 
British ships with cargoes of tea. To defeat 
King George's trivial but tyrannical tax 
of three pence a pound, about ninety 
citizens of Boston, partly disguised 
as Indians, boarded the ships, 
threw the cargoes, three hun- 
dred and forty-two chests 
in all, into the sea, 
and made the world 
ring with the patriotic 
exploit of the 
BOSTON TEA PARTY. 

" No, ne'er was mingled such a draught 
In palace, hall, or arbor, 
As. freemen brewed and tyrants quaffed 
That night in Boston Harbor." 

At this point we can take a surface car or, by walking to the next 
station northward, an elevated train, and ride to the North End for our 
exploration of that quarter. It is better, however, to take a south- 
bound car and return by way of Dewey Square (passing the South 
Station) and Summer Street to Washington Street, making our entry 
into the North End by the customary route from Scollay Square. 



2. The North End 

The North End (see Plate III), though now bereft of many of the 
landmarks that once gave it an antique flavor and a peculiar charm to 
seekers of things old and historic, is yet a quarter to which the much- 
worn term " unique " may justly be applied. There still remain a few 
landmarks of great interest, and " historic sites " abound in this small 
and compact district. The first "court end" of the town, where the 
gentry had their fine mansions beside the many quaint humbler houses 
of the early Colonial period, it is now the foreign quarter of the city, 
with foreign signs in dingy shops and a swarming population of Rus- 
sians, Armenians, Israelites, Norwegians, Poles, Italians saluting our 
ears with a jargon of tongues. 



GREEN DRAGON TAVERN 



55 



We approach the North End by way of Hanover Street, which runs 
from Scollay Square to the Chelsea Ferry on the water front. 

At Uuioji Street, the cross street next below Washington Street 
extension, we come to two historic sites of first importance. One is 
the site of the Green Dragon Tavern, the "headquarters of the Revo- 
lution." This stood on Union Street, a few steps off from the left side 
of Hanover Street. The spot is marked by a business building, on the 
face of which is an old effigy of the tavern sign, — a sheet-copper, 
green-painted representation of a creature of 
forked tongue and curled tail, couched upon 
an iron crane projecting over the entrance 
door of No. 84. The tavern existed from 
1680 or thereabouts, through colonial, pro- 
vincial, and Republican days, till the eighteen 
twenties, when the lane which bore its name 
was widened to form the present street. The 
Union tunnel station is now here. 




It was at the Green Dragon that the prerevo- 
lutionary leaders held their secret councils and 
formed their plans of campaign. Here the Tea 
Party originated. It was the rendezvous of the 
night patrol of Boston Mechanics, instituted to keep 
watch upon the British and Tory movements. It 
was the chief meeting place of the " North End 
Corcus," one of the three clubs composed of patriot 
leaders and followers, which added the word 
" caucus " to our political nomenclature. It was also the first Free Masons' hall, 
the pioneer St. Andrews Lodge having been organized here in 1752, and in 1769 
the first Grand Lodge of the Province, with Dr. Joseph Warren as Grand Master 
and Paul Revere a subordinate officer. 

The other site is that of Josiah Franklin's dwelling and chandlery shop, 
at "the sign of the Blue Ball," the boyhood home of Benjamin Franklin, 
where he worked for his father at candle-making and tended the 
shop. Near by was the " salt marsh " by the Mill Pond, on the edge of 
which he fished for minnows. The " Blue Ball" stood near the south- 
east comer of the junction of Union and Hanover streets. It held its 
place till the middle of the nineteenth century, when it was demolished 
in the widening of Hanover Street at this point. Its site is included in 
the street way. 

A stone's throw up Union Street (eastward) Marshall's Lane (now 
officially called street) opens from the left side, — one of the alleys or 
"short cuts" of old Boston, through which we must pass. It will bring 



5 6 « BOSTON STONE, 1737" 

us back to Hanover Street close to the cross street next below Union 
Street. 

As we enter Marshall's Lane from Union Street we cannot fail to 
notice the low-browed brick building of eighteenth-century fashion 
which occupies the upper comer of the lane and street. This is inter- 
esting as the place where Benjamin Thompson of Wobnm, who became 
Sir Benjamin Thompson and then Count Rumford, was a clerk or 
apprentice in his youth in Hopestill Capen's shop, selling imported 
stuffs to the fashionable folk of the provincial town. At the outbreak 
of the Revolution the Massachusetts Spy, afterward of Worcester, was 
printed on the upper floor of this building. 

Soon our lane makes a junction with another, — Creek Lane, which 
originally led to the Mill Creek, where is now Blackstone Street, as 
Marshall's Lane first led to the Mill Bridge across the creek. Here we 
see set against the base of a building a rough piece of stone with a 
spherical one on top of it marked "Boston Stone, 1737." This is only 
the relic of a paint mill which a painter brought out from England 
about 1700 and used in his shop close by. Perhaps he was Tom Child 
by name, to whom Sewall alludes in his diary: "Nov. 10, 1706. This 
morning Tom Child the Painter died." The monument was set up 
here some time after the painter's day, in imitation of the London Stone, 
to serve as a direction for shops in the neighborhood. A similar guide 
post, called the Union Stone, stood for some years at the entrance of 
the lane by Hopestill Capen's shop. In the front of the building at 
the outlet of the lane, on Hanover Street, is a carved reproduction of 
the London Painters' Guild, which is said to have been the sign of the 
painter who used the " Boston Stone." 

Opposite this monument we see, in the worn old structure on the 
corner of Creek Lane, the office of Ebenezer Hancock (brother of John 
Hancock), deputy paymaster general of the Continental army, where 
were deposited the funds in French crowns brought out by d'Estaing 
from America's ally, the king of France, which went to pay the arrears 
of the officers of the Continental line. The block beyond, facing Creek 
Lane, is a remnant of " Hancock Row," built for stores by John Hancock 
after the peace. 

Again on Hanover Street, we cross to the other side and enter Salem 
Street, which starts off obliquely from Hanover Street and then runs 
parallel with it. Now we are fairly within the North End. It is a curious 
street, with strange denizens. In early Colony days it was fair Green 
Lane, upon which it was the dream of prospering Bostonians to live. 
At the corner of Stillman Street is the site of the first Baptist meeting- 
house, erected in 1679, on tne holder of the open Mill Pond then on this 



IN AND ABOUT NORTH SQUARE 57 

side. This was the meetinghouse which was closed against the pro- 
scribed sect and its doors nailed up in 1680 by order of the court; 
when the undaunted society held their services in the meetinghouse 
yard. Its descendant is the present First Baptist Church on Common- 
wealth Avenue, Back Bay. Prince Street, intersecting Salem Street mid- 
way, preserves more of the old-time aspect than other streets of the 
quarter. This street (first in part Black Horse Lane) was the direct 
way from the North End to the Charlestown ferry (where is now the 
Charlestown Bridge), and after the battle of Bunker Hill numbers of 
the wounded British were brought here to houses which were turned 
into temporary hospitals. The most important of these emergency hos- 
pitals was a fine new house near the lower end of Prince Street at the 
comer of Lafayette Street. This remained until the end of the nine- 
teenth century, being occupied for some years by a grandson of one of 
the Boston Tea Party. Another on Prince Street, nearer Salem Street, 
is the so-called Stoddard house, a narrow brick dwelling, still standing 
(No. 130). It is said that Major Pitcairn was brought to this house 
and died here from his wounds. On the westerly corner of Prince and 
Margaret streets is the house where long lived John Tileston, the school 
master, the rigid but beloved master for two thirds of a century of the 
oldest North End school, which became the Eliot School. 

In and about North Square. Taking Prince Street at the right we 
cross Hanover Street and enter North Square. This squalid trian- 
gular inclosure was the central point of the North End in its " elegant " 
days, when it was adorned with trees and dignified by neighboring 
mansions. It is now the heart of the Italian colony. At its outlet 
upon North Street is the one landmark here of historic value. This is 
the little low house of wood, hedged in by ambitious modem structures, 
marked as the home of Paul Revere. It was the versatile patriot's 
dwelling from about 1770 through the Revolution and until 1800, when, 
having prospered in his foundry, he bought a finer house on Charter 
Street near by and there spent the remainder of his days. This North 
Square house was old when Revere moved into it from his earlier home 
on North Street (then Fish Street). It was built soon after the great 
fire of 1676 in place of Increase Mather's house, the parsonage of the 
North Church, which went down with the meetinghouse in that 
disaster. 

It was in the upper windows of this North Square house that on the evening 
of the Boston Massacre Revere displayed those awful illustrated pictures 
which, we read, struck the assembly of spectators " with solemn silence," while 
" their countenances were covered with a melancholy gloom." And well might 
they have shuddered. In the middle window appeared a realistic view of the 



58 OLD NORTH CHURCH 

" massacre." In the north window was shown the " Genius of Liberty," a sitting 
figure holding aloft a liberty cap and trampling under foot a soldier hugging a 
serpent, the emblem of military tyranny. In the south window was an obelisk 
displaying the names of the five victims, in front of which was a bust of the boy 
Snider, killed a few days before the " massacre " in a struggle before a Tory shop 
which had been " marked " as one not to be patronized ; and behind the bust a 
shadowy, gory figure, with these lines beneath: 

Snider's pale ghost fresh bleeding stands 
And Vengeance for his death demands. 

Just below this house, at about the corner of North and Richmond 
streets, stood the Red Lion Inn of early Colony days, kept by Nicholas 
Upsall, befriender of the proscribed Quakers, — the " Upsall gray with 
his length of days" of the "King's Missive," — who suffered banish- 
ment and imprisonment for his friendly acts. On Richmond Street 
was the birthplace of Charlotte Cushman (bom 1S16), whose name is 
perpetuated in the Cushman School near by. 

At the head of the square, on the north side, is the site of the Old 
North Church, which the British pulled down and used for firewood 
during the Siege. It stood between Garden Court and Moon streets. 
It was the second meetinghouse of the Second Church in Boston 
(instituted in 1649), built upon the ruins of the first one, burned in the 
fire of 1676. It became popularly known as the Church of the Mathers, 
from Increase, Cotton, son of Increase, and Samuel, son of Cotton 
Mather, successively its ministers. In the prerevolutionary period John 
Lathrop, a stanch patriot, was its minister, and it was the church which 
Revere attended. 

After the Revolution the lot upon which it had stood was set apart for the 
dwelling of Mr. Lathrop (who continued the minister till his death in 1816), 
and the society acquired the " New Brick Church " in the near neighborhood 
on Hanover Street, the successor of which was the Cockerel Church, so called 
from a copper weathercock which crowned its steeple — still another piece of 
"Deacon" Shem Drowne's clever work — and is now still doing service on the 
steeple of the Shepard Memorial Church in Cambridge. Mr. Lathrop's house 
on the old church lot was large and comfortable in appearance, with a row of 
poplars in the front yard, and on the Moon Street corner a weeping willow. 
These were all blown down in the destructive September gale of 18 15. 

The latest descendant of the Old North was an ivy-clad church on 
Copley Square, standing till 191 2, but now a business structure. Ralph 
Waldo Emerson was minister of the Second Church from 1829 to 1832. 

In Garden Court Street stood the stately mansion of Governor Thomas 
Hutchinson (his birthplace), which was sacked and partly destroyed 
with much of its contents by the anti-Stamp-Act mob on the night of 



CHRIST CHURCH AND COPP'S HILL 59 

August 26, 1765. It was a house of generous proportions, built of 
brick, painted "stone color," and set in ample grounds, the garden 
extending on one side to Fleet Street and back to Hanover Street. 
The interior was rich in finish and adornments. It is well pictured, 
although with fanciful touches, in Lydia Maria Child's early his- 
torical romance, " The Rebels, A Tale of the Revolution," published 
in 1852. It was here that Hutchinson w T rote his "History of 
Massachusetts." 

The first volume was published in 1764. When the house was pillaged the 
second volume lay in the rich library in manuscript almost ready for the press. 
It was thrown out with other precious books and papers, and " left lying in the 
street for several hours in a soaking rain." But most fortunately all but a few 
sheets were carefully collected and saved by the Rev. Andrew Eliot, minister of 
the "New North" Church, living near by on Hanover Street, and the author 
was enabled to transcribe the whole and publish it two years later. 

Hutchinson and his family made their hurried escape from the house just 
before the mob reached it, finding refuge in neighboring dwellings. Hutchinson 
was first harbored in Samuel Mather's house on Moon Street, but was obliged to 
seek another refuge to avoid the threatening mob. 

Also occupying Garden Court Street with the Hutchinson house, and 
of similar elegance, was the Clark-Frankland mansion, so called from 
William Clark, a rich merchant who built it, and Sir Harry Frankland, 
who afterward lived in it. J. Fenimore Cooper pictured this house in 
" Lionel Lincoln," in his description of the residence of " Mrs. Lech- 
mere," which he placed on Tremont Street ; and Edwin L. Bynner por- 
trayed it in his novel of "Agnes Surriage." Both of these mansions 
lingered in picturesque decay till the thirties of the nineteenth century, 
when the Bell Alley entrance to the square was widened into Prince 
Street. 

During the Siege North Square was a military rendezvous with bar- 
racks for the soldiers, their officers occupying the comfortable dwellings 
about it. The building on the east side by Moon Street, now an Italian 
church, was originally '•'Father Taylor's Bethel" a sailors' church, built 
in the early part of the nineteenth century, long conducted by the Rev. 
Edward T. Taylor, one of nature's orators and a born minister to 
seafaring men. 

Christ Church and Copp's Hill. Now we return to Salem Street, cross- 
ing Hanover Street and passing through North Bennet or Tileston Street, 
either of which will bring us close to Christ Church and Copp's Hill, 
the predominating historic features of the North End to-day. As we 
cross Hanover Street we should give a glance at a little low house 
crowded back from the street line (a second story and roof above a 



6o 



CHRIST CHURCH 



projecting store) on the west side, just below North Rennet Street. 
This is a remnant of the Mather-Eliot house built in 1677 by Increase 
Mather after the fire in North Square (see p. 57), and occupied by him 
till his death in 1723; and afterward long the home of Andrew Eliot 
and his son, John Eliot, ministers successively of the 
New North Church. On North Bennet Street was the 
first grammar school in the north part of the town, 
established in 17 13, and on Tileston Street (named 
for the old schoolmaster), the first writing school, begun 
in 1 7 18. This street was at that time Love Lane, so 
called not from sentiment but from a family by the 
name of Love who owned property about it. The fine 
municipal buildings now occupying North Rennet 
Street are the North End Branch Library and the 
public Bath House and Gymnasium. 

Christ Church is the oldest church edifice now 
standing in Roston, older by six years than the Old 
South, and by thirty years than King's Chapel. It 
was the second Episcopal church established in 
Roston. The comer stone w r as laid in April, 1723, 
when the Rev. Samuel Myles, then rector of King's 
Chapel, officiated, accompanied, says the record, "by 
the gentlemen of his congregation." The ceremony 
closed with the prayer, " May the gates of Hell never 
prevail against it." It was certainly built well to 
withstand the assaults of time. The stone side walls 
are two and a half feet thick, and the construction 
throughout is substantial. The brick tower is of four 
floors. The first spire was described as the " most 
elegant in the town." That was blown down in a 
gale in October, 1S05, but the present one, erected 
three years later, is said to be a faithful copy of it, 
preserving its proportions and symmetry. This tower 
has additional interest in that it was made from a 
model by Bulfinch. The tower chimes of eight 
bells, still the most melodious of any in the city, 
were first hung in 1744. Each bell has an inter- 
esting inscription. 
The tablet on the tower front bears this familiar legend: The signal 
lanterns of Paul Revere displayed in the steeple of this church April 18, 
7775, warned the country of the march of the British troops to Lexington 
and Concord. 



Christ Church, 
Salem Street 



ciirist church 61 

This tablet was set in 1S7S, the statement it conveys being substan- 
tiated by several local historical authorities. Other recognized authori- 
ties, chief among them Richard Frothingham, the historian of the Siege 
of Boston, place these signal lanterns on the tower of the true Old 
North Church — the meetinghouse in North Square which the British 
destroyed. That Gage witnessed the battle of Bunker Hill from this 
tower is an undisputed statement. 

The interior of the church retains much of the old-time aspect. 
Among the mural ornaments is Houdon's bust of Washington, the first 
monumental effigy of Washington set up in the country. It was placed 
here only ten years after Washington's death. The figures of the cher- 
ubim in front of the organ and the brass chandeliers, destined originally 
for a Canadian convent, were given to the church in 1758 by the master 
of an English privateer, who captured them from a French ship on the 
high seas. An ancient "Vinegar Bible" and the old prayer books are 
still in use. The silver communion service includes several pieces bear- 
ing the royal arms, which were gifts from George II in 1733, at the 
instance of the royal Governor Belcher. The clock below the rail has 
been in place since 1746. 

Beneath the tower are old tombs. In one of them Major Pitcairn 
was temporarily buried. Some years later, when his monument was 
erected in Westminster Abbey and his English relatives sent for his 
remains, a box said to contain them was duly forwarded, but the 
grewsome tale is told that the sexton was not sure of his identification. 
In 191 2 the church was restored to its ancient appearance, and Bishop 
Lawrence became rector. Open to visitors ; fee, twenty-five cents. 

A block above, at the comer of Salem and Sheafe streets, is the site 
of the home of Robert Newman. He was the sexton of Christ Church 
in 1775 who, according to the tradition that its steeple was the place 
of the Revere signals, hung them out at the instance of John Puling, a 
warden of the church, and in Revere's confidence. At the time British 
officers were quartered in this house upon the Newihan family. It 
stood until 1SS9. Near by, on Sheafe Street, was the birthplace of the 
Rev. Samuel F. Smith, author of " America." 

Up Hull Street, opening directly opposite Christ Church, a few steps 
bring us to the main gate of Copp's Hill Burying Ground, — a mob of 
youthful guides of both sexes and various nationalities pressing us along 
the way, rattling off with glib tongue the " features " of the region, and 
offering to show them, all and several, for a nickel. Hull Street per- 
petuates the name of John Hull, the maker of the pine-tree shillings. 
It was originally cut through Hull's pasture (in 1701), and the land for 
it was given by his daughter Hannah and Judge Sewall, her husband, 



62 COPP'S HILL 

on the happy condition that it should retain this name "forever." Of 
the few old houses permitted to remain here, but one need engage our 
attention. This one is on the south side, distinguished from its neigh- 
bors in standing endwise to the street. It is the Galloupe, or Gallop, 
house, so called, dating from 1722, which Gage's staff made their head- 
quarters during the battle of Bunker Hill. The Gallops who occupied 
it through two generations were lineal descendants of Captain John 
Gallop, the earliest pilot in Boston Harbor, among the " first comers " 
of 1630, for whom Gallop's Island in the harbor is named. He also lived 
in the North End, " near the shore, where his boat could ride safely at 
anchor." 

In the Copp's Hill of to-day we see only a small remnant of the 
original eminence, the northernmost of the three hills of the penin- 
sula upon ^which Boston was planted. It now consists of an embank- 
ment left after cuttings of the hill, protected on its steepest sides by a 
high stone wall. At the time of the battle of Bunker Hill, when its 
summit was occupied by the British battery whose shot, under the 
direction of Burgoyne and Clinton, set Charlestown on fire, it termi- 
nated abruptly on the northwest side, opposite Charlestown, in a high 
cliff. 

This battery stood near the southwest corner of the burying ground on land 
afterward cut down. Perhaps its site was the same as that of the windmill of a 
century earlier, brought over from Cambridge and set up here in 1653, to "grind 
the settlers' corn," thereby giving the hill its first name of " Windmill Hill." It 
got its name of Copp's from William Copp, an industrious cobbler, one of the 
first settlers, who owned a house and lot on its southeast corner near Prince 
Street. 

The burying ground, which now goes under the general name of 
Copp's Hill, really comprises four cemeteries of different periods : the 
North Burial Ground (established in 1660, the same year as the Granary 
Burying Ground); the Hull Street (1707); the New North (1809); and 
the Charter Street (1819). The oldest section is the northeasterly part 
of the inclosure. It is the largest of the historic burying grounds of 
the city, and is especially cherished as a picturesque breathing place in 
a squalid quarter, as well as for its associations. 

Among the noted graves or tombs which we may find here are those 
of the Revs. Increase, Cotton, and Samuel Mather; of Nicholas Upsall, 
the persecuted friend of the Quakers ; Deacon Siiem Drowne, the 
" cunning artificer " ; the Rev. Jesse Lee, early preacher of Methodism 
in Boston, his first church being the Common, where Whitefield had 
preached fifty years before ; the Rev. Francis W. P. Greenwood, rector 
of King's Chapel 1824-1843; and Edmund Hartt, the builder of the 



COPP'S HILL 63 

frigate Constitution. The tomb of the Mathers is near the Charter 
Street gate. A large memorial stone with bullet marks on its face 
attracts attention. It stands, as the inscription states, above the "stone 
grave ten feet deep," of " Capt. Daniel Malcom, mercht, who departed 
this life October 23d 1769 aged 44 years: a true Son of Liberty, a 
Friend to the Public, an Enemy of Oppression, and One of the foremost 
in opposing the Revenue Acts in America." This stone was a favorite 
target with the British soldiers quartered in the neighborhood during 
the Siege, and the bullet marks were made by them. Another stone, 
which stands toward the northwest angle of the ground, is also curiously 
marked. This commemorates " Capt Thomas Lake, aged 61 yeeres, an 
eminently faithful servant of God & one of a public spirit," who was 
" perfidiovsly slain by ye Indians at Kennibeck, Avgvst ye 14th 1676, 
& here interred the 13 of March following." A deep slit is across its 
face, into which the bullets taken from the captain's body were poured 
after being melted. The lead was long ago all chipped out by vandals. 
Captain Lake was a commander of the Ancient and Honorable Artil- 
lery Company in 1662 and 1674. Near the middle of the ground is the 
triple gravestone of George Worthylake, first keeper of Boston Light 
in the harbor, his wife and their daughter, all drowned while coming up 
to town in his boat one day in 17 18 — the mournful event that inspired 
Franklin's boyhood ballad of "The Lighthouse Tragedy" (see p. 17). 
A notable monument is to Major Samuel Shaw, a Revolutionary sol- 
dier, ancestor of Robert Gould Shaw. There are a number of vaults 
bearing sculptured slabs and heraldic devices. 

Here, as in the other old burying grounds, acts of vandalism have 
been committed in the past in the removal of several stones from their 
proper places, while sacrilegious hands have changed the dates on some 
tablets by transforming a 9 into a 2, as in 1620 for 1690, or 1625 for 
1695. Others have taken stones away and utilized them in chimneys or 
drains, and two or three tombs have been desecrated by the substitution 
of other names for the rightful ones upon them. The treatment of the 
tomb of the Hutchinsons with its armorial bearings, where were deposited 
the remains of Elisha and Thomas Hutchinson, grandfather and father, 
respectively, of Governor Hutchinson, has been cited 1 as a flagrant case 
of this sort. In place of Hutchinson has been cut the name of Lewis, 
while the honored dust of these Hutchinsons is said to have been 
"scattered before the four winds of heaven." It appears, however, 
from researches made in 1906 by a loyal descendant of Thomas Lewis, 
that this tomb was duly sold to him in 1807 by a granddaughter of 
Thomas Hutchinson, the deed of record bearing the signature of 
1 Bridgman's " Memorials of the Dead in Boston," 1852. 



6 4 



COPP'S HILL TERRACES 



Hannah (Mather) Crocker, a daughter of Rev. Samuel Mather and his 
wife, Thomas Hutchinson's daughter. It further appears that the 
Hutchinson bones lay in a corner of the tomb till between 1S24 and 
1825, when a grandson of Thomas Lewis caused them to be placed in 
a suitable box. Thomas Lewis was a deacon of the Second Church. 

A corner of the inclosure by Snowhill Street was originally used for 
the burial of slaves. Near the Charter Street gate is the " Napoleon 
willow," grown from a slip from the tree at Napoleon's grave. 

Copp's Hill Terraces, back of the burying ground, on Charter Street, 
extending down to Commercial Street, with the North End Park and 

Beach on the water 
front beyond, finish 
up rarely this fine 
open space. The 
terraces and the park 
are parts of the be- 
neficent Boston City 
Parks System. 

With a short stroll 
along Charter Street 
back to Hanover 
Street and across to 
the water front, our 
survey of the North 
End finishes. Charter 
Street got its name in 
1708 from the Prov- 




North Station, Causeway Street 



ince Charter of 1692. Before that the street was a lane, and the lane 
w T as associated with the Colony Charter, for it is said that that docu- 
ment was hidden during the troublous days of 1681 in the house of 
John Foster, which stood at the corner of this and Foster Lane (now 
Street). On the westerly corner of Charter and Salem streets Sir 
William P/iips, the first royal governor, built his brick mansion house 
when he became prosperous, thus fulfilling his dream, when a poor 
ship carpenter, of some day living on " the Green Lane of North Bos- 
ton." Where is now Revere Place, off Charter Street near Hanover, 
was Paul Revere's last home. On Foster Street was his foundry. 

Taking Battery Street from Hanover Street, we pass to Atlantic 
Avenue and North Battery Wharf, the site of the North Battery. 
Constitution Wharf, the next wharf north, marks the site of Hartt's 
shipbuilding yard where "Old Ironsides" was built; also the frigate 
Boston. Lewis's Wharf, southward, opposite the foot of Fleet Street, 



THE CHARLESTOWN DISTRICT 65 

marks in part (its north side) the site of Hancock's Wharf, upon which 
were Hancock's warehouses. 

On Atlantic Avenue we can take an elevated train at the Battery 
Street station (or surface cars, if we prefer) and return to our starting 
point at Scollay Square. 



3. The Charlestown District 

The trip to Charlestown naturally follows the exploration of the 
North End. If we start from the latter quarter, taking an elevated 
train north (Battery Street station), we change at the North Station 
station to a Sullivan Square train. If, however, we elect to go from 
the business quarters, we have a choice of various trolley lines besides 
the elevated: some in the Subway (from Scollay Square or Park Street 
stations), others on the surface, several of the latter passing through 
Adams Square. The Chelsea cars pass by the Navy Yard. 

The elevated tracks, and surface tracks under them, pass over the 
new Charlestown Bridge (completed in 190P; composed of steel and 
stone; 1900 feet long, including the approaches, and 100 feet wide; 
draw operated by electricity; cost $1,400,000; built by the city of 
Boston). Trolley lines also cross the Warren Bridge. 

All the "features" of Charlestown can be included within the com- 
pass of a short walk. Chief of them, of course, is Bunker Hill Monument. 
This is only a block from the second station of the elevated line in the 
district, — Thompson Square (the first station being City Square, at the 
end of Charlestown Bridge), — and about a ten-minute walk from City 
Square. The United States Navy Yard (established in 1800), occupying 
"Moulton's Point," the spot where the British troops landed for the 
battle, is next in popular interest. The main gate is at the junction of 
Wapping and Water streets, and Water Street opens from City Square. 
The yard is open daily to visitors, admitted by passes which are to be 
obtained at the main gate. It is an inclosure of nearly ninety acres, 
attractively laid out, and with many interesting features. The marine 
museum and naval library occupy the oldest building in the grounds 
near the entrance gate. Another near-by point of interest is Winthrop 
Square (about a five-minute walk from City Square), the early Colonial 
training field, where are memorial tablets bearing the names of the 
Americans who fell in the battle of Bunker Hill ; also a Soldiers' Monu- 
ment (Civil War) by Martin Milmore, sculptor of the soldiers' monument 
on Boston Common. On Phipps Street, off Main Street, west side, 
near Thompson Square station of the elevated line, is the ancient 



66 CHARLESTOWN DISTRICT 

burying ground in which is the monument to John Harvard, the first 
benefactor of Harvard College, designed by Solomon Willard and 
erected by graduates of the college in 1828. 

City Square and "Town Hill," which rises on its west side behind 
the municipal building (the City Hall when Charlestown was an 
independent city) are the parts in which the first settlement was made 
by the colonists in 1629. The "Great House" of the governor, in 
which the Court of Assistants adopted the order giving Boston its name 
in 1630, stood on the west side of the square. The dwelling of the 
young minister, John Harvard, stood near the opening of Main Street, 
his lot extending back over the slope of " Town Hill." The "spreading 
oak" beneath which the first church, which became the first church of 
Boston, was organized by Winthrop and his associates, was on the east- 
erly slope of this hill. The first " palisadoed" fort, set up in 1629 and 
lasting for more than half a century, was on its summit. The first bury- 
ing ground, where it is supposed was the grave of John Harvard, all 
traces of which long ago disappeared, was near its foot, toward the 
northern end of the square. 

The present church on the hill, facing Harvard Street, is the lineal 
descendant of the first meetinghouse of the Charlestown Church, organ- 
ized in 1632. An earlier church, on the same spot, w T as from 1789 to 
182 1 the pulpit of Rev. Jedidiah Morse, author of the first geography of 
the United States, deserving of remembrance more especially as the 
father of Samuel F. B. Morse, the inventor of the electric telegraph and 
noted in art. When his distinguished son was bom, Mr. Morse was 
living temporarily in the house of a parishioner, Thomas Edes, the par- 
sonage near the church being in building. This house is still standing, 
worn and dingy now, but preserved as the birthplace of Morse. We 
may see it on Main Street, above the Thompson Square station, marked 
with a tablet: "Here was bom Samuel Finley Morse, 27 April 1791, 
inventor of the electric telegraph." The room was the front chamber 
of the second stoiy on the right of the entrance door. This house was 
the first dwelling erected after the burning of the town in the battle of 
Bunker Hill. 

Bunker Hill Monument is on Breed's Hill, where the battle was fought. 
Monument Avenue, from Main Street, leads to the principal entrance of 
the monument grounds. In the main path we are confronted with the 
spirited statue of Colonel William Prescott in bronze, representing the 
American commander repressing his impatient men, as the enemy 
advances up the hill, with the warning words : " Don't fire till I tell 
you ! Don't fire till you see the whites of their eyes ! " This statue is 
by William W. Story, and was erected by the Bunker Dill Monument 



BUNKER HILL MONUMENT 



67 



Association in 1881. It is inscribed simply with Prescott's name 
and the date, "June 17, 1775." It stands on or close to the spot 
where Prescott stood at the opening of the battle when he gave the 
signal to fire by waving his sword ; but the statue faces in a different 
direction. 

The obelisk occupies the southeast comer of the American redoubt, 
and its sides are parallel with those of that structure, which was about 
eight rods square. It is built in courses of granite, 
the stone coming from a quarry in Quincy, whence 
it was carried to the shipping point by the first 
railroad laid in the country. It is thirty feet square 
at the base and two hundred and twenty feet high. 
Inside the shaft is a hollow cone, around which 
winds a spiral flight of stone steps, by which 
ascent is made to the top. Here is an observ- 
atory, seventeen feet high and eleven feet in 
diameter, with windows on each side. Before 
attempting the climb the visitor should consider 
the task. The steps number nearly three hundred, 
— to be exact, two hundred and ninety-five. There 
is reward, however, for the exertion when the 
summit is reached, in the magnificent view which 
it commands in every direction. 

The stone lodge at the base of the obelisk con- 
tains an interesting museum of memorials of the 
battle and a fine marble statue of General Joseph 
Warren by Henry Dexter (dedicated June 17, 
1857). The spot where Warren fell is marked by 
a low stone in the ground. 

The monument was begun in 1825, when the corner 
stone was formally laid by Lafayette, under the direction 
of the Massachusetts Grand Lodge of Masons, and Bunker Hill 

Daniel Webster delivered the oration. It remained Monument 

unfinished for nearly twenty years. Then, in 1840, 

largely through the efforts of American women, the required funds for its 
completion were raised. In July, 1842, the last stone was hoisted to its place, 
one of the workmen riding up on it and waving an American flag. When it was 
finally laid in cement the event was announced by a national salute. The com- 
pleted structure was dedicated on the 17th of June, 1843, when Webster was 
again the orator, and President Tyler with members of his cabinet was present. 
In the great throng that gathered on this occasion were a few survivors of the 
battle. The sculptor Greenough devised the monument, and Solomon Willard 
was the architect who superintended its construction. 




68 WEST END 

Bunker Hill lies to the northward of Breed's Hill, toward Charles- 
town Neck, where the Elevated line ends. Its summit, higher than 
Breed's Hill, is occupied by " Charlestown Heights," overlooking the 
Mystic River, one of the most attractive of the Boston City Parks 
System. On Walker Street, on this hill, a short street extending from 
Main up to Wall Street, is still standing the house where Thomas Ball, 
the sculptor, was born. 

4. The West End 

The West End (see Plate II) comprises that quarter of the city which 
lies north of the Common and between Beacon, Tremont, and Court 
streets, Bowdoin Square, Green Street and so northwest to the Charles 
River, and Charles Street to Beacon Street at the foot of the Common. 
It thus includes all of Beacon Hill. It is a fading quarter now, with a 
number of old Boston institutions, some mellow old streets, others in 
hopeless decay, and numerous landmarks, especially of literary Boston. 
In its better parts it retains more distinctly than any other quarter of 
the city the genuine Boston flavor. 

The most interesting part is the Beacon Hill section. We have seen 
its southern boundary in the fine line of Beacon Street architecture 
opposite the Common from the State House to Charles Street. Let 
us enter it, therefore, above Beacon Street, — from the State House 
Park through the archway to Mt. Vernon Street. 

Although " The Hill," as this was called in its proud days, par excel- 
lence, is not the oldest part of the West End, it has been from its 
upbuilding the choicest, and accordingly its associations are the richest. 
Up to the Revolution it was largely a region of fields and pastures. 
Until near the opening of the nineteenth century there were but two 
houses on the Beacon Street slope west of the Hancock mansion. The 
greater part of the territory below the Hancock holdings was the domain 
of John Singleton Copley, the painter (after his fortunate marriage), from 
about 1769 to 1795. Tne bounds of this "farm," as Copley called it, 
although it was chiefly pasture land, are indicated generally by the 
present Mt. Vernon and Pinckney streets on the north, Walnut Street on 
the east, the Common south, and the Charles River west. It included 
the homestead lot of the first European settler, William Blaxton, — he 
who was here before the Winthrop company, — with the "excellent 
spring" of which he "acquainted" the governor when he invited him 
hither. It was the acquisition of the Hancock pasture for the new 
State House, — the Bulfinch Front, — in 1795, tnat g ave the impulse to 
the development in this quarter. Then a " syndicate " purchased the 



HANCOCK, MT. VERNON, AND JOY STREETS 69 

Copley estate at a bargain (Copley was at that time living in England), 
and in the course of a few years these now old streets appeared, built 
up substantially, in place of the Copley pastures and adjoining proper- 
ties. A half-century after it was remarked that on " the Copley estate 
live, or have lived, a large proportion of those most distinguished among 
us for intellect and learning or for enterprise, wealth and public spirit." 

On Mt. Vernon Street from the archway we are passing through what 
were the Hancock gardens. Hancock Street, coming up the hillside at 
our right, is the oldest of the streets here. It originally ran by the side 
of the peak of Beacon Hill over to the Common. It was given the 
governor's name in 1788. Near its foot, on the east side, is the Sumner 
house (No. 20) in which Charles Sumner lived from 1830 to 1867. Along 
the same side, extending from Deme Street nearly up to Mt. Vernon 
Street, stood from 1849 to 1S84 the Beacon Hill Reservoir, a massive 
granite structure with lofty arches piercing its front walls, notable as 
a superior piece of architecture. Its service as a distributing reservoir 
closed some time before its removal, clearing the way for the State 
House Annex. 

Joy Street, the first to cross Mt. Vemon, is next to Hancock Street in 
age. It used to be Belknap Street, the principal way to the negro quar- 
ters on the north slope of the hill. Midway in its descent to Cambridge 
Street a dingy court opens, Smith by name, in which is a landmark of 
antislavery days. This is the brick meetinghouse erected for the first 
African church (built in 1806), now a Jewish synagogue, which was used 
for abolition meetings. It was after a meeting held here on the evening 
of December 3, i860, commemorating the execution of John Brown, that 
Wendell Phillips was assisted to his home, then on Essex Street, by a 
Volunteer guard of forty young men with locked arms, pressed closely by 
a threatening mob. At the fairer end of this street, near Beacon Street, 
is the Diocesan House (1 Joy Street), the headquarters of the Protestant 
Episcopal Church. Here are the offices of various church organiza- 
tions, the parlors of the Episcopal Church Association, and the library. 
Above (Nos. 3 and 4) are the houses of the Twentieth Century Club, which 
concerns itself with many reforms, and of the Massachusetts Civic League. 

As we proceed along Mt. Vernon Street, which grows in old-fashioned 
stateliness as it advances over the hill, we come upon a succession of 
houses with an interesting past. No. 49, on the north side, was long 
the home of Lemuel Shaw, chief justice of the Massachusetts Supreme 
Judicial Court for thirty years (1830-1860). Its near neighbor (No. 53), 
now the house of the General Theological Library, was once the dwelling 
of a merchant of distinction. The library which has succeeded it is 
an unsectarian institution established since i860, for the purpose of 



JO WEST END 

"promoting religious and theological learning," having a collection of 
22,000 volumes and some 5,000 pamphlets. 

It is a special library of standard and current theological books, that term 
being used in its broad sense to cover works on sociology, philosophy, comparative 
religions, and archaeological research. Its books are free to all New England 
clergymen ; and beyond " Greater Boston " they are furnished through the local 
public libraries. 

The head of the stately row of houses beyond, set back thirty feet 
from the street (No. 57), was the town house of Charles Francis Adams, 
Sr., during the latter years of his life. The next one in this row (No. 
59), with its classic doorway, is most interesting as the last home of 
Thomas Bailey Aldrich, and associated with his ripest work. No. 65, 
transformed into an apartment house, so, unhappily, breaking the sym- 
metry of the row, was formerly the home of Senator Henry Cabot Lodge, 
where some of his most notable historical writing was done. No. 79 
was the home of Horace Gray during his long service on the Supreme 
bench of the State as justice and chief justice, before he was made a 
justice of the United States Supreme Court. The last house of the 
row (No. S3) was the last Boston home of William Ellery Channing, 
whose study here was the " Mecca of all sorts and conditions of men." 

On the opposite side of the street the ornate brownstone houses with 
lofty entrances, now the Theological School of Boston University, were 
hospitable mansions erected in the fifties of the last century by the 
brothers John E. and Nathaniel Thayer, eminent merchants of their 
time and benefactors of Harvard University. No. 76, just below, was 
the home of Margaret Deland for a number of years, during the period 
marked by her " Philip and His Wife." No. 88, on the lower corner of 
little Willow Street (which connecting, nearly, with another little street 
across Chestnut Street provides a "short cut" to the Common), was 
once the home of Enoch Train, the projector of the line of fast clipper 
ships to Liverpool, fine craft which came into successful competition 
with the early ocean steamships. He was the father of Mrs. A. D. T. 
Whitney of Milton, the favorite writer of girls' stories. No. 92 was the 
home and studio of Anne Whitney during the years that she was model- 
ing some of her most notable statues — the Samuel Adams (see p. 15) 
and the Leif Ericson (see p. 79) among them. 

Louis burg Square, with its inclosed park of lofty trees and diminutive 
Italian marble statues of Aristides and Columbus at either end, sug- 
gestive of old London residential squares, connects Mt. Vernon with 
Pinckney Street, the latter with an air of shabby gentility yet borne with 
decorum. Blaxton's spring is believed to have been in the middle of 



PINCKNEY STREET 71 

this square. The point is disputed by local historians, the popular 
location being in Spring Lane, north of the Old South Meetinghouse; 
but the evidence in support of the Louisburg Square situation is 
accepted as conclusive by most authorities. The matter, however, is 
not of moment, for the town was full of springs when Blaxton 
"solicited" Winthrop hither. 

Blaxton's orchard spread back up the hill slope toward this square. His 
homestead lot of six acres, reserved after his sale of the whole peninsula to the 
colonists for thirty pounds, occupied the northwesterly slope of the hill, bounded 
southerly toward the Common and westerly on Charles River, the water's edge 
then being at the present Charles Street. His cottage, with its rose garden, was 
on the hill slope toward the Common, between the present Spruce and Charles 
streets. He moored his boat on the river, presumably at a point which jutted out 
from the bluff in which the hill ended, on the Charles Street side. 

At No. 10 Louisburg Square was the last Boston home of Louisa M. 
Alcott, where her remarkable father, A. Bronson Alcott, died (1888) in 
his eighty-ninth year ; her own death following the day of his funeral. 
No. 4 was the home of William D. Howells in the late eighteen-seventies, 
when he was a Bostonian editing the Atlantic. No. 20 is interesting as 
the house where Jennie Lind was married in 1852. 

On the upper corner of the square and Pinckney Street are the main 
house and the chapel of the Sisterhood of St. Margaret, Protestant 
Episcopal, where is St. Margaret's Hospital, one of the most worthy 
institutions of the city. At No. 5, this side, lived John Gorham Palfrey, 
the historian, in the eighteen-sixties. 

Pinckney Street extends from Joy Street to the river, with but two 
streets crossing it. At the upper end was for forty years the home of 
Edwin P. Whipple, the essayist: the plain brick house, No. 11. Lower 
down, on the opposite side, the house No. 20 was the home of the 
Alcott family in the fifties of the last century, the scene of Louisa M. 
Alcott's early struggle in authorship mingled with domestic occupations. 
At No. 54, nearly opposite the opening of Anderson Street, was the 
early home of George S. Hillard, lawyer, critic, essayist, remembered 
especially through his " Hillard's Readers" of the mid eighteen-fifties. 
From this house Hawthorne in 1842 wrote his little note to the Rev. 
James Freeman Clarke requesting " the greatest favor which I can 
receive from any man," — the performance of the ceremony of his 
marriage to Sophia Peabody. Hillard lived for a much longer period 
at No. 62. On the lower slope of the street, below the square, at 
No. 84, was the first Boston home of Aldrich after his marriage, where 
Longfellow got the inspiration for "The Hanging of the Crane." The 
" Story of a Bad Boy" issued from this house. 



72 



WEST END 



On Mt. Vernon Street again we may see just below West Cedar Street 
the first home of Margaret Deland in this quarter, — No. 112, — where her 
earlier books were written ; and nearly opposite, at No. 99, the home of 
John C. Ropes, in his day the authority on Napoleonic literature. 

By West Cedar Street we cross to Chestnut Street, possessing in its 
entirety, perhaps, more of the old Boston flavor than the other streets of 
" The Hill." In the short block of West Cedar Street through which 
we pass, note should be taken on one side of the town house of Percival 
Lowell (Xo. 1 1), the astronomer and producer of notable books ; on the 
other, the former home of Henry C. Merwin (No. 3), the essayist and literary 
authority on the American horse and the dog, and, at an earlier period, 
of the poet T. W. Parsons, with his brother-in-law George Lunt ; and, at 
No. 1, the home of the Harvard Musical Association, organized in 1837 
" to promote the progress and knowledge of the best music," and from 
its establishment a leading factor in the development of musical culture 
in Boston. 

Up Chestnut Street on one side and down on the other we shall 
pass a series of historic houses. No. 50, on the south side, was the 
town house of Francis Parkman, from 1S64 until his death (1893) identi- 
fied with the most of his historical work in the preparation of his 
" France and England in North America." No. 43, nearly opposite, 
was for upwards of forty years the town house of Richard H. Dana, St., 
the poet; here he died (1896) at ninety-one. A little way above, the 
house presenting a side bay to the street (No. 29) was the sometime home 
of Edwin Booth, the actor. Higher up the street a group of three houses 
(Nos. 17, 15, and 13) arrest attention as examples of the best type of 
early nineteenth-century domestic architecture. The first was the long- 
time home of Cyrus A. Bartol, the " poet preacher " and essayist ; the sec- 
ond is the ancestral home of Dr. B. Joy Jeffries ; the third was for some 
years the home of Rev. John T. Sargent, the meeting place of the Radical 
Club, renowned in its day, which came after the Transcendental Club of 
wider fame. Mrs. Julia Ward Howe also lived some years in this house. 

On Walnut Street, where Chestnut Street ends, — or, more properly, 
begins, — was the historian Motley's boyhood home, in a pleasant house 
"looking down Chestnut Street," now replaced by a more modern 
dwelling. At 8 Walnut Street was Parkman's earlier house, from which 
he removed to 50 Chestnut Street. 

Returning now to the foot of the hill and taking Charles Street north- 
ward (once beautified by handsome trees, now all gone save one or two 
worn remnants), we may pass the Charles Street houses once the homes 
of Dr. Holmes, James T. Fields, and T. B. Aldrich (Nos. 164, 148, and 131, 
respectively). On the way we should notice at the foot of Mt. Vernon 



RIVERBANK 



73 



Street, corner of Brimmer, the Church of the Advent (Protestant Episco- 
pal), in the early English style of architecture, with stone tower and 
steeple. In the tower is a chime of bells. The church organization dates 
from 1844. No. 26 Brimmer Street is the home of M. A. De Wolfe Howe, 
editor, biographer, and poet. 

The old literary homes of Charles Street are near together toward 
Cambridge Street. 

Holmes's life at No. 164 was between 1859 and 187 1, covering the period of 
his " Professor at the Breakfast Table," " Elsie Venner," and " The Guardian 
Angel,'' his war poems and most noteworthy verses of occasion. Aldrich moved 
into No. 131 from the Pinckney Street house the year that Holmes moved from 
the street to 296 Beacon Street. He remained here for about ten years and 
then moved to the Mt. 
Vernon Street house. 
This Charles Street 
house is identified with 
his " Marjorie Daw," 
" Prudence Palfrey," 
" The Queen of Sheba," 
and " The Stillwater 
Tragedy," and the 
beginning of his editor- 
ship of the Atlantic 
Monthly. Fields was 
the earliest of the three 
to come to Charles 
Street, and this re- 
mained his home until 
his death (1881). It was 
longaftermaintained as 
the town home of Mrs, 
Annie Fields and Sarah Orne Jewett. The Fields library is one of the richest 
in authors' manuscripts. It has the complete manuscript of " The Scarlet Letter." 

The cross streets, Chestnut, Mt. Vernon, Pinckney, and Revere, lead 
to the Riverbank, the beautiful Esplanade along the Charles River 
basin, a favorite promenade. The finely designed building on the 
Chestnut Street corner, facing the Esplanade, is the clubhouse of the 
Union Boat Club, an organization dating back to 1851. 

Across Cambridge Street is the Charlesbank, the pleasant park with 
trees and shrubs and shaded seats, along the river front between the 
Cambridge and Craigie bridges. It is especially designed for the poorer 
classes living in the neighborhood. 

The successive institutions on the opposite side of the street are the 
County Jail, generally called the Charles Street Jail, the Massachusetts 




Charlesbank 



74 BACK BAY 

Charitable Eye and Ear Infirmary (incorporated 1827), and the Mas- 
sachusetts General Hospital (incorporated 181 1). The latter fronts on 
Blossom Street, and embraces a group of noble buildings. The oldest, 
or central building, with porticoes of Ionic columns and shapely dome, 
was designed by Bulfinch. In the old operating room the first successful 
operation upon a patient under the influence of ether was performed in 
October, 1846, by Dr. J I'. 7\ C. Morion. This event is commemorated 
by the Ether Monument^ so called, in the Public Garden. At Dr. Morton's 
grave in Mt. Auburn, Cambridge, is also a monument. On A'orth Grove 
Street, at one side of the hospital, is the first Harvard Medical School 
building (afterward the Harvard Dental School) (see p. 91 e), the scene 
of the Parkman murder va. 1849, — tne killing of Dr. George Parkman 
by Professor John W. Webster. Both were men of good social and 
professional standing, and the trial was one of the most celebrated in 
Boston. Webster was executed the following year. 

The only other object of interest in this older part of the West End 
is the West Church, at the corner of Cambridge and Lynde streets, now 
the West End Branch of the Public Library. It dates from 1806. Its 
predecessor was used for barracks during the Siege, and the steeple was 
taken down because it had been used in making signals to the Conti- 
nental camp at Cambridge. The present house was long the pulpit of 
Charles Lowell (father of James Russell Lowell) and Cyrus A. Bartol. 

The ornamental Cambridge Bridge, of steel and masonry, finished in 
1907, architect Edmund M. Wheelwright, replaces the historic West 
Boston Bridge. 

5. The Back Bay 

The Public Garden below the Common, between Beacon, Charles, Boyl- 
ston, and Arlington streets, is the gateway to the Back Bay District (see 
Plates I and II), the modern "court end" of Boston. Commonwealth 
Avenue is its principal boulevard. Boylston Street to Copley Square, 
and Huntington Avenue beyond, are its southern bounds ; Beacon Street 
and Charles River its northern bounds. Copley Square is its central 
point. Massachusetts Avenue is its great western cross thoroughfare. 
To this avenue the streets of the quarter — with the exception of Hunt- 
ington Avenue, which begins at Copley Square — run parallel to or at 
right angles with Beacon Street on the Charles River side. The cross 
streets, beginning with Arlington Street, are named in alphabetical order, 
a trisyllable alternating with a disyllable word. Broad thoroughfares and 
imposing architecture characterize this quarter. The streets north of 
Boylston Street between Arlington Street and Massachusetts Avenue 
are free from car tracks. Commonwealth Avenue, with its tree-lined 



BACK BAY 75 

parkway, broken here and there by statues, is two hundred feet wide, or 
two hundred and twenty feet from house to house, between Arlington 
Street and Massachusetts Avenue. It extends beyond the original limits 
of the quarter, through the Brighton district to the western boundary of 
the city at the Newton line. Huntington Avenue, with a middle green 
occupied by street-car tracks, is one hundred feet in width, or one hun- 
dred and twenty feet from house to house. It extends to the Brookline 
line. Massachusetts Avenue comes into the quarter from the Dorchester 
District, where it begins at Edward Everett Square (so named from the 
birthplace of Edward Everett, which stood at this point) and, crossing Har- 
vard Bridge, continues through Cambridge, Arlington, and Lexington. 




Harvard Bridge 

All the territory of this district is "made land" in place of the bay 
whose name it takes, a beautiful sheet of water that made up from Charles 
River, and at flood time spread out from the present Charles Street by 
the Common to the " Neck " (the narrow stem of the original peninsula) 
and Roxbury, and toward the hills of Brookline. The Public Garden 
was the " Round Marsh," or " the marsh at the bottom of the Common." 

The filling of the bay was planned in 1852 by a state commission, the Com- 
monwealth having the right to the flats below the line of riparian ownership. At 
that time the bay was a great basin made by dams thrown across it for the utili- 
zation of its water power by mills on its borders. These dams were also used as 
causeways for communication between Boston and Roxbury and the western sub- 
urbs. They were the " Mill Dam," now included in lower Beacon Street ; the 
" Cross Dam," extending from the Roxbury side to the Mill Dam ; and the cause- 
way, corresponding in part with the present Brookline Avenue (earlier the Punch 
Bowl Road) , which extends from the junction of Beacon Street and Commonwealth 
Avenue southwest to the Brookline line. The filling was practically begun in 
1857 and finished in 1886. It was done by the Commonwealth and the Boston 
Water Power Company. The Commonwealth owned 108.44 acres of the territory. 
On its sales of the land remaining after large. gifts to institutions, and reserva- 
tions for the city of Boston, and for streets and passageways, it made a net profit 
of upward of four million dollars. The avails of the sale were applied to educa- 
tional purposes and to the endowment of several of the sinking funds of the state. 



7 6 



PUBLIC GARDEN 



The Public Garden is the gem of the city parks, essentially a flower 
garden, with rich verdure, a dainty foil to the plainer Common. The 




Bridge, Public Garden 

artificial pond in the middle of the inclosure is so irregularly shaped as 
to appear extensive, although its actual area is only three and three 
quarters acres. The iron bridge which carries the main path over the 
pond has been endowed by the local wits with the title of the " Bridge 

of Size," from its ponderous piers. 
The statues and monuments here 
are: 

On the Charles Street side : 
Statue of Edward Everett Hale, 
of bronze, by Bela L. Pratt. 
Erected in 19 13. The cost met 
by a popular subscription. 

On the Beacon Street side : the 
Ether Monument, of granite and 
red marble, by J. Q. A.Ward, com- 
memorating the discovery of anaes- 
thetics. Erected in 1S68. A gift 
to the city by Thomas Lee. The 
ideal figures surmounting the shaft 
illustrate the story of the Good 
Samaritan ; the marble bas-reliefs 
represent (1) a surgical operation 
in a civic hospital, the patient being 
under the influence of ether, (2) 
the angel of mercy descending to 
relieve suffering humanity, (3) 
interior of a field hospital, showing a wounded soldier in the hands of 
the surgeon, (4) an allegory of the triumph of science. 




Channing Statue 



PUBLIC GARDEN 



77 




Entrance to Subway, Public Garden 



On the Boylston Street side : Statue of Charles Sumner, of bronze, 

by Thomas Ball. Erected in 1878. This was provided for by popular 

subscription. Statue of 

Colonel Thomas Cass 

(commander of the Ninth 

Regiment, Massachusetts 

Volunteers, in the Civil 

War ; killed at Malvern 

Hill, Va., July 1, 1862), of 

bronze, by Richard E. 

Brooks. Erected in 1 8S9. 

A gift to the city by the 

Society of the Ninth 

Regiment. 

On the Arlington Street 

side : Statue of William 

Elle?y Channing (facing 

the Arlington Street Church on the opposite side of the street, 

the successor of the Federal Street Church, which was the pulpit of 

Channing), of bronze, by Herbert Adams. The carved canopy, of gran- 
ite and marble, designed by Vincent 
C. Griffith, architect. Erected in 1903. 
A gift to the city by John Foster. 
On the marble columns of the can- 
opy and on the marble stone at the 
back of the monument are inscriptions. 
The equestrian statue of Washington 
(in the main path, facing the Arlington 
Street gate), of bronze, by Thomas 
Ball. Erected in 1869. Provided for 
by popular subscription. The marble 
Venus in the fountain near by was the 
first work of art placed in the Garden. 
The Arlington Street Church (Uni- 
tarian), which dignifies the corner of 
Arlington and Boylston streets, was 
the first church built in this quarter 
( 1 860-1 861). Its exterior design is 
broadly after old London Wren 
churches. The steeple was the first in 

Boston to be constructed entirely of stone. In its tower is a chime of 

sixteen bells. The church organization dates from 1727, and this 




Washington Statue, 
Public Garden 



78 COMMONWEALTH AVENUE 

meetinghouse was the successor of the third Federal Street Church 
building which stood on Federal Street from 1S09 to 1859 (see p. 53), 
and the one which was identified with Channing and his long-time 
associate and successor, Ezra Gannett. Dr. Gannett continued as 
minister of the Arlington Street Church till his death. 

On Newbury Street (the next street north opening from Arlington 
Street), at No. 2, is the house of the St. Botolph Club, the representa- 
tive literary and professional club of the city, taking its name from 
St. Botolph in old Boston, England (organized in 1880; Francis Parkman, 
the historian, the first president). It possesses a silver-gilt "loving 
cup " which formerly belonged to the corporation of the English 
Boston. In its art gallery, exhibitions of new work by artists are given 
during the winter season. The picturesque church nearly opposite the 
St. Botolph is Emmanuel Church (Protestant Episcopal). It is built of 
the local Roxbury conglomerate stone. The church organization dates 
from i860, and this edifice was erected two years later. No. 35 is the 
present home of Margaret Delano". 

Commonwealth Avenue opens from the middle of Arlington Street, 
its parkway being directly opposite the main path of the Public Garden, 
which terminates at the Arlington Street gate. A lovely vista opens 
through the long park of beautiful trees. The succession of statues 
down the long walk are : 

Alexander Hamilton, of granite, by Dr. William Rimmer. Erected 
in 1865. A gift to the city by Thomas Lee, the same who gave the 
Ether Monument in the Public Garden. This was the first statue 
in the country to be cut from granite. The inscription characterizes 
Hamilton as "orator, writer, soldier, jurist, financier. Although his 
particular province was the treasury, his genius pervaded the whole 
administration of Washington." 

General John Glover of Marblehead, "a soldier of the Revolution," 
of bronze, by Martin Milmore. Erected in 1875. A g^ to tne 
city by Benjamin T. Read. The inscription details the conspicuous 
features of Glover's military service with his marine regiment of Mar- 
blehead men, notably his leadership in transporting the army across 
the river from Brooklyn to New York and across the Delaware in 
1776. 

William Lloyd Garrison, a sitting figure, of bronze, by Olin L. 
Warner. Erected in 1886. The fund for this statue was raised by 
popular subscription. Beneath the chair in which the figure is seated 
lies a representation of a volume of the Liberator. The inscriptions 
are quotations of the motto of the Liberator: "Our Country is the 
World — Our Countrymen are Mankind"; and the declaration in 



COMMONWEALTH AVENUE 



79 



Garrison's salutatory in his paper : " I am in earnest — I will not equivo- 
cate — I will not excuse — I will not retreat a single inch — and I will 
be heard." 

Le 'if Eric son, the Norse discoverer, of the year iooo; an ideal figure, 
of bronze, by Anne Whitney. Erected in 1886. The pedestal displays 
reliefs, one representing a Norse scene, — a banqueting hall, with Leif 
returned from his voyages relating his discoveries ; the other the fabled 
Norse landing on American shores. 

Notable clubs are housed on this favored avenue. At its head, south 
side, at No. 2, is the Engineers' Club. At No. 40, nearing Berkeley 
Street, is the College Club, of graduates 
from women's colleges. 

On Berkeley Street, north of the avenue, 
at the corner of Marlborough Street, is 
the beautiful stone edifice of the First 
Church of Boston (Unitarian), fifth in 
succession from the rude little fabric of 
1632 on the present State Street (see p. 5). 
It was erected in 1868, succeeding the 
Chauncy Place (now Street) Church, in 
the business quarter, which stood for 
sixty years. William Emerson, father of 
Ralph Waldo Emerson, was the minister 
of the church (1 791- 18 11) when that 
meetinghouse was built in 1808. Note the 
Winthrop Statue at the side of this church 
(see p. 18). 

On Berkeley Street, south, at the corner 
of Newbury Street, is the Gothic Central 
Church (Congregational Trinitarian), built 

in 1867. Like the First Church this is constructed of the Roxbury 
rubble, with sandstone trimmings. Its fine spire, two hundred and 
thirty-six feet high, is the tallest in the city. It succeeds the first meet- 
inghouse of the society, which stood on Winter Street, in the heart of 
the "down-town" shopping quarter, from 1841 to 1865. 

The only church on upper Commonwealth Avenue is the structure 
with its Florentine tower, at the western corner of Clarendon Street. 
This is the First Baptist Church, descendant of the pioneer Baptist meet- 
inghouse at the North End which the then proscribed sect built in 1679, 
and which not long after was nailed up by the court officers (see p. 57). 
This edifice was originally erected (in 1873) by tne Brattle Square 
Church organization (Unitarian), to succeed the historic meetinghouse 




Leif Ekicson Statue 



So COPLEY SQUARE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 

in brattle Square (see p. 17). It was purchased by the Baptists after 
the dissolution of the Unitarian society and the sale of the church 
property by auction. The massive square stone tower, rising one hun- 
dred and seventy-six feet, with frieze of colossal bas-reliefs, gives this 
structure an especial distinction in the Back Bay architecture. The 
sculptured figures on the four sides of the frieze represent the four 
Christian eras, — baptism, communion, marriage, and death; the stat- 
ues at the angles typify the angels of the judgment blowing golden 
trumpets. These figures were cut by Italian sculptors from designs by 
Bartholdi after the stones had been set in place. 

The south corners of the avenue and Dartmouth Street are agreeably 
marked by the clubhouse of the Chilton Club, of women, and the marble 
hotel, Vendome. Farther down, on the north side, below Exeter Street, 
stands the Algonquin Clubhouse, a light stone building of striking facade, 
sumptuously designed and arranged for the club's uses. The Algonquin 
(organized in 1885) is the representative business club of the city. Near 
by, on Beacon Street, nearly opposite Exeter Street, is the University 
Clubhouse. It is especially favored by position with an outlook at the 
rear over Riverbank and the river. This club (organized in 1892), com- 
posed of college graduates resident in Boston and vicinity, is one of the 
largest of its class in the country. 

Below Exeter Street, also on the favored water side of Beacon Street, 
is the Holmes house (No. 296), the last town house of Dr. Holmes, iden- 
tified with the mellow productions of his latter years and old age, — as 
"The Poet at the Breakfast Table," "Over the Teacups," the grave 
and gay poems, " The Iron Gate," and " The Broomstick Train " on 
the advent of the trolley car. Above Exeter Street, at No. 241, was the 
latter-day home of Julia Ward Howe. 

On the avenue again, south side, just across Massachusetts Avenue, is 
the finely designed and equipped " House of the Harvard Club of Boston, 
built in 191 3," as the legend over its handsome entrance door informs. 

Copley Square and its Surroundings. Copley Square is at the junc- 
tion of Boylston Street, Huntington Avenue, Trinity Place, St. James 
Avenue, and Dartmouth Street. The cross streets, Berkeley and Clar- 
endon, are near its eastern boundary; the thoroughfare of Dartmouth 
Street makes its western bound. About the square and in its immedi- 
ate neighborhood are grouped some of the most important institutions 
of the city, with noble buildings, beautiful churches, and attractive 
hotels. Bounding the square are the Public Library, which occupies 
the entire west side ; the Copley- Plaza, the Hotel Westminster, and Trin- 
ity Church on the south side; business structures of varied architec- 
ture on the north side; and the Old South Church which marks the 



PUBLIC LIBRARY 



81 



northwest corner. On Boylston Street east of the square, beginning at 
Berkeley Street, are: on the north side, the Natural History Museum 
and the main buildings of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology ; 
on the south side, the Hotel Brunszaick. On Boylston Street west of 
the square is Jacob Sleeper Hall (dedicated March, 1908), the chief Bos- 
ton University building (see pp. 47, 70), next the Public Library and ex- 
tending to Exeter Street; on the lower corner of Exeter Street, the Hotel 
Lenox. Nearly opposite, on Exeter Street, is the Athletic Clubhouse, 
one of the largest of its class in the country. On Dartmouth Street, 
north, next beyond the New Old South Church, is the Boston Art Club- 
house, with entrance on Newbury Street. Opposite the clubhouse, on 



B E A,C O N. 



I | £ MARL? BOROU& GH STC 

u> pi r £ -i ^ 



pi 
SO 


COMMONWEALTH S 


H 


0> 

N EWB 


| J, 
URY H 


91 
ST. * 





Copley Square and Vicinity 



Dartmouth Street, is the Hotel Victoria. On Huntington Avenue, just 
outside the square, are the Hotel Nottingham, the Hotel Oxford, and the 
Copley Square Hotel. A short walk below, on Huntington Avenue, is 
the great building of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association, 
with its fine halls. From Copley Square Trinity Place leads directly to the 
Trinity Place station of the New York Central Railroad for outbound 
trains, and Dartmouth Street leads to the Back Bay station of the New 
York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad. From Huntington Avenue, at 
the corner of Irvington Street, a block below the square, is the passage 
to the Huntington Avenue station of the New York Central for inward- 
bound trains. 

The Public Library building is one of the notable architectural monu- 
ments of its day. It is built of granite of a peculiar pinkish white color, 



82 



PUBLIC LIBRARY 



the facade classic in design. Its dimensions are two hundred and 
twenty-rive feet long by two hundred and twenty-seven deep, and its 
height from the sidewalk to the top of the cornice is seventy feet. It 
is quadrangular in shape, surrounding a court, and covers with its broad 
entrance platform, exclusive of the court, an acre and a half of ground. 
The elegance of its proportions and the purity of its style are remarked 
as the chief architectural merits of the work. The statuary groups, set in 
stone blocks, representing respectively "Science" and "Art," by Bela L. 
Pratt, effectively adorn the entrance platform. Over the round arch 
which tops the main entrance appears a medallion of the seal of the 

library by Augustus St. 
Gaudens. The vestibule, 
the entrance hall with 
high vaulted ceiling, and 
the noble marble stair- 
case rising beyond are 
impressive features of 
the first floor. In the ves- 
tibule is the bronze statue 
of Sir Harry Vane, by 
Frederick MacMonnies. 
The artistically embel- 
lished bronze doors, ad- 
mitting to the entrance 
hall, were designed by Daniel C. French. In the ceiling of this hall 
are wrought names of men identified with Boston, eminent in letters, 
art, science, law, and public work. The great marble lions on either 
side of the first landing of the staircase are by Louis St. Gaudens. 
They were memorial gifts of the Second and Twentieth Regiments, 
Massachusetts Volunteers, in the Civil War. The decorations on the 
walls of the stairway and the corridor above are by Puvis de Chavannes. 
They represent, in separate panels, Philosophy, Astronomy, History, 
Chemistry, Physics, Pastoral Poetry, Dramatic Poetry, Epic Poetry, 
and finally, in one symbolic composition, " The Muses welcoming the 
Genius of Enlightenment." The decorations of the Delivery Room, 
which opens from this corridor, are by Edwin A. Abbey, and illustrate 
the legend of the Holy Grail. The walls of the corridor of the upper 
floor, familiarly known as the " Sargent Hall," have in part the decora- 
tions by John S. Sargent which in their completed form will represent 
the triumph of religion. Only the panels of the east and west walls have 
yet been finished. The subject of the first of these is the confused 
struggle in the Jewish nation between monotheism and polytheism. 




Public Library 



PUBLIC LIBRARY 



83 



That of the second is the dogma of the Redemption. The ceiling of 
the second Children's Room, on the principal floor, carries a painting 
by John Elliott representing the " Triumph of Time " ; twelve female 
figures symbolize the hours, and one male figure, Time. The Christian 
centuries are typified by twenty horses arranged in rows of four each. 
This decoration was given to the Library by citizens of Boston. The 
decorations of the lobby leading to the Children's Room from the main 
corridor are by Joseph Lindon Smith, and were given by Arthur A. 
Carey, a citizen of Boston. The lobby at the opposite end of the 
corridor leading to the Delivery Room was decorated by Elmer E. 
Garnsey. Besides its mural decora- 
tions the Library is rich in memorial 
busts and other art objects. 

The principal reading room, known 
as Bates Hall (in honor of Joshua 
Bates, who gave the Library at its 
beginning, in 1852, a fund of fifty 
thousand dollars, besides an equiva- 
lent amount in books), is in its dimen- 
sions and architectural features the 
most important apartment in the build- 
ing. It is two hundred and eighteen 
feet long, forty-two and one half feet 
wide, and fifty feet high to the crown 
of the arches. The barrel-arched ceil- 
ing is deeply paneled and ornamented 
with rosettes. In this hall are collec- 
tions of reference books and works in 
general literature, accessible to the public on open shelves. Readers are 
also served at the tables by runners, who bring from the stacks such vol- 
umes as are requested for hall use. The Children's Rooms on this floor 
are entirely devoted to the needs of young readers. Special attendants 
aid the children in the selection of books, and instruct them in the use 
of the library. Nine thousand volumes are placed on open shelves 
here, mainly the better class of "juveniles," boys' and girls' fiction, and 
books of travel and adventure written for the young. Large tables are 
provided at which the children may read by themselves. The Children's 
Reference Room is a study room, and is equipped with books intended 
to be used by young students. Children come here to write composi- 
tions, to look up topics connected with their school work, and to pre- 
pare their daily lessons. A collection of the text-books used in the 
Boston public schools is an important feature of this room, and the 




Bates Hall, Public Library 



84 PUBLIC LIBRARY 

books contained in it are alike helpful to those who have left school 
and to teachers from other places. General and special reference books 
are also shelved here, duplicating in some cases those kept in Bates 
Hall for older readers ; and there is a section of books on pedagogy and 
kindergarten methods for teachers. A novel feature is the " story hour." 

In connection with the work for children, the schools included among the 
agencies of the Library (one hundred and thirty-one public and parochial schools) 
must be mentioned. These are supplied with books either for topical reference 
or miscellaneous reading, which are usually delivered by the Library wagons and 
may be changed frequently. Each set of books is made up for the occasion, and 
the teachers' selection is followed as far as possible. The total number of vol- 
umes sent to the schools from the Central Library and Branches in 1912-1913 was 
thirty-one thousand nine hundred and seventy-eight. Each large Branch Library, 
also, regularly supplies certain neighboring schools. Applications for Library 
cards are taken by Library employees in all the schools once a year. 

On the floor below are the Patent Room, with the best collection of 
publications relating to patents to be found in the country, except that 
at Washington; the Periodical Poom, with a complete file of current 
periodicals and magazines; and the Newspaper Poom, in which over 
three hundred newspapers from all parts of the world are regularly 
received and placed on the reading files. The Department of Docu- 
ments and Statistics is in the rear part of the building, approached 
through the arcade, across the courtyard from the main-entrance cor- 
ridor. It contains a large and constantly increasing collection of sta- 
tistical works, official publications, and books relating to economic 
subjects; also many rare and valuable historical manuscripts and 
broadsides. 

On the third floor are the Special Libraries, comprising the Pine Arts 
Department, the Allen A. Brown Library of Music, and the Barton, Bar- 
low, Prince, Lewis, Bowditch, and Ticknor collections. The collections 
shelved on this floor are mainly intended for reference, and ample accom- 
modation is provided for the use of students and for research work. 
The Brown Library contains more than eight thousand volumes relating 
to music ; the Barton Collection (fourteen thousand volumes) is espe- 
cially rich in Shakespeariana, unequaled in the world, outside of two or 
three great English libraries ; and the Ticknor Library includes nearly 
seven thousand volumes of Spanish literature. These and the other 
collections designated by the names of the donors were presented to 
the Library. All of them contain many rare and exceedingly valuable 
books. The Pine Arts Department contains, besides a carefully selected 
collection of books relating to architecture, painting, and the allied arts, 
more than fifteen thousand photographs from all over the world, besides 



PUBLIC LIBRARY 85 

six thousand process pictures for the use of schools. Exhibitions are 
held regularly in a room especially devoted to this purpose, and collec- 
tions of prints are sent to the schools and to the Branch Libraries and 
deposit stations. 

On the north side of the building, opening from Boylston Street, a 
large Lecture Hall is provided, in which lectures on educational or lit- 
erary subjects are given during the winter season. 

The Boston Public Library system consists of the Central Library (this Copley 
Square building) ; thirteen Branch Libraries, in different parts of the city, each 
having permanent collections of books ; and fifteen delivery stations (of which all 
are reading rooms, formerly part service stations and shop stations). Regular de- 
posits of books are placed in one hundred and sixty-two schools and institutions, 
and sixty-one engine houses. In all, therefore, there are two hundred and fifty- 
one agencies for supplying books to the public. Regular daily wagon-delivery serv- 
ice is maintained between the Central Library and the outlying agencies. The 
administration of the Library is controlled by a board of five trustees appointed by 
the mayor, a librarian and assistant librarian, and, including chiefs of departments, 
a staff of two hundred and ninety employees for the regular service, and ninety- 
four for the Sunday and evening service. The Central Library is open daily from 
9 a.m. to 10 p.m. (on Sunday from 12 m.) in the winter, closing one hour earlier 
in the summer ; and the hours at the branches approximate this schedule, with 
some variation during the period from June to September. 

The Library comprises a collection of upward of one million volumes. About 
thirty thousand are annually added. It is a circulating library free to every resi- 
dent of Boston, and the use of the books within the Library is open to all, 
whether resident of the city or not. It is not only the second largest circulating 
and reference library in the United States, but it undertakes a greater variety of 
service than is rendered by the noted libraries of the world. By means of an 
interlibrary loan system it is serving scholarship throughout the country, its 
recorded applications for books showing a wide range of towns and cities and 
educational institutions. The annual circulation for home use approximates one 
million seven hundred and fifty thousand volumes, including the circulation from 
the branches. Besides this there is an extensive use of books in the Library itself 
of which no statistical record is kept. 

The Library maintains its own printing department and bindery. It issues a 
Weekly Bulletin of new accessions, and from time to time special bibliographies 
and other publications of importance. The annual appropriation made by the 
city for the maintenance of the institution is about $368,000. It also enjoys the 
income from about $467,000 of invested trust funds. Horace G. Wadlin is 
the present librarian. The architects of the Central Library were McKim, Mead 
& White. Its total cost, including the land, was $2,500,000. It was opened to 
the public in 1895. 

An elaborate station of the Boylston Street Subway, opening on Boyl- 
ston Street, is built in the space directly adjoining the Public Library 
and the Old South Church. 



86 



TRINITY CHURCH 



Trinity Church (Protestant Episcopal) is one of the richest examples 
of ecclesiastical architecture in the city. It was the crowning work of 
the architect, H. H. Richardson, and is called his masterpiece. Its style 

as defined by him is the 
French Romanesque, 
as freely rendered in 
the pyramidal-towered 
churches of Auvergne, 
the central tower pre- 
dominating. It is con- 
structed of yellowish 
granite, with brown 
freestone trimmings. 
The elaborate decora- 
tive work of the inte- 
rior is by John La Farge. 




"Art," Public Library 



The chapel, with open outside stairway, is connected with the church 
by the open cloister, and here are placed stones from the old St. Botolph 
Church in Boston, 
England, presented 
by the authorities of 
that church. Trinity 
Church was conse- 
crated in 1S77. Its 
predecessor was de- 
stroyed in the fire of 
1872. That stood on 
Summer Street at the 
corner of Hawley 
Street, a Gothic struc- 
ture with massive 
stone walls and 
tower. Phillips 
Brooks was rector of 
Trinity from 1869 to 
1 89 1, when he was 
made Bishop of Mas- 
sachusetts. The 
IViillips Brooks house 
near by, on the northeast corner of Clarendon and Newbury streets, 
is the rectory of the church. Trinity, founded in 1728, is the third 
P^piscopal church established in Boston. 




Trinity Church 



NEW OLD SOUTH CHURCH 



87 



The Phillips Brooks Memorial, in the green on the Huntington Avenue 
side of this church, was erected by popular subscription of citizens as a 
tribute to the beloved preacher, and passed to the care and custody of 
the corporation of Trinity by deed from the committee representing the 
subscribers. The statue is by Augustus St. Gaudens, and the canopy by 
Charles F. McKim of McKim, Mead, & White. Both are posthumous 
works, but the designs of both were practically completed 
before the death of the sculptor and the architect. The 
statue — of heroic size, representing the preacher in his 
pulpit garb and attitude, and the hooded head of Jesus 
appearing back of the figure, with the Saviour's right hand 
on the preacher's shoulder, typifying the inspirer — exhibits 
St. Gaudens' last and boldest development of his scheme 
of the dual composition, the blending of the realistic with 
the ideal, in outdoor statuary ; and as such invites and 
receives unusual attention. The 
memorial was formally unveiled on 
January 22, 1910, at the conclusion 
of dedicatory exercises within the 
church, attended by a distinguished 
audience, when Henry L. Higginson, 
chairman of the committee of citizens, 
gave the presentation address, and the 
gift was accepted for the corporation 
by the Rev. Alexander Mann, present 
rector of Trinity. 

The New Old South Church, so 
called to distinguish it from its still 
existing predecessor, the Old South Meetinghouse (Congregational 
Trinitarian), is also, like Trinity, noteworthy for richness of design and 
ornamentation in both the exterior and interior of the structure. It is in 
the North Italian Gothic style, and constructed mainly of the local Rox- 
bury stone. The great tower terminating in a pyramidal spire, composed 
of combinations of colored stones, rises two hundred and forty-eight feet. 
The main entrance through the front of the tower is richly decorated 
and recessed. Delicate carvings of vines and fruits in a belt of gray sand- 
stone ornament the facade. In the beautiful arcade between the tower 
and the south transept, across which are the words, " Behold I have 
set thee an open door," are inscribed tablets. One bears this inscrip- 
tion : "1669. Old South Church. Preserved and blessed of God for 
more than two hundred years while worshiping on its original site, cor- 
ner of Washington and Milk streets, whence it was removed to this 




New Old South Church 



88 MASSACHUSETTS INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY 

building in 1S75. amid constant proofs of his guidance and loving favor. 
Qui transtulit sustinet" Cummings & Sears were the architects. 

The Art Clubhouse, of a Romanesque style, which finishes the line of 
striking architecture along the Dartmouth Street side, was erected five 
years after the church (1880-18S1). William R. Emerson was the archi- 
tect. The Dartmouth Street entrance, under the arch of terra-cotta work, 
is the public entrance to the large art gallery, in which exhibitions are 
given in the winter and spring seasons. This club is the representative 
art club of the city, and dates from 1854. Many paintings by Boston 
artists adorn its walls. Across the square, on Clarendon Street, south, is 
the other art institution of this quarter, — the long, low, ivy-faced build- 
ing which houses Copley and Allston Halls and the Grundmann Studios. 




Natural History Museum and Technology Buildings 

Exhibitions also are features of the seasons here. In Copley Hall are 
given the annual Artists' Festivals by the Copley Society of Boston. 

The two main buildings of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology 
(founded by Professor William B. Rogers as a school of applied science, 
and chartered in 1861) occupy, together with the Natural History 
Museum, the entire square bounded by Boylston, Berkeley, Newbury, 
and Clarendon streets. They are the Rogers Building, dignified in 
design, with high portal approached by a noble flight of broad stone 
steps, and the severely plain Walker Building. In the former are the 
administrative offices of the institution and the departments of mining, 
mathematics, drawing, history, economics, and English ; in the latter, 
the departments of physics and chemistry. Other buildings, the Henry 
L. Pierce and Engineering buildings, in which are the departments of 
civil and mechanical engineering, architecture, naval architecture, biol- 
ogy, and geology, are in Trinity Place; the Workshops are in Garrison 
Street, off Huntington Avenue; and the Gymnasium is on Exeter 



NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM 89 

Street. The several buildings comprise, in addition to drawing, recita- 
tion, and lecture rooms, eight laboratories or groups of laboratories. 

In the Rogers Building is Huntington Hall, in which the Society of Arts, 
organized with the institute for the encouragement of practical applica- 
tions of the sciences, has its meetings. Here, also, are given the free 
lecture courses of the Lowell Institute (founded in 1839 by the will of 
John Lowell, Jr.). The Lowell School of Practical Design, established 
by the trustees of the Lowell Institute (1S72) for the promotion of 
industrial art in the United States, is maintained by the Institute of 
Technology in its workshops. In the rear of the main buildings, on 
Newbury Street, is the Technology Clubhouse. 

The Natural History Museum, sedate and elegant in style and finish, 
fronts on Berkeley Street. It is the building of the Boston Society of 
Natural History, founded in 1831. It was erected in 1864. Over the 
entrance door is carved the society's seal, which bears the head of 
Cuvier. On the keystones of the windows are carved heads of animals, 
and a sculptured eagle surmounts the pediment. The collections in the 
halls and galleries of this museum are interesting and valuable, and are 
admirably arranged. Upon entering, in the first hall are seen the intro- 
ductory synoptical collection and sundry important geological speci- 
mens. From the ceiling of the main hall is suspended the large 
skeleton of a whale. In the library, which contains from thirty to 
forty thousand volumes, much consulted by students, are fine mineral- 
ogical, geological, and botanical collections. On the second floor is a 
hall filled with stuffed animals, geological, physiological, and fossil cases, 
and skeletons of elephants and extinct fauna. Conspicuous is the skele- 
ton of a gorilla. In the galleries here are New England tree and shrub 
and other botanical specimens ; also conchological collections. On 
the third and fourth floors are general ornithological and ethnological 
collections, with the magnificent Lafresnaye Collection of birds, nests, 
and eggs. Lecture halls and rooms are in the building, in which instruc- 
tion is given to classes of students. The museum is open free on Wed- 
nesdays and Saturdays, and on Sunday afternoons. Other days, entrance 
fee, twenty-five cents. 

Below Copley Square, in the neighborhood of Huntington Avenue, 
are other institutions of note. On Exeter Street, two blocks north, is 
the Massachusetts Normal Art School (established by the State in 1873), 
and on opposite corners the South Congregational Church, long the pulpit 
of Edward Everett Hale, and the Boston Spiritual Temple. On Irving- 
ton Street, south of the avenue, is the South Armory, headquarters of 
the First Brigade, the First Coast Artillery Corps, the First Squadron 
of Cavalry, and Battery A, Light Artillery, of the State Militia. On 
St. Botolph Street, reached from the avenue by Garrison Street, is the 



9° 



SYMPHONY IIAI.L 



Massachusetts College of Pharmacy (chartered 1852). 

Now on Iluiitiiigtou Are imc we pass, just beyond the square, three 
hotels of note, — the Oxford, the Nottingham, and the Copley Square ; and 
a little beyond Exeter Street, the long-spreading Mechanics Building, 
headquarters of the venerable Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic 
A>sociation (instituted 1795, incorporated 1806), in the great halls of 
which industrial exhibitions are given. Here the association maintains 
an Kvening Trade School, in which youths who work during the day in 
some one of the building trades are taught the theory and practice of 
their trades. In the neighborhood, on side streets — Falmouth, Nor- 
way, and St. Paul — reached from the avenue through a beautiful park 
and garden, is the striking stone Christian Science Temple, rising to the 
lofty height of two hundred and twenty feet, topped by a magnificent 
dome, and with an auditorium of five thousand sittings. It has a me- 
lodious chime of bells, which are rung with pleasing frequency. This is 
The First Church of Christ, Scientist. — The Mother Church so called, 
generously endowed by Mrs. Eddy, the founder of this denomination. 

About the Junction of Huntington and Massachusetts Avenues. In this 
section are grouped more notable buildings, giving it a special distinc- 
tion. On the north side of Huntington Avenue, near the junction, the 
St. James Theater 
replaces Chicker- 
ing Hall. At the 
east corner of the 
two avenues is 
Horticultural Hall, 
the fine building of 
the Massachusetts 
Horticultural So- 
ciety (organized 
1 829), in which great 
exhibitions of flow- 
ers and fruits are 
held in their sea- 
sons. The opposite 
corner is marked 
by Symphony Hall, successor of the old Music Hall as a "temple of 
music," where the concerts of the Boston Symphony Orchestra and 
the oratorios of the Handel and Haydn Society are given; also the 
early summer " Pop " concerts. 

Nearly opposite, on Huntington Avenue, at the corner of Gainsborough 
Street, is the building of the New England Conservatory of Music 




Horticultural Hall 



BOSTON OPERA HOUSE 



9 1 




Symphony Hall 



(established in 1867), the greatest institution of its kind in the country, 

embracing sixteen separate schools. In its entrance hall stands the statue of 

Beethoven by Crawford, 

originally in the old «i 

Music Hall. 

Through We st la /id 
Avenue, north of the 
junction of Huntington 
and Massachusetts ave- 
nues, the Back Bay Fens 
may be reached. Here, 
at Hemenway Street, is 
the Western entrance, 
with the Memorial Foun- 
tain in commemoration 
of Ellen C. Johnson, 

superintendent of the State Reformatory School for Women at Sherborn, 
who left by her will a fund for the erection of a drinking font for animals. 
Huntington Avenue and about the Fens. Continuing along Huntington 
Avenue, we pass other buildings of note in succession, and soon come 
upon a noble assemblage of institutions, — museums, colleges, schools, 

hospitals, — housed in 
monumental structures 
about the upper Fens. 

Next beyond the Con- 
servatory of Music rises 
the great building of the 
Boston Young Men's 
Christian Association, the 
principal featureof which 
is its facade — the broad, 
arched main entrance. 

On the right side of 
the avenue is the Boston 
Opera House, with simple, 
dignifi ed f acade, — a Bos- 
ton institution for the presentation of operas by its own organization 
throughout the regular season. On the left side, No. 410, is the building 
of the Tufts College Medical and Dental Departments (the seat of Tufts 
College is College Hill, Medford). On the right side, again, we have the 
impressive Boston Museum of Fine Arts, with Cyrus E. Dallin's symbolic 
statue, "The Appeal to the Great Spirit," facing the entrance court. 




Boston Opera House 



91 A 



MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS 



The Museum of Fine Arts (incorporated 1870, first opened 1876), 
with facade in classical style, marked by extreme simplicity and dignity, 
is the second structure of the institution, erected in 1 907-1 909, and for- 
mally opened in November, 1909. In its general scheme the building 
embodies the results of three years' studies of the principal museums 
of Europe and of modern museology, made by advisory committees 

composed of artists and 
architects, in connection 
with the director and the 
museum staff ; and the 
principles governing the 
arrangement of the rooms 
and exhibits, though not 
wholly new, are applied 
with a consistency and 
thoroughness that are dis- 
tinctly new. The classifi- 
cation is by what is termed 
the dual system, providing 
a compact exhibition in 
rooms on the main floor 
and reserved collections 
for study on the floor be- 
low. Each department 
comprises a series of rooms 
with independent ap- 
proaches, and the arrange- 
ment of the exhibits of each department is historical and chronological. 
The main floor is occupied by the galleries of five departments, — 
Pictures, Egyptian Art, Classical Art, Western Art, Chinese and Jap- 
anese Art, — and the Library. Waymarks of different colors, and 
each with a section map, direct the visitor to the circuits in all these 
departments, which begin in the corridors from the rotunda, to the 
right and left, at the top of the main stairway. The department of 
Paintings occupies the whole north side of the main floor (the circuit 
beginning at the right of the rotunda through the corridor of paint- 
ings and drawings), and one room, devoted to paintings on panels, on 
the ground floor. On the walls of the corridor are water colors by 
Burne-Jones, Troyon, Barye, Millet, and Joseph Lindon Smith ; draw- 
ings by Millet, Rodin, and others. At the left of the corridor opens a 
small gallery, which, together with the east gallery adjoining, is at 
present vacant. The East Gallery will be hung with Impressionists and 




Museum of Fine Arts 



MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS 91 B 

other pictures in high key. The gallery adjoining the corridor, and 
the long gallery adjacent will contain the large paintings by Le Rolle, 
Regnault, Lhermitte, and others, as well as modern American paintings. 
Crossing the rotunda, the circuit enters the Early American Room. 
Here are canvases by Copley, Stuart, West, and Trumbull, including 
the familiar heads of " Washington and his Wife," originally in the 
Boston Athenaeum, and the portraits of Samuel Adams, Hancock, 
and General Knox, originally in Faneuil Hall. In the next room are 
Roman interiors by Pannini, two paintings by Boucher, — " Going to 
Market" and "The Return from Market"; Turner's "Slave Ship"; 
and examples of the work of Chardin, Greuze, Duplessis, Philippe de 
Champaigne, Wilson, Sir Thomas Lawrence, Constable, Romney, Opie, 
Leslie, Crome, Bonnington, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Sir Henry 
Raeburn. Next is the Flemish and Dutch Seventeenth Century Room, 
showing Van Dyck's " Charles I and Henrietta Maria with their Chil- 
dren, afterwards Charles II and James II," and the "Portrait of Anna 
Maria de Schodt " ; Rembrandt's " Danae," " Portrait of an Old Man," 
and " Portraits of Dr. and Mrs. Nicholas Tulp " ; " Portrait of a Lady," 
by Franz Hals, and examples of the work of Santvoort, d'Hondecoeter, 
Van Goyen, Peter de Hoogh, Molenaer, Huysum, Teniers, Willem 
Kalf, Maas, Van Vliet, Ruysdael, Koninck, Thys, Rubens ( " Marriage 
of St. Catharine"), Metsu, Cuyp, Van der Velde, and Murant. The 
West Gallery, devoted to Spanish and Italian sixteenth century paint- 
ings, contains Borrasso's " Coronation of the Virgin," given by Dr. 
Denman W. Ross in memory of the late Samuel Dennis Warren ; 
Goya's " Portrait of a Man " (a recent gift) ; " The Philosopher," by 
Ribera; Velazquez's "Philip IV of Spain" and "Don Balthazar Car- 
los"; "Fray Feliz," by El Greco; "Infanta Maria Theresa," by Car- 
reno ; " Portrait of the Artist's Son," by Goya ; " The Crown of Thorns," 
by Ribera ; " A Sibyl " and " Justice " by Veronese ; " The Scourging 
of Christ," by Bassano ; " Apotheosis of a Poet," by Tiepolo ; and ex- 
amples of the work of Sustermans, Tinelli, Solario, and Moroni. In 
the Panel Room, on the ground floor, we have Crivelli's " Pieta " ; an 
altarpiece by Bartolomeo Vivarini ; " St. Luke drawing the Portrait of 
the Madonna," by Rogier van der Weyden ; a triptych by Sano di 
Pietro ; and examples of the work of Gozzarelli, Peruzzi, Bellini, Wohl- 
gemuth, Timoteo della Vite, School of Botticelli, and the Venetian 
School. 

The department of Egyptian Art, one of the largest of the Museum, 
occupies a series of rooms in the eastern wing, reached by a corridor 
from the rotunda. The Hall of the Mastabas is first entered. Here are 
objects of great interest from the Prehistoric and Old Empire Period, 



91 C MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS 

and sculpture of the Middle and Early New Empire. The Mastaba 
Chambers are from the group of tombs at Sakkara and are fine speci- 
mens of the wall decorations of Dynasty V. From this hall opens a 
room containing the Way Collection (given by C. Granville Way in 
1S72), comprising many small objects of great interest, among them a 
series of scarabs classified according to subjects or dynasty. Next is the 
New Empire Room, containing objects dating in general from the 
Middle and New Empires. Thence the circuit passes into a small room 
containing in a case a garment of cut leather dating from the reign of 
Thothmes IV, 1 436-1 427 i?.c. Next, the Ptolemaic Room, displaying 
a varied collection, with examples of Coptic textiles. The department 
of Classical Art adjoins that of Egyptian Art. At the north end of the 
corridor leading to it is a colossal statue of Cybele. Its circuit begins 
with the Archaic Room. This contains small bronzes, vases of stone 
and pottery, terra-cotta figures of the sixth and early fifth centuries 
representing scenes from daily life. Next, the Fifth Century Room. 
This is so arranged as to lead up to one of the Museum's most prized 
objects, — the three-sided marble relief at the end. Here are terra-cotta 
vases, gems and jewelry, superb bronze vessels, one of them an early 
Greek basin with fine figures constituting its handles. In connecting 
small rooms are the finer marbles: the head of Aphrodite (of the 
Francis Bartlett collection, the largest gift of works of art ever received 
by the Museum) ; the youthful Hermes ; the late Greek torso of a 
maid; and, exhibited under glass, a beautiful head of a girl, found in 
Chios and conjectured to have been possibly by Praxiteles. Next, the 
Fourth Century Room, the chief exhibit of which is a series of small 
terra-cotta figures. Finally, the Late Greek Room, with more terra-cotta 
figurines and bronzes. In the balcony of the court stand marbles of the 
Graeco-Roman period. 

The department of Weston Art occupies a series of galleries beginning 
with the Western Art Corridor at the left of the staircase and continu- 
ing through the Nearer Orient Room, the Tapestry Gallery, the Six- 
teenth, Seventeenth, and Eighteenth Century rooms, the Eighteenth 
Century Vestibule, and the Library Corridor, and including the Brem- 
garten and Lawrence rooms on the ground floor. The collection em- 
braces specimens of all the arts developed in Europe and the Nearer 
Orient, or under European influence since classical times. Objects of 
aboriginal American and African workmanship are also included. The 
department of Chinese and Japanese Art is in the west wing, reached by 
the Japanese Corridor. The museum collection of this class is the larg- 
est and finest in the world, and only a small proportion can be exhibited 
here at one time, the bulk being stored on the floor below. In the 



MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS 91D 

Japanese display are rich specimens of metal work, ivory and wood 
carving, costumes, and lacquer, the latter being especially noteworthy. 
The elaborate Morse Collection of Japanese Pottery, which gives a more 
complete representation of the fictile art of Japan than all other exist- 
ing collections combined, occupies a gallery by itself at the left of the 
main entrance of the building. 

The Library, dignified, in virtue of its endowment by a generous 
friend, by the title of the '■'•William Morris Hunt Memorial Library" 
is a beautiful hall, its upper walls hung with tapestries and adorned 
with pictures, notably the large " Boar Hunt " by Snyders. Next to the 
Reading Room is the Photograph Collection, including some thirty 
thousand photographs representing the sculpture, painting, and archi- 
tecture of Europe, the Nearer Orient, and Japan. The Print Department 
occupies a suite of rooms on the ground floor, with a Study Room ad- 
joining. Selections from the Museum's great collection of Casts are 
shown in the two large courts and adjacent rooms. In the basement of 
the west wing is a public restaurant. The Museum School is housed in 
a separate building of a single story, built around two courtyards. Here 
all the classes and departments are together under one management. 
The entrance corridor is hung with envois from students who have held 
the Paige Travelling Scholarship which entitles the holder to two 
years' study of art in Europe. 

The Museum School gives instruction in drawing and painting, in modeling 
and design, with supplementary courses in artistic anatomy and perspective. 

The first suggestion of a public establishment in Boston to be devoted wholly 
to the fine arts was the result of a wish to make more accessible to the public 
several collections of works of art already existing in the Athenaeum, at Harvard 
College, and at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. 

The Museum has been wholly dependent upon private liberality for its crea- 
tion and maintenance. It is managed by a board of thirty trustees, of whom 
three are appointed by Harvard College, three by the Boston Athenaeum, and 
three by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. There are five ex-officio 
members, of whom three, including the mayor, represent the city of Boston. The 
remainder of the board are those first named in the act of incorporation and 
those chosen by the board to fill vacancies in its number. The president of the 
corporation is Gardiner M. Lane ; director of the Museum, Arthur Fairbanks. 
The Museum is open every day in the year excepting the Fourth of July, 
Thanksgiving Day, and Christmas ; on week days, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (November 1 
to March 1, 4 p.m.) ; Sundays, 12 M. to 5 p.m. Admission is free on every Sat- 
urday and Sunday and on public holidays. On other days the entrance fee is 
twenty-five cents. 

The architect of the present building was Guy Lowell. An addition facing the 
Fenway was erected in 191 3. 



91 E 



SIMMONS COLLEGE 



Just beyond the Art Museum, on the opposite side of the avenue, at 
the corner of Ruggles Street, is the Wentworth Institute, a school of - the 
mechanical arts," with day and evening courses, incorporated in 1904, and 

provided for in the will 
of Arioch Wentworth, 
a Boston merchant. 
Ruggles Street north- 
ward leads into the 
Fens, and directly to 
Fenway Court, which 
contains the rich col- 
lection of works of art 
belonging to the Isa- 
bella Stuart Gardner 
Museum corporation. 
Next beyond this Ve- 
netian structure are 
the buildings of Sim- 
mons College (chartered 1899), established by the will of John Simmons, 
a Boston merchant, to furnish instruction in "such branches of art, sci- 
ence, and industry" as will "best enable women to earn an independent 
livelihood." 

Back of Fenway Court, facing or near the Fenway road at its junction 
with Huntington Avenue, is the fine cluster of Boston school buildings 




The Gardnfk Museum of Art 




Harvard Mfbical School 

of the higher grade, — the Girls' Latin, the Boston Normal, and the High 
School of Commerce. 

Next beyond Simmons College the broad, tree-framed crossroad — 
the Avenue Louis Pasteur — leads, to the left, to the noble group of 



HARVARD MEDICAL SCHOOL 



91 F 



five marble structures constituting the Harvard University School of Medi- 
cine, on Longwood Avenue^ and the " white city " of hospitals in this 
quarter, of which the Medical School is the center. The approach by the 
Avenue Pasteur has the group in full view, — the central, white-pillared 
Administration Building, facing an open court, and the laboratory 
buildings on either side. The Administration Building is reached from 
the Longwood Avenue entrances by broad terraced stone walks. In 
this building, occupying the three upper floors, is the Warren Anatomi- 
cal Museum, founded in 1847, tne original collection of which was given 
by Dr. John Collins Warren, professor of anatomy and surgery in the 
School from 1S15 to 1847, succeeding his father, who was the first to 
hold that position upon its establishment. The four buildings designed 
for laboratory purposes are all constructed on one general plan, — two 
parallel wings united by an amphitheater. Above each amphitheater is 
a departmental library. The group occupy eleven acres. Their construc- 
tion and equipment were provided for by generous contributions from 
J. Pierpont Morgan, John D. Rockefeller, David Sears, Mrs. Collis P. 
Huntington, and other benefactors of Harvard. It is the statement of 
the Harvard University Catalogue that " these buildings provide an 
equipment for teaching and research in various branches of medical 
science which as a whole is probably unequalled." 

The Harvard University Dental School and Hospital, with stately marble 
entrance porch, adjacent to the Medical School, is now used for hospital 
purposes only ; a subway connects it with the Medical School, where 
the lectures are given. The buildings on the north side of the Medical 
School, the central one with lofty pillared entrance porch, and domed, 
comprise the Children's and Infants' hospitals. Back of and opposite the 
rear entrance of the Medical School, spreading along the line of Vandyke 
Street from the juncture of Huntington Avenue and Francis Street, is 
the great Peter Bent Brigham Hospital, opened in 191 3, provided for and 
richly endowed by the will of Peter B. Brigham, a long-time restaurateur 
and hotel proprietor in Boston. At the east corner of Vandyke Street 
and Huntington Avenue, and on the Medical School grounds, is the 
Collis P. Huntington Memorial Hospital for Cancer, erected by the Cancer 
Commission of Harvard University, and opened in 1912. South of 
Huntington Avenue, on Parker Hill, is the Robert Bent Brigham Hospital. 
Near neighbors to these important institutions, northward, are the 
Channing Home for Consumptive Women on Pilgrim Road, corner of Francis 
Street, and the New England Deaconess Hospital on Pilgrim Road. 

We may return by way of Brookline Avenue, taking an Ipswich Street 
car, and pass on this side of the Fens. The church suggestive of colo- 
nial architecture, on Peterborough and Jersey streets, is the Church of 



9 i G 



MASSACHUSETTS HISTORICAL SOCIETY 



the Disciples (Unitarian), successor of the meetinghouse at the South 
End of the city, for nearly fifty years the pulpit of James Freeman 
Clarke, who founded this church in 1S41 as a free church, all expenses 
to be met by voluntary subscriptions. 

By the Fenway route we have a rural walk, with pleasing vistas, wind- 
ing through the most charming sections of the park. Soon we pass 
the beautiful Fenway front of the Art Museum. A short distance 
beyond, at the junction of Park Street and the Fenway, the Forsythe 
Dental Infirmary for Children presents its classic facade. Passing the 
broad roadway that a little farther on makes off to the left, and keeping 
to the Fenway, or taking the inner pathway which ultimately joins it, 
we are shortly in the grove of poplars near by the junction of the Fen- 
way and Boylston Street. Here is the little monument to John Boyle 

O'Reilly, the Irish poet, 
editor, and athlete, erected 
in 1897; Daniel C.French, 
sculptor. 

On the Fenway near 
Boylston Street is the 
handsome house of the 
Boston Medical Library 
(founded in 1874), orna- 
menting the street. The 
principal reading room is Holmes Hall, named for Dr. Oliver Wendell 
Holmes and adorned with mementos of him. His own valuable medical 
library is preserved in the general collection of this library, the fourth 
in size of the medical libraries of the country. There is here the Storer 
collection of medical medals, remarkable in its variety and extent. 

At the corner of the Fenway and Boylston Street, facing the latter, is 
the house of the Massachusetts Historical Society (founded in 1791), the 
oldest historical society in the country, and probably in the world. This 
distinguished building was designed by Wheelwright & Haven, and 
was erected by the society in 1 897-1 899. It contains the society's rare 
library of forty-three thousand volumes, enriched with historical docu- 
ments and manuscripts. Over the entrance to the Dowse Library are 
the crossed swords which used to rest above the library of William II. 
Prescott, and to which Thackeray alludes in the opening of "The Vir- 
ginians." The cabinet museum of curios contains numerous interesting 
objects, among them the wooden Indian which topped the old Province 
House and the cannon ball which struck the Brattle Square Church 
during the Siege. The model of the historic meetinghouse is in the 
upper hall. The museum is open on Wednesday afternoons only, from 




Westland Avenue Entrance to the Fens 



CHARLESGATE 91 h 

2 to 5. The chief function of this society is to publish, and it has 
issued infinitely more publications than any other historical society in 
this country, — more than all the other societies combined, — the num- 
ber approaching two hundred. Charles Francis Adams is the present 
president of the society, and Dr. Samuel A. Green has long been the 
librarian. The American Academy of Arts and Sciences (founded in 
1780) is also located in this building. 

From the grove of poplars we take a circling course westward and 
northwestward, to the end of the Fenway at Charlesgate and Common- 
wealth Avenue. From the bridge over Ipswich Street and the railroad 
we see, to the left, the Park Riding School building on Ipswich Street, 
and next beyond this, Fenway Park, the great baseball arena (American 
League), occupying ample grounds, with a 
seating capacity of some thirty-five thousand. 
We can approach this arena for a nearer 
view, or a visit, by the flight of steps at the 
side of the bridge leading down to Ipswich 
Street. The main entrance is on Jersey 
Street. 

Effectively placed at the turn of the 
Fenway by Charlesgate, and facing Com- 
monwealth Avenue, is the memorial to 

Patrick A. Collins, another worthy Irish- JoHN BoYLE O'Reilly 
. . , ... Monument 

American; orator and statesman, in national, 

state, and city service, ending his public career as a mayor of Boston. 

This is the work of Henry H. Kitson and his wife, Alice Ruggles Kitson, 

and was placed in 1908. 

Charlesgate is the passage through which Muddy River, coming over 
from Brookline through the Fens, empties into the Charles River ; and 
the streets on either side are Charlesgate East and Charlesgate West. 

A block west of Charlesgate West, at the junction of Commonwealth 
Avenue and Beacon Street, is seen the frame of the entrance to the 
Boylston Street Subway, which passes under Commonwealth Avenue 
and Massachusetts Avenue, by the north side of the steam railroad 
tracks, to and through Boylston, east. 

On Charlesgate East and Commonwealth Avenue is the sumptuous 
Hotel Somerset ; and adjoining this, on the Commonwealth Avenue 
front, the equally sumptuous Hotel Puritan. In the same line, near the 
Massachusetts Avenue corner, is the handsome house of the Harvard 
Club of Boston, before mentioned (see p. 80). 

Massachusetts Avenue (see p. 75) is the great artery through this 
quarter of the Back Bay, north and south. It extends by the Harvard 



92 



THE SOUTH END 



Bridge across the Charles River into Cambridge. The church at the 
corner of the avenue and Beacon Street is the Mount Vernon Church 
(Congregational Trinitarian), successor of the church on Ashburton Place 
Beacon Hill, now the Boston University Law School building (see p. 47). 
The church organization dates from 1842. At either side of the Harvard 
Bridge are approaches to the Riverbank and Esplanade (see p. 73). The 
Riverway is ultimately to be carried westward to Cottage Farms, near 
the Brookline Street Bridge to Cambridge. 

The quarter west of Massachusetts Avenue, the newer residential 
part, with broad thoroughfares and cross streets and fine dwellings, is 
colloquially termed the " New Back Bay." Bay State Road, making off 
from Charlesgate West to the riverside, is especially noticeable for its 
interesting display of varied types of domestic architecture. 

Commonwealth Avenue of this quarter, beyond the intersection of 
Brookline Avenue, presents a number of architecturally notable quasi- 
public structures. Most conspicuous is the white-walled and white- 
domed Temple Israel, the stateliest Hebrew church in Boston. 

Toward the westerly end of this " New Back Bay," on Audubon 
Circle, with westerly frontage on Audubon Road, is the strikingly de- 
signed Second Church (Congregational Unitarian), erecting in 1913, in 
the English Georgian style, with parish house adjoining; Cram, Good- 
hue, and Ferguson, architects. This is the seventh edifice of the Second 
Church, and the sixth in line from the historic Old North Church in 
North Square, used for fuel during the Siege of Boston (see p. 58). In 
this meetinghouse will be restored the memorials of former ministers, — 
Cotton Mather's pulpit chair, the portrait of John Lathrop, the bust of 
Ralph Waldo Emerson (by Sidney H. Morse), and the tablet to Chandler 
Robbins, —which embellished the interior of its immediate predecessor 
that stood on Copley Square where now is the Wesleyan Building. 

6. The South End 

The South End is now a faded quarter. Like the Back Bay it is 
composed largely of "made land." It was developed from the narrow 
neck connecting the old town with Roxbury, and was planned and 
built up on a generous scale to become the permanent fashionable part 
of the city. Such favor it was enjoying when the lavish development 
of the Back Bay began, and fashion was not long in turning from it and 
moving westward. With all its air of having seen better days, however, 
this quarter still has attractions. Its streets are broad, some are shaded 
with fine trees; numerous small parks are scattered through it; many of 
the houses are yet substantial dwellings, with a look of roominess within; 



BOSTON CITY HOSPITAL 



93 



and various important institutions are established within its borders. 
The latter most interest the visitor. 

Among the most noteworthy of these institutions are the Public Latin 
and English High Schools, on Warren Avenue, Dartmouth and Mont- 
gomery streets ; the Girls' High School, West Newton Street ; the Boston 
College (Roman Catholic, founded in i860), Harrison Avenue (No. 761), 
near East Newton Street ; the great Boston City Hospital, with its twenty- 
six buildings (a group of nineteen constituting the City Hospital proper, 
and a group of seven, in the South Department, for infectious diseases), 
occupying lands bounded by Harrison Avenue, East Concord Street, 
Albany Street, and Massachusetts Avenue ; and the group of buildings 
of the Massachusetts 
Homeopathic Hospital, 
with the School of Medi- 
cine (connected with 
Boston University), on 
East Concord Street 
and Harrison Avenue. 

Of the churches of 
the quarter the stone 
Cathedral of the Holy 
Cross (Roman Catho- 
lic), on Washington 
Street, at the corner of 
Maiden Street, is the 
greatest. It is the 
largest Catholic church in New England, and in some respects the 
finest. It is in the early English Gothic style. The interior is richly 
designed and embellished. The arch of the front vestibule is con- 
structed of bricks from the ruins of the Ursuline Convent on Mount 
Benedict (now leveled) in Somerville, which was burned by a mob on 
the night of August 11, 1834. In the front yard of the edifice is the 
bronze statue of Columbus, by Alois Buyens (a replica of the San 
Domingo monument), erected in 1S92. In the rear, on the corner of 
Union Park Street and Harrison Avenue, are the chief offices of the 
archdiocese. The archbishop's house is on Bay State Road, Back Bay 
District. Another South End Catholic church of note is the Church of 
the Immaculate Conception, on Harrison Avenue and East Concord 
Street (by the side of Boston College). The interior of this church is 
also rich in ornamentation. 

Of the older Protestant churches several have become "institutional 
churches," with numerous and varied helpful activities. Such are the 




A Typical Children's Playground 



94 



EAST BOSTON 



Union Church on Columbus Avenue and West Newton Street ; the 
Shawmut Church, on Tremont Street; and the Warren Avenue Baptist 
Church, on Warren Avenue and West Canton Street. The Denison House 
(College Settlement) is at 93 Tyler Street, and the South End House at 
20 Union Park Street. Churches still retaining the old parish methods 
are the Second Universalist Church and the First Presbyterian Church, 
both on Columbus Avenue; the Clarendon Street Baptist Church, on 
Clarendon and Montgomery streets; and the Tremont Street Methodist 
Church, on Tremont and Concord streets. On Berkeley Street, No. 41, 
is the admirable Franklin Union, with its industrial school, established 
from the fund created by Benjamin Franklin's bequest to Boston. The 
decorative mural panels in the entrance hall, illustrating scenes in 
Franklin's life, by Charles E. Mills, deserve attention. 

The East Armory (East Newton Street), Ninth Regiment of Infantry, 
and the Cadet Armory (Columbus Avenue), First Corps of Cadets, are 
in this quarter. Near the Roxbury line (Walpole Street off Columbus 
Avenue) are the Walpole-Street Baseball grounds (National League). 

Washington and Tremont streets and Shawmut and Columbus avenues 
are the great thoroughfares south. Columbus Avenue opens at Park 
Square. Here is the Emancipation Group, commemorating the freeing of 
the slaves by President Lincoln (Thomas Ball, sculptor), erectedin 1879 — 
the gift of Moses Kimball, long the owner of the old Boston Museum. 

7. The Outlying Districts 

East Boston on its islands is a place of steamship docks and of great 
manufactories. In the days of wooden ships it was a center of ship- 
yards, whence fine craft were launched. Here were built splendid clipper 




Castle Island, Marine Park 
ships for the California service in the gold-digging days. Now its at- 
tractions for the visitor are slight, although several of its hill streets are 
pleasant, andwide harbor viewsopenfromvarious points. Belmont Square, 
on Camp Hill, marks the site of the fort erected in the Revolutionary 
period, and perhaps also the site of the fortified house of Samuel Maverick, 
the earliest white settler, in 1630. Wood Island Park, of the Metropoli- 
tan Parks System, lies on the harbor or south side of the main island. 



MARINE PARK 



95 




Head House, Marine Park 



South Boston has also become a great industrial center and a place of 
shipping docks. Its points of popular interest to-day consist of the 
remnant of Dorchester Heights, — Telegraph Hill, — upon which is the 
monument "perpetuating the erection of American fortifications that 
forced the British to evacu- 
ate Boston, March 17, 1776"; 
and the beautiful water- 
front esplanade, the Marine 
Park, of the Boston Public 
Parks System, with its hand- 
somely housed Aquarium. 
These are all at the east end 
of the district locally 
known as "The Point." 
In the Marine Park is the 
admirable statue of Farra- 
gut, in bronze, by H. H. Kit- 
son. This was erected in 1893. 
City Point is a favorite yacht- 
ing station, and several yacht 

clubhouses are situated here. Off the Point is the United States Life- 
Saving Station. In the lower part of the district the Lawrence school- 
house on West Third Street marks the site of Nook Hill, the historic in- 
terest of which is disclosed in the inscription on a tablet here. On North- 
ern Avenue are the railroad docks and the great Commonwealth Pier. 
The Roxbury District also has interesting landmarks of the Revolu- 
tion. These are the Roxbury forts, near Highland Street, in the neigh- 
borhood of Eliot Square, with its century- 
old meetinghouse of the " First Religious 
Society in Roxbury" (dating from 1632), 
on the site of the first rude structure in 
which John Eliot preached for more than 
forty years. Roxbury Upper Fort is 
marked by the lofty ornate white water 
pipe, on the hill of Highland Park, between 
Beach Glen and Fort avenues. The lines 
of the fort are indicated, and it is fittingly 
marked by a tablet. The site of the Lower Fort, a short distance 
northward, is pointed out in the yard of a dwelling on Highland Street. 
These forts, built by General Harry Knox, under the direction of Gen- 
eral Thomas, crowned the Roxbury lines of investment during the Siege 
of Boston. Highland Street, which leads from Eliot Square, is most 



\ - 




^ 


- " "j 




. 




........ -L_ 

F16C 1 




. 






♦" 1 



Tablet at "Nook Hill" 



9 6 



ROXBURY AM) WEST ROXBURY DISTRICTS 



interesting as the last home of Edward Everett Hale, in a broad, roomy, 
old-time house (Xo. 39). On this street also was " Rockledge," the 
home of William Lloyd Garrison through his later years. On Warren 
Street, not far from the Dudley Street station, is the site of the 
birthplace of General Joseph Warren, now covered by a stone house 
built in 1S46 by Dr. John Collins Warren "as a permanent memorial 
of the spot." In the neighboring square is the statue of Warren, by Paul 
W. Bartlett, placed in 1904. Near by, on Kearsarge Avenue, was the 
home of Rear Admiral John A. Winslow of the Kearsarge which destroyed 
the Alabama in the Civil War. Here also is the Roxbury Latin School, 
only ten years the junior of the Boston Latin School, having been es- 
tablished in 1645. Of this 
school Warren was a 
master when he was but 
nineteen years old. Near 
the old Boston line, at 
the corner of Washing- 
ton and Eustis streets, 
is the ancient burying 
ground in which are the 
tombs of John Eliot and 
of the Dudleys, — Gov- 
ernor Thomas Dudley 
(died 1653), Governor 
Joseph Dudley (1720), 
Chief Justice Dudley 
(1752), and Colonel 
William Dudley (1743). 
In the western part of this district is Franklin Park, the largest single 
park in the Boston City Parks System. 

The West Roxbury District contains memorials of Theodore Parker, 
and embraces " Brook Farm," the place of the experiment in socialism 
by the Brook Farm Community of literary folk in 1S41-1847, and the 
scene of Hawthorne's " Blithedale Romance." The old First Parish 
meetinghouse with its Wren tower, on Centre Street, locally known as 
the Theodore Parker Church, from Parker's nine years ministry here, re- 
mained, though long unused and dismantled, a cherished landmark till 
1913. In front of its successor, a little farther up Centre Street, is a fine 
bronze statue of Parker. Farther along this main street, at the corner of Cot- 
tage Avenue, Parker's residence yet stands, — now occupied as the parish 
house of a neighboring Catholic church. Brook Farm is but little changed 
in its outward aspect. It lies about a mile distant from Spring Street 




Path in the Wilderness, Franklin Park: 



DORCHESTER DISTRICT 



97 



station on the railroad (by way of Baker Street). The Stony Brook Reser- 
vation of the Metropolitan Farks System is in this district. Forest Hills 
Cemetery, one of the most beautiful of modern burying grounds, is in 
another part of the district, close by the terminus of the Elevated Line 
at Forest Hills and the Forest Hills station of the steam railroad. Here 
are the graves or tombs of General Joseph Warren, Rear Admirals 
Winslow and Thacher, William Lloyd Garrison, John Gilbert, the actor, 
Martin Milmore, the sculptor, and many others of distinction. At Mil- 
more's grave is the monument representing the Angel of Death stay- 
ing the hand of the sculptor, an exceptionally fine piece of sculpture by 
Daniel C. French. Jamaica Plain, in which are the Arnold Arboretum and 
Olmsted Park of the Boston City Parks System, is a part of this district. 

The Dorchester District is now essentially a place of homes. It em- 
braces a series of hills, several of them commanding pleasant water 
views. Meetinghouse Hill, in the southern part, is crowned with a fine 
example of the New England meetinghouse of the early nineteenth 
century, in direct descent from the first meetinghouse of 163 1. At 
Upham's Corner, on Dudley Street and Columbia Road, is the ancient 
burying ground, one of the most interesting in the country. Among the 
distinguished tombs here are those of Lieutenant Governor William 
Stoughton, chief justice of the court before which the witchcraft trials 
at Salem were held, and Richard Mather, the founder of the Mather 
family in New England. There are a number of imposing tablets. 

The Brighton District was once the great cattle mart of New England, 
and famous also for its extensive market gardens and nurseries. A few 
of the latter remain, but the district is mainly a residential section. On 
Charles River side it has a speedway, and a children's playground and 
outdoor gymnasium. 

The Hyde Park District is the most rural of the outlying ones. A part 
of the Stony Brook Reservation, Metropolitan Parks System, lies within 
its borders. 




Looking Down Commonwealth Avenue 



9 8 



CAMBRIDCK 



II. THE METROPOLITAN REGION 

The thirty-eight cities and towns comprising with modern Boston the 
Metropolitan District (see Plate V), all lying in the " Boston Basin " 
(see p. 3), or touched by a circle with a radius of fifteen miles from the 
State House, are : 

Cities — Cambridge, Chelsea, Everett, Lynn, Maiden, Medford, Mel- 
rose, Newton, Quincy. Somerville, Waltham, and Woburn. 

Towns — Arlington, Belmont, Braintree, Brookline, Canton, Dedham, 
Hingham, Hull. Lexington, Milton, Xahant, Xeedham, Reading, Revere, 
Saugus, Stoneham, Swampscott, Wakefield, Watertown, YVellesley, Wes- 
ton, Westwood, Weymouth, Winchester, and Winthrop. 

All of these places, with the exception of Hull and Nahant, are within 
the suburban districts of the railroads terminating in Boston, and are 
embraced in the electric-railway system. 



CAMBRIDGE AND HARVARD 

Harvard Square is our destination. The quickest way to reach it is, of 
course, by the Cambridge Subway from Park Street (see p. 36). The 
trip is thus accomplished in less than fifteen minutes. But in the Sub- 
way there are only two stations between Park Street and Harvard Square. 

To see Cambridge, 




therefore, below Har- 
vard Square in detail, 
the outward trip should 
be made by surface car. 
We have choice of vari- 
ous routes. Lines pass- 
ing through Charles 
Street or by way of 
Bowdoin Square cross 
the Cambridge Bridge, 
over which the Subway 
trains pass. Others are from the Boston Subway (Park Street station, 
south bound) via Harvard Bridge; via the Brookline Street Bridge 
farther up the river; and (Park station, north bound) via the Viaduct 
at the Charles River Dam — the old Craigie Bridge. 

The surface cars going over the Cambridge Bridge pass through lower 
Cambridgeport. The river crossed, a busy quarter is entered, a region 



Athex.eum Press 
First Street, near Cambridge Bridge 



HARVARD UNIVERSITY 



99 




City Hall 



of factories and workshops, among which is notable the great Athenaeum 
Press of Ginn and Company, near the river. The Viaduct route is through 
East Cambridge. In East Cambridge are passed the Middlesex County 
Court House and other buildings. 
By the Brookline Street Bridge 
route (cars marked Broadway, 
Brookline Street, via Cottage 
Farms) one has an agreeable ride 
on the Boston side, skirting the 
" New Back Bay," while on the 
Cambridge side the way is through 
the heart of upper Cambridgeport, 
and into old Cambridge by Broad- 
way. In the "port" yet remain 
a landmark or two of interest. 
Such is the old house in which 
Washington Allston once lived, on 
Magazine Street, cornerof Auburn 

Street. Up on Broadway are passed a distinguished group of institu- 
tions, — the Latin School and the English High School, the Public Library, 

and the Rindge 
Manual Training 
School, the latter 
the gift of Fred- 
erick H. Rindge. 
The Harvard 
Bridge route 
passes the City 
Hall, also a gift 
from Mr. Rindge; 
nearby is the 
marked site of 
General Israel 
Putnam's head- 
quarters during 
the Siege of Bos- 
ton. However, 
should we go out 
by this route (car 

marked " Harvard Square "), let us suppose that, with our minds fixed 
on the Harvard University, we remain in the car until, rounding a 
corner, we come upon Beck Hall. Alighting here, we find ourselves at 




Grounds of Harvard University 



IOO 



IIAKVAUI) UNIVERSITY 



once on sacred ground. In front of us, and to the left, is the " Yard." 
To the right and separated from the yard by Quincy Street is the new- 
Harvard Union, erected 1901, of which Henry L. Higginson and the late 
Henry Warren were the chief donors. McKim, Mead and White were 
the architects. It contains offices for the college papers, billiard rooms, 
a restaurant, a good library, and a large assembly room. It is a sort 
of home, or meeting ground, for graduates and undergraduates. Just 
beyond is the Colonial Club, where may be found the quintessence of 
Cambridge, the literary and academic elite. These buildings are on the 
right of Quincy Street. Upon the opposite side of the street, the first 

house, on the corner and 
within the Yard, was for- 
merly the Harvard Observa- 
tory. Afterward it was the 
home of President Felton, 
and later of the venerated 
Professor A. P. Peabody. 
The boundary wall of the 
yard in front of this build- 
ing, built in 1901, was given 
by the class of 1880. The 
ample house next above is 
the president's house, re- 
placing the little brick dwell- 
ing of President Eliot's day. Next stands Emerson Hall, erected in 
memory of Ralph Waldo Emerson. 

Let us now- retrace our steps and, turning the corner by the sometime 
observatory, we come first to a gate given by Mrs. Wirt Dexter to com- 
memorate her son, Samuel Dexter, a member of the class of 1890, who 
died in 1894. Next is the gate erected by the class of 1877, and 
entering here we find ourselves by the Harry Elkins Widener Memorial 
Library, now (191 3) building, to take the place of the old University 
Library, or Gore Hall. It is erected in memory of II. E. Widener, 
class of 1907, lost in the Titanic in 1912. The building will cover four 
sides of a quadrangle. The original building was the gift of Christopher 
Gore, a leading lawyer and governor of Massachusetts (see p. 128). 
The library contains four hundred thousand volumes, and this number 
is swelled by outlying collections in various departments of the univer- 
sity to six hundred and seven thousand, — to say nothing of pamphlets. 
Among the valuable private collections that have been contributed to the 
library are Parkman's books, George Ticknor's collection of Dante litera- 
ture, and Carlyle's collection of books relating to Cromwell and Frederick 




Harvard Main Gate 



HARVARD UNIVERSITY 101 

the Great. Emerging from the library and skirting the yard to the 
right, we come first to Sever Hall, a recitation building, simple, sub- 
stantial, and dignified, the work of the late H. H. Richardson. It was 
built in 1880 from a fund given by Mrs. Anne E. P. Sever. To the left 
is the college chapel, called Appleton Chapel, a building of light stone 
erected in 1858, the gift of Samuel Appleton. Beyond it and facing on 
Cambridge Street is a neat building of stone, almost white, brought 
from Indiana. This is the William Hayes Fogg Art Museum, erected 
in 1S95, an d given by Mrs. Elizabeth Fogg. It contains a large collection 
of casts, statues, engravings, coins, etc., but leaves something to be 
desired in point of beauty. Turning sharply to the left and continuing 
to skirt the yard, we find at the bend in the road the Phillips Brooks 
House, designed by A. W. Longfellow. It is the center of the religious 
life of the university. In this vicinity are two gates, one given by the 
class of 1876 and one by the class of 1886. 

Leaving this house behind us and turning our steps toward the center 
of the Yard, we come first to Holworthy, which was erected in 181 2 
from money obtained by a lottery. Back of Holworthy, by the way, 
is a gate given by George von L. Meyer, former Secretary of the Navy. 
Holworthy, from its slightly elevated site at the head of the yard, 
occupies a commanding position, and has always been a favorite build- 
ing. It was the first dormitory that made any pretense to luxury, for 
it is arranged in suites of three rooms for " chums," — a study in front 
and tw r o bedrooms in the rear of the building. Class-Day spreads and 
Commencement punches always found in Holworthy their fittest home. 
In front of Holworthy the Glee Club sings, and noted men gather in 
groups. Standing here w r e obtain the best view of the beautiful Yard, 
with its great elms, its shadows, its splashes of sunshine on the turf ; 
or, of a Class-Day night, its festoons of Japanese lanterns swaying from 
tree to tree. Who can number the romances that have been transacted 
or begun in the deeply recessed window seats, in the somber, academic, 
almost monastic shades of Holworthy Hall ! Time presses, however, 
and we must glance at the other buildings in the Quadrangle. 

Turning to the right or westerly side of the Yard, we come first to 
Stoughton, a dormitory built in 1805. In its rear, or nearly so, is Holden 
Chapel, the gift (1744) of Madam Holden of London, and once the 
college chapel. It is now used for society meetings. Just south of 
Holden Chapel is a gate given by the class of 1873, and north of that 
a gate and sundial erected by the class of 1870. Next comes Hollis 
Hall, also a dormitory, which dates back to 1763 and was the gift of 
Thomas Hollis of London. Three generations of that family were 
benefactors of the college. This building was used as barracks by 



102 



HARVARD UNIVERSITY 




Harvard Gate, Class of 1877 



the American soldiers in the Revolution at the time when the college 
was temporarily removed to Concord. Next to Mollis is Harvard Hall, 
a building which replaced an earlier Harvard Hall burned in 1764. 

The present building 
was also used as bar- 
racks in the Revolu- 
tionary 'War. It now 
holds some special 
libraries. There is a 
cupola on Harvard 
Hall containing a bell 
which rings for prayers 
and recitations. The 
space between the cor- 
ners of the two build- 
ings, Harvard and 
Hollis, is only five or six feet, and there is a tradition that once a 
student, trying to steal the tongue of the bell, heard the janitor mount- 
ing the cupola, and running down the steep roof of Harvard, jumped 
across the gap and landed safely on the roof of Hollis, whence he 
escaped. 

Next in order comes Massachusetts, but between Massachusetts Hall 
and Harvard Hall is the principal entrance from the street to the 
college yard, through the beautiful Johnston gateway, designed by 
Charles F. McKim. This is inscribed with the orders of the General 
Court relating to the establishment of the college in 1636-1639 and 
this extract : 

After God had carried vs safe to New England 

and wee had bvilded ovr hovses 

provided necessaries for ovr liveli hood 

reard convenient places for Gods worship 

and setled the civill government 

one of the next things we longed for 

and looked after was to advance learning 

and perpetvate it to posterity 

dreading to leave an illiterate ministery 

to the churches when our present ministers 

shall die in the dvst 

New Englands First Fruits. 

Massachusetts Hall, the oldest of the college buildings, was a gift to 
the college by the Province in 1720. This hall also was occupied by 
troops during the Revolution. Afterward it became a dormitory again, 



HARVARD UNIVERSITY 1 03 

later a lecture room, and it is now used for meetings and public pur- 
poses. Beyond Massachusetts, in our tour of the Quadrangle, comes 
Matthews Hall, a dormitory erected in 1872 through the generosity of 
Nathan Matthews of Boston. This hall is said to stand on the site of 
the old Indian College, which was built in 1654 and in which several 
Indian youths struggled with the classics. One of them, Caleb Chee- 
shahteaumuck, took a degree and died. Just beyond Matthews Hall, and 
facing on the square, is Dane Hall. This was formerly the Law School, 
but is now occupied by the Bursar's office, lecture rooms, and a 
psychological laboratory. We come next to Grays Hall, a modern 
dormitory which faces Holworthy Hall, at the south end of the yard. 
It was the gift (1863) of Francis C. Gray of Boston, and its site is 
probably that of the first college building. Back of Grays Hall, and 
close to the street, is an ancient wooden building, yet of dignified 
aspect, called Wadsworth House. This house was built in 1726, jointly 
by the Province and by the college, as a residence for the presidents of 
the institution. It was Washington's headquarters until, as we shall 
presently see, he removed to the Longfellow house on Brattle Street. 
The speaker of the Massachusetts House of Representatives, 1 900-1 903, 
James J. Myers, who after his graduation at Harvard became a tutor 
and proctor, took up his residence in Wadsworth House at that time, 
and, with rare fidelity, has remained there ever since. Returning now 
to the Quadrangle, the substantial granite building standing a little 
back and near the street is Boylston Hall, built in 1857 from money 
bequeathed by Ward Nicholas Boylston, whose picture, in flowered- 
silk dressing gown and cap, lights up Memorial Hall. Boylston Hall 
is devoted to chemistry. Next in order, and facing Matthews Hall, is 
Weld Hall, a dormitory given to the college in 1872 by William F. Weld. 
Beyond that is a simple, graceful, and dignified building of white granite, 
built in 18 1 5 from a design by Bulfinch. It is called University Hall, 
and for many years was the main recitation building. It is now used 
as an office building. University Hall and Sever Hall might perhaps 
be described as the two buildings in the yard which are beautiful in 
themselves, apart frcm any association. Beyond University, standing 
at right angles with Holworthy, is Thayer Hall, a dormitory given to 
the college in 1870 by Nathaniel Thayer. 

Passing out of the Quadrangle and continuing to Cambridge Street, 
which bounds the yard on the north, we have within view many build- 
ings, mostly of recent construction, belonging to the university. Oppo- 
site the Phillips Brooks House, on the other side of the street, is the 
Hemenway Gymnasium, given by Augustus Hemenway in 1878. To 
the right is the Lawrence Scientific School building, given by Abbott 



104 HARVARD UNIVERSITY 

Lawrence in 1S47, an & reenforced in 1S84 by a building in Holmes'? 
Field just beyond, erected by T. Jefferson Coolidge of Boston. In this 
last building the visitor may behold an electric machine given to the 
college by Benjamin Franklin, and a telescope used by Professor John 
Winthrop. Immediately in front of us is a triangular-shaped piece of 
ground called the Delta, formerly the college playground, until Memo- 
rial Hall, designed by Ware and Van Brunt, was built there in the 
seventies. The statue in the Delta is an ideal statue of John Harvard, 
whose bequest of his library to the college in 1636 was really its start- 
ing point. It is the work of Daniel C. French, and the gift of Samuel 
J. Bridge. The exterior of Memorial Hall may perhaps strike the visitor 
as lacking unity and simplicity, but the interior will not disappoint him. 
Memorial Hall proper, where are inscribed the names of those Harvard 
graduates who died in the Civil War, is noble and impressive ; and the 
great dining hall, which occupies the whole western end of the building, 
with room for over a thousand students, which is paneled with oak, 
beautified by memorial stained-glass windows, and filled with pictures 
and busts, all of which have an historic and some of which have an 
artistic interest, is probably unique in this country. 

If, before entering Memorial Hall (and Sanders Theatre), we turn to 
the right on leaving the college yard, we shall come first to Nelson 
Robinson Hall, at the corner of Quincy Street and Broadway, the archi- 
tectural building, containing many casts and engravings. On the oppo- 
site side of Broadway, in the "Little Delta," is the old gymnasium, 
built in 1S5S, now occupied by the Germanic Museum. 

Of the many other buildings belonging to the university in this neigh- 
borhood only a few can be mentioned. Randall Hall, at the corner of 
Divinity Avenue, with a dining room that seats five hundred, is a good 
piece of architecture, constructed by Wheelwright & Haven. Beyond 
are the Semitic Museum; Divinity Hall, an unsectarian theological school; 
the University Museum, comprising the Museum of Comparative Zoology, 
the Botanical Museum, the Mineralogical Museum, the Geological Museum, 
and the Peabody Museum, founded in 1866 by George Peabody, the 
American banker of London. All of these are open to visitors, and all 
contain something to interest even the unscientific person. 

Returning to the vicinity of the yard, mention should be made of 
the Law School building, near the Hemenway Gymnasium, as this 
harbors one of the strongest departments of the university. The 
Harvard Law School has not only a national but an international repu- 
tation, and it has been described by an English jurist as superior to any 
other school of the kind in the world. The building was designed by 
H. H. Richardson, the architect of Sever Hall, to which, however, it is 



WASHINGTON ELM 



io 5 



scarcely equal. The library contains forty-four thousand volumes. Near 
this hall once stood the yellow gambrel-roofed house in which Dr. Oliver 








Cambridge 

Wendell Holmes was born. The statue of Charles Sumner, by Anne 
Whitney, now at the head of the Subway entrance, was originally in the 
triangular plot near by. 
Leaving the univer- 
sity buildings we cross 
the Cambridge Com- 
mon to the west of the 
yard, formerly, by the 
way, a place of execu- 
tion, and once the 
scene of an open-air 
sermon by Whitefield. 
Here is a bronze 
statue of John Bridge, 
the Puritan, in the garb 
of his time, an excellent 
piece of sculpture by 
Thomas R. Gould and 
his son, Marshall S. 

Gould. In the roadway, just west of the Common, stands the time- 
worn Washington Elm, to which is affixed a tablet stating the historic fact 
that under this tree Washington first took command of the American 




Washington Elm 



io6 



RADCLIFFE COLLEGE 



army. Opposite the Washington Elm is the group of buildings belong- 
ing to Radcliffe College, the girls' college, a recognized and highly suc- 
cessful part of the university. These buildings are on the corner of 
Garden and Mason streets. 

This venture of giving women instruction in the same studies that were pur- 
sued at Harvard was begun in a small way in 1879. 1* was not a part of Harvard, 
but, as a humorous student remarked, it was a Harvard Annex. The name came 
into common use. The professors and tutors as a rule were strongly in favor 




Longfellow House 



of the scheme, some even offering to teach for nothing rather than have it fail. 
The Annex was a success. The Fay house on Garden Street was bought. Lady 
Anne Moulson in 1643 ^ a d gi ven £ lo ° as a scholarship to Harvard, the first one. 
Her maiden name was Radcliffe, and as the Annex grew it was incorporated as 
Radcliffe College, and now has several fine buildings, a large number of students, 
and its diplomas bear the seal of the older institution and the signature of its 
president. In the Fay house, by the way, in 1836, the words of " Fair Harvard" 
were written by the Rev. Samuel Gilman of Charleston, S.C. 

Returning toward the college we pass Christ Church, which was 
built in 1760 by Peter Harrison, who designed King's Chapel in Bos- 
ton. Washington worshiped here. Adjoining the church is an old 
burying ground which dates from 1636, the year of the founding of the 
college. Near the fence will be observed a milestone bearing this 
inscription: "Boston, 8 miles. 1734." This was one of many mile- 
stones set up by Governor Dudley ; and what is now a legend was 



LONGFELLOW AND LOWELL HOUSES 



107 



once true, for, before the bridges were constructed over the Charles 
River between Boston and Cambridge, the highway connecting the 
two places ran through Boston Neck and what is now Brighton, and 
was no less than eight miles long. 

Some outlying spots should be visited, if only hurriedly, especially the 
great Stadium — seating capacity 22,000 — and Soldiers Field, the play- 
ground of the university, the gift of Major Henry L. Higginson. These are 
across the river, spanned by the ornamental Anderson Bridge, and nearby 
is the University boathouse, gift of the Harvard Club of New York City. 

Brattle Street, the " Tory Row " of provincial days, is easily reached 
from Harvard Square. Here is the Episcopal Theological School, and 
just above this is 
the Longfellow house, 
one of the finest of 
colonial mansions. It 
was built about the 
year 1759 by Colonel 
JohnVassall, a refugee 
of the Revolution. 
Washington took up 
his headquarters here 
when he removed from 
Wadsworth House, 
and here Madam 
Washington joined 
him. Afterward the 

estate passed into the hands of various owmers : was used as a lodging 
house by Harvard professors when the widow Craigie owned it ; was 
occupied by such distinguished persons as Jared Sparks, Edward 
Everett, and Worcester, the dictionary maker ; and finally became the 
home of the poet Longfellow. It is now occupied by a daughter, Miss 
Alice Longfellow, and next to it is the home of another daughter who 
married a public-spirited citizen, Richard H. Dana, son of the distin- 
guished lawyer who wrote " Two Years Before the Mast," and grandson 
of the poet of the same name. About ten minutes' walk on Brattle 
Street beyond the Longfellow house brings us to the corner of Elmwood 
Avenue, which leads past the familiar Lowell house, where James Russell 
Lowell was born, and which was his lifelong home. The seclusion of the 
house, which Lowell so much enjoyed, is now impaired by the parkway 
which skirts the Lowell grove. Mt. Auburn Street itself has been mod- 
ernized by a succession of public hospitals and the like. Back of these 
hospitals, on the river, the curious visitor may behold the site where Leif 




Lowell House 



108 MOUNT AUBURN 

Ericson built his house in the year iooi, or thereabout, — according to the 
identification of Professor Eben N. Horsford, whose other memorials of 
supposed Norsemen we shall encounter later. Close at hand is Mount 
Auburn, celebrated for its natural beauty, as well as for the distinguished 
dead who lie buried here. In the vestibule of the brownstone chapel at 
the left of the entrance to the cemetery are the much-admired statues of 
John Winthrop (by Greenough), John Adams (by Randall Rogers), James 
Otis (by Thomas Crawford), and Joseph Story (by his son). Turning to 
the left we seek Fountain Avenue and the graves of the Rev. Charles 
Lowell, of his son, James Russell Lowell, and of the latter's three 
nephews, all of whom were killed in the Civil War. " Some choice 
New England stock in that little plot of ground." On the ridge back 
of this lot is the monument of Longfellow, and near by (on Lime 
Avenue) the grave of Holmes. If, instead of turning to the left from 
the entrance, we ascend the hill to the right, passing the statue of Bow- 
ditch, the mathematician, we shall come to the old Gothic chapel now 
used as a crematory. Facing this stands the famous Sphinx, the work 
of Martin Milmore. Among other monuments in various parts of the 
cemetery are those of William Ellery Charming (Green-Briar Path), 
Hosea Ballou (Central Avenue), Charles Sumner (Arethusa Path), 
Edward Everett (Magnolia Avenue), Charlotte Cushman (Palm 
Avenue), Edwin Booth (Anemone Path), Louis Agassiz (Bellwort 
Path), Anson Burlingame (Spruce Avenue), Samuel G. Howe (near 
Spruce Avenue), and Phillips Brooks (Mimosa Path). In the Fuller 
lot (Pyrola Path) is a monument to Margaret Fuller Ossoli. 

From the cemetery a Huron Avenue car will take us to the Astro- 
nomical Observatory, and by walking through the observatory grounds we 
can reach the Harvard Botanic Garden, laid out in 1S07. This garden, 
open to the public, is full of interesting features, such as a bed of 
Shakespearean flowers, another of flowers mentioned by Virgil, and still 
another of such quaint plants as grew in an old-time New England garden. 

The sight-seeing resources of Cambridge are not yet exhausted, but 
the sight-seer may be ; and so from the Botanic Garden we will take 
a car Bostonward, stopping, however, at the Subway for a finishing 
tour about Harvard Square. At the corner of Dunster Street we may 
observe the site, marked by a tablet, of the house of Stephen Daye, first 
printer in British America, 1638-1648. Here were printed the " Bay Psalm- 
Book " and Eliot's Indian Bible. Farther down Dunster Street, at the 
corner of Mt. Auburn Street, is marked the site of the first meetinghouse 
in Cambridge, set up in 1632; and still farther down, at the corner of 
South Street, that of the house of Thomas Dudley, founder of Cambridge, 
who lived here in 1630. 



BROOKLINE 109 

From the south side of Massachusetts Avenue leads off Bow Street, 
once the great highway through these parts ; and here may still be seen 
the colonial mansion occupied in prerevolutionary days by Colonel 
David Phips. In the same street the regicides Whalley and Goffe were 
in hiding (1660) until the king, learning of their presence, ordered their 
arrest ; they fled to New Haven. Just above Bow Street is Plympton 
Street, where, shut in by modem brick dormitories, is a fine wooden 
colonial mansion, constructed about 1761 by the Rev. East Apthorp, 
rector of Christ Church. Mr. Apthorp, it was supposed, aspired to 
be a bishop, and consequently his house was called in derision the 
"Bishop's Palace." Burgoyne was lodged here after his surrender at 
Saratoga. 

Taking an electric car again, or a Subway train, we return to Boston. 
Two hundred years ago this would have been a ride on horseback, or 
in a chaise, of eight miles, and over a rough road. Now it is a trip of 
three or four miles, accomplished luxuriously by the car in less than 
half an hour, while by the Subway it may be made in less than half that 
time. Cotton Mather would have shuddered at the change, and yet 
the university is now so large and so completely a little w r orld in itself 
that even the proximity of Boston can hardly ruffle its composure or 
divert its scholastic energies. 

BROOKLINE 

Brookline is the richest suburb of Boston and in many respects the 
most attractive, with numerous beautiful estates and tasteful " villas " 
and charming drives. During all the years since its population entitled 
it to a city charter, its people have steadfastly refused to give up their 
primitive government by the New England town meeting, just as they 
have declined all propositions looking to annexation to Boston, although 
their territory is embraced on three sides by the encroaching munici- 
pality. It began, however, as a possession of Boston. As " Muddy 
River," so first called from the stream which still bears the name and 
contributes no little to the attractiveness of the Fenway section of the 
Boston City Parks System, its fertile fields were originally utilized by 
the chief settlers at Boston as a " grazing-place for their swine and 
other cattle, while corn" was on the ground in Boston. For a time, 
through this usage, it was known as " Boston Commons." It was set 
off as an independent town only in 1705, when the name of Brooklyn 
was given it, and its inhabitants were " enjoyned to build a meeting- 
house and obtain an Orthodox minister," — so closely were civic and 
ecclesiastical prerogatives blended in the government then. 

We may reach Brookline from Boston easily, quickly, and cheaply 



I IO 



BACK BAY FENS 



by several routes. The Newton Circuit line of the New York Central 
Railroad (South Station, or Trinity Place Station, a few steps from 
Copley Square) skirts and traverses the town, and has four stations 
within its borders. Various trolley lines cover it more generally, — via 
Tremont Street and Roxbury Crossing to Brookline Village ; via Boyls- 
ton and Ipswich streets and Brookline Avenue to the same point ; via 
Beacon Street to the Chestnut Hill reservoir; via Huntington Avenue 
and Brookline Village to several destinations. For the purpose of rapid 
exploration the trolley is superior to the steam railway, and the last-named 




Agassiz Bridge in the Fens 



line is the most convenient. In the Subway, or on Boylston Street or 
Huntington Avenue, or at Copley Square we may take any outward-bound 
car bearing the legend " Brookline Village via Huntington Avenue." 

Leaving Copley Square we soon begin to pass the remarkable suc- 
cession of notable buildings and institutions about and beyond Massa- 
chusetts Avenue to the Brookline line, described on pages 90-91 F. On 
the left, opposite the Opera House, overlooking the abandoned grounds 
of the Baseball Club, southward, we get a fair view of the roofs and 
towers of the Roxbury district of the city. On our right, beyond the ex- 
panse of land reclaimed from the primeval salt marsh, or between the 
structures and blocks of houses here facing the avenue, we catch glimpses 
of the Back Bay Fens (see p. 91), part of the Boston City Parks System, 
ultimately to be developed into a region of rare beauty, which follow the 
general course of the tortuous Muddy River from its mouth at the 



RIVERWAY in 

Charles to a point near Brookline Avenue, where they narrow into the 
Riverway. The Riverway, passing out from the Fens, follows the line of 
Muddy River through Brookline into Olmsted Park (this comprises 
what were at first Leverett Park, Jamaicaway, and Jamaica Park) in the 
Jamaica Plain district of Boston. Here connection is made with the 
Arnold Arboretum, West Roxbury district (the territory of the Bussey 
Institution, Harvard University), which in turn connects with the ex- 
tensive Franklin Park lying between the Roxbury, West Roxbury, and 
Dorchester districts. Thence this lovely chain of parkways and parks 
from the Back Bay district is continued. by Dorchesterway and the 
Strandway to Marine Park at City Point, South Boston. The most im- 
portant part of the Riverway, including the main driveway, lies within 
Boston limits, while some of its most charming features and scenic effects 
are found in the Brookline section. It is crossed by Brookline and Long- 
wood avenues. Tremont Street separates it from Olmsted Park. 

Near the Tremont entrance to the Fens from Huntington Avenue we 
get a view, on the right, of Fenway Court and Simmons College, and 
next in our immediate neighborhood, also on the right, appear the cluster 
of high-grade public school houses, and the fine assemblage of Harvard 
Medical School and other buildings, all described in earlier pages (see 
pp. 91 e, 91 f). A little farther on we pass the House of the Good Shep- 
herd, a worthy Catholic institution for the shelter and reclamation of way- 
ward women and girls, — the large brick structure set in ample grounds. 
Southward, on high land on South Huntington Avenue, is the Vincent 
Memorial Hospital, in memory of Mrs. Vincent of the old Boston Museum. 

As we cross the Riverway just at the foot of Leverett Pond, into 
which the river here widens, a pleasing vista opens out to the left. On 
either side of the tranquil lake are superb driveways, which of a pleasant 
afternoon are crowded with vehicles. A few rods farther on we are 
brought to our immediate destination, Village Square, where free trans- 
fers to other trolley lines may be made. Since our present object is to see 
something of the historical side of Brookline, as well as the part wherein 
is most exhibited the progress attained in the art of the landscape archi- 
tect, we will here transfer to another car. We may remark in passing 
that on the left of the street (Washington) by which we entered the 
square stood in the old days the "Punch-Bowl Tavern," built about 
1730, — before the Revolution a favorite junketing place for British 
officers from the Boston garrison, and for nearly a century the stopping 
place of the stagecoaches for Worcester and other inland towns, and 
for the great goods wagons, the pioneers of our modern freight trains. 

Boylston Street, originally the Worcester turnpike, branches off to the 
left, and since the Ipswich Street line of cars from Boston, mentioned 



H2 POINTS OF INTEREST IN BROOKLINE 

above, continues out through this street, we will take one of them for 
the rest of our journey in this direction. For a little way the street is 
lined with buildings more utilitarian than elegant, but soon we pass 
on the left the immense and modernly complete William H. Lincoln 
Schoolhouse and enter upon a region of large and imposing estates, 
rising to either side of the road on the great pudding-stone ledges, the 
country rock of all this section. In two or three minutes more we 
come face to face with the granite gatehouse of the old Brookline Res- 
ervoir (fifty years ago the chief distributing basin of the Boston Water- 
works), still in service, though its capacity is diminutive as compared 
with reservoirs of later date or with the needs of the city. 

Here we will leave the car for a stroll over earless streets in Brook- 
line's choicest parts. We take Warren Street up the hill to Walnut 
Street, the first turn to the left. On either side are handsome dwellings 
with generous grounds, and on the far corner of Walnut Street stands 
the fine stone church of the old First (Unitarian) Parish. A little 
way below, on Walnut Street, is the ancient Town Burying Ground, 
lying close to the sidewalk, a serene old-time inclosure encompassed 
by modern structures, with mounds and vales, rural paths and vener- 
able trees. Near the street, one of the highest of the mounds contains 
the tombs of the Gardner and Boylston families, both prominent in 
Brookline town history. Perhaps the most eminent Boylston who lies 
here was Dr. Zabdiel Boylston, who introduced in America the practice 
of inoculation, as the tablet's extended inscription relates. He died 
in 1766, aged 87. The slab over the Gardner tomb contains thirty 
names, among them that of the single minuteman from Brookline 
killed at Lexington. A near-by ancient headstone informs that the 
widow of the Rev. Increase Mather of Boston lies buried here. 

Returning to Warren Street (named for the famous Boston surgeon, 
Dr. John C. Warren, who owned the lands through which it winds), 
we may continue for a mile or more between splendid estates with 
stately houses set in velvety lawns fringed with trees. At the opening 
of Dudley Street is the fine old " Clark house," built early in the nine- 
teenth century, latterly the home of Frederick Law Olmsted, the noted 
landscape architect, to whose skill a good part of the town owes much 
of its beauty. The extensive country seat beyond it, covering many 
acres, is the Gardner place, that of the late John L. Gardner; and 
on the left hand is the beautiful Sargent place, the estate of Professor 
Charles S. Sargent, perhaps the richest in the town as regards landscape. 

At Cottage Street Warren Street turns off abruptly to the right and, 
after a somewhat erratic course, loses itself in Heath Street, which 
emerges upon Boylston Street just above the Reservoir. On the 



POINTS OF INTEREST IN BROOKLINE 113 

right-hand farther corner of Cottage Street is the unique and celebrated 
old Goddard house, whose huge chimney bears the date 1730. Its quaint 
architecture, the old-fashioned garden which surrounds it, and the beauti- 
ful trees and shrubs which form its setting, make it one of the most 
worthy memorials of Province days. Next beyond, on the Warren Street 
side, is the castlelike country house of the late Barthold Schlesinger, 
behind noble trees and dominating a grand expanse, of diversified land- 
scape. Joining this extensive estate is the equally noteworthy Winthrop 
place, the former country seat of the late Hon. Robert C. Winthrop, 
its lands stretching to Clyde Street. A little farther along, on the 
left, is the Lee place, long the summer home of the late Henry Lee, 
a sterling Bostonian of his day ; on the right, the Augustus Lowell 
estate, — these among others; and where Warren Street ends in Heath, 
the Theodore Lyman estate, named by some authorities forty years ago 
as the finest of modern country seats in this region. 

We skirt this beautiful place as we continue through Heath Street. 
Turning down Boylston Street to the right, we soon see on the oppo- 
site (north) side of the way Fisher Avenue, which climbs over the hill 
of the same name on top of which are two reservoirs, one belonging to 
the city of Boston, the other to the town of Brookline. On the lower 
corner of Boylston Street stands the stately residence of Henry M. 
Whitney, its sides mantled in ivy. On a shaded slope, a little below, 
is the old Boylston house, occupying the site of the original homestead 
of the family, which was once almost seignorial in this town. Its head 
was Thomas Boylston, 2d, a surgeon who settled here in 1665, and 
whose son w T as the eminent Dr. Zabdiel Boylston, whose monument we 
saw in the old burying ground. One of the daughters was the wife of 
John Adams and mother cf the second President of the United States. 
Dr. Zabdiel Boylston built the present house. During the Revolution 
it sheltered some of the patriot troops. 

At Cottage Street, on our route through Warren, we might have 
turned off to the south for a walk to Jamaica Pond and Olmsted Park 
(Boston City Parks System), above a half mile distant; and at Clyde 
Street we might have taken a stroll southwest for three quarters of a 
mile to Clyde Park, the property of the Boston Country Chib, where 
the most fashionable racing events and golf and tennis matches here- 
abouts take place. But there is more to see in the northern part of 
the town. 

Accordingly we take a car back to Village Square, and change there 
to one marked " Reservoir " or " Lake Street." This conveys us along 
Washington Street, through the business center, past the post office, 
the steam railroad station, — trains cross underneath the street, — the 



114 POINTS OF INTEREST IN BROOKLINE 

substantial granite Town Hall, and the Public Library (capacity of this 
library, 100,000 volumes) on the right. We now enter upon a region 
of ample, homelike-looking houses, generously encompassed by well- 
kept grounds. 

To our left we see Aspinwall Hill rise sharply, its sides here and there 
showing open patches of pleasant lawn among the tree-embowered 
estates. An occasional break in the line of front walls inclosing the 
Washington Street properties accommodates a "path " of steep stairs 
leading up to Gardner Road, the first of the series of streets partly 
encircling the hill. Many other3 there are, in sweeping curves or cres- 
cents, entering upon and continuing short bits of straight highway. The 
landscape architects have happily avoided the mistake of trying to lay 
out a swelling hilltop in rectangles. 

We may alight at Gardner Path, hedge- and vine-bordered, which will 
bring us up to the most picturesque part of Gardner Circle. To our left 
is the Blake estate, occupying part of the original Muddy River farm 
of the Rev. John Cotton, the early colonial minister of the church 
in Boston. Above, on one of the most sightly parts of the slope, stood, 
until this century opened, the old Aspinwall house, shaded by fine elms. 
Its site now bears a modern mansion. Dr. William Aspinwall, who 
built it in 1 803, was a notable physician in his day, a minuteman from 
the town, and a patriot all through the Revolution. His house — a 
grand one in its period, and to its last day a dignified, ample structure — 
was once the only dwelling on this side of the hill, and commanded the 
whole sweep of the Charles River and the then distant town of Boston 
in its outlook. Ascending to the top of the hill, if we desire, by a sort 
of switch-back arrangement of curving and gradually rising roads, we 
pass many attractive residences, mostly modern, our highest point being 
reached on the S-shaped Addington Road, two hundred and forty feet 
above sea level. From here, so far as the breaks between the rows of 
apartment houses will permit, we catch glimpses of country hills to the 
south, and of the village at our feet ; to the north, across the Beacon 
Street Boulevard, rises Corey Hill, two hundred and sixty feet high, 
formerly part of the extensive farm of Deacon Timothy Corey, now 
covered with modern estates. 

We can descend to the boulevard in a few minutes by Addington 
Path and Winthrop Road, and take any Pake Street or Reservoir car, 
west-bound, which will convey us shortly to Beacon Circle, directly facing 
which is the high embankment and gatehouse of the Chestnut Hill 
Reservoir, through which flows a great part of the water supply of Bos- 
ton. Here, to the left, is the High-Service Pumping Station, a group of 
solid buildings of some architectural merit, especially when seen across 



POINTS OF INTEREST IN BROOKLINE 115 

the beautiful expanse of waters making up the reservoir. The pumps 
are among the largest and finest of their class. 

From this point our car turns to the right through Chestnut Hill 
Avenue, along the eastern edge of the reservoir, and immediately we 
reenter Boston. To our right are various roads with English and Scotch 
names, making up the Aberdeen District, an attractive and healthful 
addition to the city's " sleeping room," rapidly built up in the midst of 
what was primeval forest and ragged ledges of pudding stone. To our 
left, as we turn into Commonwealth Avenue, the grounds surrounding 
the twin lakes of the reservoir have been taken by the Metropolitan 
Water Board and converted into the Reservoir Park, one of the most 
restful and charming pleasure grounds to be found in the neighborhood 
of any great city. All around the winding outlines of the basin runs 
a trim driveway, and beside it a smooth gravel footpath. On all sides 
of the lake are symmetrical knolls, covered with forest trees and the 
greenest of turf. The banks to the water's edge are sodded and bor- 
dered with flowering shrubs ; and the stonework, which in one place 
carries the road across a natural chasm, and the great natural ledges, 
are mantled with clinging vines, and in autumn are aflame with the 
crimson of the Ampelopsis and the Virginia creeper. On the southern 
side, close to the narrow isthmus dividing the upper from the lower 
lake, stands a classical gatehouse, and behind it Chestnut Hill rears its 
wooded mass, crowned with some attractive dwellings. A pleasant, 
shaded road winds to the hilltop, w T hich commands a noble prospect. 

Our car continues along Commonwealth Avenue, which here crosses 
a high ridge. To the right the view embraces a pretty stone chapel, 
thrifty truck patches sloping away from our feet, a deep, verdant valley, 
with Strong's and Chandler's ponds nestling in its greenery. At the 
foot of the hill below us stands the Catholic Theological Seminary of 
St. John, a cluster of buildings imbedded in noble trees. The estate 
which it occupies was once an extensive country seat, known as the 
Stanwood place, comprising many acres of beautiful wooded land ; and 
much of its beauty in woodland has wisely been retained. On our left 
we pass Evergreen Cemetery, and beyond several handsome estates 
set well back from the street. At the foot of the hill, Lake Street, we 
reach-the boundary line of the city of Newton, and here is a little transfer 
station, where we change to a car marked " Norumbega Park," which 
traverses the beautiful extension of the famous Boston avenue, — this 
part called the Newton Boulevard, — leading to various sections of 
Newton and to the country town of Weston. 



Ii6 NEWTONS AND WESTON 



THE NEWTONS AND WESTON 

Along Newton Boulevard to the Newtons and Weston. From the trans- 
fer station at Lake Street (reached by all electric cars from the Boston 
Subway or Copley Square marked " Lake Street") our car first climbs 
the long slope of Waban Hill, the highest of Newton's many hills, — three 
hundred and twenty feet, — lined with modern houses whose chief 
recommendation is the charming outlook which they enjoy. On the 
summit, to our right, is the reservoir of the city of Newton. From this 
point the road stretches out in graceful, sweeping curves for about five 
miles, to the stout stone bridge crossing the Charles River to Weston, 
at nearly the westernmost apex of the town. The road is practically 
perfect, — a broad, smooth driveway on either side of a turfed and 
shaded park through which the double tracks of the trolley line run, per- 
mitting of high speed. Advantage has been taken of the naturally 
diversified configuration of the country to make the highway as pictur- 
esque as possible, and we smoothly climb lofty ridges, gayly swing down 
their farther slopes, wind around the shoulders of swelling knolls, and 
w r hirl through shady forest depths in as much comfort and with nearly 
as much speed as the occupants of the many automobiles which find 
this their most delightful trip out of Boston. 

We pass between the villages of Newton, Newtonville, and West 
Newton on our right ; Newton Center, Newton Highlands, and Waban 
on our left, and through one edge of Auburndale, which here skirts the 
river. Our terminus is the favorite pleasure ground called Norumbega 
Park, where the trolley company has provided on the shore of the 
stream a variety of attractions for many tastes, — an open-air theater, 
zoological gardens, an extensive cafe, and a large boathouse, where 
canoes and rowboats may be hired. A launch plies the river between 
the park and Waltham, making hourly trips daily, afternoon and evening. 

Canoeing is the all-engrossing sport on this part of the river, and just 
around the bend to our left is the Riverside Recreation Ground. We 
cannot see it, for a high wooded promontory shuts off our view ; but 
we may take a canoe and paddle up through the stone arch of the 
Weston Bridge, and in a few minutes we shall be in the thick of the 
fleet at Riverside, where on a pleasant afternoon or evening the water 
is often so densely covered that one might almost cross the stream by 
stepping from one canoe to another. Frequently during the summer the 
fleet parades, decorated with lanterns, bunting, and flowers, and various 
water fetes are held at odd times. The grounds and boathouses are 
extensive and well equipped; and near by are the houses of the Newton 
Boat Club, the Boston Canoe Club, and the Boston Athletic Association, 



NEWTONS AND WESTON 117 

whose large membership helps to swell the crowds upon the river on 
these occasions. 

As we stand at the Weston Bridge, looking west, the noble mass of 
Doublet Hill, with its twin summits respectively three hundred and forty 
and three hundred and sixty feet high, rises directly before us. On the 
hither slope appears the great equalizing reservoir, having a channel 
leading to it and great sixty-inch mains down from it to and across the 
river, which was constructed by the Metropolitan Water Board, the 
work beginning in 1902. A thirteen-mile aqueduct, much of it tunneled 
through the rock, brings the water from the Sudbury dam in South- 
boro, through Framingham, Wayland, and Weston, to this new res- 
ervoir. The huge mains constructed during the summer of 1902 along 
the Newton Boulevard now convey the additional supply to the 
Chestnut Hill basins. 

From its summit Doublet Hill presents a fine view of the surrounding 
country, and its ascent is easy, either by a path through the wood or 
via South Avenue (which forms the western continuation of Common- 
wealth Avenue through Weston and Wayland) and Newton Street, which 
branches off a little to the right and leads to Weston village and the sta- 
tion of the Boston & Maine Railroad. If we take the latter course we 
shall pass the residences of many professional and business men, who 
find Weston a quiet and healthful home. Thus far the trolley has not 
invaded the old town to any considerable extent ; but in connection 
with a line from Waltham, ultimately the ubiquitous electric cars will 
be whizzing and clanging through the shady streets, so long sacred to 
private vehicles. 

To the left of South Avenue, East Newton Street pursues a winding 
course to the river at Newton Lower Falls, a factory village, where one 
may take a train for Boston if he so desires. On the way one passes 
"Kewaydin," the extensive estate of the late Francis Blake (inventor 
of the Blake telephone transmitter), a castellated structure standing on 
a high, stone-walled bank. 

But probably the most generally interesting spot to be reached by a 
short walk from Weston Bridge is the famous Norumbega Tower, built 
by the late Professor Eben N. Horsford to commemorate the site of 
the Norsemen's fort founded by Leif Ericson about the year 1000, as 
Professor Horsford held. He elaborately carried out his identification of 
Watertown with the Vinland of the Northmen, and traced their wharves, 
canals, docks, and walls along the river to this point, the site of their 
stronghold, where may still be seen — at least the professor saw them — 
the remains of the moat and dam w T hich the Northmen constructed. 
On this walk a short distance up South Avenue w r e take the first turn 



n8 NORTHERN NEWTONS 

to the right, River Street, and follow that street along the riverside for 
about half a mile, to the mouth of Stony Brook, which divides Weston 
from Waltham. The tower is a structure of field stone, with an inside 
staircase giving access to a lookout at the top, and it bears a tablet 
upon which is inscribed a detailed description of the Norsemen's works 
according to Professor Horsford's theory. 

Here the waters of Stony Brook are collected by a dam across the 
mouth of the narrow gorge, forming one of the reservoirs of the city of 
Cambridge. Beyond it, the towering bulk of Prospect Hill, in Waltham, 
cuts off further view in this direction. We might reach Prospect Hill 
by a walk of about three miles, but it would be better to return to 
Norumbega Park and Boston. 

The Northern Newtons. By way of varying our route and seeing some- 
thing of the northern Newtons, we will take an electric, which turns off 
the boulevard at Washington Street and follows that chief thoroughfare 
of this section down the steep incline through West Newton, a conven- 
ient and — away from the railroad — a pretty residential section. This 
is also the civic center of Newton, the City Hall standing near the New 
York Central Railroad station. We pass it soon after reaching the foot 
of the hill, Washington Street swinging around to the right and hence- 
forward following the steam railroad tracks. These were depressed some 
years ago, at great expense, so as entirely to eliminate grade crossings — 
of which there were many — throughout the city. This street is the chief 
business avenue all along through Newtonville to Newton, — anciently 
Newton Comer, — where our line ends and we may transfer to cars for 
other villages or for Boston, via Brighton and Commonwealth Avenue. 

Taking one of the latter, a ride of less than five minutes through 
Tremont Street brings us to Waverley Avenue, where we alight if we 
wish to see the Eliot Monument, commemorating the first preaching to 
the Indians by John Eliot, " the apostle." It is rather a stiff climb up 
Waverley Avenue to Kenrick Street (on the left), and a few minutes' 
walk along Kenrick Street to a lane on the right, which leads a few 
steps down to the unique monument, — a handsome balustraded ter- 
race, on the face of which are set tablets bearing the names of Eliot 
and his associates, and this inscription : 

Here at Nonantum, Oct. 28, 1646, in Waban's wigwam 

near this spot, John Eliot began to preach the gospel to 

the Indians. Here he founded the first Christian 

community of Indians within the English colonies. 

The view from the top of the terrace is very fine. It embraces 
much of the ground which we traversed on our way out from Boston, 



NEWTON AND WELLESLEY 119 

including the wooded slope of Waban Hill just opposite, Strong's and 
Chandler's ponds in the valley to our left, and St. John's Catholic 
Seminary in its grove close beside the Boulevard. 

We may, if we wish, cross over Waban Hill via Waverley and Grant 
avenues, returning to Lake Street transfer station, and choose one of 
two or three pleasant routes back to the city. The cars via Coolidge's 
Corner and the Beacon Street boulevard will show us all the latest tri- 
umphs of the builder's art in blocks and apartment houses ; those via 
Commonwealth Avenue will take us swiftly over a magnificent ridge, — 
the northwestern end of Corey Hill, — from the top of which a sweep- 
ing view is had of Boston, Cambridge, and many towns beyond. The 
road is winding and runs up hill and down dale, like its Newton pro- 
longation ; and since it is not fully built up as yet, and there are few 
intersecting streets, our speed is but little less than that of the automo- 
biles which make this a favorite course. Either car we may take will 
soon bring us back to Copley Square or the Subway. 

Newton was originally part of Cambridge, but in 1691 was set off as Newton 
by the General Court, its previous designation having been Little Cambridge. Its 
Indian name of Nonantum is perpetuated in one of the least attractive of its 
many villages, — a manufacturing hamlet on the north side, separated from 
Watertown only by the river. The area within the city limits is nearly thirteen 
thousand acres, and its contour is very diversified, a number of fine hills rising 
to heights of from two hundred to three hundred and twenty feet. The Charles 
River forms the meandering boundary line, separating Newton from Watertown, 
Waltham, Weston, Wellesley, and Needham, successively. The main line and 
also the Newton Circuit branch of the New York Central Railroad traverse the 
city and serve the various sections with a dozen stations. A number of electric 
lines, radiating mostly from the business center, — anciently Newton Corner, now 
plain Newton, — thread all sections. 

NEWTON AND WELLESLEY 

The many trolley lines radiating from Boston to all its suburbs make 
it easy to reach widely separated places of interest in a single afternoon, 
or at most in a day. In such a trip could be included the southern 
Newtons, Wellesley, Natick, Needham, Waltham, and Watertown. 
The territory embraced in these places is very extensive ; but if, 
instead of describing the wide arc of a circle including them, one 
traverses several chords of that arc, the various points are easily and 
rapidly covered. 

Essaying first the southernmost of these chords, we may take a Boston 
& Worcester car in Park Square, thence ride out through Brookline 
and Newton via Boylston Street and its continuations in Wellesley, 



120 NEWTON AND WELLESLEY 

almost in a bee line to Natick ; or we may take at the Subway a car 
for the Reservoir, or any marked " Lake Street," and change there for a 
car passing along the Newton Boulevard to Washington Street, New- 
ton ; thence to the left through Auburndale and the " Lower Falls " to 
the same destination. 

If we choose the route last mentioned, — by way of the Newton 
Boulevard, — our course from the intersection of the Boulevard and 
Washington Street, in Newton, is up quite a steep rise, past the 
Woodland Park Hotel on the right, — a roomy, wooden building, in 
wide-spreading, shaded grounds. At the next street opening above 
we get a glimpse of the large building of the Lasell Seminary, a noted 
school for girls ; and a little farther on we cross the track of the 
Newton Circuit steam line, the Woodland station being close at our 
right. We pass attractive houses by the way, nearly all surrounded 
by generous grounds and several shaded by natural forest trees. As 
we cross Beacon Street we pass the Newton Hospital, an excellent 
example of the cottage type of such institutions, standing in large and 
well-kept grounds. 

Our course continues in the same general direction, southwest, to 
Newton Lower Falls, a small, conventional factory village, where the 
water power of the Charles River has been utilized to propel woolen 
mills and one or two paper mills since about 1790. An ancient burying 
ground here contains the graves of Revolutionary soldiers. 

At this point we cross the river and enter the town of Wellesley. For 
the rest of our way the trolley track parallels the main line of the New 
York Central Railroad. That part of Wellesley through which we first 
pass is locally known as "The Farms" though the village and railroad 
station are some distance to our right. Wellesley is by nature one of 
the most picturesque towns in eastern Massachusetts, and its natural 
beauties have been enhanced by the art of the landscape architect. 

As we continue along Washington Street, to our left rises Maugus 
Hill, three hundred feet high, on top of which is the town reservoir. 
About a mile from the town line we pass the neat stone Wellesley Hills 
station of the steam railroad, which just above has made its way through 
a deep rock cutting in the high ledge. Above the station is the Welles- 
ley High School building. Beyond is an attractive stone church (Uni- 
tarian). Nearly a mile farther, in a picturesque inclosure of ten acres, 
shaded by fine trees and bordered on its hither side by a gurgling brook 
overhung with water willows, stands the Wellesley Town Hall and Public 
Library building, a gift to the town by the late H. Hollis Hunnewell, 
all complete, in 1881, when the town was set off from Needham and 
incorporated (its name being taken from Mr. Hunnewell's notable estate, 



WELLESLEY 121 

which in turn was named from Mrs Hunnewell's maternal grandfather, 
Samuel Welles, who about 1750 owned the place). The Town Hall is 
of stone, in the style of a French chateau, with porch facing the square, 
surmounted by a clock. The library is a distinct part of the building, 
with a separate entrance. 

A short distance beyond we come to Wellesley Square, where is the 
Needham trolley line. Here carriages may be taken for a drive to 
the Hunnewell estate, which is generously open to the public. An 
hour may profitably be given to visiting it. The grounds embrace five 
hundred acres, of which sixty acres nearest the house have a frontage 
on the beautiful Lake Waban, named for the Indian chief who was 
Eliot's first convert. Two long avenues of fine trees extend from the 
public way to the house, on one side of which is a vast lawn, on the 
other a French parterre, or architectural garden. Broad nights of stairs 
lead down therefrom to the parapet wall along the lake front, through 
successive terraces with evergreens on either side, trimmed into various 
fanciful forms. Along the lake shore is an Italian garden, with prim 
array of formal clipped trees. Great hedges of hemlock and arbor 
vitae, fine vistas down avenues of purple beeches and white pines, 
extensive conservatories, and a graceful azalea tent, all add to the 
charm of the place. 

Near by is the Robert G. Shaw estate, a picturesque mansion house 
set among fine trees and surrounded by beautiful lawns. Not far away 
— just where the Charles River in one of its most sinuous bends forms 
the boundary line between Wellesley and Dover — is the Cheney place, 
country seat of Mrs. B. P. Cheney, widow of a pioneer in the express 
business of America and in transcontinental railroads, an estate of two 
hundred acres. The views up and down the river here enhance the 
natural beauties of the land, which is highly diversified. The estate is 
laid out in a mingling of lawns, flower gardens, woods, groves, meadows, 
and fields. The five great elms which surround the house, tradition 
says, were brought from Nonantum, now Newton, and planted here by 
one of the friendly Indian tribe whom Eliot taught. The lawn of six- 
teen acres, inclosed by fine hedges, is one of the noteworthy features. 

Still farther south — indeed almost at the southern boundary of the 
town, where Ridge Hill, two hundred feet high, slopes to the placid 
waters of Sabrina Pond — is the famous Ridge Hill farm, of eight hun- 
dred and seventy acres. This attained most of its fame during the life- 
time of a former owner, William Emerson Baker, who made a fortune in 
sewing machines, and who delighted in giving great fetes here on occa- 
sion, providing for the amusement and mystification of his guests vari- 
ous surprises, droll and bewildering, sumptuous feasts, and odd sports. 



122 W FLLESLEY COLLEGE 

But Wellesley's chief fame lies in Wellesley College, for women, which 
crowns the rounded hilltops on the north side of Waban Lake, toward 
which its 300 acres of grounds gently slope. On the lake are the col- 
lege boathouses, whence on " Float Day " go forth the class crews of 
young women to show off their prowess as oarswomen before the 
admiring gaze of relatives and friends ashore. The college is at the 
left of Central Street, through which our car continues on its way to 
Natick. A short distance beyond the square, as we cross Blossom 
Street, we catch the first glimpse of the buildings and pass Fiske Cot- 
tage at one of the entrances to the grounds. A little beyond, the white 
dome and low, square building of the Whitin Observatory — gift of 
Mrs. Sarah E. Whitin of Whitinsville — cap a gentle hillock. As we 
near the North Lodge, opposite, across the valley, on the crest of a 
fine ridge, stands College Hall, the main building, designed by Hammatt 
Billings. Its ground plan is a double Latin Cross, and its facades are 
broken by bays, pavilions, and porches, topped by towers and spires. 
Within, the great central hall is open to the glass roof, eighty feet above. 
In this building are the college offices. 

Other buildings are Stone Hall, gift of Mrs. Valeria G. Stone of Maiden, 
devoted to botanical work and dormitories, on another knoll overlook- 
ing the lake ; the Farnsworth Art Building, gift of Isaac D. Farnsworth 
of Boston, on an eminence opposite College Hall; the Music Hall, the 
Memorial Chapel, gift of Miss Elizabeth G. and Clement S. Houghton 
of Boston in memory of their father; the Chemistry Building; a group 
of dormitories of Elizabethan architecture ; Mary Hemenway Hall, with 
the Gymnasium ; the Library, endowed by Professor Eben N. Horsford ; 
the Alice Freeman Palmer Memorial. The main avenue winds through 
woodland and meadow from College Hall to the East Lodge at the 
entrance on Washington Street. 

Wellesley College was founded by the Hon. Henry F. Durant, formerly a 
conspicuous member of the Massachusetts bar, who died in Wellesley in 1SS1, 
aged fifty-nine. The greater part of his fortune was devoted to its establishment 
as a non-sectarian institution for the purpose " of giving to young women oppor- 
tunities for education equivalent to those usually provided in colleges for young 
men." In this work he had the ardent cooperation of his wife, Mrs. Pauline 
Adeline (Fowle) Durant, who continues, since his death, her devotion to the work 
which jointly they planned. The college was chartered in 1S71 and formally 
opened in 1875. The scheme of its founder included these features: a faculty 
of women and a selected board of trustees composed of both women and men, 
in whom the property of the college and its official control should be vested. 

Our car passes for nearly a mile along the northern side of the college 
estate, and at the farther end stands another lodge at its western entrance. 



NATICK AND NEEDHAM 123 



NATICK AND NEEDHAM 

We continue along Central Street and soon cross the line into the 
town of Natick. At our left rises Broad 's Hill, three hundred feet 
high ; at our right is the railroad, close alongside. We reach Natick 
station in fifteen minutes from Wellesley Square. The village is chiefly 
devoted to shoe manufacturing. Here is the Morse Institute Library, 
founded by the bequest of Mary Ann Morse, who died in 1862. It 
was dedicated on Christmas day, 1873. Here also is the former 
homestead of Henry Wilson, the " Natick cobbler," as he was known for 
many years, who rose from the shoemaker's bench to the Senate of the 
United States and the Vice Presidency. It is a roomy, plain house of 
wood, painted white, standing back a little way from the street, under 
majestic elms. In the square near the station is the Soldiers' Monument 
of the Civil War, flanked by brass siege guns. 

A branch trolley line runs hence to Needham, and if we desire to see 
more relics of the Indian apostle Eliot, we may take the car to South 
Natick, only a mile and a half southeast. On the way we pass over 
Carver Hill, two hundred and eighty feet high, whence a splendid view 
of the upper Charles River country is gained. In the South Natick 
village center stood the Eliot Oak, under which, tradition says, Eliot 
preached his first sermon to his then newly established plantation of 
praying Indians, in 1650. Here he did much of his work of translating 
the Bible into the Indian language ; and here, in 1651, his converts built 
their first schoolhouse and church. Here, also, are to be seen the Eliot 
Monument, set up by the citizens in 1847, and the headstone from the 
grave of Daniel Takawambait, the first native minister, set into a granite 
block alongside the near-by sidewalk. The Eliot Church (Unitarian) 
is the fifth on the site of the rude structure reared by the red men. It 
is a typical New England meetinghouse of the early nineteenth century. 
It has no connection, except by name and location, with that founded by 
Eliot. 

South Natick is said to have been the original Oldtown of Harriet 
Beecher Stowe's " Oldtown Folks." 

From here to Needham, about five miles, the route lies mostly through 
a smiling farming country. We cross the Charles twice within a mile, 
and at Charles River Village, which we pass midw r ay, its waters drive 
some paper mills. Needham is a quiet, dignified village of the conven- 
tional type, with a fine new high-school building and one or two other 
public edifices of brick. 

Changing here to a car for Newton, a ride of a mile north brings us 
to Highlandville, the north village of Needham, where a Carnegie public 



124 ECHO BRIDGE 

library stands conspicuously, and where are a couple of shoe factories. 
Two miles farther, in a generally northeasterly direction, the trolley 
line again crosses the Charles River, which, since we left it at South 
Natick, has made divagations into Dover and Dedham, skirted West 
Roxbury, and has assumed a path of comparative rectitude as the 
boundary line between Needham and Newton. 

THE SOUTHERN NEWTONS 

The railway enters the factory village of Newton Upper Falls, and 
traverses several rather depressing streets in the zigzags necessary for 
the car to mount the lofty brownstone cliff through which the river cut 
its way in ages past, and at the foot of which the village nestles. 

It will interest us more if we leave the car just before it crosses the 




Rustic Bridge and Cave, Hemlock Gorge 

bridge and take the path, plainly marked, to the left, into Hemlock Gorge, 
one of the smallest but most picturesque of the Metropolitan Park Reser- 
vations. Its area is only about twenty-four acres, but it includes a wild, 
rocky chasm, through which the swift, narrow river makes its way, dense 
thickets, and a grand growth of old hemlocks towering over all. This 
park was established in 1895. At its upper end is the famous Echo 
Bridge, perhaps the most photographed bit of masonry in the neighbor- 
hood of Boston. It is a finely proportioned structure, reminding one 
much of the noted Cabin John Bridge near Washington, though on a 
smaller scale. It is the means by which the aqueduct from the Sudbury 
River crosses the Charles on its way to Boston. We may walk across it, 
enjoying the attractive outlook over the river, the falls, and the gorge, 



NEWTON CENTER 125 

and descend by the stone stairs to the bank of the stream and try the 
remarkable echoes which give the bridge its name. From the northern 
end of the bridge a narrow plank walk between two houses brings us 
out to Chestnut Street, where we may again take the car, which, sweep- 
ing around the right, along the edge of the high cliff, gives a good view 
of the village at its foot. 

The most direct route from Boston to Echo Bridge and Hemlock Gorge is by 
a Boston & Worcester trolley car, which passes over the Back Bay, through Brook- 
line and Newton, directly to the upper end of the Gorge, where the deep, black 
water sweeps through the narrow chasm close beside the track. Alighting here, 
one can explore the reservation in a short time. By this route, also, it is a delight- 
ful ride to Wellesley Hills (where the line crosses that of the Natick cars by which 
we came out), and so on to Framingham and Worcester. 

Continuing a mile or so farther, in the same general direction, we 
cross the tracks of the New York Central Railroad, and also those of 
the Boston & Worcester electric railway, at the neat and busy village 
of Newton Highlands. All about on the swelling slopes, in attractive 
modem houses, dwell many of Boston's business men. Swinging around 
to the left into Walnut Street, our course is over a wooded eminence 
thickly studded with residences. Descending its farther slope, we pass 
on our left the Gothic arched entrance of the Newtoii Cemetery, one of 
the most beautiful, by nature and art, of any around Boston. A little 
farther down we see, away to our left, the great power house of the street 
railway system. 

At the Newton Boulevard, where is a commodious waiting room, one 
may transfer to cars for Boston or to other parts of Newton. We might 
take a side trip hence to Newton Center via Homer Street, but the route 
is not particularly attractive ; a better way to that pretty village is 
reached by taking a Boulevard car from Boston, and changing at Centre 
Street. This route passes the old burying ground of the town, where 
lie the first settlers, a great granite monument of modem date bearing 
their names. Of a later period are the graves of heroes of the French 
and Indian and Revolutionary wars, — Major General William Hull, 
Brigadier General Michael Jackson and sons, officers in the Revolu- 
tion, the son and namesake of the apostle Eliot, and others noted 
in the early annals of the town. The old first parish church formerly 
fronted this ground, and its first pastor was buried here in 1668. At 
Newton Center are many beautiful residences, and on Institution Hill 
stand the buildings of the Newton Theological Institution, founded by 
the Baptists in 1826, as a training school for the ministry. Its grounds 
are extensive, and the view in all directions is inspiring. Within the past 



i 2 6 NEWTON VILLE 

few years, under the presidency of the Rev. Nathan E. Wood, D.D., 
much money has been added to the funds of the school, a new library, 
chapel, and dormitories have been built, and the whole hilltop has been 
laid out in most attractive landscape style. At the foot of the hill lies 
Crystal Lake, as the former Wiswall's Pond is known. It was named 
from old Elder Wiswall, in whose homestead it was included. A splen- 
did road around its shores is one of the attractions of " the Center." 
The stone Baptist church, of Romanesque architecture, is one of the 
finest in Boston suburbs. 

But our car is bound north, to Newtonville, and immediately after 
crossing the Boulevard we pass a forest-covered hill on the left, while 
to our right is a deep, shady valley, through which brawls a swift brook 
down rocky ridges. It is a charming section, and some of the prettiest 
homes of the city are along this way. One famous estate which we 
soon go by is Brooklawn, once the home of General Hull, of Revolu- 
tionary fame ; since 1854 that of the late ex-Governor William Claflin, who 
dispensed hospitality to many distinguished guests here. Just beyond, 
on the left, is the stately High School ; on the other side, the Claflin 
School; and again on the left, the attractive house and grounds of the 
Newton Club. A little farther on we come to the business center of 
Newtonville, where we cross the New York Central tracks and Wash- 
ington Street. Here change may be made for Newton proper and most 
of the other villages. Soon we turn into Watertown Street and pass 
through the village of Nonantum, where on the left are the Nonantum 
worsted mills ; also a tiny pond, bearing the lofty title of Silver Lake. 

In a few minutes, turning sharply to the right, we are in Galen 
Street, in the small corner of Watertown lying south of the Charles, 
leading to the broad new bridge, replacing an old-time one, by which 
we are to cross into Watertown Square. 

As we cross the grand stone bridge we miss the granite tablets which 
were on either side of the old bridge. These were erected by the late 
Professor Eben N. Horsford, one of them to mark his Norsemen sites, 
— that on the left inscribed "Outlook upon the stone dam and stone- 
walled docks and wharves of Norumbega, the seaport of the Northmen 
in Vineland." The other had this inscription : " The old bridge by the 
mill crossed Charles River near this spot as early as 1641." 

WALTHAM 

It is but a few steps to Watertown Square, where cars from Boston 

and Cambridge arrive by several routes, and where we change to a car 

for Waltham. Our course all the way is along old Main Street, to the 

foot of Prospect Hill, at the terminus of the route. Here we alight 



WALTHAM 127 

and, following the plain directions on guideboards, climb, first by the 
street crossing the Central Massachusetts Division of the Boston & 
Maine Railroad, and afterward by a winding path through the natural 
woodland park which the city of Waltham has made of the upper part 
of the hill, to its summit. From the outlook, four hundred and eighty- 
two feet above sea level, — the highest eminence in the Metropolitan dis- 
trict except the Great Blue Hill in Milton, — we may see to the north, on 
a clear day, as far as Kearsarge (seventy-five miles) and several other 
mountains of southern New Hampshire ; as w T ell as Wachusett, Watatic, 
and Asnybumskit in central Massachusetts. The view embraces all the 
towns within a radius of twenty miles or more. In taking this noble 
hill and laying it out as a reservation, the city has wisely refrained 
from " fixing it up " or making it a " parky " affair. Its wildness and 
naturalness are its chief charms. 

Returning to Main Street, we will take a car for about a mile east, 
passing along the pleasant, shaded thoroughfare, to the Common, on 
which stands the Soldiers' Monument, and near which is the station of 
the Fitchburg Division, Boston & Maine Railroad. A branch of the 
trolley company's lines to Newton, by the Moody Street bridge, crosses 
the Cha?-les River just south of the Common. On our way down from 
Prospect Hill, three or four blocks before reaching the Common, we 
pass on the left a great elm on the comer of Upper Main Street and 
Grant Avenue, w T hich bears a tablet stating that General Burgoyne's 
army halted under its branches when on the march from Saratoga to 
Cambridge in 1777. 

That was when Burgoyne and his men, taken prisoners at Saratoga, 
were being escorted by their Continental captors to imprisonment on 
Prospect Hill, Somerville, then a part of Charlestown. One division 
of the prisoners came this way, through Lexington ; the other, via 
Weston and Newton. 

The great works of the American Waltham Watch Company, on the 
south side of the river, for Waltham includes in its limits quite a slice 
of trans-Charles territory, attract many visitors. These are the most 
extensive watch-making factories in the world, and the buildings are 
not only immense but are ornamental in design and surrounded by 
handsome grounds adorned w T ith flower beds and shrubbery. 

Waltham is famous also as having been the birthplace and lifelong home of 
Nathaniel Prentiss Banks, " the bobbin boy " as he was called in the days of his 
early political successes, who became, successively and rapidly, inspector in the 
Boston Custom House, member of the legislature, member of constitutional con- 
vention, congressman and speaker of the House (after a contest lasting two 
months and requiring one hundred and thirty-two ballots to decide it), all 



[28 WATERTOWN 

before he was forty ; later, governor of the state, major general in the Civil War, 
congressman again, and United States Marshal. See his statue in the State 
House Park (p. 44). 

On lower Main Street, near the Watertown line, we pass on the left the 
famous old Governor Gore house, built by Christopher Gore, friend of 
Washington, governor and senator of Massachusetts, and donor of the 
first Harvard College Library, named for him Gore Hall. It is a sightly 
dwelling, well placed on a gentle slope overlooking the street and shaded 
by majestic elms. It is of brick, and in its early days was perhaps the 
finest of suburban residences. It was long preserved in its original char- 
acter by the family of the late Theophilus W. Walker, who for many 
years resided here. 

WATERTOWN 

We cross the boundary of Watertown and soon are at the village 
green, to the left, where the Soldiers' Monument stands, and there is 
a roomy playground for the children. Just beyond, the Public Library 
(a brick building with pillars in front), is perhaps the most noteworthy 
piece of modern architecture in the town center. On the river front, 
occupying a commanding position on rising ground, more impressive 
buildings are to be seen in the dignified group comprising the Per- 
kins Institution for the Blind, the beneficent establishment founded in 
1826, developed by Dr. Samuel G. Howe from 1S29, and removed to 
this place in 191 2 from its original seat in South Boston. 

At the square in Watertown, the choice of three routes back to 
Boston is open to us: via North Beacon Street, along the river into 
Brighton and Allston; via Arsenal Street and Western Avenue into 
Cambridge ; and via Mount Auburn Street to Cambridge Subway. 

The second is the proper way if one washes to visit the United States 
Arsenal, a collection of large buildings of brick, with slate roofs, inclosed 
in one hundred acres of grounds, lying between Arsenal Street and the 
river. Here is a complete equipment of machinery, heavy and fine, for 
the manufacture of artillery, projectiles, and gun carriages. Permission 
to enter and view the works is easily obtained from the commandant's 
office. Close at hand also are the yards of the Watertown Cattle Market, 
beside the railroad station known as Union Market. 

But the route toward Boston which contains most of historic interest, 
as well as attractiveness of surroundings, is that by Mount Auburn 
Street, which diverges from the square to the left of the other two. 
Since we may change cars here, it will pay us to walk a few rods 
to Marshall Street, turning up to the left to read the tablet marking 
the site of the Marshall Fowle House, in which General Joseph W T arren 



WATERTOWN 129 

spent the night before the battle of Bunker Hill. James Warren, his 
successor as president of the Provincial Congress, afterward occupied 
this Fowle house, and here his wife entertained Mrs. Washington in 
1775, when on her way from Mount Vernon to Cambridge in her own 
coach and four, with negro postilions in liveries of scarlet and white, 
a guard of honor, and a military escort. There was some pomp and 
gorgeousness even in those simple and primitive republican days. 

Next beyond Marshall Street (left) is Common Street, one of the 
most interesting points in our journey, for here is the old burying 
ground and churchyard of the fourth meetinghouse of the First Parish. 
The building itself was demolished in 1836, and its successor was placed 
nearer the business center of the town. In this old church, built in 
1755, were held the Boston town meetings during the Siege, and here 
— as a massive stone tablet against the fence informs — sat the Pro- 
vincial Congress from April 22 to July 19, 1775; here the "Great and 
General Court," or Assembly, was originated and held its sessions from 
July 29, 1775, to November 9, 1776, and from June 2 to 23, 1778. In 
March, 1776, this church was selected as the one in which to hold the 
observance of the Boston Massacre, when the oration was delivered by 
the Rev. Peter Thacher of Maiden, on " The Dangerous Tendencies of 
Standing Armies in Times of Peace." 

Nearly all the way to the Cambridge line we pass pleasant estates 
on either side ; but our next point of historic interest is at the corner 
of Grove Street, on the right, where the old burying ground, dating 
from 1642 and originally adjoining the first meetinghouse of the 
settlement, lies directly on the highway, separated from it only by a 
low wall. In the grass-grown and vine-covered grounds are ancient 
gravestones of quaint design, the earliest date being 1674. 

Here stands a granite obelisk, presented to the town on the one 
hundredth anniversary of the contests at Lexington and Concord by 
the descendants of John Coolidge, the one Watertown man killed in 
the running fight with the British flank guard near Arlington Heights. 

Continuing toward Cambridge we come to Belmont Street on the 
left, from which, if we choose, we may walk through Coolidge Street 
to another of the Norse memorials marked by Professor Horsford as the 
amphitheater or assembly place of those earliest discoverers. It is a 
spacious, natural, semicircular depression in the earth, its sloping sides 
broken into six terraces or benches, thickly grass-grown. 

Returning to Mount Auburn Street we are soon by the Mount 
Auburn station, and here we may take a train for Boston over the 
Fitchburg Division of the Boston & Maine Railroad, or a trolley car 
for the Cambridge Subway and the return to Boston. 



130 MILTON 



MILTON AND THE BLUE HILLS 

The quickest way to reach Milton is by a train on the Milton branch 
of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad, leaving the South 
Station at twenty-three minutes past each hour and reaching Milton 
station in about twelve minutes. The pleasantest way is by trolley car 
(Ashmont and Milton) from the Subway via Mount Pleasant ; or by 
elevated train to Dudley Street station, thence by surface car to Grove 
Hall transfer station, and changing there to a Milton car via Washington 
Street, Dorchester, and Codman Hill. Taking this last-mentioned route 
we have a particularly fine view of the harbor and islands from the 
point near Melville Avenue, where the street passes over one shoulder 
of Mount Bowdoin. We also pass several of the pleasantest estates in 
Dorchester, and the old Second Parish Church (on the left at Norfolk 
and Centre streets), dating from 1807, a typical New England meeting- 
house of that period. Farther on, as our route continues over Codman 
Hill, past the old Codman mansion house, now a daily farmhouse, we 
roll along under noble old trees and have a taste of real country air 
from the hillside, studded with buttercups in their season. 

At the village known as Milton Lower Mills, though the larger part 
of it is on the Boston side of the Neponset River, the Boston Elevated 
system ends and other lines start out, — for Dedham via Hyde Park, 
and for Brockton via Randolph, connecting at both points with lines to 
other places. Whether we have come out by steam or electricity, we 
shall want to walk about a little here. The chief industry of the village 
is the manufacture of chocolate, and the great stone-trimmed brick build- 
ings of the Walter Baker Company cover a large space on both sides 
of the river and utilize its considerable water power. From the bridge 
one gets a view on the left of the slight falls ; and in a rock rising above 
the water is set a bolt bearing a tablet with an inscription recording 
that the tide of April 16, 1S51, reached the top of the bolt. This was 
the famous high tide of the storm which destroyed the Minot's Ledge 
lighthouse, and was six feet eight and one-half inches above the average 
high water, here about ten feet. 

Only a little way beyond the bridge, on the Milton side, — a short 
flight of steps up from the Milton steam railroad station brings us 
directly to it, — stands the "Suffolk Resolves" house, shaded by three 
venerable English elms, which has been called the "birthplace of Amer- 
ican liberty." It is a two-story yellow, double house, of which one half 
is now devoted to a watchmaker's shop. Beside the pillared portico a 
marble tablet bears an inscription in antique Roman characters, relating 
the history of the Suffolk Resolves, which, adopted in this mansion by 



MILTON HILL 131 

delegates from the Suffolk County towns September 9, 1774, "led the 
way to American Independence." 

At the time of the convention the house was the mansion of Daniel Vose, 
the great man of the section, owner of several of the industries of the town 
— his chocolate mills, founded in 1765, were the first in the colonies — and a 
zealous patriot. The convention was composed of delegates from the nineteen 
towns then comprised in Suffolk County, which also included all now embraced 
in Norfolk County. They had held their first session in the old Woodward 
Tavern at Dedham a day or two before. Paul Revere was the messenger who 
carried the Resolves to Philadelphia. 

Continuing up the gentle slope of Adams Street we pass several old- 
time houses on either side of the road. One on the right, just where 
Canton and Randolph avenues branch off, was in early days the Rising 
Sun Tavern. Canton Avenue is the direct route by the Great Blue Hill 
to Canton, while Randolph Avenue cuts through the Blue Hills Reserva- 
tion farther south, and continues on to Randolph and Brockton. A 
line of trolley cars (of the Old Colony system) diverging to the right 
lower down the slope, at Central Avenue, skirts the base of the hill, 
passes through Milton Center, and comes out in Randolph Avenue 
before reaching the Reservation, affording an easy means of arriving at 
this great pleasure ground, — the largest of the Metropolitan system. 

But there are reasons for prolonging our walk a little farther up 
Milton Hill, on Adams Street. All along the way are fine old estates 
which have been handed down from generation to generation of fami- 
lies noted in local — and some in national — annals. On the left side 
a pleasantly situated villa was the home of Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney, 
though her early home, in which her first works were written, was in 
Milton village. A few steps beyond, on the right, stands a house of 
modem exterior, well back from the street, in whose fabric is incor- 
porated the historic house of Governor Hutchinson, his country seat. 
To this house he withdrew at the time of the closing anti-tea meetings 
in the Old South Meetinghouse in Boston ; and it was from this 
house that he started on his final voyage to England in June, 1774, 
never, as it fell out, to return. Its situation is indeed a most pleasant 
one, as he described it to George III, and the view which it commands 
across the meadow at the foot of the hill is yet an exceptionally fine 
prospect. It is gratifying to observe that the great field in front, on 
the lower side of the street, has been taken for a public reservation, as 
Governor Hutchinson 's Meld, so that the lovely prospect is safe from the 
obstruction of buildings. 

Hutchinson's vast estate was confiscated in the Revolution and was 
subsequently sold. Since 1829 it has been in the Russell family. 



132 MILTON 

At the top of the hill the old Dr. Holbrook mansion, built in 1S01, 
is noted for having been the scene of a brilliant entertainment to 
Lafayette during his last visit to America, in 1824. Beyond are the 
extensive estates so long associated with the Forbes family, — John M., 
the master spirit of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad for 
many years ; J. Malcolm, equally noted in connection with the American 
Bell Telephone Company; Captain Robert B. and J. Murray Forbes; 
also the fine country seat of the late Oliver W. Peabody of the Boston 
banking house of Kidder, Peabody & Co.; and farther on the summer 
place of his partner, the late Henry P. Kidder. 

At the old " Algerine Corner" — now commonplace Union Square — 
a road on the right diverges to the town center. At Otis Street, a little 
beyond, was, in provincial times, the estate of the royal governor, Jonathan 
Belcher, bought by him about 1 728, and his country seat during his service 
of about eleven years. It was he who placed along the road to Boston 
the Belcher milestones, one of which is to be seen in the wall of the 
Peabody place, bearing the legend " 8 miles to B Town House. The 
Lower way. 1734." 

Adams Street continues through the square past East Milton, a half 
mile farther on, a bustling village, its trade having a granite foundation, 
— quite naturally, for it adjoins West Quincy, where are the quarries 
which give to Quincy the title of " the granite city." We might pro- 
long our walk to East Milton and there take a car to Quincy, only three 
and a half miles distant. It would be better, however, to look over 
the northern part of Milton and go to Quincy by another route. From 
Union Square, Centre Street runs "cross town" to Randolph Avenue, 
which we left at the beginning of our walk. By way of Centre Street 
a walk of some three quarters of a mile would bring us to the old 
Town Cemetery, where rest the forefathers of many present citizens, 
the oldest gravestone bearing date of 1687. The Ministerial Tomb is 
near the entrance, and has a quaint inscription setting forth that it is 
" to be, abide and remain forever " as such. The names of the first 
minister, Peter Thacher, who died in 1727, his wife Susanna, and 
several succeeding ministers and their families are inscribed on the 
upright slab. Near the middle of this burying ground is a monument 
which attracts the most attention. This is the granite bowlder over the 
grave of Wendell Phillips and his wife. Phillips died February 2, 1884, 
and his body was first placed in the Phillips family tomb in the Old 
Granary Burying Ground, Boston, but after the death of Mrs. Phillips, 
two years later, it was removed hither. The inscription on the bowlder 
was written by him and it attests the simplicity and the chivalry of 
the man : 



BLUE HILLS RESERVATION 



133 



Ann and Wendell Phillips. 

Died April 24, 1886 February 2, li 

Aged 73. Aged 73. 



Passing through the burying ground we emerge near Randolph 
Avenue, where stands the famous old Milton Academy, founded in 
1 805-1 806, and a good type of the New England academy of that 
epoch modernized. A 
little farther on, at 
White Street, we reach 
Milton Center, or Milton 
Churches, as this sec- 
tion is more generally 
known, the group of 
buildings set in the 
pleasant square and 
shaded by lofty elms. 
The twin churches, as 
the local title goes, are 
the Unitarian (succes- 
sor of the original First 
Parish Church) and the 
East Church (Evangeli- 
cal Congregational), 
founded in 1834, when 
the great schism in 
New England theology 
took place. Between 
them stands the Toivn 
House and at one side 
the high school. A fine 
Public Library of brick 
with granite trimmings is near completion close by. 

Here we may take the car which has come around through Central 
Avenue and now makes in a southeasterly direction for Randolph Avenue, 
which it follows for nearly a mile before the edge of the Blue Hills Reserva- 
tion is reached. Through the Reservation it runs for nearly two miles. 
Crossing the range between Chickatawbut Hill on the left and Hancock 
Hill on the right, one has a fine view over much of the chain of emi- 
nences, Great Blue Hill, away beyond Hancock, with the weather 
observatory and kite-flying station on its summit, being in plain sight fol 
a considerable distance. 




Observatory, Great Blue Hill 



134 MATTAPAN AND THE NEPONSET 

From near the " twin churches " Thacher Street runs northwesterly 
for about a mile (past the site of the house built in 1689 by the Rev. 
Peter Thacher, first minister of the town) to the Blue Hills Parkway 
of the Metropolitan system, which leads into the western (or Great 
Blue) section of the Reservation. The trolley line, which runs through 
the parkway for a short distance, then, diverging, follows Blue Hill and 
Canton avenues south to Canton and Stoughton, furnishes a speedy 
means of reaching the Great Blue Hill. The car leaves one at a point 
where an easy foot path — cut through the woods from the old bridle 
path to the summit — emerges upon Canton Avenue. 

It is a pretty walk along the broad and shaded parkway to the river, 
which here is spanned by a new stone bridge, built by the Metropolitan 
Park Board. Crossing it we are in Mattapan, the most southwesterly 
village of the Dorchester District, Boston, whence we have a choice of 
ways for the return journey, — street cars via Blue Hill Avenue and 
Franklin Park, trains over the Milton branch from a station close by 
the river, or over the Midland Division, station half a mile north, at the 
crossing of Blue Hill Avenue. The Milton branch route takes us for 
two or three miles alongside, and twice across, the picturesque Neponset, 
whose shores are now protected by the Metropolitan Board, and amid 
whose wooded nooks one catches a glimpse of a rustic footbridge and 
the sheen of a little waterfall. 

QUINCY 

Quincy is quite easy of access either by train or trolley. By train 
from the South Station (Plymouth Division, New York, New Haven & 
Hartford Railroad) the distance is eight miles and the fare fifteen cents. 
By electric car from Washington and Franklin streets to Neponset 
Bridge, or by the Ashmont and Milton line to Field's Corner, there 
transferring to the Neponset car, — and from Neponset Bridge to 
Quincy, — the distance is about the same, and the fare is ten cents. 
By either way the route is similar, — out through South Boston and 
the bay side of the Dorchester District to the village of Neponset 
at the mouth of the river (after crossing which we are in the bounds 
of the city of Quincy), but a short distance from the station and village 
of Atlantic, after which follow Norfolk Downs, Wollaston, and Quincy 
Center, — all within three miles. The tracks of the steam and electric 
roads run parallel and close to each other most of the way. 

Arrived at Quincy, all the places of historic interest are within a short 
radius. Right at the square, where the trolley line connects with other 
lines for the Weymouths, Brockton, and elsewhere, and within a gunshot 



QUINCY 



x 35 




of the railroad station, stands the " Granite Temple," as the present 
First Parish Church, built in 1828, is called, from a phrase in the will 
of John Adams, who, in leaving to the town certain granite quarries, 
enjoined upon his townsmen to build " a temple " to receive his remains. 
His injunction was well obeyed. The structure, with its front Doric 
pillars supporting a pediment and square tower with colonnaded belfry 
crowned by a dome, is a good specimen of the architecture of the first 
half of the nineteenth century. Its interior is dignified. The mural 
monuments here commemorate the two Presidents of the Adams family 
and their wives, and the tablets 
are to the memory of John Wheel- 
wright, the first minister, banished 
for " heresy " with Coddington, 
Anne Hutchinson, and others, 
and to other later pastors. 

In the basement beneath the 
church are the tombs of the two 
Presidents and their wives in 
granite sarcophagi. Application 
to the sexton and the payment 
of a modest fee prescribed by 
the church enables the visitor to 
descend into the electrically 
lighted vault and, through a doorway protected by a grille, to gaze upon 
the tombs. On either side of the doorway are inscriptions on marble 
tablets. 

The body of the ancient black hearse in which the remains of the 
Presidents were conveyed is also preserved in this basement in a glass 
case. 

Across the way from the church is the granite City Hall, and close 
by is the old burying ground where are the graves of the early min- 
isters of the parish, among them John Hancock, father of the famous 
"signer" and governor; the tombs of Dr. Leonard Hoar, third presi- 
dent of Harvard College, and his wife and mother ; of Henry Adams, 
immigrant ancestor of the Adams family ; of John Quincy Adams, in 
which his body was placed before removal to the church opposite ; of 
the first of the Quincys — Edmond ; and of Josiah Quincy, Jr., who 
at thirty-one years of age died, in 1775, on the ship which was bringing 
him back from his mission to England in behalf of the patriots. 

Near by, on Washington Street, is the fine Crane Public Library, and 
not far away, on Hancock Street, the Adams Academy, founded by a gift 
to the town in 1822 by President John Adams, and opened in 1872 — a 



Home of Dorothy Qui 



136 



ADAMS FAMILY 



classical school of high order. On Adams Street, which diverges to the 
west and continues through to West Quincy and Milton, stands the 
famous Adams mansion, originally the country seat of Leonard Vassall, 
a West Indian planter and a royalist like all of his name. Sequestered 
in the Revolution, it became the home of President John Adams from 
17S7 till his death. In it were celebrated his golden wedding and the 
weddings of his son, President John Quincy Adams, and of his grand- 
son, Charles Francis Adams, Sr., once minister to Great Britain. It is 
now occupied by the great-grandson, Brooks Adams, and much of the 
interior finish and furniture is retained. 

On Hancock Street, facing Bridge Street, is the old Quincy mansion 
house, containing some part of the original dwelling of Edmond 

Quincy, built about 1634, and dating 
itself from 1705. Here was bom 
Dorothy Quincy, the original of Dr. 
Holmes's poem, " Dorothy Q.," whose 
granddaughter was the poet's mother. 
Another Dorothy Quincy, descendant 
of the first, was the wife of John 
Hancock. 

From the square, in a southeastern 
direction, we walk or take a Brockton 
car past the old burial ground of Christ 
Church, Braintree (the present city of Quincy was part of Braintree from 
1640 to 1792), in whose grass-grown mounds repose many of the early 
settlers. 

At the corner of Independence Street and Franklin Avenue the car 
passes two time-stained houses standing close together, restored and 
maintained as sacred memorials, to which the attention of more visitors 
is turned than to any other buildings in Quincy. The older and smaller 
house is the birthplace of John Adams. The other and larger house, 
with the old well sweep in the back yard, is the birthplace of John Quincy 
Adams. It was presented by the present Charles Francis Adams 
t<> the Quincy Historical Society, which has restored it to its original 
condition and made it a museum of historic relics. 

Much of the early history of the Massachusetts Bay Colony is related 
to this old town, notably Mount Wollaston, the high ground at the next 
station on the way into Boston. It was the " Merrymount " of Thomas 
Morton, whose revels with his crew of graceless roysterers and his may- 
pole, set up in 1627, caused his banishment by the stem Puritan elders. 
The zealous antiquarian might spend days in tracing out the historic 
sites and in viewing the historic mansions of Quincy. 




Birthplace of John Adams 



DEDHAM 137 



DEDHAM 



Dedham is one of the oldest of the suburban towns, and was at first 
one of the most extensive. Its territory, allotted by the General Court 
in 1635 to twenty-two proprietors, who had moved hither from Water- 
town and Roxbury a few months before, embraced nearly all of the pres- 
ent Norfolk County. In August they had signed a " town covenant " 
binding them to " walk in a peaceful conversation " and to establish " a 
loving and comfortable society." The name they proposed for their 
settlement was Contentment. The General Court, however, overruled 
their choice and gave the new parish the title of Dedham from the 
English town whence several of the settlers had come. It is a quiet, 
dignified old town, with majestic trees shading its streets, many old man- 
sions, and picturesque river views. The Charles River, with its " Great 
Bend," encircles the northern end of the town, and the Neponset River 
is on its eastern border. The two streams are connected by " Mother 
Brook," the oldest canal in the country, dug by the enterprising colo- 
nists in 1 639-1 640. Several lofty hills break the surface of the town, 
and there are beautiful drives and trolley rides in several directions — 
notably to Westwood (formerly West Dedham), three miles from the 
center. The main street is High Street, running nearly east and west 
through the village and then turning off sharply to the southwest on 
its way to Westwood and Medway. Along this street are scattered 
most of the historic monuments. 

We reach Dedham by train over the Providence Division, New 
York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad (though we could go in an 
electric car from Forest Hills), and alight at the stone station, with its 
imposing clock tower, at the center of the village. One block away is 
the granite Memorial Hall, serving the double purpose of a town house 
and a monument to the soldiers of the town who served in the Civil 
War. On the corner of Church Street, next above, is the low-arched 
brick building of the Dedham Historical Society, with an interesting col- 
lection of antiquities and documents. On the right-hand side of High 
Street, a little farther on, is the old Dr. Nathaniel Ames house, the home 
of the famous almanac maker from 1772 to his death, fifty years later. 
Just beyond stood till 1897 the Fisher Ames house, the home of 
Nathaniel's distinguished brother. This is now removed to River 
Place, and with enlargements and improvements has become the home 
of Frederick J. Stimson, author and lawyer. 

On the next street at the right, Ames Street, is the site of the old Wood- 
ward Tavern, dating from 1658, where met the Suffolk Convention in 
1774, which at its adjourned meeting in the Vose mansion at Milton 



i3« 



COURT HOUSE AND FAIRBANKS HOUSE 



adopted the Suffolk Resolves. Just above Ames Street on High Street 
is the mansion house built in 1795 by Judge Samuel Haven, in front of 
which are several stately English elms brought from England in 1762, 
still vigorous and full of foliage. Opposite is the granite Court House, 
surmounted by a dome, for Dedham is the shire town of Norfolk County. 
Next beyond the Court House is the ancient Village Green, in the 
comer of which stands the locally famous "Pitt's Head," or Pillar of 
Liberty, a square granite pedestal about two feet high, which formerly 
was surmounted by a tall wooden column and a bust of William Pitt. 
It was erected July 22, 1767. A bronze tablet on its eastern face, 
placed in 1S86, on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the 
town, gives its history. 

At the upper end of the Green stands the Unitarian Church, built in 
1763, the third in succession from the original parish meetinghouse 

built in 1638. Just across 
High Street is the First 
Congregational Church, also 
ancient and, like the other, 
in the conventional Wren 
style. Along both sides of 
the street for some distance 
are houses mostly dating 
from the late eighteenth and 
early nineteenth centuries, 
very comfortable looking, 
with their ample lawns 
shaded by great elms. 
Two objects of special historic interest are easily reached by a short 
walk from the center. Along Eastern Avenue, which runs south from 
the railroad station and curves around through rows of water willows to 
East Street, is the way to the Fairbanks house, one of the oldest houses 
in the country. It was built about 1650 by Jonathan Fairbanks, to 
whom the lands surrounding it were allotted in 1637. In 1896 it was 
purchased by Mrs. J. Amory Codman and daughter of Boston, to save it 
from destruction. Previous to that time it had always been owned by 
a Fairbanks. In 1903 the " Fairbanks Family in America" being incor- 
porated, acquired the property to be kept permanently in the family as 
an historic home. 

The other historic relic, only a short distance from the Fairbanks 
house, is the "Avery oak." It is a great tree, older than the town, with 
a circumference, five feet from the ground, of sixteen feet. Its owner 
at the time is said to have refused seventy dollars for it from the 




Old Fairbanks House 



WINTHROP 139 

builders of the Constitution, who desired it for timber for " Old Iron- 
sides." It is still sturdy and thrifty. It has been secured for preservation 
by the Dedham Historical Society. 

WINTHROP AND REVERE 

Winthrop alone among the northern suburbs of Boston is without a 
trolley line, and that it has none is due to the excellent service afforded 
by the Winthrop circuit of the Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad. 
The ferry house and station of this railroad are at Rowe's Wharf, 
directly opposite the elevated railway station of the same name. The 
ferryboats leave every fifteen minutes daily, connecting with trains at 
Jeffries Point, on the East Boston side of the harbor; and the fare to 
any of the nine stations in Winthrop is but five cents. The line makes 
a loop around the town, reaching every section of it, and the trains 
alternate in direction. 

Winthrop is an ancient settlement but a comparatively modern town. 
For nearly a century after the first settlement its territory belonged to 
Boston, but in 1739 it became a part of Chelsea. In 1846 it was joined 
to Revere (the Rumney Marsh of early days) to form the new town 
of North Chelsea. It became an independent town six years later, 
taking the name of Winthrop in commemoration of Deane Winthrop, 
sixth son of Governor John Winthrop, who lived here for many 
years in a house still preserved, and here died about 1703 or 1704, 
aged 81. The first name of the hamlet was Pullen Poynt, but the 
year 1753 saw the establishment of a codfishery station at the 
extreme eastern end, and the " syndicate " which promoted that 
enterprise rechristened the place Point Shirley, from the governor of 
the Province. The fishery " trust " proved a failure, but Point Shirley 
was found to be so pleasant that a number of Boston families built coun- 
try houses here, the Hancocks among the rest. A roomy brick house 
still standing at this point of the town, which retains the name of Point 
Shirley, is by some assumed to have been John Hancock's house, but 
this is doubtful. In later days the present Point Shirley became noted 
through " Taft's," a hostelry famous for its fish and game dinners, now 
only a memory. Until about 1876 Winthrop remained a slumbrous farm- 
ing town within five miles of the city across the harbor but known only 
to the few. Then it was rediscovered, and the building of the narrow- 
gauge railroad made it easy of access. With the advent of this railroad 
a beach settlement was laid out, streets with nautical names were cut 
through, and lots were sold off. A colony of summer cottages sprang 
up in a season or two, and " Ocean Spray " and " Cottage Hill " became 



140 



WINTHROP BEACH 




familiar names. In course of time substantial houses to a large extent 
replaced the shells first erected ; a beautiful, broad boulevard, with walks 
on each side, was built by the Metropolitan Parks Commission along 
the ocean front where had been a town way known as "The Crest" 
(destroyed by a gale in November, 1898); and the old farms of the 
inland part of the town became thickly covered with residences. 

The fine half-moon sweep of the Winthrop Beach, something more 
than a half mile in length, is crowned at either end by a high bluff : that 
to the seaward, the Great Head of old, now trivially named " Cottage 

Hill " ; and that at the north- 
ern end, Grover's Cliff, now 
occupied by Fort Heath, 
a strong work, mounting 
several twelve-inch rifled 
guns, which was rushed to 
completion during the Span- 
ish war. Inland a little 
way is Fort Banks, with its 
sixteen breech-loading mor- 
tars and an extensive group 
of buildings, sufficient for a 
large army post. 

On the eastern side of Crystal Bay, which almost isolates the beach 
section from the "old town," is the Winthrop Yacht Clubhouse. The 
railroad loop crosses this bay by a long bridge with a draw at the 
channel. One may spend an afternoon pleasantly by taking a train to 
Winthrop Center and walking over to the harbor side of the town. 
Along Pleasant and Sargent streets and Court Park Road is probably 
the most agreeable course, making the circuit of Court Park (so named 
in honor of Judges George B. Loring and John Lowell, who formerly 
owned the whole area now laid out in house lots), where are the 
Winthrop Golf Club's links, and continuing through Pleasant Street 
along the harbor front to the station just beyond Main Street, taking 
here a train to Winthrop Beach. From this point Cottage Hill maybe 
climbed for the view of the town, the bay, and the harbor. 

A walk along Winthrop Beach naturally follows, with the surf pounding 
on the right, and off beyond it the outer island, Nahant, to the north, 
and the open sea in view, with a glimpse occasionally of a steamer 
coming in. Near the upper end of the beach we should turn off and 
pass through Neptune Avenue and Shirley Street (the latter the old 
county road), by the Ocean Spray station of the railroad, to the old Deane 
Winthrop house on the right, marked by a tablet. A few steps farther 



Winthrop Boulevard 



REVERE BEACH RESERVATION 141 

to the intersection of Revere Street, and we are at the entrance of 
Fort Banks, the saluting battery, the brick hospital, and the command- 
ant's headquarters. We may follow Revere Street up a moderate slope 
to Summit Avenue, and taking this street to the right we shall get 
other fine views, while about us is picturesque Winthrop Highlands, as 
this section of the town is called. It is but a few steps down the east- 
ern end of Summit Avenue and along Crest Avenue (to the left) to the 
Highlands station. Here we may take the next Boston-bound train 
back to Orient Heights (as soon as we cross Belle Isle inlet we are on 
Breed's Island, the newer part of East Boston), and at this station change 
to a train passing over the main line for Crescent Beach at the lower end 
of the famous Revere Beach. On the way we pass the station at Beach- 
mont at the foot of a fine hill thickly covered with houses, the other side 
of which we have seen from Summit Avenue, Winthrop Highlands. 

At Crescent Beach the railroad is but a few rods back from the great 
beach boulevard of the Metropolitan Parks System, which extends along 
the ocean front for two miles with its splendid roadway and broad 
promenades on either side. The Revere Beach Reservation embraces 
the whole length of the beach to the Point of Pines, at the mouth 
of Saugus River. Near the middle of its length is an ornate band 
stand, and near its northern end the great State Bath House (the rail- 
road has a station just at the rear of the Bath House). The boys' bath- 
room will accommodate five hundred boys at a time. Some two hundred 
thousand patronize the Bath House in the season. All along the land 
side of the boulevard are various amusement places, — the steeplechase, 
the roller coaster, electric boats on a small lake, refreshment booths 
and restaurants, tintype galleries, theaters, moving-picture shows, and 
all the paraphernalia of a modern seaside resort for the people. Per- 
fect order is preserved by the Metropolitan Park police. On a warm 
afternoon and evening the visitors are numbered by scores of thou- 
sands, and the driving along the superb roadway makes an interesting 
pageant. 

From the southern end of the Reservation the Revere Beach Parkway 
extends nearly five and a quarter miles west to the lower end of Med- 
ford, where it joins the Felhway, leading north to the Middlesex Fells. 
The electric cars of the Boston & Northern system run through the 
turfed center of this parkway till the Revere station of the Boston & 
Maine Railroad is reached, and there the Parkway crosses the tracks 
overhead. At the Revere station they take a more direct route via 
Winthrop Avenue and Beech Street, through Revere Center to Fenno's 
Corner, whence they turn sharply off to the left into Broadway and so 
through Chelsea into Boston. 



142 CHELSEA 

Much of the history of Revere has been identical with that of Win 
throp, as we have seen. Up to 1852, when the latter town set up for 
itself, they had been associated municipally from the very first. In 1S71 
the name of North Chelsea was changed to Revere. With the excep- 
tion of its beach section and the bold drumlin now covered by the semi- 
summer-resort settlement of Beackmont, it is a quiet town, still largely 
devoted to farming, with the scattered homes of old families. On the 
way inward through Broadway, before we cross Snake or Mill Creek, 
which lies partly in the Parkway, we may see off to the left the old 
Yeaman house, built about 1680, a typical farmhouse of the early days, 
with its gambrel roof and lean-to. 

CHELSEA 

When we cross Snake Creek we are in Chelsea, which in 1634 was 
made a part of Boston by one of those terse, phonetic orders of the 
General Court, so much more definite than the long-drawn " acts " of 
our modem legislatures, that " Wynetsemt shall belong to Boston." 

Chelsea has numerous attractive features. Within its limits is the 
fine curving eminence of Powderhorn Hill, which we reach on our right 
and may ascend by a direct avenue from Broadway. The spreading 
building on its summit is the Massachusetts Soldiers' Home, originally 
erected for a summer hotel. From the pleasant lawn and long shaded 
verandas of this institution, where the broken soldiers of the Civil 
War sit and smoke their pipes through the long summer afternoons, 
one may look far down the harbor and well-nigh all over the city 
below. From the top of the old reservoir near by the view takes in 
the Mystic marshes and the whole sweep of hills bounding the Boston 
Basin. 

To the northwest of Powderhorn, and lying mostly in Everett, is 
Mount Washington, reached by Washington Avenue, through which 
trolley cars run, and to which we may cross through Summit and Win- 
throp avenues at the west end of Powderhorn. Turning into Wash- 
ington Avenue to the right, a few steps bring us to Washington Park, 
maintained by the Chelsea Park Commission. Set into the park wall 
is a large flat stone bearing this legend: This stone, once a doorstep of 
the old Pratt mansion visited by Washington during the siege of Boston, 
stands opposite the barrack-grounds of Colonel Ger risk's regiment of 

i775-7b- 

Another landmark of earlier date is the Way-Ireland house, — in later 
years the Pratt family homestead, — in which Increase Mather was in 
hiding for a time before he sailed for England in April, 1688, as agent 



SOMERVILLE, MEDFORD, AND MALDEN 143 

for the colonists, to intercede with the king against the oppressions of 
Andros. It stands near the foot of this hill, just off Washington Avenue, 
which winds to the right and continues to Woodlawn Cemeteiy. 

Returning by a Washington Avenue car down Broadway and, if we 
choose, into Boston through the Charlestown District, we shall cross 
the Eastern Division of the Boston & Maine just beside the Chelsea 
station. Near by is Union Park, in which stands the Chelsea Soldiers' 
Monument. At Bellingham Square, where we turn into Broadway, we 
take a course directly southwest to the bridge over the Mystic into 
Charlestown. As we near the bridge we see on our right the extensive 
grounds occupied by the United States Naval Hospital and the Marine 
Hospital, the former for sick and disabled officers and men of the navy, 
the latter for invalids of the merchant marine. The grounds are sightly, 
sloping to the river and shaded by ancient trees. 

On the farther end of the tract, where the Island End River joins the 
Mystic River, is the site of Samuel Maverick's fortified house, built in 
1624-1625. Maverick described it as having "a Pillizado fflankers and 
gunnes both below and above in them which awed the Indians," and no 
wonder. It was here that Maverick entertained Governor Winthrop 
and his associate leaders on their first coming in 1630. Maverick 
afterward removed to Noddle's Island, now East Boston. 

SOMERVILLE, MEDFORD, AND MALDEN 

It is a pleasant trip to Medford by the way of Somerville, with much 
historic interest. Taking an elevated train to Sullivan Square, and there 
changing to a Highland Avenue, Somerville, car, a fifteen minutes' 
ride will bring us to Central Square, at the eastern end of Prospect 
Hill. This hill is historic as the site of the citadel, the most formidable 
works in the American lines during the Siege of Boston, and as the 
place where the Union flag with its thirteen stripes was first hoisted, 
January 1, 1776. These facts are related upon a tablet which stands on 
the present top of the hill, with the exception of one small point fifteen 
feet or so lower now than at that time. On its long summit General 
Putnam made his headquarters after the battle of Bunker Hill, and 
here also during the winter of 1 777-1 778 were quartered the British 
troops captured at Saratoga with Burgoyne. The point left uncut is 
now reserved in a park, and an observatory is to be built on its summit. 

Central Hill beyond, over which our car soon passes, is also associated 
with the Revolution. Its summit is an open, parklike space, at the 
easterly end of which is observed a miniature redoubt with cannon 
mounted. This is intended to mark the site of French's Redoubt 



144 TUFTS COLLEGE 

thrown up after the battle of Bunker Hill, which became a part of the 
besieging lines of Boston. 

In this highland common are grouped a series of public buildings, — 
the City Hall, the Public Library, the High School, and the English 
High School. 

On Winter Hill, northward, stood another Continental fort, and the 
chief one, connected with the Central Hill battery and the citadel on 
Prospect Hill by a line of earthworks. Near the foot of Central Hill, 
in a well-preserved old house marked by a tablet, are seen the head- 
quarters of General Charles Lee during the Siege. Over on Spring 
Hill, to the west, Lord Percy's artillery for a time covered the retreat 
of his tired infantry on that memorable 19th of April. On Willow 
Avenue near Davis Square, West Somerville, a tablet records a sharp 
fight at this point, and marks graves of British soldiers here. 

At Davis Square we leave the car and walk through Elm Street, 
which curves to the right, to the junction of College Avenue, Broadway, 
and Powderhouse Avenue. Here, in a little park, stands the picturesque 
as well as historic Old Powder House, a tower with conical top, thirty feet 
high and about twenty feet in diameter at the ground, with thick walls 
of brick, and barred doorway and window. 

It was first a mill, built about 1 703-1 704, and became a Province powder house 
in 1747. On September 1, 1774, General Gage seized the 250 half-barrels of gun- 
powder stored within it and thereby provoked the great assembly of the following 
day on Cambridge Common. In 1775 it became the magazine of the American 
army besieging Boston. 

To the northwest from this park it is but a few minutes' walk through 
College Avenue to the pleasant grounds of Tufts College, which covers 
nearly all of College Hill and commands a wide prospect of the surround- 
ing country. It is directly reached from Sullivan Square by electrics marked 
" Medford Hillside," and by steam railroad (Boston & Maine). We enter 
Professors Row, which follows the curve of the hill to the left, and pass 
the houses of the president and others of the faculty ; also Metcalf Hall, 
a dormitory for women students. To the right, on the crest of the hill, 
reached by a broad walk under lofty elms, stand the chief buildings of 
the college : Ballon //all, the oldest ; the noteworthy Goddard Chapel, of 
stone, with a hundred-foot campanile ; the Barnutn Museum of Natural 
History, built and endowed by the famous showman and containing among 
other things the skeleton of the great elephant Jumbo ; the Goddard 
Gymnasium; East and West Halls, dormitories; the Library and the 
two Divinity School buildings, Miner //all and Paige Hall. On the other 
side of College Avenue, near the entrance by which we came, are the 



WINCHESTER 145 

Commons building, the Chemical Building, and the Bromfield-Pearson 
School ; these last two being part of the technical school plant. 

From the college grounds it is a pleasant walk to Main Street, Medford, 
through College Avenue and Stearns Street. On Main Street, between 
George and Royall Streets, we come upon a most interesting relic of 
Provincial days. This is the Royall mansion house, built by Colonel 
Isaac Royall in 1738. An earlier house on its site, erected before 1690 
it is said, was utilized in its construction. A building at one side was 
originally the slave quarters, the only structure of its kind remaining in 
Massachusetts. In 1775 the mansion was the headquarters of Stark's 
division of the Continental army. It is now occupied by the Sarah 
Bradlee Fulton Chapter, D. A. R., and is open to visitors for a modest fee. 

Another relic of an earlier period cherished here is the Craddock 
house, said to date from 1634, and so entitled to the distinction of 
being the oldest existing house in the country. It stands some distance 
down the Mystic River side, on Riverside Avenue, toward East Medford. 
Opposite it, on the other side of the river (Winter Hill side), lay Gov- 
ernor Winthrop's Ten Hills Farm. 

Through Medford Square (reached direct from Sullivan Square by 
various lines) cars pass for Maiden, Melrose, and Everett in one direction, 
and for West Medford, Winchester, Woburn, and Lowell in another. 
Forest Street is a Medford entrance to the Middlesex Fells. Electric 
cars run through Middlesex Fells, starting from Sullivan Square. 

Across to Maiden is an agreeable ride. The route passes the Middle- 
sex Fells Parkway, a Maiden entrance to the southeasterly section of the 
Fells, the most romantic part of the Reservation. As it nears the finish 
the parkway widens into Fellsmere, a small park. In Maiden Center is 
the Public Library and Art Gallery, noteworthy as one of the best exam- 
ples of the work of the architect, H. H. Richardson, in public buildings. 

WINCHESTER 

Winchester, which touches the western side of the Fells, is one of the 
most picturesque towns of the metropolitan region. Its natural beauty 
in wooded hill and vale, river and lake (the Mystic ponds), is unusual, 
and this has been to a great extent worthily retained in the building up 
of the town. It is next to Brookline, perhaps, in richness of possessions 
and as a favored residential place for substantial business and profes- 
sional men of Boston. It has a few large country seats, some old-time 
family mansions, and a great variety of tasteful houses of modern build. 
It is connected with Medford and Arlington by electric lines, and so 
with Boston ; but the more direct connection is by railroad (Boston & 
Maine, North Station). 



146 PUBLIC PARKS 



III. PUBLIC PARKS 

BOSTON CITY SYSTEM 

Boston Common, 48^ acres. Central District. Bounded by Tremont, 
Park, Beacon, Charles, and Boylston streets. 

Public Garden, 24] acres. Edge of Back Bay District. Bounded by 
Charles, Beacon, Arlington, and Boylston streets. 

Riverbank. Along the Charles River Basin in the rear of Charles and 
Beacon streets to Charlesgate ; ultimately to extend to Cottage 
Farms ; its most attractive feature a broad esplanade. 

Commonwealth Avenue Parkway. Back Bay District, Commonwealth 
Avenue from Arlington Street to entrance of Back Bay Fens. 

Back Bay Fens, 115 acres. Back Bay District, from the Charles River 
to beginning of Riverway. Reached from Charlesgate. 

Riverway, 40 acres. Back Bay District and boundary between Boston 
and Brookline. Reached by Huntington Avenue car, alighting at 
Tremont entrance, near the Gardner Museum ; or by same car at 
Olmsted Park ; or by Ipswich Street and Brookline Avenue car, 
alighting at Audubon Road. 

Olmsted Park, 1S0 acres. Joins Riverway on the south. Formerly Lev- 
erett Park, 60 acres (the boundary line between Roxbury District and 
Brookline) ; Jamaicaway, mostly in Jamaica Plain, West Roxbury 
District; and Jamaica Park, 120 acres (Jamaicaway connects the 
two), in Jamaica Plain. These were combined under the new name 
in 1903,111 honor of Frederic Law Olmsted, the landscape architect. 
Jamaica Pond occupies most of the area of the old Jamaica Park 
part. On the western shore of this pond is the Francis Parkman 
Memorial, designed by Daniel C. French, and erected in 1906. 
The historian's summer home was long at this point. 

Arborway, 36 acres. Connecting Olmsted Park with the Arnold Arbore- 
tum, and the latter, in turn, with Franklin Park. 

Arnold Arboretum and Bussey Park, 223 acres. West Roxbury District, 
continuing the system southward from Olmsted Park. Fine trees 
and shrubs. The largest tree museum in the world, and a place of 
great natural attractions. Llere is established the Bussey Institute, 
the school of horticulture and agriculture of Harvard University, 
which owns and maintains the Arboretum. Reached most conven- 
iently by train on Providence Division, New York, New Haven & 
Hartford Railroad, to Forest Hills station ; or by electrics to Forest 



PUBLIC PARKS I47 

Hills, either via Jamaica Plain surface car (from Subway), or via 
elevated train to the Forest Hills terminal. 
West Roxbury Parkway, 150 acres. West Roxbury District, connect- 
ing the Arnold Arboretum with the Stony Brook Reservation of 
the Metropolitan Parks System. 
Franklin Park, 527 acres. Between Roxbury, West Roxbury, and 
Dorchester districts. Reached by various surface lines marked 
Franklin Park, and by elevated to the Dudley Street station and 
surface cars therefrom. The most direct way is by Columbia Road, 
to the main entrance which is opposite this thoroughfare. Has a 
Zoological Garden, including an open-air aviary, and bear dens. 
From the entrance wagonettes take parties of visitors around an 
extensive tour of the park for twenty-five cents each. 
Franklin Field, 77 acres. Dorchester District. Its nearest corner is 
separated from one corner of Franklin Park only by Blue Hill 
Avenue, cars traversing that avenue being the direct way to it. 
Chiefly used for baseball and other outdoor sports. 
Dorchester Park, 26 acres. Near Milton Lower Mills, Dorchester Dis- 
trict. A natural park, very rocky and thickly wooded. Directly 
reached by any Ashmont and Milton car. The pleasantest way is 
via Grove Hall transfer station, Washington Street, and Codman 
Hill, Dorchester. 
Dorchesterway, 6 acres. Dorchester District, connecting Franklin 

Park and the Strandway, via Columbia Road. 
Strandway, 260 acres. South Boston. Borders the shore of Old 

Harbor, extending to the Marine Park at City Point. 
Marine Park (including Castle Island), 161.44 acres. South Boston. 
Bathing beach with city bath house; long pier extending out into 
the harbor, with drawbridge connecting it with Castle Island (Fort 
Independence) and a breakwater opposite, forming a pleasure bay 
for small boats. Has an Aquarium. Reached by City Point cars. 
Governor's Island, 72 acres. 

Wood Island Park, 211 acres. Harbor side of East Boston, toward 
Governor's Island. Public bathing houses, gymnasiums, and out- 
door sports of various kinds. Attractive landscape architecture. 
Reached by train on Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad, every 
fifteen minutes, from Rowe's Wharf (elevated railway station 
opposite) to Wood Island station. 
Charlestown Heights, 10.40 acres. Charlestown District. Summit of 

Bunker Hill, overlooking the Mystic River. 
North End Beach and Copp's Hill Terrace, 7.30 acres. North End. 
Bathing beach and playground for children. Reached by Atlantic 



148 METROPOLITAN SYSTEM 

Avenue elevated train to Battery Street station, or by East Boston 
or Chelsea Ferry surface car to Atlantic Avenue (short walk). Just 
above the terraces is the historic Copp's 1 1 ill Burying Ground. 

Charlesbank, 10 acres. West End. Lies along the Charles River from 
Craigie Bridge to Cambridge Bridge. Open-air gymnasium and 
playgrounds. Attractively laid out and affording fine views of the 
lower Charles. Reached most conveniently by Cambridge car from 
Park Square via Charles Street, or from Bowdoin Square. 

Rogers Park, 69 acres. Brighton District. Reached by Newton car 
via Allston and Brighton, alighting at Lake Street (short walk). 

Chestnut Hill Park, 55.40 acres. Brighton District. Surrounding the 
Chestnut 1 1 ill Reservoir. Beautiful grounds, trees, and shrubs; 
fine driveway and footpath; woods and rocks. Reached by Newton 
Boulevard car to Lake Street transfer station; also by Reservoir 
cars to end of route (short walk). 

Besides the city parks mentioned above there are many small public 
pleasure grounds in various parts of the city; also a large number of 
playgrounds, provided with simple outdoor gymnastic apparatus and 
with ball grounds and tennis courts, which are fully improved during 
the open months. 

Riverbank, along the Charles River Basin, included in the above list, 
while intimately related to the Boston system, is in fact a part of the Met- 
ropolitan system and under the control of the state park commissioners. 



METROPOLITAN SYSTEM 

Nantasket Beach Reservation, 25.59 acres. Hull. Splendid bathing. 
Reached by Nantasket steamer from Rowe's Wharf (Atlantic 
Avenue Elevated station opposite), or by train on New York, 
New Haven & Hartford Railroad to Nantasket Junction; thence 
by Nantasket Branch (electric) to the beach. 

Quincy Shore, 38.02 acres. Quincy. Along the shore of Quincy Bay. 

Blue Hills Reservation, 4906.43 acres. Milton, Quincy, Braintree, Ran- 
dolph, and Canton. Includes the higher portion of the Blue Hill 
range. "Wild rocky heights; widespreading views in all directions. 
Reached by electrics to Canton, passing the foot of the Big Blue 
Hill. Also by train, New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad, to 
Milton station, and thence by electrics to the edge of the Reservation. 

Neponset River Banks, 921.95 acres. Boston, Dedham, Westwood 
Milton, and Canton. 



METROPOLITAN SYSTEM 



149 



Stony Brook Reservation, 463.72 acres. Boston. Densely wooded hills; 
Muddy Pond ; fine driveways. Reached by trolley car for Dedham 
from Forest Hills. 

Charles River Banks, 673.74 acres. Boston, Cambridge, Watertown, 
Waltham, Weston, Newton, and Wellesley. 

Beaver Brook and Waverley Oaks Reservation, 5S.33 acres. Belmont 
and Waltham. Contains the famous old oak trees and a pictur- 
esque brook (subject of Lowell's " Beaver Brook "), with ponds 
and waterfall. Reached by Waverley car from Subway or by train 
on Boston & Maine Railroad (Fitchburg or Central Massachusetts 
division) to Waverley station (short walk). 

Hemlock Gorge Reservation, 2 3.06 acres. Newton, Needham, and Welles- 
ley. The Charles Riv- 
er cuts its way here 
through a narrow, 
deep gorge shaded 
with fine old trees. 
Echo Bridge is across 
the river above the 
gorge, — a symmetri- 
cal piece of masonry, 
with a wonderful echo 
beneath it. Reached 
by car via Newton, 
or by Boston & 

Worcester (electric) car via Boylston Street, Brookline ; also by 
train (Newton Circuit, New York Central) to Newton Upper Falls. 

Middlesex Fells, 1S9S.09 acres. Maiden, Melrose, Stoneham, Medford, 
and Winchester. Beautifully diversified scenery, — hills, ponds, 
brooks, ledges, and forest ; splendid walks and drives. Reached 
by elevated train to Sullivan Square terminal, thence by surface 
car passing through the Middlesex Fells Parkway. Runs through 
the Reservation to Stoneham Square. 

Mystic River Banks, 290.68 acres. Somerville, Medford, and Arlington. 
Reached directly by electrics to Medford. 

Winthrop Shore Reservation, 16.83 acres. Winthrop. Extends along the 
ocean front for about a mile. A broad boulevard with sidewalks 
on both sides. Fine views of the ocean, Nahant, and the outer 
islands. Reached by train every fifteen minutes on Winthrop 
Branch, Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad, from Rowe's 
Wharf (Elevated railway station opposite) to Winthrop Beach, 
Shirley, or Ocean Spray stations. 




Nantasket Beach 



J 5° 



METROPOLITAN SYSTEM 



Revere Beach Reservation, 67.40 acres. Revere. A broad boulevard 
with walks extending along the ocean for about two miles. State 
bath house, band stand, refreshment houses, and a great variety of 
amusements. The beach superb and the bathing excellent. Reached 
by train every fifteen minutes on the main line of the Boston, Revere 
Beach & Lynn Railroad from Rowe's Wharf, or by trolley car from 
the Subway (Scollay Square, Adams Square, or Haymarket Square 

stations), via Charlestown, 
Chelsea, and Revere. 
King's Beach and Lynn Shore 
Reservation, 22.89 acres. 
Swampscott and Lynn. 
Along the ocean front of the 
northern part of Lynn and 
the southern shore of 
Swampscott. Reached by 
trains to Lynn and trolley 
cars for Swampscott through 
Ocean Street. 
Lynn Woods, Free Public Forest, 
2000 acres. Comprising 
woodland of great natural 
beauty, maintained by the 
Lynn Park Commission. 
The second largest munici- 
pal pleasure ground in the 
United States. Three main 
entrances: one to the Great 
Woods Road ; second, to 
Dungeon Rock, on Wal- 
nut Street — both these 
reached by electric cars 
properly marked, from the square in Lynn at the central railroad 
station ; the third or western entrance, from the old Reading road 
to Walden Pond — most convenient for carriages and bicycles from 
Boston and suburbs. 
Hart's Hill, 22.97 acres. Wakefield. Reached by trains on Boston & 
Maine Railroad (Western Division) to Wakefield, or by trolley car 
from Sullivan Square terminal of the elevated railway via Maiden 
and Melrose. 




Rustic Bridge and Waterfall, 
Middlesex Fells 



PARKWAYS 151 

Governor Hutchinson Field. Milton. Part of the estate of the royal gov- 
ernor in the years immediately preceding the Revolution. Fine 
view of the Neponset River and its meadows, Boston city and 
harbor, and Massachusetts Bay. Reached by train or trolley car to 
Milton Lower Mills, and walk of ten minutes through Adams 
Street. 

PARKWAYS 

Furnace Brook, 4.320 miles in length. Quincy. 
Blue Hills, 2.265 miles. Boston and Milton. 
Neponset River, 2.260 miles. Hyde Park and Milton. 
West Roxbury, 1.5 10 miles. Boston, West Roxbury District. 
Fresh Pond, .520 mile. Cambridge. 

Middlesex Fells, 5.105 miles. Maiden, Medford, Somerville. 
Mystic Valley, 2.900 miles. Medford, Winchester. 
Revere Beach, 5.240 miles. Revere, Chelsea, Everett, Medford. 
Lynnway, .690 mile. Revere, Lynn. 
Nahant Beach, 2.230 miles. Nahant. 
Lynn Fells, 1. 120 miles. Melrose, Stoneham. 
Winthrop, .420 miles. Revere. 

Alewife Brook, 3.187 miles. Cambridge, Somerville, Arlington, 
Belmont. 




t52 ARLINGTON 



IV. DAY TRIPS FROM BOSTON 

LEXINGTON AND CONCORD 

Lexington is reached from Boston by electric car via Arlington, or by 
train, Boston & Maine Railroad, North Station. Concord is also reached 
by both electric and steam cars. To include both places in a single trip 
there is a choice of routes : one wholly by electrics, another partly by 
trolley and partly by steam car (from Lexington to Concord), a third 
wholly by train. The route wholly by electrics is by an Arlington 
Heights car, passing from the Cambridge Subway along Massachusetts 
Avenue through Cambridge and Arlington, to the Lexington town line ; 
thence by a Boston and Lexington car, through East Lexington to 
Lexington Center, by the historic green ; thence to Concord by way 
of Bedford, finishing in the main square. To reach Concord directly 
from Boston the usual and by far the quickest way is to take the steam 
railroad. There are two routes, — one by the Fitchburg Division of the 
Boston & Maine, the other by the Southern Division, the latter being 
the line which comes through Lexington. 

The trolley-car route to Lexington passes numerous historic points in 
Arlington (the early Menotomy, later West Cambridge), all associated 
with the affair of the 19th of April, 1775. Before the town line is 
reached the visitor must needs be on the lookout for tablets. In North 
Cambridge (Cambridge station on the near-by railroad) is the first one. 
This stands just above the church, a little beyond the railroad bridge, 
left side. It marks a point where four Americans were killed by British 
soldiers on the retreat. Two miles and more beyond, after a brick car 
house is passed and the railroad crossed, the next tablet may be seen, 
on the right side of the road. This marks the site of the Black Horse 
Tavern, where three members of the Committee of Safety of 1775 — 
Colonel Azor Orne, Colonel Jeremiah Lee, and Elbridge Gerry of 
Marblehead — were spending the night of the iSth of April, and barely 
escaped capture by the British soldiers on the march out to Lexington 
and Concord. 

Nearing the town center, the Arlington House is marked, " Here 
stood Cooper's Tavern, in which Jabez Wyman and Jason "Winship were 
killed by the British, April 19, 1775." A little way beyond this house, 
at the right, is Mystic Street, down which, a hundred yards from the 
avenue, is a tablet inscribed with this marvelous tale : " Near this spot 
Samuel Whittemore, then eighty years old, killed three British soldiers 



EAST LEXINGTON 153 

April 19, 1775. He was shot, bayonetted, beaten, and left for dead, 
but recovered and lived to be ninety-eight years of age." At the junc- 
tion of the avenue and Pleasant Street, in front of the church green, a 
tablet records that "at this spot on April 19th, 1775, the old men of 
Menotomy captured a convoy of English soldiers with supplies, on its 
way to join the British at Lexington." Behind the church on Pleasant 
Street is the old burying ground where a number who fell in the fight 
during the British retreat were buried. Farther down Pleasant Street, 
on the borders of fair Spy Pond, is the home of John T. Trowbridge, 
author and poet. On the avenue again, above the church green, is the 
fine Robbins Memorial Library, and adjoining it, with the Memorial Town 
Garden between, in which is Dallin's "Menotomy" — a bronze figure of 
a kneeling Indian drinking at a spring — is the Robbins Memorial Town 
Hall, erected in 191 3, a gift of the late Winfield Robbins. Near the 
corner of Jason Street, another tablet appears, this identifying the " site 
of the house of Jason Russell, where he and eleven others were captured, 
disarmed, and killed by the retreating British." At the approach to 
Arlington Heights the "Foot of the Rocks" as called in the time of the 
Revolution, is reached. To the left a road leads up to " The Heights," 
from which a beautiful view is to be had. 

The car stables close to the Lexington line are only a little way beyond. 
Here the change is made to the Lexington car a few steps above. 

East Lexington, or the East Village as it used to be called, is now a 
tranquil hamlet, with an old-fashioned store or two, some comfortable- 
looking houses along the main avenue, a few memorials of the British 
invasion, and a little church in which Emerson occasionally preached 
(the octagonal structure on the right side of the avenue, known as the 
Follen Church, from Charles Follen, the German scholar, its minister, 
who was lost in the burning of the steamer Lexington on Long Island 
Sound in 1840). At the junction of the avenue and Pleasant Street is 
a tablet set up beside a drinking fount, which marks the point where 
the first armed man of the Revolution was taken, — only to rearm him- 
self and fight later on Lexington Green. He was Benjamin Wellington, 
a minuteman. A short distance beyond is a plain white house, on the 
right side, upon which is a tablet identifying it as the " home of Jonathan 
Harrington, the last survivor of the Battle of Lexington." This, how- 
ever, was not the place where Jonathan lived at the time of the fight. 
He was a boy then (a fifer to the minutemen) and lived with his father, 
another Jonathan Harrington, whose house also is standing, a little 
farther on, at the corner of Maple Street. In the sidewalk in front of 
the latter house is one of the largest elms in New England. One 
day in 1753 the elder Jonathan drove an ox team to Salem, and on 



J 54 



U.XIXGTON 



the way back he pulled up an elm shoot to brush the flies off the 
oxen. When he got home he set it out, and this great tree has grown 
from it. 

Lexington. After passing the rural station of Munroe's, on the rail- 
road, the first object of interest, and a worthy one, is Munroe's Tavern, 
standing on an elm-shaded knoll at the left of the avenue. On its face 
is a tablet thus inscribed: " Earl Percy's headquarters and hospital, 
April 19, 1775. The Munroe Tavern built 1695." Percy occupied the 
room on the left of the entrance door, and this was made the temporary 
hospital. The room on the right was the taproom, where the soldiers 
were freely supplied with liquor. 

When the retreat began some of the soldiers discharged their guns, killing John 
Raymond, who had served them and who was trying to escape through a back 

door. A bullet hole 
made by one of the Brit- 
ish musket balls is still 
seen in the ceiling of 
this room. The depart- 
ing soldiers also started 
a (ire in the tavern, but 
it was put out. In the 
southeast part of the 
second story was the 
tavern dining room, 
and here Washington 
dined in November, 
1789, when on his last 
journey through New 
England. This house 
was much larger then, 
with spreading outbuildings. Abandoned as a tavern years ago, it has been pre- 
served as a memorial of the Revolution. 

As the town center is approached historic sites multiply. The hill on 
the left is marked as the point where one of the British fieldpieces was 
planted to command the village and its approaches. Near it, we are 
informed by the same tablet, " several buildings were burned." A little 
way beyond Bloomfield Street, at the left, is about the point where 
Percy met Smith's retreating force, and at the right, in front of the 
High School, a granite cannon marks the spot where he planted a field- 
piece to cover the retreat. 

Arrived at Lexington Green, — the Common where the "battle" 
occurred, — the visitor will find every point of importance designated 
by a monument or tablet. Thus at the lower end is the stone pulpit 
marking the site of the first three meetinghouses, a " spot identified 




Lexington 



LEXINGTON 155 

with the town's history for one hundred and fifty years." Near by is a 
bronze statue of a yeoman with gun in hand standing on a heap of 
rocks. Where the minutemen were lined up is indicated by a bowlder 
inscribed with the words of Captain Parker : " Stand your ground. Don't 
fire unless fired upon, but if they mean to have a war, let it begin here." 
On the west side of the ground is the old stone monument, now in a 
beautiful mantle of ivy, which the State erected in 1799, an< ^ f° r which 
the patriot minister of Lexington, Jonas Clarke, wrote the oratorical 
inscription. In a stone vault back of it are deposited the remains of 
those who fell in the engagement, which were removed to this place 
from their common grave in the village burying ground. With the 
modern houses about the green are three which were standing at the 
time of the battle. On the north side is a house in an old garden 
which was the Buckmati Tavern, " a rendezvous of the minutemen, a 
mark for British bullets," as the tablet on its face states. On the 
south side a plain white house bears the legend, " A witness of the 
battle." On the west side, at the corner of Bedford Street, is a 
house in which lived Jonathan Harrington, who, "wounded on the 
Common " in the engagement, " dragged himself to the door and died 
at his wife's feet." A few steps from the Unitarian Church, on this 
side, is a lane with a bowlder at its comer marked " Ye Old Burying- 
Ground 1690." Among the many quaintly inscribed gravestones here 
are the tombs of the ministers John Hancock, grandfather of Gov- 
ernor John Hancock, and Jonas Clarke, and monuments to Captain 
Parker of the minutemen and Governor William Eustis, who was 
a student with General Joseph Warren and served as a surgeon at 
Bunker Hill and through the war. He was governor of the State 
in 1823-1825. 

On Hancock Street is the historic Hancock-Clarke house (moved 
from its original site on the opposite side of the way), the home of the 
ministers, first Hancock and then Clarke. Here John Hancock and 
Samuel Adams were stopping the night before the battle, and were 
roused at midnight from their sleep by Paul Revere, when they were 
taken by their guard to Captain James Reed's in Burlington. The 
venerable house is now a museum of Revolutionary relics. In the 
Town Hall, below the green, are the Memorial Hall and Carey Public 
Library, in which is a larger museum of relics, with numerous portraits, 
old prints, and Major Pitcairn's pistols, captured during the retreat. 
Here are statues of The Minuteman of '75; The Union Soldier; John 
Hancock, by Thomas R. Gould ; and Samuel Adams, by Martin 
Milmore. In the public hall above is a fine painting of the Battle of 
Lexington by Henry Sandham. 



i56 



CONCORD 




Concord 



Waltham Street, opening directly opposite the Town Hall, leads 
toward the birthplace of Theodore Parker, in Spring Street, about two 

miles distant. 

/ / —Am.fl Br. \\ „a. 

BATTLE GROUND 



Concord. The heart 
of the town is the 
square in the center, 
where the most con- 
spicuous object is 
the 

Unitarian Church, 
destroyed by fire in 
1900, and wisely re- 
built on the old simple 
and dignified lines. 
This was the site of 
a still older meeting- 
house where the Pro- 
vincial Congress sat. 
Next to it is the 

Wright Tavern, 
dating from 1 747. 

Here Major Pitcaim drank his toddy on the day of the fight. 
Taking the Lexington road from the square we pass, first, the 
Concord Antiquarian Society 's house, full of relics and old furniture, 

and, a little farther, on a road diverging to the right, 

The Emerson house, where Ralph Waldo Emerson lived the greater 

part of his life and where he died. His study is preserved as he left 

it. The house was long 

after occupied by his 

daughter, Miss Ellen 

Emerson. Returning to 

Lexington Street and pro- 
ceeding about a quarter 

of a mile, we come to 
The School of Philosophy 

and Alcott house. The 

unpainted, chapel-like 

building was the home of 

the school, and the house Ti,E Alcott House 

near it was the " Orchard House," in which the Alcott family lived for 

twenty years. Here Louisa M. Alcott wrote " Little Women," which 

turned the tide in the family's fortunes. Just beyond, under the hill, is 




CONCORD 



157 



The Wayside, also occupied at one time by the Alcotts, but better 
known as the home of Hawthorne after the return from Europe. Here 
the family were living at the time of Hawthorne's sudden death in New 
Hampshire. " Hawthorne's Walk " is on the crest of the ridge that 
rises abruptly behind the house. Returning to the square, we ascend, 
on the right, the old 

Hillside Burying Ground. Here are historic graves, including those 
of Emerson's grandfather and Major John Buttrick, who led the fight 
at the Old North Bridge ; and some unique epitaphs, especially that of 
John Jack, the slave. The church 
near this burying ground is now a 
Catholic church, and turning the 
corner of the street on which it 
stands, we soon come to 

Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. Here, 
on a high ridge beyond the beauti- 
ful hollow which gives the ceme- 
tery its name, are, in proximity, the 
graves of Hawthorne, of Emerson, 
of Thoreau, of Louisa M. Alcott 
and her father. Near the foot of 
this slope should not be over- 
looked the Hoar family lot and 
the beautiful epitaphs placed by 
the late Judge Hoar upon the 
monuments to his father, Samuel 
Hoar, and to his brother, Edward 
Hoar. The exquisitely appropri- 
ate inscription on the Soldiers' 
Monument in the square was also 
written by Judge Hoar. Return- 
ing once more to the square, and proceeding thence on Monument 
Street for about half or three quarters of a mile, 

The Old Manse, where Emerson wrote " Nature," and Hawthorne 
lived for a time, is seen on the left, standing back from the road. 
The study of both Emerson and Hawthorne was a small room at the 
back of the second floor. This house was built ten years before the 
battle at the bridge close by, and was for many generations the home of 
the minister of the village. Nearly opposite is the house of the late 
Judge Keyes, dating from before the Revolution, and in the ell of which 
may still be seen the hole through which passed a musket ball fired at 
some patriot who was standing in the doorway at the time of the fight. 




Battle Monument 



158 CONCORD 

The Battle Ground. The wooded lane just beyond the Old Manse 
leads to the scene of the battle at the Old North Bridge, the story of 
which is told by the inscriptions on the monuments there. Most 
pathetic is the simple inscription which marks the graves of unknown 
British soldiers killed on the spot. French's bronze Minuteman fitly 
stands on the opposite side of the river, at about the point where the 
Americans made their attack. 

House of the First Minister. If on our way back we turn to the right 
after crossing the railroad tracks, and then to the left, we shall pass the 
site of the house in which Peter Bulkeley, the first Concord minister, 
lived, — he who made the bargain with the Indians for the land of Con- 
cord, which secured to the colonists its " peaceful possession." This 
is on Lowell Street, and a few steps farther and facing the square, 
our starting point, is a low wooden block, a part of which was one of 
the storehouses sacked by the British. 

Continuing through the square and turning to the right, the first 
house beyond the very pretty bank building is one a part of which is 
said to have been the original blockhouse built by the first settlers as 
a defense against the Indians. Beyond, on the left, at the junction 
of the two roads, is the 

Concord Public Library. Here are some interesting busts and pictures, 
and a collection — astonishingly large — of books written by residents 
of Concord. 

Homes of the Hoar Family. Continuing on the main street, the fourth 
house from the blockhouse was the home of Samuel Hoar, the first 
of the name. Here w r ere born his eminent sons, the late Judge Hoar 
and Senator Hoar. The next house was the home of the late Samuel 
Hoar, the eldest son of Judge Hoar; and the next beyond that is the 
home of the widow of Sherman Hoar, Judge Hoar's youngest son. On 
the left, near the corner of Thoreau Street and secluded by a hedge of 
trees, is the 

Thoreau House. Here Thoreau lived during the last twelve years of 
his life, and here he died of consumption. The Alcott family also 
lived in this house for several years. The site of Thoreau's hut by 
Walden Pond is marked by a cairn made by visitors. Still continuing 
on the main street and bearing to the right, we find, just beyond the 
little stone Episcopal church which stands on the left, 

The Home of Frank B. Sanborn. Here, in w T hat is perhaps the pret- 
tiest house in Concord, and close to the river, lives Frank Sanborn, 
the last of the men who gave Concord a world-wide reputation, and 
famous as an antislavery man, as schoolmaster, lecturer, and author. 
A mile or more beyond the Sanborn house is 



NORTH SHORE 159 

The Concord Reformatory. This institution, intended for younger and 
the less hardened criminals, is a large one, and is believed to be a model 
of its kind. 

Concord Schools. Concord has always been remarkable for its schools ; 
and besides its public schools it contains an Episcopal boarding school, 
with grounds sloping to the river, not far from the Sanborn house, and 
also a Unitarian boarding school, situated on the road to Lowell, about 
three miles beyond the village. 

Home of Edward W. Emerson. On the same road, a mile or so beyond 
the village, is the home of Emerson's only son, Dr. Edward W. Emer- 
son, a physician and artist, and the author of that most valuable and 
interesting book, " Emerson in Concord." 

THE NORTH SHORE 

Lynn (about 12 miles distant from Boston) can be reached in twenty 
minutes by steam railroad (Boston & Maine, Eastern Division, from 
the North Station) or by the Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad, a 
longer route but running closer to the sea, which begins with a short 
trip in a ferryboat, taken at Rowe's Wharf, Atlantic Avenue (a station 
of the elevated railway close by). If time can be spared, one may 
journey pleasantly to Lynn in Boston and Northern electric cars, taken 
in the Subway at the Scollay Square station, and running through the 
Charlestown District (past the Navy Yard), Chelsea, Revere, and thence 
straight across the broad Saugus marshes with their numerous inlets, 
and with the ocean in sight on the extreme right. We reach first 

West Lynn. The works of the General Electric Company and 
numerous shoe factories are here. A mile or so beyond is 

Lynn proper, a great shoe city. At Central Square electric cars may 
be taken for trips in various directions, especially to the Lynn Woods, 
the beautiful reservation of about two thousand acres. From Central 
Square, also, " barges " (a kind of long-drawn bus) run to the aristo- 
cratic summer resort of 

Nahant (" cold roast Boston "), the oldest of eastern summer resorts, 
occupying a rocky promontory. On the extreme point is the summer 
home of Henry Cabot Lodge. There is also good sea bathing here, 
cold as ice water. To the northeast is Egg Rock with its lighthouse, 
showing a fixed red light. Returning to Lynn, an electric may be taken, 
if one desires, to 

Saugus. Here are the Boardman houses, so called, the homes of 
minutemen in 1776, and "Appleton's pulpit," a huge rock, from which 
in September, 1687, Major Samuel Appleton of Ipswich harangued 



i6o 



MARBLEHEAD AND SALEM 



the people in favor of resistance to Andros. Here also is the site of 
the first iron mine and foundry in the Colony. 

Returning again to Lynn, we may take an electric car for Salem via 
Swampscott and Marblehead, - — a pleasant route passing many summer 
homes and traversing the Lynn Shore Reservation of the Metropolitan 
Parks System, which at its northern end joins King's Beach in Swamp- 
scott. Passing Beach Bluff and Clifton Heights, we come to 

Marblehead, the quaint, irregular town with crooked streets full of 
old-time suggestions. Barges or a steam ferry may be taken here to 
Marblehead Neck, the site of a summer hotel and of the clubhouses 
of the Eastern and Corinthian Yacht Clubs. At the north end of the 
town is Fort Sewall, and various islands are in sight, notably " Misery " 
island, which is devoted by a club to sports and merriment. Features 
within easy walks are the old Town Hall with memories of the Revolu- 
tion ; the birthplace of Elbridge Gerry ; remnant of the historic Jere- 
miah Lee mansion ; the home and the tomb of General John Glover, 
whose statue is in Boston (see page 78) ; St. Michael's, the oldest Epis- 
copal church now standing in New England ; the " Old Floyd Ireson " 
house ; birthplace of " Moll Pitcher," the " fortune teller of Lynn " ; 
and the well of the " Fountain Inn," the old tavern where began the 
romance of Agnes Surriage. From Marblehead we may go by electric 
car or by steam railroad — or one might have gone directly from Bos- 
ton by the Boston & Maine (North Station) — to 




Salem 

Salem, once the chief port of New England. Here are many stately, 
reposeful old houses : the Custom House, in which Hawthorne was 
employed ; the County Jail and Court House, in which many relics of 
the witchcraft persecution are preserved ; Gallows Hill, where the 
condemned were hung; the Roger Williams house; the house on 



TOWNS NEAR SALEM 161 

Federal Street in which Lafayette was entertained in 1784 and 
Washington in 17S9; Hawthorne's birthplace on Union Street, and 
various Hawthorne homes and landmarks ; and the Pickering mansion, 
built in 1649. Here also are the Essex Institute and the Peabody 
Academy of Science, with their interesting collections of documents, 
relics, and curiosities, many of them redolent of the sea and foreign 
commerce. 

Near-by towns are 

Peabody, named for George Peabody, the London-American banker, 
with the Peabody Institute, containing, besides many relics, a portrait 
of Queen Victoria, given by her to Mr. Peabody ; and 

Danvers, the home of General Israel Putnam, and at one time of 
Whittier. Here stands the fine old Hooper or Collins house, one of 
the best of Provincial mansions remaining, which General Gage used 
as his headquarters in the summer of 1774; and not far away is the 
Colonial farmhouse once occupied by Rebecca Nourse, the good house- 
wife and kind neighbor who was executed for witchcraft. 

From Salem electric cars run through Beverly to the tip end of Cape 
Ann ; but from Beverly they take an inland course through the towns 
of Wenham, Hamilton, Essex, and West Gloucester, whereas the 
Gloucester branch of the steam railroad diverges to the east at Beverly 
and runs along the coast. 

Beverly, settled in 1628, is now a shoe town in one part and a summer 
resort in the other parts. There are many wooded walks and drives 
here, and through Pride's Crossing, Beverly Farms, West Manchester, 
and Manchester-by-the-Sea, noted for its " singing beach," which gives 
forth a musical note as one walks over it. Here also is the Masconomo 
House, a famous summer hotel and the scene of open-air drama. 
Beyond are Magnolia and 

Gloucester, the port from which the hardy fishermen sail to "The 
Banks " for cod and haddock, and to which many of them never return. 
Kipling's " Captains Courageous " is the best guide book for Gloucester. 
At the extreme tip of Cape Ann is 

Rockport, famous for its granite quarries, for its breakwater, built by 
the Federal government, and for its rocky scenery, much haunted by 
artists. The Isles of Shoals lie off the shore, and also Thatcher's Island, 
with its twin lights. 

Salem Itinerary. A day might well be devoted to Salem alone. The 
following itinerary, arranged for the visitor who has only an hour or two 
for its exploration, embraces the more important or most interesting 
places and sites. 



162 SALEM 

The start is made from Town House Square (Washington Street at 
the crossing of Essex Street), a little way above the railroad station. 
On Washington Street, between the station and the square, on the west 
side of the railroad tunnel, is seen the 

Joshua Ward House (No. 148), in which Washington passed a night 
when in Salem on his tour of New England in the autumn of 1789. 
He occupied the northeast chamber of the second story. This house 
is on the site of the dwelling of the high sheriff, George Corwin, the 
executioner of the witchcraft victims in 1692. 

From Town House Square turn into Essex Street east. The Unita- 
rian Church on the southeast corner occupies the site of the 

First Meetinghouse, built prior to 1635 for the first church in Salem, 
formed in 1629. The present is the fourth in succession on this spot. 
The second one was the place of the examinations of the unhappy 
accused " witches " before the deputy governor and councilors from 
Boston in April, 1692. Beside the third one, "three rods west" of it, 
facing Essex Street, stood the 

Town House in which in 1774 met the last General Assembly of the 
Province of Massachusetts Bay and the first Provincial Congress. A 
short distance up Essex Street, at No. 10 1, is the 

Peabody Academy of Science (founded upon an endowment by George 
Peabody, the American banker in London), in the East India Marine 
Building. This contains the natural history and ethnological collec- 
tions of the Essex Institute, and the nautical museum of the East 
India Marine Society (dating from 1799), with large additions, so 
arranged as to be educational rather than merely entertaining. On the 
opposite side of the street, at No. 134, is 

Piummer Hall, the house of the Salem Athenaum (proprietary library, 
24,000 volumes). This occupies the site of the house in which William 
H. Prescott, the historian, was born, and in which earlier lived Nathan 
Read, who invented and successfully sailed a paddle-wheel steamboat in 
1 789, some years before Fulton. In Colony days the Downing-Bradstreet 
house was here (the homestead lot being covered by this building and 
its neighbor, the Cadet Armory)^ first the home of the Puritan Emanuel 
Downing, whose son George Downing gave his name to Downing Street 
in London, and afterward that of Simon Bradstreet, the last colonial 
governor. Next above Piummer Hall is the 

Essex Institute (No. 132), which comprises the Institute museum of 
historical objects, manuscripts, documents, and portraits, many and rare, 
the largest and most notable collection of its kind in the country; and 
the library, containing about 85,000 volumes, 302,000 pamphlets, and 
700 volumes of manuscript. The visitor upon entering the Institute 



SALEM 



16 




Birthplace of Hawthorne 



should procure a copy of its guide, which gives the details of the inter- 
esting exhibit here. 

From Essex Street on the south side, just above these institutions, 
turn into Union Street, which leads to the 

Birthplace of Hawthorne, in the ancient gambrel-roofed house, No. 27. 
This house dates from before 1692, and belonged to Hawthorne's 
grandfather, Daniel Hathorne (the romancer changed the spelling of 
the name) after 1772. Hawthorne was 
born (1804) in the northwest chamber. 
Back of this house, facing on Herbert 
Street, is the 

Herbert Street Hawthorne House (now 
a tenement house, Nos. \o l /z and 12), 
formerly owned by Hawthorne's mater- 
nal grandfather, Manning, in which 
much of the author's boyhood was 
passed, and where he afterward lived 
and wrote at intervals during his man- 
hood. His " lonely chamber " was the 
northwest room of the third story. 

From Derby Street, which Union 
Street crosses, pass to Charter Street northward, in which is the 

Charter Street Burying Ground, " Old Burying Point," dating from 
1637, fancifully sketched by Hawthorne. Here are graves or tombs of 
Governor Simon Bradstreet ; the witchcraft judge Hathorne and other 
ancestors of Hawthorne; the two chief justices Benjamin Lynde, 
father and son ; Nathaniel Mather, younger brother of Cotton Mather 
of Boston, precociously learned and pious, w r ho died " an aged man at 
nineteen years " ; Richard More, a boy passenger on the Mayflower ; 
and " Dr. John Swinnerton, physician," whose name Hawthorne util- 
ized in two of his romances. Adjoining the burying ground is the 

"Dr. Grimshawe" House (53 Charter Street) of " Dr. Grimshawe's 
Secret" and "The Dolliver Romance,"— the home of Dr. Nathaniel 
Peabody at the time of Hawthorne's courtship of Sophia Amelia 
Peabody, who became his wife. 

On Derby Street, a short distance eastward, is the 
Salem Custom House. The office which Hawthorne occupied as sur- 
veyor of the port in 1 846-1 849 was the corner room of the first floor, 
at the left of the entrance. The stencil, " N. Hawthorne," with which 
he marked inspected goods, is preserved here as a memento ; the desk 
upon which he wrote is in the Essex Institute. The room in which he 
fancied the discovery of the scarlet letter is on the second floor of the 



164 



SALEM 



easterly side of the building, in the rear of the collector's office. In 
Hawthorne's time this was an unused room, with boxes and barrels of 
old papers. 

Three or four streets east of the Custom House is Turner Street, by 
which return should be made to Essex Street. On Turner Street the 
old house No. 54 is marked the 

House of the Seven Gables. This is not correct, for Hawthorne, upon 
his own statement, took no particular house for his model in the romance 
of this name. The house is interesting, however, as one which Haw- 
thorne much frequented, it then being the home of the Ingersoll family, 

his relatives. It may 
j have suggested the title of 

the romance. Here the 
"Tales of Grandfather's 
Chair" originated. 

From Turner Street cross 
Essex Street to Washington 
Square, with its stately old 
houses, bordering the Com- 
mon, and Kitson's Statue of 
Roger Conan t, placed in 191 3. 
On the north side, at the cor- 
ner of Winter Street, is the 
Story House, in which lived 

Judge Joseph Story, and 
Salem Custom House . . . inr-iv ii T 

where his son, William W. 

The + marks the office occupied by Hawthorne g^ ^ pQet ^^ scu lp t or, 

was born. On Mall Street, the second street from this side, the house 
No. 14 was 

Hawthorne's Mall Street House, where " The Scarlet Letter " was 
written. The study here was the front room in the third story. 

From the west side of the square take Brown Street to St. Peter's 
Street, thence pass to Federal Street, and so to Washington Street 
again by Town House Square. On Howard Street, north from Brown 
Street, is the Prescott Schoolhouse, said to be near the site of the place 
where Giles Corey, the last victim of the witchcraft frenzy, was pressed 
to death. On Federal Street is the site of the 

Witchcraft Jail of 1692, covered by the house (No. 2) of the historical 
scholar, Abner C. Goodell. In this jail the persons accused of witch- 
craft were confined, and from it the condemned were taken to the place 
of execution. Some of the timbers of the old jail are in the present 
house. 




SALEM 165 

On Washington Street, just about where Federal Street enters, is the 
site of 

Governor Endicotfs "faire house." At the southern comer of Wash- 
ington and Church streets stood the 

Bishop House, where in 1692 lived Edward and Bridget Bishop, the 
latter the first witchcraft victim to be hanged. About opposite, on the 
west side of Washington Street, near Lynde Street, was the 

House of Nicholas Noyes, minister of the first church at the time of 
the witchcraft delusion, and a firm believer in witchcraft. In the middle 
of the street here stood the 

Court House of i6g2, where the witchcraft trials were held. In the 
present Court House, at the end of Washington Street, facing Federal 
Street, are 

Witchcraft Documents and Relics, in the custody of the clerk of the 
courts. Among these are the manuscript records of the testimony 
taken at the trials, the death warrant of Bridget Bishop, with Sheriff 
Corwin's return thereon, recording that he had " caused her to be hanged 
by the neck till she was dead and buried," the last words being crossed 
with a pen, apparently by the careful sheriff on second thought ; and 
some of the " witch-pins " which were produced in court as among the 
instruments of torture used by the accused. Through Federal Street 
west and North Street north is reached the 

North Bridge, in place of the bridge of Revolutionary days, where the 
"first armed resistance to the royal authority was made" on a Sunday 
in February, 1775, nearly two months before the affair at Lexington and 
Concord, when the advance of the British force, led by Lieutenant 
Colonel Leslie, to seize munitions of war, was arrested by the people 
of Salem. A spirited painting, " The Repulse of Leslie," is in the Essex 
Institute. 

Return through North Street to Essex Street west. On the comer 
of North Street (310 Essex Street) is the 

Witch House, so called persistently without warrant beyond the tra- 
dition that some of the preliminary examinations of accused pei'sons 
were held here, it being at the time of the delusion the dwelling of 
Judge Jonathan Corwin of the court. It is said to have been earlier 
the home of Roger Williams (in 1635-1636). It is the oldest house 
now standing in Salem. 

Through Summer Street from Essex pass to Chestnut Street, lined 
with great elms and bordered by many fine old-time mansions. At 
No. 18 was 

Hawthorne 's Chestnut Street House, which he occupied less than two 
years at the beginning of the surveyorship period. Little literary work 



i66 



SALEM 



appears to have been done here. At an earlier period John Pickering, 
the Greek lexicographer, lived in this house. On Broad Street, the 
next street south, at No. 18, is the many-gabled 

Pickering House, dating back to 1660, the birthplace of Timothy 
Pickering, the distinguished soldier and statesman of the Revolution 
and member of Washington's cabinet. Opposite, at the head of Broad 
Street, is a succession of school buildings, — 

The Latin and High Schools, the former of which is one of the oldest 
in the country. Behind these buildings is the 

Broad Street Burying Ground, second in age to the Charter Street 
Burying Ground, having been laid out in 1655. Here are the tombs 

of the Pickerings, of Corwin, the witch- 
craft sheriff, and of General Frederick 
W. Lander. 

Return to Essex Street, and after a 
call at the Public Library (No. 370), on 
the corner of Monroe Street, and a 
glance at the fine old-time mansions of 
the neighborhood, — notably the Cabot 

B house, dating from 174S, for a third 

finr. ; 'i of a century the home of William C 

Mill! 1*1 s i ffBHl Endicott, justice of the State Supreme 

^tjr J^yWR* ^"f JBpHW Court and member of President Cleve- 
land's cabinet, — take a car for 
' >•* Gallows Hill, where the nineteen 

~ victims of witchcraft were hanged. It 

Chestnut Street, Salem . 

is on Boston Street (the old Boston 

Road), approached from Hanson Street, where the conductor should 

be signaled to stop. 

Returned to Town House Square, the visitor may, if he have time, 

spend a few minutes profitably in the City Hall in looking over the 

unusual collection of portraits here. They include a Washington 

painted by Jane Stuart, a copy of a half-length portrait by her father, 

Gilbert Stuart ; a portrait of President Andrew Jackson by Major R. 

E. W. Earle of his military family in 1833; and portraits of Endicott. 

South of the railroad station is a nest of old buildings in old streets, 

among them the Ruck house, 8 Mill Street, dating from before 1651, 

interesting as the sometime home of Richard Cranch, where John 

Adams frequently visited (Adams and Cranch married sisters), and 

at a later time occupied by John Singleton Copley, the Boston painter, 

when here painting the portraits of Salem worthies. 




THE SOUTH SHORE 167 



THE SOUTH SHORE 

The pleasant places along the South Shore between Quincy and 
Plymouth are brought into connection with Boston and with each other 
by electric-car systems, while the steam railroad traverses the country 
closest to the shore. The most direct electric-car route from Boston 
to Plymouth is through Quincy, Braintree, South Braintree, Holbrook, 
Brockton, Whitman, Hanson, Pembroke, the Plymouth Woods, West 
Duxbury, and Kingston. For this route the Neponset car should be 
taken at the Dudley Street station of the Elevated. The trunk line 
continues through Quincy to Brockton, where change is made to the 
Plymouth line. Other lines between Quincy and Brockton pass through 
Quincy Point, across Weymouth Fore River, through Weymouth, cross- 
ing Weymouth Back River, Hingham, the Old Colony Woods, Nan- 
tasket, Hingham Center, Rockland, and Whitman, making connection 
at the latter place with the Plymouth line. 

The pleasantest steam-railroad journey is by the South Shore route 
(New York, New Haven & Hartford system, South Station), passing 
through Quincy, Braintree, Weymouth, Hingham, Cohasset, Scituate, 
Marshfield, Duxbury, and Kingston, to Plymouth. The more direct 
route is by the main line through Braintree, South Weymouth, Abington, 
Whitman, Hanson, Halifax, and Kingston. 

Hingham is one of the loveliest as well as one of the oldest towns in 
Massachusetts (settled in 1633). Its broad main street is shaded by 
magnificent elms. Its Old Ship Church, with pyramidal roof and bel- 
fry, dating from 1 681, is the oldest existing meetinghouse in the country, 
and the quaintest. The Tower and Chime of Bells here is a unique me- 
morial to the ancient settlers of the town. In the old burying ground 
near by, where are the tombs of Hingham worthies, is the grave of John 
A. Andrew, the war governor, marked with a statue by Gould. Com- 
fortable mansions of old type abound in the town. 

Cohasset, with irregular rocky coast, commanding a wide extent of 
ocean prospect, is the most favored place of the upper South Shore for 
summer seats. On and about its quite renowned Jerusalem Road are 
numerous extensive estates with elaborate houses and grounds. The 
Jerusalem Road to an unusual degree blends the charms of sea and 
shore. 

Scituate also enjoys a beautiful ocean front, with fair beaches and a 
pretty harbor, protected by rocky cliffs. This town is the scene 0/" Sam- 
uel Woodworth's lyric, " The Old Oaken Bucket." The old farm where 
the poet was born, which he immortalized in his song, was close by the 
present railroad station. 



168 MARSHFIELD AND DUXBURY 

Marshfield was the country home of Daniel Webster. The Webster 
place is some distance from the railroad, eastward. The ride or walk 
to it is along a country hillside road, from which beautiful views occa- 
sionally disclose themselves. The place originally included a part of 
" Careswell," the domain of the Plymouth Colony governor, Edward 
Winslow. Half a mile back from it is the tomb of Webster, on Burying 
Hill, a tranquil spot among fields and pastures overlooking the sea. 
Before the tomb, of rough-hewn granite, a plain marble slab displays 
the epitaph which Webster dictated the day before his death (1852). 
In this inclosure are monuments to early Pilgrim settlers. 

Duxbury, the home of Elder Brewster, Miles Standish, and John and 
Priscilla Alden, is marked by the Standish Monument on Captain's Hill, 
which looms up in the landscape, visible in a wide extent of country 
round about. Here is still standing the Standish Cottage, containing, it 
is believed, some of the materials of Standish's own house, on the slope 
of Captain's Hill ; and in another part of the town is the ancient Alden 
homestead, on the original Alden farm, which can be seen from the 
windows of the railroad car. In about the middle of the village, in the 
oldest of its burying grounds, the supposed grave 0/ Standish is marked 
by a monument, — a miniature fortress. Here are also graves of the 
Alden family, and possibly the grave of Elder Brewster. 

Kingston, part of Plymouth till 1726, when setting up for itself it 
took its name of King's town in honor of George the Second, on his 
birthday, is a typical Old Colony town, with a cheerful air of substan- 
tiality. It has a number of interesting landmarks, the most notable 
being the Major John Bradford house. Major John was the last of 
the Bradford family to possess the Bradford manuscript, now returned 
from its adventures and safely housed in the State House at Boston 
(see p. 43). 

Plymouth is entered by either the railroad or the trolley line, close to 
its historic points. A walk not fatiguing from its length will embrace 
them all. If arrival is made by trolley car, the National Monument is 
passed at the entrance to the town. It is but a short distance from 
the railroad station, and if the visitor comes by train it might well be 
visited first, although it is in the opposite direction from the other 
Pilgrim sites. The way is through Old Colony Park, a short tree-lined 
walk from the rear of the station to Court Street, thence, to the right, 
to Cushman Street and to Allerton Street. The great granite pile, 
surmounted by the colossal figure of Faith, and with groups of sitting 
figures, is seen placed to advantage in a broad open space on the crown 
of a hill. It was designed by Hammatt Billings, and finally completed 
nearly thirty years after the comer stone was laid. 



PLYMOUTH 



169 



PLYMOUTH 



H A R B OR 



oc* 



Returning to Court Street and approaching the town center, Pilgrim 
Hall is reached, a little way beyond the head of Old Colony Park. In 
the front yard is a stone tablet inscribed with the words of the compact 
signed in the cabin of the Mayflower. The collection in the halls of 
the building, comprising Pilgrim antiquities, paintings, prints, and other 
historical objects, is of great extent and value. Most interesting to 
many visitors is the 
Standish case, in 
which is the 
doughty cap- 
tain's sword, 
said to be of 
early Persian 
make. 

Above Pil- 
grim Hall is 
the County C 
House, on the c 

site side of the street, back 
from a green park, in which are 
precious documents of Pilgrim 
days. These are preserved in 
the office of the registry of 
deeds, and include papers bear- 
ing the signatures of Bradford 
and Standish, orders in Brad- 
ford's handwriting, Standish's 
will, the plan of the first allot- 
ment of lands, the plotting of 
the first street (the present 
Leyden Street), and the original patent of 1629 granted to Bradford 
and his associates. 

North Street, just above the Court House, to the right from Court 
Street, leads to Plymouth Rock, under the high granite canopy also 
designed by Billings. The side gates in the iron railing are open dur- 
ing the daytime so that visitors may step upon the stone. Close by is 
Pilgrim Wharf. 

Cole's Hill, where the first houses of the colonists were set up, and 
where their first burials were made in unmarked graves, rises from the 
opposite side of Water Street, reduced and rounded now from a ragged 
elevation to a symmetrical green mound. On the brow is a small park 
overlooking the harbor. Here at the head of Middle Street, which 




Plymouth 



170 PLYMOUTH 

opens from Carver Street, a tablet marks the spot where the skeletons 
of two of the forty-four Pilgrims, nearly half the number, who died dur- 
ing the first hard winter, were found a century and a half after. These 
remains, with parts of five other skeletons, are entombed in the chamber 
of the canopy over the rock. 

Leyden Street, next beyond Middle Street, the first and chief Pilgrim 
street, leads up to Burial Hill. Beyond its start at Carver Street the 
site of the first, or " common," house is seen, marked conspicuously, on 
the left side. 

Burial Hill rises abruptly from elm-shaded Town Square, a block 
from Main Street, practically a continuation of Court Street. Odd 
Fellows Building, on the corner of Main Street, marks the site of Gov- 
ernor Bradford's house. The site of the first meetinghouse is supposed 
to be covered by the tower of this building. Burial Hill was the place 
of the first forts, which served also as meetinghouses, and these are 
marked by oval tablets in the burying ground. The spot where the 
watch house was erected in 1643 * s similarly marked. The most impor- 
tant monuments here are over the graves of the Bradfords and of the 
Cushmans. The Governor Bradford obelisk occupies a point com- 
manding the fullest view of the town below. Among other graves of 
note here are those of John Howland, the last survivor in Plymouth of 
the Mayflower passengers, and Adoniram Judson, the Plymouth min- 
ister, father of Adoniram Judson, the early missionary to Burma. 

Watson's Hill, where the first Indians appeared to the colonists, and 
whence came the friendly Samoset and after him Massasoit, lies to the 
southward of Burial Hill. And below is seen the Town Brook crossing, 
where Massasoit and his braves were met by the Puritan leaders, from 
which meeting resulted the famous " league of peace." 




HARBOR AND BAY 171 

V. EXCURSIONS AND TOURS 
HARBOR AND BAY 

To Pemberton (Hull) and Nantasket. By steamboats of Nantasket 
Beach Steamboat Company. Hourly from Rowe's Wharf (Atlantic 
Avenue circuit elevated railway station at door). Fare, 25 cents each 
way. Passengers have their choice of going to Nantasket by boat or 
landing at Pemberton and continuing to Nantasket along the shore 
by the electric trains of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Rail- 
road. Stations at Stony Beach, Allerton, Waveland, Kenberma, Bay- 
side, and Windermere. 

To Crow Point and Hingham. By steamboats of above-named company 
from same wharf. Fare, 25 cents each way. 

To Plymouth. By steamboats of above-named company from same 
wharf. Fare, 75 cents each w r ay. At Plymouth carriages are at the 
wharf for the tour of the town. Plymouth is also reached by railroad 
and electric lines (see South Shore, under Day Trips). 

To Provincetown. By steamer Dorothy Bradfoj-d from Snow's Arch 
Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station, Atlantic Avenue circuit, Elevated 
railway (for details, see advertisements in daily papers), or by trains of 
the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad (Plymouth Division) 
from South Station. The trip by water across the bay is very pleasant 
on a calm day. The steamer remains at Provincetown for an hour or two, 
giving visitors opportunity to look over the quaint town, and especially 
the great sand dunes which rise back of it and break off the strong 
northeast gales. 

To Hough's Neck (a pleasant resort in the city of Quincy). By steam- 
boats from Snow's Arch Wharf, four times daily. 

To Nahant. By steamboats from Otis Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf 
station, Atlantic Avenue circuit, Elevated railway. The boats pass out 
through Shirley Gut, between Winthrop and Deer Island. (For details 
of sailing, fares, etc., see advertisements in daily papers.) 

To Gloucester. By steamboats from Central Wharf, near State Street 
station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Fare, 50 cents each way ; round trip, 
75 cents. (For details of times of sailing, see advertisements in daily 
papers.) The boats of this line pass along the picturesque North Shore 
for the whole way, making a delightful trip. Gloucester is also reached 
by railroad and electric lines (see North Shore, under Day Trips). 

To Newburyport and Haverhill. By steamboats from Lewis Wharf, 
near Battery Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. (For details of 
sailings, etc., see advertisements in daily papers.) 



\-j2 maim: coast and Canadian points 

THE MAINE COAST AND RIVER POINTS 

To Portland. By steamboats of the Eastern Steamship Corporation 
from Central Wharf, near State Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. 
Every evening, summer season, at 7. Day trips three times a week. 
Fare, $1.25 each way; stateroom extra, according to location. 

To Rockland and Bangor. By steamboats of above-named company 
from India Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station. Every evening at 5. 
These boats connect at Rockland with steamers of the same line for 
Mount Desert; also with boats for various island and shore resorts in 
Penobscot Bay, 

To Bar Harbor (Mount Desert). By steamboats of the same corpo- 
ration, from India Wharf, every evening (summer season) at 5. Three 
different routes — the Bar Harbor Line, the Blue Hill Line, and the 
Sedgwick Line — between Rockland, Maine, and the Mt. Desert sec- 
tion. The lines from Rockland pass through the beautiful scenery of the 
islands in Penobscot Bay, and touch at various points, among them 
Islesboro, Castine, Deer Isle, Sedgwick, Blue Hill, Brooklin, Southwest 
Harbor, Northeast Harbor. 

To Bath and Augusta. By steamers of the same corporation, Ken- 
nebec Line, from Foster's Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station, Atlantic 
Avenue circuit. Every evening (summer season) at 6, except that the 
Friday evening steamer runs to Bath only. 

CANADIAN POINTS 

To Eastport, Maine, and St. John, N.B. By steamers of the Eastern 
Steamship Company from Union Wharf, near Battery Street station, 
Atlantic Avenue circuit. Mondays and Fridays. 

To Yarmouth, N.S., and the Provinces. By steamers of the Boston 
and Yarmouth Company, from Central Wharf, near Battery station, 
daily, except Saturday (summer season) at 2 p.m. At Yarmouth connec- 
tion is made with the Halifax and Southwestern Railway for points 
along the south shore of Xova Scotia ; also with trains of the Domin- 
ion Atlantic Railway for the " Land of Evangeline," the Annapolis 
Valley, Halifax, and (via Digby and steamer across the Bay of Fundy) 
St. John, N.B. 

To Halifax, N. S., Cape Breton, and Prince Edward Islands. By steamers 
of the Plant Line from Commercial Wharf, near Battery Street station, 
Atlantic Avenue circuit. Tuesdays and Saturdays at noon. At Halifax 
connect with trains of the Intercolonial Railway for all parts of Nova 
Scotia, New Brunswick, and Quebec; at Hawkesbury, C.B., with trains 



COASTWISE POINTS 173 

of the Intercolonial Railway for the Bras d'Or Lake, Sydney, and Louis- 
burg ; at Charlottetown, P.E.I., with trains of the Prince Edward Island 
Railway for all parts of the island. At Sydney, C.B., the steamer Bruce 
may be taken for Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, connecting there 
with the Reid Newfoundland Company's railroad across the island of 
St. John's, a journey of twenty-eight hours. 

OTHER COASTWISE POINTS 

To New York around Cape Cod, through Nantucket, Vineyard and 
Long Island sounds (May to November). By steamers of the Eastern 
Steamship Corporation from India Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station, 
Atlantic Avenue circuit. Every afternoon at 5. Fare, $4.00 each way ; 
stateroom extra, according to location. 

To Philadelphia. By steamers of the Boston & Philadelphia Steam- 
ship Company from India Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station, Atlantic 
Avenue circuit. Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 3 P.M. Fare, 
$10 each way ; round trip, $18, including meals and stateroom berth. 

To Baltimore and Norfolk. By steamers of the Merchants & Miners 
Transportation Company from Battery Wharf (station of Elevated railway 
at the door). Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, at 2 P.M. 

To Savannah, Ga. By steamers of the Ocean Steamship Company 
from Lewis Wharf, near Battery Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. 
Wednesdays, at 3 p.m. 

To Charleston, S.C. By steamers of the Clyde Line. Twice a week. 
(For details, see advertisements in daily papers.) 

To Jamaica. By steamers of the United Fruit Company from Long 
Wharf, State Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Sailings twice a 
week. Fare, $35 each way ; round trip, $60, meals and stateroom berth 
included, during the summer season. (For details, see advertisements in 
daily papers.) 

RAILROAD TOURS 

To Hyannis. By trains of the New York, New Haven & Hartford 
Railroad, Plymouth Division (South Station). Eight trains daily. A 
•journey of about two hours and a half, via Bridgewater, Middleboro, 
Buzzards Bay, and Yarmouth. 

To Woods Hole. By the same route as the above to Buzzards Bay ; 
thence via Monument Beach and Falmouth. Trains and running time 
are about the same as to Hyannis. At Woods Hole is the Marine 
Biological Laboratory, incorporated in 18S8 and opened in the summer 
of that year. Here investigations in marine biology are systematically 



174 RAILROAD TOURS 

and constantly pursued by a corps of scientists, aided during the summer 
months by students from several of the universities. 

To Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. By trains to Woods Hole, as 
above ; thence by steamers of the Marine District, New York, New 
Haven & Hartford Railroad. Train from Boston at 1.38 p.m. makes 
close connection at Woods Hole. At Nantucket the steamer connects 
with trains of the Nantucket Central Railroad for Siasconset. 

To Newport, R.I. By trains of the New York, New Haven & Hart- 
ford Railroad, Providence Division (South Station). Eight times daily 
(from Back Bay station four minutes later), via Mansfield, Taunton, and 
Fall River. A journey of about two hours. Also by trains of the same 
division to Providence, R.I., frequently through the day, a ride of one 
hour; thence by steamers of the Providence, Fall River & Newport 
Steamboat Company. The ride down Narragansett Bay is very beau- 
tiful. Round trip, 60 cents. 

To the White Mountains. By trains of the Boston & Maine Railroad 
(North Station), Southern Division, via Lowell, Nashua, Manchester, 
Concord, and Franklin, N.H. ; Western Division, via Lawrence, Haver- 
hill, Dover, and Rochester, N.H. ; Eastern Division, via Salem, New- 
buryport, Portsmouth, and Rochester, N.H. (or via Portland, Me., and 
Maine Central Railroad by Sebago Lake and Bartlett, N.H.); to all 
mountain points. By either route a choice of two or three through 
trains daily can usually be had. The exact leaving time of each train 
can be obtained from advertisements in the daily papers, or by inquiry 
at the information booth in the waiting room of the North Station, or 
at the company's up-town passenger office, corner of Washington 
and Milk streets, where tickets may be bought and parlor-car seats or 
Pullman berths secured. 

To Lake Champlain, Vermont Resorts, Montreal, and Canadian Points. 
By trains of the Boston & Maine Railroad, Southern Division, via Lowell, 
Concord, N.H., White River Junction, Vt, and Vermont Central Rail- 
road; Fitchburg Division, via Fitchburg, Keene, N.H., Brattleboro and 
White River Junction, Vt., and Vermont Central Railroad ; or via Rut- 
land, Vt., and the Rutland Railroad to Burlington ; thence through the 
midst of Lake Champlain, over its beautiful islands to Alburgh, and 
on to St. Johns, P.Q. The same remarks as to train service, hours of 
leaving, etc., apply as in the case of the White Mountain trips. 

To Saratoga, Lake George, and the Adirondacks. By trains of the Bos- 
ton & Maine Railroad, Fitchburg Division, via Fitchburg, Greenfield, 
North Adams, and the Hoosac Tunnel. The same remarks as to train 
service, etc., apply as in the case of the two last outlined trips. 



IMPORTANT POINTS OF INTEREST 175 

VI. IMPORTANT POINTS OF INTEREST 
For the Visitor whose Time is limited 

The visitor who has only two or three days to spend in Boston will find the 
following list of leading points of interest helpful in arranging an itinerary. 

Old South Meetinghouse. Washington Street, corner of Milk Street. Loan 
historical collection here. Open week days from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Fee, 25 cents. 

Old State House. Head of State Street. Memorial halls with historical col- 
lections, pictures, and library. Open from 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. ; Saturdays from 
9.30 to 4. Free. 

Faneuil Hall. Faneuil Hall Square. Also military museum of the Ancient 
and Honorable Artillery Company in their armory on the upper floors. Open 
from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., except Saturdays and Sundays. Free. 

King's Chapel. Tremont Street, corner of School Street. Dating from 1754. 
Interesting interior. 

King's Chapel Burying Ground. Tremont Street, adjoining the Chapel. 
Oldest in Boston, established at about the time of the settlement. Contains 
tombs of the Winthrops, John Cotton, Governor Leverett, and numerous other 
Colonial families. 

Granary Burying Ground. Tremont Street, midway between Beacon and 
Park streets. Dating from 1660. Tombs and graves of governors of the Colony 
and the Commonwealth, and of Samuel Adams, James Otis, John Hancock, Paul 
Revere, Peter Faneuil, the parents of Benjamin Franklin, with many others of 
distinction or interest. 

Park Street Church. Corner of Tremont and Park streets. Dating from 
1809. Historic. Interesting specimen of early nineteenth-century architecture, 
notably the tower and spire. 

St. PauPs Cathedral. Tremont Street, near Temple Place, opposite the 
Common. The church dating from 1820. Interesting interior. Pew No. 25 
that of Daniel Webster. 

State House. Beacon Hill. Beacon Street and State House Park. Front 
part — the " Bulfinch Front" so called — built 1795-1797; the extension erected 
1889-1895. Decorated interior. Numerous interesting features. Memorial Hall, 
with the battle flags, statues,. and portraits. The " Bradford manuscript" in the 
State Library. State House Park, with statues and monument. 

Shaw Monument. Beacon Street against the Common, opposite the State 
House. Memorial to Colonel Robert G. Shaw, commander of the first regiment 
of colored troops in the Civil War. A statue in high relief upon a bronze tablet. 

Boston Athenaeum. ioy 2 Beacon Street. Proprietary library. Dating from 
1807, oldest in the country. Interesting interior. 



176 IMPORTANT POINTS OF INTEREST 

House of the Historic Genealogical Society. Ash burton Place . Contains 
the most extensive and valuable genealogical collection known. Open to visitors 
without fee or charge from 9 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. daily, except Sundays and holidays. 

Old West Church. Cambridge Street, corner of Lynde Street, West End. 
Now the West End Branch of the Public Library. Built in 1806. Interior 
architecture well preserved. Successor of the West Church of the Revolutionary 
period, which was occupied as barracks by the British, who pulled down the 
steeple and used it for firewood, the patriots having employed it for signaling 
the camp at Cambridge. 

Christ Church. Salem Street, North End. Oldest existing church in Boston. 
Interesting interior. Open daily. Fee, including view from the tower, 25 cents. 

Copp's Hill Burying Ground. Hull Street, opening opposite to Christ Church. 
Oldest part dating from 1660. Historic tombs and graves. 

Paul Revere 's House. North Square; also various other old houses and his- 
toric sites of the North End. 

Bunker Hill Monument. Monument Square, Charlestown District. A few 
minutes' ride on the elevated railway from the North Station station. Revolu- 
tionary relics in the lodge. Open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Fee, 20 cents. 

United States Navy Yard. Approach from City Square through Chelsea Street, 
Charlestown District. Naval Museum open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Free. 

Natural History Museum. Berkeley Street, corner of Boylston Street, Back 
Bay. Open week days from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with the exception of Wednesdays 
and Saturdays, when the hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Free on these days; fee 
at other times, 25 cents. 

Art Museum. Huntington Avenue, Back Bay. Open week days from 9 a.m. to 
5 p.m. (November 1 to March 1, 4 p.m.). Free on Saturdays and Sundays (Sun- 
day hours from 12 M. to 5 p.m.), and public holidays; fee other times, 25 cents. 

Public Library. Copley Square, Back Bay. Mural decorations by John S. 
Sargent, Edwin A. Abbey, and Puvis de Chavannes. Second largest library in 
the world for free circulation. Open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. through the sum- 
mer months; other seasons till 10 p.m. ; Sunday from 2 to 9 p.m. in summer; 
10 p.m. other seasons. 

Trinity Church. Copley Square. One of the richest examples of ecclesiastical 
architecture in the country. 

Phillips Brooks Memorial. By the side of Trinity Church. Statue and canopy. 

Harvard University Buildings and Museums. Cambridge; less than fifteen 
minutes' ride by Cambridge Subway. (See Cambridge and Harvard, pp. 98-109.) 

Various parts of the chain of parks comprised in the Boston City Parks 
System and the public reservations embraced in the Metropolitan Parks System 
are within easy reach by electric or steam cars (see Public Parks, pp. 146-15 1) ; 
and there are pleasant harbor excursions to be enjoyed, occupying only a few 
hours or part of a day. (See Harbor and Bay, under Excursions and Tours, 
p. 171.) 



INDEX 



Abbey, Edwin A., 82 

Aberdeen District, 115 

Adams Academy, Quincy, 135 

Adams, Charles Francis, Sr., birthplace, 

34; 48; town house, 70 
Adams, Charles Francis, Jr., 91 h ; gift of, 

to Quincy Historical Society, 136 
Adams, Henry, tomb, 135 
Adams, Herbert, 77 
Adams, John, portrait, 13; 14, 33; statue 

of, at Mt. Auburn, 108; gifts of, to 

Quincy, 135 ; birthplace, 136 
Adams, John Quincy, portrait, 13 ; 14; site 

of mansion house, 34; tomb, 135 ; birth- 
place, 136 
Adams, Samuel, portrait, 13, 14; statue of, 

in Adams Square, 15, 16; tomb, 26, 27 ; 

48; statue of, at Lexington, 155 
Adams House, 34 
Adams mansion, Quincv, 136 
Adams Square, Boston, modern, 16 
Adams Street, Milton, 13 r; Quincy, 136 
Addington Road, Brookline, 1 14 
African church, first, Boston, 69 
Agassiz, Louis, monument of, at Mt. 

Auburn, 108 
Alcott, A. Bronson, 71 
Alcott, Louisa M., Boston homes, 71 ; 

Concord home, 156; grave, 157 
Alcott family, homes, 156, 157, 158 
Alden homestead, Duxbury, 168 
Aldrich, Thomas Bailey, Boston homes, 

70, 71, 73 
Algerine Corner, Milton, 132 
Algonquin Club, 80 
Allston, Washington, head of, 86; home, 

99 

Allston Hall, 88 

American Academy of Arts and Sciences, 
91 H 

American Board of Commissioners for 
Foreign Missions, 45, 46 

American House (site of Gen. Joseph 
Warren's house), 18 

American Peace Society, 30 

American Unitarian Association, 45 

American Waltham Watch Company, 1 27 

Ames, Fisher, 137 

Ames, Nathaniel, 137 

Ancient and Hon. Artillery Company, ori- 
gin, 5; armory, 13; annual evolutions, 
33 



Anderson Bridge, Cambridge, 107 

Andrew, Gov. John A., portrait, 13; 
statue, 41 ; 42; grave and statue of, at 
Hingham, 167 

Andros, Lady, tomb, 23 

Andros, Sir Edmund, 5 ; subscriber to 
King's Chapel, 24, 25; church organiza- 
tion coerced by, 52; refuge of, 53 

Angell, Dr. George T., memorial, 53 

Anthology Club (Boston Athenaeum), 46 

"Appeal to the Great Spirit," statue, 91 

Appleton, Samuel, 101 

Appleton Chapel, Cambridge, 101 

Appleton's pulpit, Saugus, 159 

Apthorp, Rev. East, 109 

Aquarium. See Marine Park 

Arborway, 146 

Archbishop's house, Boston, 93 

Aristides, statue, 70 

Arlington, 152, 153 

Arlington House (Cooper's Tavern), 152 

Arlington Street Church, Boston, 77 

Army and Navy Monument, 32 

Arnold Arboretum and Bussey Park, 97, 
146 

Arnold Arboretum and Olmsted Park, 97 

Arsenal, Watertown, 128 

Art Club. See Boston Art Club 

Art Gallery, Maiden, 145 

Art Museum, 46, 85,91 A-gr e, 91 g, no 

Ashburton Place, 47 

Aspinwall Hill, Brookline, 114 

Athenaeum. See Boston Athenseum 

Athenaeum, Salem, 162 

Athenaeum Press, 98 

Athletic Club, 81 

Atlantic Avenue, 10, 53 

Avery oak, Dedham, 138 

Back Bay, extent, 74 ; filling, 75 ; District, 
plan, v 

Back Bay Fens. See Fens 

Back Bay station, 81 

Baily, Rev. John, 26 

Baker, William Emerson, 121 

Ball, Thomas, statues by : of Andrew, 41 ; 
Quincy, 49; of Washington, 77 ; of Sum- 
ner, 77; birthplace, 68; group by, 94 

Ballou, Hosea, monument to, at Mt. 
Auburn, 108 

Ballou Hall, Tufts College, t 44 

Bancroft, George-, 11 



*77 



i 7 8 



INDEX 



Hanks, Nathaniel Prentiss, statue, 44; 127 

Banner, Peter, architect, 29 

Baptist Church, Newton (-'enter, 125 

Baptist Church, present First, Boston, 57 

Baptist headquarters, 47 

Baptist meetinghouse, site of first, 56, 57 

Barnum Museum, Tufts College, 144 

Barre*, Col. Isaac, 12 

Barricado, site, 10 

Bartholdi, architect, 80 

Bartlett, Maj. Gen., statue, 42 

Battle tt, Paul W., sculptor, 96 

Bartol, Cyrus A., home, 72; pulpit, 74 

Basehall grounds, 91 g 

Bates, Joshua, 83 

Battery Wharf, 173 

Battle flags, 42 

Battle ground, Concord, 158 

" Battle of Lexington," painting, 155 

Bay Psalm-book, 108 

Bav State Road, 92 

Beach Bluff, 160 

Beachmont, 141, 142 

Beacon, on Beacon Hill, 40, 41 

Beacon Hill, original, 1; 36, 68 

Beacon Hill Reservoir, 69 

Beacon Street, 39, 45, 68, 80 

Beacon Street Mall, illustrated, 31 

Beaver Brook and Waverley Oaks, 149 

Beck Hall, Cambridge, 99 

Bedford Street, Lexington, 155 

Beethoven, statue, 91 

Belcher, Gov. Jonathan, 25 ; estate, 132 

Belcher milestones, 132 

Belden, Charles F. D., 42 

Belknap, Rev. Jeremy, tomb, 26, 52 

Belknap Street (now Joy Street), 69 

Bell Alley (part of Prince Street), 59 

Bellevue, hotel, 47 

Bellingham, Gov. Richard, 21, 26 

Belmont Square, East Boston, 94 

Bennington, trophies captured at, 44 

Bethel, Father Taylor's, 59 

Beverly, 161 

Bijou Dream, 34 

Billings, Hammatt, architect, 122, 168, 169 

Bishop, Bridget, death warrant, 165 

Bishop house, Salem, 155 

Bishop's Palace, Cambridge, 109 

Black Horse Lane, 57 

Black Horse Tavern, 152 

Blackstone Street, 56 

Blake, Francis, estate, 117 

Blaxton, Rev. William, pioneer, 1, 68 

Blaxton's spring, 70, 71 

Blockade of Boston, the, farce, 14 

Blue Ball, Sign of the, 55 

Blue Hills Parkway, 134, 151 

Blue Hills Reservation, 3, 131, 133, 148 

Board of Trade Building, Boston, n 

Bolton, Charles Knowles, 47 

Booth, Edwin, 22; home, 72; grave, 108 

Boston, founded, 1 ; incorporated, 2 ; pop- 
ulation , 3 : Postal District, 3 ; Post Office 
Department, 3 



Boston Art Club, Si, 88 

Boston Athenasum, 26, 46, 47 

Boston Athletic Association, 81, 116 

Boston Basin. 3 

Boston City Club, 47 

Boston City Hospital, 93 

Boston City Parks System, 64, m. 146- 
148 

Boston College, 93 

Boston Common, surroundings, 31-34; 
old print of, 45; 146 

Boston, frigate, site of shipyard, 64 

Boston Massacre, site of, 5 ; 7, 17 ; graves 
of victims of, 26, 28 ; monument com- 
memorating, 33 ; 51 

Boston Medical Library, 91 g 

Boston Museum, site, 21 ; picture of, 21 

Boston Neck, 1, 75, 107 

Boston Normal School, 91 e, hi 

Boston Opera House, 91, no 

Boston Pier, original, 10 

Boston Sconce (South Battery), 10 

Boston Society of Natural History, 89 

Boston Spiritual Temple. See Spiritual 
Temple 

"Boston Stone, 1737," 56 

Boston Street, Salem, 166 

Boston Subway. See Subway 

Boston Symphony Orchestra, 30 

Boston Tea Party, 16, 51. See also Tea 
Party Wharf 

Boston Theater, 34 

Boston University, 47, 70, 81, 92 

Bostonian Society, 9 

Bosworth Street, 25 

Bow Street, Cambridge. 109 

Bowditch, Nathaniel, 108 

Bowdoin, Gov. James, 17 ; tomb, 26 

Bowlder (Lexington), 155 

Boylston, Dr. Zabdiel, 113 

Boylston, Ward Nicholas, 103 

Boylston house, Brookline, 113 

Boylston Street, Brookline, in 

Boylston Street Subway, 85, 91 h 

Brackett, Walter M., painter, 9 

Bradford, Gov. William, site of house of, 
at Plymouth, 169; monument, 170 

Bradford, Maj. John, house of, at Kings- 
ton, 168 

Bradford Manuscript, 43,-51, 168 

Bradstreet, Simon, 162; grave, 163 

Braintree, 2 

Brattle Square Church, 79 ; site, 17 ; model 
of, 91 r, ; cannon ball, 91 g 

Brattle Street, 16, 17 

Brattle Street, Cambridge, 107 

Brattle, Thomas, Sr., tomb, 23 

Brattle, Thomas, Jr., 23 

Brazer's Building, 5 

Brazier, Madam, 15 

Brazier's Inn (later Hancock Tavern), 15 

Breed's Hill, site of Bunker Hill Monu- 
ment, 16 

Breed's Island, 2, 141 

Brewster, Elder, 16S 



INDEX 



79 



Brewster, hotel, 34 

Brick Meetinghouse, Boston, 6 

Bridge, John, statue of, Cambridge, 105 

Bridge, Rev. Thomas, 22 

Brigham, Charles E., architect, 40 

Brigham Hospital. See Peter B. Brigham 

Hospital 
Brighton District, Boston, 3, 97 
" Brimstone Corner," 29 
British Coffee House, 7 
Broad Street, Salem, 166 
Broad's Hill, Natick, 123 
Brook Farm, 96, 97 
Brooklawn, 126 
Brookline, 2, 109-115, 146 
Brookline Avenue, 75, 91 f, hi 
Brookline Reservoir, 112 
Brookline Street Bridge, 98, 99 
Brooks, Phillips, 48 ; rector of Trinity 

Church, 86 ; statue, 87 ; 101 ; grave, 108 
Brooks, Richard E., 77 
Brunswick, hotel, 81 
Bryant, J. G. F., architect, 40 
Buckman Tavern, Lexington, 155 
Bulfinch, Charles, architect, 23 ; designer 

of " Bulfinch Front," 12, 40, 41, 43, 60, 

74, 103 

Bulkeley, Peter, 158 

Bunch-of-Grapes Tavern, 6, 7 

Bunker Hill, 68 

Bunker Hill Monument, 65 ; description, 
66-68; Association, 44, 67 

Burgoyne, Gen. John, 14, 51, 109, 127 

Burial Hill, Plymouth, 169 

Burlingame, Anson, portrait, 13; monu- 
ment of, at Mt. Auburn, 108 

Burnet, Gov. William, 25 

Burns, Anthony, meeting against rendi- 
tion of, 15 ; riot over, 19 

Burying ground, ancient Town, Brookline, 
112; Watertown, 129; Milton, 132; 
Quincy, 135; Arlington, 153; Ye Old, 
Lexington, 155; Salem (Charter Street), 
163, (Broad Street), 166 

Burying Hill, Marshfield, 168 

Business Quarter, Boston, 3 

Bussey Park, 97, 146 

Buttrick, Maj. John, memorial, 42 ; grave, 
'57 

Byles, Rev. Mather, 34 

Bynner, Edwin L., 59 

Cabot house, Salem, 166 

Cadet Armory, 94 

Cadet Armory, Salem, 162 

Cambridge, 98-109 

Cambridge Bridge, 73, 74, 98 

Cambridge Common, 105 

Cambridge Subway, 36, 98, 109, 129, 152 

Camp Hill, East Boston, 94 

Canavan, M. J., 32 

Caner, Mr., rector of King's Chapel, 24 

Canoeing, 116 

Cape Ann, 3 

Capen, Hopestill, 56 



Captain's Hill, Duxbury, 168 
" Careswell," Marshfield, 168 
Carey, Arthur A., 83 
Carey Public Library, Lexington, 155 
Cass, Col. Thomas, statue of, 77 
Castle Island, 147 

Cathedral of the Holy Cross, Boston, 93 
Cattle Market, Watertown, 128 
Central Burying Ground, Boston, 34 
Central Church, 79 
Central District, Boston, 3, 4 
Central Hill, Somerville, 143 
Gentry Hill, 41 
Chamber of Commerce, 11 
Chandler's Pond, 115, 119 
Change (formerly Flagg) Alley, 15 
Charming, William Ellery, Boston pulpit, 
53 ; home, 70; statue, 77 ; monument of, 
at Mt. Auburn, 108 
Channing Home for Consumptive Women, 

91 F 
Charles River Banks, 149 
Charles River Basin, 73 
Charles River Embankment. See River- 
bank 
Charles River village, 123 
Charles Street, 72, 73 
Charles Street Jail, 73 
Charlesbank, 73, 148 
Charlesgate, 91 h, 92 

Charlestown, first settlement, r, 66; an- 
nexed to Boston, 2, 3, 65-68 
Charlestown Bridge, 57 
Charlestown ferry, 57 
Charlestown Heights, 147 
Charter Street, Boston, 57, 64 
Charter Street, Salem, 163 
Cheapside (subsequently Cornhill), 16 
Checkley tomb, 27 
Chelsea, 2, 142, 143 
Cheney estate, 121 
Cherry Street, Cambridgeport, 99 
Chestnut Hill Park, 148 
Chestnut Hill Reservoir, 114 
Chestnut Street, Boston, 70, 72, 73 
Chestnut Street, Salem, 165 
Cheverus, John, 15 
Chickatawbut Hill, 133 
Chickering Hall, 90 
Child, Lydia Maria, 59 
Child, Tom, 56 

Children's and Infants' Hospitals, 91 f 
Chilton, Mary, 23 
Chilton Club, 80 

Choate, Rufus, portrait, 13 ; statue, 20 
Christ Church, Boston, 59-61 
Christ Church, Cambridge, 106 
Christ Church burial ground, Braintree, 

136 
Christian Science temple. See Church of 

Christ, Scientist 
Church, Benjamin, 23 
Church of Christ, Scientist, 90 
Church of England established in the 
Colony, 24 



I. 'SO 



INDEX 



Church of the Advent, 73 

Church of the Disciples, 91 f 

Church of the Immaculate Conception, 93 

Churches, convenient, in Boston, ix, x 

City Hall, Boston, 3, 48, 49 ; Cambridge, 

99; Newton, 118; Quincy, 135; Somer- 

ville, 144 ; Salem, 166 
City Hall Annex, 18 
City Point, South Boston, 95, m 
City Square, Charlestown, 66 
Civic League, house of, 69 
Claflin estate, 126 
Clatiin School, Newton ville, 126 
Clarendon Street Baptist Church, Boston, 

94 

Clark-Frankland mansion, site of, 59 

Clark house, Brookline, 112 

Clarke, James Freeman, 4S ; note from 
Hawthorne to, 71 ; 91c; 

Clarke, Jonas, Lexington, 155 

Clark's Hotel, 34 

Clifton Heights, 150 

Clough, George A., architect, 20 

Clyde Park, 1 13 

"Cockerel Church" vane, 58 

Codfish, the historic, 9, 43 

Cohasset, 167 

Cole's Hill, Plymouth, 169 

College Club, 79 

College Hill, Medford, 744 

College of Pharmacy, Boston, 89 

College Settlement, Boston, 94 

Collins house, Danvers, 161 

Collins, P. A., memorial, 91 h 

Collis P. Huntington Hospital for Can- 
cer, 91 F 

Colonial Club, Cambridge, 100 

Colonial prison, 19 

Colonial Theater, 34 

Columbus Avenue, 94 

Columbus statues : Louisburg Square, 70 ; 
Cathedral grounds, 93 

Committee of Correspondence, Boston, 14 

Commonwealth Avenue, 74, 78; statues 
in, 78-79 ; 80, 1 15, 146 

Commonwealth Avenue Parkway, 74, 146 

Commonwealth Pier, 94 

Conant, Roger, statue of, at Salem, 64 

Concord, 156-159; routes to, 152 ; map 
156 

Concord Antiquarian Society, 156 

Concord Reformatory, 159 

Concord schools, 159 

Congregational House, 45 ; Pilgrim Hall 
in, 46 

Congress Street, former, 4 ; present, 46 

Conservatory of Music. See New .Eng- 
land Conservatory 

Constitution, timber sought for, 139 

Constitution Wharf, 64 

Continental forts, sites of, at Somerville, 
'43. '44 

Conway, Field Marshal, portrait, 12 

Coolidge, John, gift of descendants of, to 
Waterti >\\ n, 1 ■ , 



Coolidge, T. Jefferson. 104 

1 looper's Tavern, site, 152 

Copley, John Singleton, portraits by, 13, 

.; v ; site of house, 39: estate, 68, 86; 

sometime home of, at Salem, 166 
Copley Hall, 88 
Copley-Plaza, hotel, 80 
Copley Society, 88 
Copley Square, car lines passing through, 

vi : 74; surroundings, 80-86 
Copley Square Hotel, 81, 90 
Copp, William (gave name to Copp's 

Hill), 62, 64 
( 'opp's Hill, 59-65 
Copp's Hill Burying Ground, 61-64 
Copp's Hill Terrace, 64, 147 
Corey, Giles, " witchcraft " victim, Salem, 

164 
Corey Hill, Brookline, 114, 119 
Corinthian Yacht Club, 160 
Corn Court, 15 
Corahill, 16 
Cort Theater, 34 
Corwin, George, sheriff, 162 : witchcraft 

memorials of, at Salem, 165; grave, 166 
Corwin, Judge Jonathan, 165 
Cottage Hill, Winthrop, 139 
Cotton, Rev. John, preacher, 5 ; estate, 

20; tomb, 22 ; original farm, 114 
Cotton Hill, site, 20 
Country Club, Brookline, 113 
County Jail, Boston, 73; Salem, 160 
Couper, William, sculptor, 42 
Court House of 1692, Salem, 165 
Court House, present, Boston, 20: Ded- 

ham, 13S ; Salem, 160 ; Plymouth, r , 
Court Park, Winthrop, 140 
Court Street, 16, 19 

Cow (or Horse) Pond, Boston Common, 33 
Craildock house, Medford, 145 
" Cradle of American Liberty," 14 
Craigie Bridge, 73 
Craigie (afterward Longfellow) house, 

Cambridge, 107 
Crancb, Richard, 166 
Crane Public Library, Quincy, 135 
Crawford. Thomas, statue by, 108 
Creek Lane, 56 
Crescent Beach, 141 
Crispus Attucks Monument, 33 
Crystal Lake, Newton, 126 
Cunimings & Sears, architects, ^s 
dishing, Lieut. Gov. Thomas, tomb of, 26 
Cushman, Charlotte, 25 ; birthplace, > s ; 

monument of, at Mt. Auburn, 108 
Cushman School, Boston, 58 
Cushmans, graves of the, Plymouth, 170 
Custom House, Boston, n ; Salem, 160,163 

Daille. Rev. Pierre, 26 

Dallin, Cyrus E., sculptor, 91, 153 

Dana, Richard H., Sr., 72 

I >,m,i, Richard 1 1 ., Jr., 107 

Danvers, r6i 

Dasset Alley (now Franklin Avenue), 17 



INDEX 



181 



Davenport, Rev. John, tomb, 22 

Davis, CapL Isaac, 42 

Davis Square, West Somerville, 144 

Dawes, Col. Thomas, monument to, 22 

Daye, Stephen, first printer, 108 

Deaconess Hospital, 91 f 

Dedham, 137-139 

Dedham Historical Society, 137-139 

Deland, Margaret, homes, 70, 72, 78 

Denison House, Boston, 94 

Derby Street, Salem, 163 

Deshon, Moses, artisan, 9, 14 

D'Estaing, allusion to, 56 

Devens, Maj. Gen. Charles, statue, 44 

Dexter, Mrs. Wirt, gate given to Harvard 

by, 100 
Dickens, Charles, in Boston, 25 
Diocesan House, 69 
Dock Square, 4, 16 
Dorchester District, 1, 3, 97 
Dorchester Heights, 95 
Dorchester Neck, 2 
Dorchester Park, 147 
Dorchesterway, 11 1, 147 
Doublet Hill, Weston, 117 
Downing- Bradstreet house, Salem, 162 
Dowse Library, 91 g 
Drowne, "Deacon" Shem, artificer, 13, 

52, 58 ; grave, 62 
Dudley, Gov. Joseph, 25 ; milestones set 

up by, 106 
Dudley, Thomas, 108 
Dudleys, tomb of the, 96 
Duel, first fought in Boston, 7, 32 
Dummer, Gov. W'illiam, 26 
Dunster, Henry, 6 
Dunster Street, Cambridge, 108 
Durant, Henry F., Wellesley College, 122 
Durant, Pauline A. F., 122 
Duxbury, 168 

East Armory, 94 

East Boston, 2, 3, 94 ; tunnel to, to, 19 

East India Marine Building, Salem, 162 

East Lexington, 153 

East Street, Dedham, 138 

Eastern Yacht Club, 160 

Echo Bridge, 124, 149 

Edward Everett Square, Dorchester, 41, 
75 

Egg Rock, off Nahant, 159 

Eliot, Andrew, minister of the New North 
Church, 59, 60 

Eliot, Chas. W., inscriptions on monu- 
ments by, 24, 32, 37; pupil of Latin 
School, 48 

Eliot, John, son of Andrew, minister, 60 

Eliot, John, the "apostle," 5; site of 
church of, Roxbury, 95 ; tomb, 96 

Eliot Church, South Natick, 123 

Eliot Monument, Newton, 118; South 
Natick, 123 

Eliot Oak, South Natick, 123 

Eliot School, North End, 57 

Elks, Boston lodge, house of, 47 



Elliott, John, painter, 83 

Elmwood Avenue, Cambridge, 107 

Emancipation Group, Park Square, 94 

Emerson, Dr. Edward W., 159 

Emerson, Ellen, 156 

Emerson, Ralph Waldo, pupil of Latin 
School, 48, 51 ; minister Second Church, 
Boston, 58, 88, 100 ; home of, at Concord, 
156; in Old Manse, 157; grave, 157 

Emerson, Rev. William, 46, 79 

Emerson house, Concord, 156 

Emmanuel Church, 78 

Endicott, Gov. John, 1 ; site of house of, 
at Boston, 20; site of house of, at Salem, 
166; portraits, 166 

Endicott, William C, 166 

Engineers' Club, 79 

English High School, Boston, 93 ; Cam- 
bridge, 99; Somerville, 144 

Episcopal church, second, established, 60 

Episcopal Church Association, 69 

Episcopal Theological .School, 107 

Ericson, Leif, statue, 79; supposed site of 
house, 107, 108 

Esplanade, 73, 92 

Essex Institute, Salem, 161, 162 

Essex Street, Salem, 162, 165 

Ether Monument, 74, 76 

Eustis, Gov. William, 155 

Everett, Edward, portrait, 13; statue, 41; 
45, 48, 107 ; grave of, at Mt. Auburn, 108 

Everett, Edward, Square. See Edward 
Everett Square 

Evergreen Cemetery, Brookline, 115 

Exchange Building, 11 

Exchange Street, former, 4 

Excursions and tours, 171-174 

Exeter Street, 89 

Eye and Ear Infirmary, 73 

Fairbanks house, Dedham, 138 

Faneuil, Peter, 8, 12, 14; successors, 14; 

mansion, 21 ; tomb, 26 
Faneuil Hall, location, 4, 11 ; description, 

12, 13; the second, 14; lottery for, 14; 

surroundings, 15 
Faneuil Hall Market, 16 
Faneuil Hall Square, 15; west side, 16 
Farnsworth, Isaac D., gift to Wellesley 

College, 122 
Farragut, Admiral, statue, 95 
Fay House, Cambridge, 106 
Federal Building, 52, 53 
Federal Street, 53 
Federal Street, Salem, 161, 164 
Federal Street Church, 53, 78 
Federal Street Theater, 53 
Fellsmere, 145 
Fellsway, 141 

Felton, President, sometime home of, 100 
Fens, 91, 91 E, 91 f, 91 H, 92, no, in, 146 
Fenway, 91 f, 91 g, 91 h 
Fenway Court, 91 e, hi 
Fenway Park, Baseball grounds, 91 h 
Fenway Road, 91 f 



1 82 



INDEX 



Fields, James T., " Curtained Corner " of, 
4' i : home, 73 

Fields, Mrs. Annie, 73 

First Baptist Church (present), 17, 79 ; 
first meetinghouse, site of, 56 

First Meetinghouse, Salem, i(>2 

First Parish Church, Brookline, 112 

First Parish Church, Quincy, 135 

First Parish meetinghouse, Watertown, 
129 

First Religious Society in Roxbury, 95 

Fish (afterward North) Street, 57 

Flagg (afterward Change) Alley, 15 

Fogg Art Museum, Harvard Univ., 101 

Follen Church, Fast Lexington, 153 

" Foot of the Rocks," Arlington, 153 

Forbes family estates, Milton, 132 

Ford, Daniel Sharp, 47 

Ford Hall, 47 

Forest Hills Cemetery, 97 

Forsyth Dental Infirmary, 91 g 

Fort Banks, Winthrop, 140 

Fort Heath, Winthrop, 140 

Fort Hill Square, 53 

Fort Independence, 147 

Fort Sewall, Marblehead, 160 

Forts: Revolutionary, Roxbury, 95 ; Win- 
throp, 140; Boston, 147; Marblehead, 
160; first, at Plymouth, 170 

Foster, John, of 1681, 64; John, giver of 
the Chantiing statue, 77 

Foster Lane, 64 

Fowle, Marshall, 128 

Francis Parkman Memorial, 146 

Frankland, Sir Harry, 59 

Franklin, Benjamin, printing office, work 
place of, 17 ; monument to parents of, 27: 
at Latin School, 48 ; statue, 48 ; birth- 
place, 52 ; place of baptism, 52 ; boyhood 
home, 55 ; origin of ballad by, 63 ; gift 
of, to Harvard, 104 

Franklin, James, brother of Benjamin, 17 

Franklin, Josiah, dwelling and shop, 55 ; 
tomb of, and his wife, 26 ; monument to, 
28 

Franklin Avenue, 16, 17 

Franklin Field, 147 

Franklin Park, 33 a, 96, 147 

Franklin Park Zoological Garden, 34 a, 

'47 
Franklin Union, 94 
Free Masons' hall, first, 55 
Freeman, Rev. James, King's Chapel, 24 
French, Daniel C, statues by: Rufus 

Choate, 20; Maj. Gen. Bartlett, 42 ; Gov. 

Wolcott, 43 ; Maj. Gen. Hooker 44 ; 

John Harvard, 104; the Minuteman,i58; 

memorial at grave of Martin Milmore, 

97 ; the Francis Parkman memorial, 146 ; 

bronze doors, Public Library, 82; 91 <. 
French's redoubt, 143 
Frog Pond, Boston Common, 32, 33 
Frothingham, Richard, in 
Fuller, Margaret, monument of, at Mt. 

Auburn, 108 



Gage, Gen. Thomas, 61, 104 ; headquarters 

of, at Danvers, 161 
Gallop, Capt. John, 62 
Gallop's Island, 62 
Galloupe house, 62 
Gallows Hill, Salem, 160, 166 
Gannett, Rev. Ezra, 78 
Gardner, Mrs. John L., art museum, 91 e, 

in; country seat, 1 12 
Gardner Circle, Brookline, 114 
Gardner family tomb, Brookline, 112 
Garnsey, Elmer E., painter, .S3 
Garrison, Wm. Lloyd, first public anti- 
slavery address, 29 ; first office of the 

Liberator, 53; mobbing of, 53 ; statue 

78 : home, 96 ; tomb, 97 
General Theological Library, 69 
Georgian, hotel, 34 

Gerrish's, Col., regiment (Revolution), 142 
Gerry, Elbridge, at Black Horse Tavern, 

.152 
Gilbert, John, tomb, 97 
Gilman, Rev. Samuel, author of " Fair 

Harvard," 106 
Ginn and Company, publishing house, 37, 

38, 47 : Athenaeum Press, 98 
Girls' High School, 93 
Girls' Latin School, 91 e, in 
Gloucester, 161, 171 
(Hover, Gen. John, statue, 78 
Goddard Chapel, Tufts College, 144 
Goddard Gymnasium, Tufts College, 144 
Goddard house, Brookline, 113 
Goffe, regicide, 109 
Goodell, Abner C, Salem, 164 
Goose, Mary, 29 
Gore, Gov. Christopher, tomb, 26; gift of 

Gore Hall, Harvard, 100; house, 128 
Gould, Helen M., gift of, to Wellesley 

College, 122 
Gould, Marshall S. and Thomas R., statue 

of Bridge by, 105 
Gould, Thomas R. , statues by : (with Mar- 
shall S. Gould) Bridge (Cambridge), 105; 

Hancock (Lexington), 15s ; Andrew, 167 
Governor Gore house, Waltham, 128 
Governor Hutchinson Field, Milton, 151 
Governor's Alley (Province Street), 52 
Grammar school, Boston, first, 60 
Granary, the town, 30 
Granary Burying Ground, 8, 25, 26 
Grand Lodge, of Massachusetts, 35 : of 

the Province, first, 55 
Granite Temple, Quincy, 13s 
Gray, Francis C, gift of Grays Hall to 

Harvard, 103 
Gray, Judge Horace, house, 70 
Great Blue Hill Observatory, 133 
Great Cove, 4, 10 
Great Elm, Boston Common, 32 
Great Fire of 171 1, 6, S ; of 1760, 7; of 

1S72. 53, 87 
Great Head, \\ inthrop, 140 
" Great House," Charlestown, 66 
Greater Boston, 3 



INDEX 



>S3 



Green, Dr. Samuel A., qih 
Green Dragon Tavern, site, 55 
(ireen Lane (now Salem Street), 56 
Greenough, Richard, statue of Franklin 

by, 48 ; statue of Winthrop by, 108 ; 

Bunker Hill Monument devised by, 67 
Greenwood, Francis W. P., grave, 62 
Griffin's Wharf, scene of Boston Tea 

Party, 54 
Griffith, Vincent C, architect, 77 
Grover's Cliff, Winthrop, 140 
Grundmann Studios, 88 

Hale, Edward Everett, birthplace, 25 ; 

homes, 47, 96; at Latin School, 48; 

statue, 76; pulpit, 89 
Hale, Nathan, 47 
Hamilton, Alexander, statue, 78 
Hamilton Place, 30 
Hancock, Ebenezer, 56 
Hancock, Gov. John, 13; store, 15, 17; 

tomb, 26, 27, 28; monument to, 28; 

mansion, 37-39, 47 ; at Latin School, 48 ; 

supposed house of, at Point Shirley, 139; 

at Lexington, 155; statue, 155 
Hancock, Lydia, 39 
Hancock, Rev. John, grandfather of Gov. 

Hancock, tomb of, at Lexington, 155 
Hancock, Rev. John, 2d (father of Gov. 

Hancock), grave of, at Quincy, 135 
Hancock, Thomas, 39 
Hancock Avenue, 37 
Hancock-Clarke house, Lexington, 155 
Hancock estate, 40 
Hancock Hill, Milton, 133 
Hancock house, 38, 47 
Hancock monument, 28 
Hancock Row, Boston, 56 
Hancock statue, Lexington, 155 
Hancock Street, Boston, 69 ; Quincy, 136; 

Lexington, 155 
Hancock Tavern, 15 
Hancock's Wharf, 65 
Handel and Haydn Society, 90 
Harrington, Jonathan, Sr., East Lexing- 
ton, 153 
Harrington, Jonathan, fifer to the minute- 
men, Lexington, 153 
Harrington, Jonathan, aminuteman, killed 

at Lexington, 155 
Harrington houses, East Lexington, 153 ; 

Lexington, 155 
Harrison, Peter, architect, 23, 106 
Harry Elkins Widener Memorial Library, 

100 
Hart's Hill, Wakefield, 150 
Hartt, Edmund, grave, 62, 64 
Harvard, John, monument to, 66; site of 

dwelling of, 66 ; supposed place of grave, 

66; statue of, at Cambridge, 104 
Harvard Bridge, 91 h, 92, 98 
Harvard Cooperative Association, 103 
Harvard Club of Boston, 80, 91 h 
Harvard Dental School, 74, 91 f 
Harvard Library, 100 



Harvard Medical School, 74, 91 f 

Harvard Musical Association, 30, 72 

Harvard Observatory, 100, 108 

Harvard Square, 36, 98, 99 

Harvard Union, 100 

Harvard University, 99-108; gates, 100, 
101 ; Library, 100; Emerson Hall, 100; 
Sever Hall, 101 ; Appleton Chapel, 101 ; 
Fogg Art Museum, 101 ; Phillips Brooks 
House, 101 ; dormitories, 1 01-103 i Hem- 
enway Gymnasium, 103 ; Lawrence Sci- 
entific School, 103; Laboratory, 104; 
Memorial Hall, 104; Robinson Hall, 
104; Randall Hall, 104; Germanic Mu- 
seum, 104; Mineralogical Museum, 104; 
Semitic Museum, 104; Divinity Hall, 
104; Peabody Museum, 104; University 
Museum, 104; Botanical Museum, 104; 
Museum of Comparative Zoology, 104 ; 
Geological Museum, 104 ; Law School, 
104; Radcliffe College, 106; Soldiers 
Field, 1 07; Stadium, 107; boathouses, 107; 
Observatory, 108 ; Botanic Garden, 108 

Hathorne, Judge, of the " witchcraft 
court," Salem, 163 

Haven, Judge Samuel, house of, at Ded- 
ham, 138 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, customs officer, 
Boston, 11 ; the prison in the "Scarlet 
Letter," 19; scene of the " Legends of 
the Province House," 52 ; birthplace 
of, at Salem, 61 ; note from, to J. F. 
Clarke, 71 ; later homes in Salem, 163, 
164, 165 ; mementos of, at Salem, 163 ; in 
Old Manse, and the Wayside, Concord, 
157; grave, 157 

Hawthorne's Walk, Concord, 157 

Haymarket Square, 41 

Haymarket Theater, site, 34 

Healy, G. P. A., 12 

Hemenway, Augustus, gift of, to Harvard, 
103 

Hemenway, Mrs. Mary, 51, 122 

Hemenway Street, 91 

Hemlock Gorge, Newton Upper Falls, 
124; Reservation, 149 

Henchman, Daniel, bookshop of, 5 

Henry L. Pierce Building, 88 

Hibbens, Anne, 32 

Higginson, Henry L., patron of Boston 
Symphony Orchestra, 30; one of the 
donors of Harvard Union, 100 ; donor 
of Soldiers Field to Harvard, 107 

Higginson, Thomas W., 19 

High School, Lexington, 154; Milton, 133 ; 
Newtonville, 126; Salem, 166; Somer- 
ville, 144 ; Wellesley, 120 

High School of Commerce, 91 e 

High Street, Boston, the original, 5 ; Ded- 
ham, 137, 138 

Highland Park, 95 

Highland Street, 95 

Highlandville, 123 

Hillard, George S., homes, 71 

Hillside Burying Ground, Concord, 157 



[84 



[NDEX 



I [ingham . 167, 17" 

Hoar, E. R.. judge, 157: birthplace, 15 s 

Hoar, George F.,43; birthplace, 158 

Hoar, Leonard, tomb. 1 35 

lln,ir family, monuments of, at Concord, 
157; homes nt, at Concord, 158 

Hog 1 Breed's I Island, ■ 

Holbrook Mansion, Milton, 132 

Holden, Madame, gift of, to Harvard, roi 

Hollis, Thomas, gift of, to Harvard, 101 

Ilollis Street Church, 34 : united wiih 
Smith Congregational, 89 

Hollis Street Theater, 34 

Holnn-s, Oliver Wendell, quoted, 17, 29; 
memorial tablet of, in King's I hapel, 24 : 
homes, 25, 38, 47. 51, 73, y > • : memen- 
tos of, in Boston Medical Library, 01 a ; 
birthplace, 105; grave, 108 

Holmes Hall, Boston Medical Library, 91 g 

Homeopathic Hospital, 47, 93 

Hooker, Map Gen. Joseph, statue, 44 

Hooper house, Danvers, 161 

Horse (or Cow) Pond, Boston Common, 33 

Horsford, Eben N., Norse memorials by, 
108, 117, 126, 129 

Horticultural Hall, 90 

Hotels, principal, of Boston, viii 

Houdon, Jean Antoine, sculptor, 61 

Hough's Neck, 171 

Houghton Mifflin Company, publishing 
house, 45 

House of the Good Shepherd, 1 1 1 

" House of the Seven Gables," 164 

Howard Street, Salem, 164 

Howe, Julia Ward, bonus, 72, 80 

Howe, M. A. DeWolfe, home, 73 

Howe, Samuel G., grave, 108 : Perkins In- 
stitution for the Blind, developed by, 128 

Howells, William D., 71 

Howland, John, grave of, at Plymouth, 
170 

Hull, .70 

Hull. John, the "mint master," 21 ; tomb, 
27. tu 

Hull, Maj. Gen. William, grave of, at 
Newton, 125; former estate, 126 

Hull Street, origin of name. 61 

Hunnewell, H. Hollis, gifts of, to Welles- 
ley, 120 ; estate, i2r 

Hunt, William M., Memorial Library, 
.|i n 

Huntington Avenue, -(. 7;. 87,91, 111 

Huntington Avenue Station, 81 

Huntington Hall, 89 

Hutchinson, .Anne, 50 

Hutchinson, Gov. Thomas, birthplace, 58, 
59; country seat of, in Milton, [31 

Hutchinson tomb (Copp's Hill), desecra- 
tion of, 63 

Hyde Park District, 2, 97 

Important points of interest in Boston, 

'75 

Independence Monument (first), ;: 
Indian of old Province House, 52, ,1 <. 



Indian Bible, Eliot's, 

Information l'.ureaus at railroad stations, 
vii 

[ngersoll family, home of, at Salem, 164 

Institute of Technology, the Massachu- 
setts, 8j : building: 

Institution Hill, Newton, 12; 

Isabella Stuart Gardner Museum, 91 1:, 1 1 1 

Jack, John, slave, Concord 

Jackson, Prig. Gen. Michael, grave, 125 

Jacob Sleeper I (all, v i 

Jamaica Park. See Olmsted Park 

Jamaica Plain, 97, 111, 14'' 

Jamaica way. See < > busted Park 

Jeffries, B. Joy, 72 

Jeffries Point, East Boston, 139 

Jerusalem Road, Cohasset, ti 7 

Jewett, Sarah Orne, home, 73 

Johnson, Ellen C, memorial to, mi 

Johnson, Isaac, colonist, 1 

Joy Street (formerly Belknap Street), 69 

Judson, Adoniram, grave, 171 

Julien, M., grave, 34 

Keayne, Capt. Robert, site of house of, 5 ; 

will, 10 
Keith's Theater, 34 
Keinble, Fanny, 25 
Reyes, Judge, historic house of Concord, 

Kidd, Capt., in Colonial prison, 19 
Kidder, Henry P., estate of, at Milton, 132 
Kilby Street, origin of name, 7 
Kimball, Moses, 21, 94 
King, Rev. Thomas Starr. 34 
King (now State) Street. 7 
Kings's Beach and Lynn Shore Reserva- 
tion, 150, 160 
King's Chapel, description, 23, 24. 25, 4^ 
King's Chapel Burying Ground, 21 
Kingston, 16S 

Kitson, H. H., sculptor, 44. <ji 11, 95, 164 
Kitson, Mrs. H H.. sculptor, iji 11 
Knox, Henry, bookshop of, 5, [3, 95 
Kraus, Robert, sculptor, 33 

La Farge, John, decorations by, 86 
Lafayette, the Marquis de, 35, 43, '.7; in 

Salem. 16] 
Lafayette Mall, 34 b 
Lafresnaye Collection, Art Museum, 
Lake, Capt. Thomas. 63 
Lamb Tavern, 3 | 
Lander, Gen. F. \\\. grave, 166 
Langdon, Samuel, at Latin School, 48 
I, isell Seminary, 120 
Lathrop, Rev. John, minister of Old Ninth 

Church, grave, 2<>: site nt dwelling, 58 
Latin School, Boston. See Public Latin 

School 
Latin School, Cambridge, 99; Roxbury, 

96 ; Salem, 166 
Lawrence. Abbott, former residence. 45; 

gift of, to Harvard, 104 



INDEX 



i85 



Lawrence schoolhouse, South Boston, 95 

Lee, Col. Jeremiah, at Black Horse 
Tavern, 15J 

Lee, Gen. Charles, headquarters, 144 

Lee, Henry, 51 ; estate of, at Brookline, 
113 

Lee, Jesse, grave, 62 

Lee, Thomas, gifts of, to city, 76, 78 

Leslie, Lieut. Col., at Salem Bridge, 165 

Leverett, Gov. John, site of house, 6 ; 
tomb, 23 

Leverett, John (president of Harvard), at 
Latin School, 48 

Leverett Park. See Olmsted Park 

Leverett's Lane, 4 

Lewis, Thomas, 63 

Lewis's Wharf, 64, 65 

Lexington, 154, 155 ; arms captured at, 44 ; 
routes to, 152; map, 154; Lexington 
Green, 154 

Lexington Street, Lexington, 156 

Leyden Stieet, Plymouth, 170 

Liberator, first offices, 53 

Liberty Tree, 34 

Liberty Tree Tavern, Boston, 35 

Life Saving Station, United States, 95 

Lind, Jenny, in Boston, 71 

Lodge, Henry Cabot, former Boston home, 
70; at Nahant, 159 

Long, John D., Hingham home, 167 

" Long Path," Holmes's, Boston Com- 
mon, 39 

Long Wharf, 10 

Longfellow, A. W., architect, 101 

Longfellow, Alice, 107 

Longfellow, H. W., 71 ; house of, at Gam- 
bridge, 107; grave, 108 

Longfellow house, Cambridge, 107 

Longwood Avenue, 91 e, hi 

Loring, Judge, Winthrop estate, 140 

Louis Philippe in Boston, 15 

Louisburg Square, 70, 71 ; Blaxton's his- 
toric spring, 70, 71 

Love Lane (now Tileston Street), 60 

Lovell, John, master Latin .School, 14 

Lowell, Augustus, estate of, at Brookline, 
"3 

Lowell, James Russell, 33, 37, 51 : home 
of, at Cambridge, 107 ; grave, 108 

Lowell, John, Jr., founder of Lowell 
Institute, 89 

Lowell, Judge John, Winthrop estate, 140 

Lowell, Percival, house, 72 

Lowell, Rev. Charles, pulpit, 74; grave, 
108 

Lowell house, Cambridge, 107 

Lowell Institute, 89 

Lowell School of Practical Design, 89 

Lowell Street, Concord, 158 

Lunt, George, house, 72 

Lyman, Arthur T., 147 

Lyman, Theodore, estate of, at Brookline, 
113 

Lynde, Benjamin, 1st and 2d, graves, 163 

Lynn, 159 



T.ynn Fells Parkway, 151 
Lynn Shore Reservation, 150 
Lynn Woods, 150 
Lynnway, 151 

Mackerel Lane (now Kilby Street), 6, 7 

McKim, Charles F., architect, 37, 87, 100, 
102 

McKim, Mead & White, architects, 85, 100 

MacMonnies, Frederick, sculptor, 82 

Magazine Street, Cambridge, 99 

Main Guardhouse (1768-1770), 5 

Main Street, Medford, 145 

Majestic Theater, 34 

Malcom, Capt. Daniel, gravestone, 63 

Mall Street, Salem, 164 

Manchester-by-the-Sea, 161 

Mann, Horace, statue, 41 

Manual Training School, Cambridge, 99 

Marblehead, 160 

Marblehead Neck, 160 

Marine Biological Laboratory, Woods 
Hole, 173 

Marine Hospital, Chelsea, 143 

Marine Park, South Boston, 34 a, 95, in, 
147 

Marine Park Aquarium, 34 a, 95 

Market Street (afterward Cornhill), 16 

Marshall Fowle house, Watertown, 128 

Marshall's Lane (now Street), 55, 56 

Marshfield, 168 

Masconomo House, Manchester-by-the- 
Sea, 161 

Mason, Dr. Lowell, 29 

Masonic Temple, 35 

Massachusetts Avenue, extent of, 75 ; 91 h ; 
in Arlington, 152, 153 

Massachusetts Charitable Eye and Ear 
Infirmary. See Eye and Ear Infirmary 

Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Asso- 
ciation, 81, 90 

Massachusetts Civic League, 69 

Massachusetts College of Pharmacy. See 
College of Pharmacy 

Massachusetts General Hospital, 73, 74 

Massachusetts Historical Society, 16, 17; 
founder, 26, 52 ; building; 91 g 

Massachusetts Homeopathic Hospital. 
See Homeopathic Hospital 

Massachusetts Horticultural Society. See 
Horticultural Hall 

Massachusetts Institute of Technology. 
See Institute of Technology 

Massachusetts Normal Art School. See 
Normal Art School 

Massachusetts Sfiy, 56 

Massacre of 1770. See Boston Massacre 

Mather, Cotton, at Latin School, 48, 
minister of the Old North Church, 58 : 
tomb, 62, 88; 92 

Mather, Increase, site of house of, at North 
Square, 57 ; Hanover Street house, 60 ; 
tomb, 62, 142 

Mather, Mrs. Increase, grave of, in Brook- 
line, 112 



1 86 



INDEX 



Mather, Nathaniel, grave of, in Salem, 163 
Mather, Richard, tomb of, in Dorchester, 

97 
Mather, Rev. Samuel, house, 59 ; tomb, 

62 
Mather-Eliot house, 60 
Mathers, Church of the, 58 
Mattapan, 134 

Matthews, Nathan, gift of, to Harvard, 103 
Matthews, Nathan, Jr., 36 
Maugus Hill, Wellesley, 120 
Maverick, Samuel, fortified house of, 94, 

'43 
Mayflower Club, 45 
Mead, Edwin 1)., 51 
Mechanics' Building, 90 
Medford, 145 

Meetinghouse Hill, Dorchester, 97 
Memorial Fountain (Dr. George T. An- 

gell), 53 ; (Ellen C. Johnson). .)i 
Memorial Hall, Cambridge, 49 ; Dedham, 

137 ; Lexington, 155 
Menotomy, early name of Arlington, 152 ; 

" Menotomy," statue, 153 
Merchants' Exchange, n 
Merchants Row, 7 
" Merrymount," 136 
Merwin, Henry C, house, 72 
Metropolitan District, cities and towns 

in, 98 
Metropolitan Parks System, 3, 148-151, 

160 
Metropolitan Sewerage District, 3 
Metropolitan Water Board, 3, 117 
Metropolitan Water District, 3 
Meyer, George von L., gift of, to Har- 
vard, 10 1 
Middlesex Fells, 141, 145, 149 
Middlesex Fells Parkway, 145, 151 
Military Company of Massachusetts, first, 

5 

Milk Street, 52, 53 

Mill Bridge, 56 

Mill Creek (now Blackstone Street), 56 

Mill Pond, filling, 41, 51, 56 

Mill Street, Salem, 166 

Mills, Charles*^., painter, 94 

Milmore, Martin, monuments by: in Bos- 
ton, 32; Charlestown, 65 ; Mt. Auburn, 
108; statues by : in Boston, 78 ; Lexing- 
ton, 155 ; tomb, 97 

Milton, 130-134 

Milton Academy, 133 

Milton Churches, 133 

Milton Lower Mills, 130 

Minuteman statues: Lexington, 155 ; Con- 
cord, 158 

Misery Island, 160 

Monument Street, Concord, 157 

More, Richard, Mayflower passenger, 
grave of, 163 

Morse, Rev. Jedidiah, 66 

Morse, Samuel F. B., birthplace, 66 

Morse, Sidney H., sculptor, 88 

Morse Institute Library, Natick, 123 



Mm ton. Dr. W. T. <'>.. monument to, 74 

" Mother Brook," 137 

" Mother Goose," 29 

Motley, John Lothrop, at Latin School, 

48 ; boyhood home, 72 
Moulson, Lady Anne, 106 
Moulton's Point, 65 
Mt. Auburn Cemetery, 108 
Mt. Auburn Street, Cambridge, 107 
Mt. Vernon Church, 47, 92 
Mt. Vernon Street, 47, 72, 73 
Mt. Wollaston, 136 
Muddy River, 91 h, 109, hi 
Munroe's Tavern, Lexington, 154 
Murray, W. H. H., 31 
Murray's Barracks, 17 
Museum of Fine Arts. See Art Museum 
Museum School of Drawing and Painting, 

91 D 
Music Hall, old, 30, 31 
Myers, James J., 103 
Myles, Rev. Samuel, 60 
Mystic ponds, 145 
Mystic River banks, 149 
Mystic Street, Arlington, 152 

Nahant, 159 

Nantasket Beach Reservation, 148 

Napoleon willow, 64 

Natick, 123 

National Monument, Plymouth, 168 

Natural History Museum, 81 , 89 

Naval Hospital, Chelsea, 143 

Navy Yard, Charlestown, 65 

Needham, 123 

Neponset River, 134 

Neponset River banks, 14S 

Neponset River Parkway, 151 

" New Back Bay," 92 

New Brick (afterward Cockerel) Church, 

58 
New England Children's Hospital, 91 f 
New England Conservatory of Music, 90 
New England Historic Genealogical So- 

cietv, 47 
New Old South Church, 87 
Newman, Robert, site of home, 61 
Newspaper Row, 52 
Newton Boat Club, 116 
Newton Boulevard, 115, 116, 120 
Newton Cemetery, 125 
Newton Center burying ground, 125 
Newton Club, 126 
Newton Highlands, 125 
Newton Hospital, 120 
Newton Lower Falls, 117, 120 
Newton Theological Institution, 125 
Newton Upper Falls, 124 
Newtons, the, 115; 116—119, 124-126 
Nonantum, irq; present village, 126 
Nook's Hill, South Boston, 95 
Normal Art School, 89 
Norse Memorials. See Horsford 
North Battery (Battery Wharf), 10, 64 
North Bridge, Salem, 165 



INDEX 



187 



North Cambridge tablets, 152 

North Church. See Old North Church 

North Cove, 41 

North End, 3, 4, 54-65; beach, 147 

North End Bathhouse, 60 

North End Branch Library, 60 

North End (afterward the Eliot) School, 57 

North Grove Street, 74 

North Shore, 159-166 

North Square, 57, 58 

North Station, Boston, vi, vii, 35, 36 

North Street, 57 

Norumhega Park, 115, 116 

Norumbega Tower, 117 

Nottingham, hotel, go 

Nourse, Rebecca, witchcraft victim, 161 

Ocean Spray, 139 

" Old Corner Bookstore," 49 

Old Court House, 18, 19, 48 

Old Manse, Concord, 157 

Old North Bridge, Concord, 157, 158 

Old North Church, 58, 61, 92 

Old Powder House, Somerville, 144 

Old Ship Church, Hingham, 167 

Old South Church. See New Old South 

Church 
Old South Meetinghouse, 50, 51, 87 
Old State House, 4, 5, 8, 9 
Old stone monument, Lexington, 155 
Old Town Dock, 15 
" Oldtown Folks," scene of H. B. Stowe's, 

123 
Olmsted, Frederick Law, park named for, 

1 11 ; home, 112 
Olmsted Park, m, 113, 146 
Orchard House, Concord, 156 
O'Reilly, John Boyle, monument to, 91 G 
Orient Heights, 141 
Orne, Col. Azor, at Black Horse Tavern, 

152 
Otis, James, 7 ; in Faneuil Hall, 14: tomb, 

26, 27; picture representing, 42 ; statue, 

108 
Otis Street, Milton, 132 
Oxenbridge, Rev. John, tomb, 22 
Oxford, hotel, 81, 90 

Paine, Robert Treat, 13 ; portrait, 13 ; 

tomb, 26 ; at Latin School, 48 ■ 
Palfrey, John G., home, 71 
" Palisadoed " fort, first, Charlestown, 66 
Parade Ground, Boston Common, 33 
Park Riding School, 91 h 
Park Street, vi, 35, 44, 45 
Park Street Church, 29, 30 
Park Theater, 34 
Parker, Capt. John, of the Lexington 

minutemen, 44, 155 
Parker, Theodore, indicted, 19; pulpit, 

31, 44; statue, 96; birthplace, 156 
Parker House, 25, 48 
Parkman, Dr. George, 33 b, 74 
Parkman, Francis, 12; houses, 72, 78; 

memorial, 146 



Parkman, George F., gift of, for Common 
and park benefit, 33 a ; sketch of, 33 b 

Parkman, Samuel, 12, 13 

Parks. See Public Parks 

Parkways, 151 

Parsons, Dr. T. W., house, 72 

Peabody, 161 

Peabody, Rev. A. P., sometime home of, 
100 

Peabody, George, 161 

Peabody, Dr. Nathaniel, house of, at 
Salem, 163 

Peabody, Oliver W., estate of, at Milton, 
132 

Peabody, Sophia, 71, 163 

Peabody Academy of Science, Salem, 161, 
162 

Peabody Institute, Peabody, 161 

Peabody Museum, Harvard, 104 

Pearl Street, 46, 53 

Pelham, Penelope, 21 

Pemberton Square, 20, 21 

Percy, Lord, 39, 144; at Lexington, 154 

Perkins, Thomas Handasyd, 26 

Perkins Institution for the Blind, 128 

Peter Bent Brigham Hospital, 91 f 

Phillips, Mayor John, 26 

Phillips, Wendell, 13; first antislavery 
speech of, 14 ; indicted, 19, 27 ; birth- 
place, 37, 69 ; grave, 132 

Phillips Brooks House, Harv. Univ., 101 

Phillips Brooks Memorial, 87 

Phipps, Spencer, 15 

Phipps Street, Charlestown, burying 
ground, 65, 66 

Phips, Sir William, 64 

Pickering, John, Salem, 166 

Pickering house, Salem, 161, 166 

Pierpont, Rev. John, 34 

Pilgrim documents, Plymouth, 169 

Pilgrim Hall, 46 

Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, 169 

Pillar of Liberty, Dedham, 138 

Pillory, 4 

Pinckney Street, 68, 71, 73 

Pitcairn, Major, 57, 61, 155, 156 

" Pitt's Head," Dedham," 138 

Pleasant Street, Arlington, tablet, 153 

Plummer Hall, Salem, 162 

Plymouth, 167, 168-170 

Point of Pines, 141 

Point Shirley, 139 

Pormont, Philemon, 4S 

Post Office, 52 

Posl Office Square, 53 

Powderhorn Hill, Chelsea, 142 

Powers, Hiram, statue by, 41, 86 

Pratt, Bela L., sculptor, 42, 76, 82 

Pratt mansion, Chelsea, relic, 142 
Prescott, Col. William, statue, 66 
Prescott, William H., tomb, 35; house, 
40; the "crossed swords," 91 g; birth- 
place, 162 
Prince, Rev. Thomas, tomb, 26 ; library, 
5i 



iSS 



INDEX 



Prince Street (formerly Black Horse 
Lane), 57 

Prison Lane (afterward Court Street), 19 

Prospect Hill, Sonierville, 143 ; Walt ham, 
1 iS. U'' 

Province Court, 52 

Province House, 52, 91 G, 92 

Province Street (Governor's Alley), 52 

Public Garden, 30, 74, 76; statues and 
monuments in. 76-77 ; 14'' 

Public Latin School, various sites, 48; 
distinguished pupils of, 48, 93 

Public libraries: Cambridge, 99; Brook- 
line, 114: Wellesley, 120; Watertown, 
128 ; Milton. 133: Quincy, 135,; Somer- 
ville, 144 : Maiden (Converse Memorial 1, 
145; Arlington (Robbins Memorial), 
153; Lexington (Carey), 155; Concord, 
1 58 ; Salem. [66 

Public Library, Poston, first provision for, 
10 ; site of first, 34 : present, 81-85 

Public parks, 146-151 

Pudding Lain- now Devonshire Street), 5 

Puling, John, 61 

Pullen Poynt, 139 

Punch-Bowl Tavern, m 

Puritan, hotel, 91 h 

Puritan Club. 40 

Putnam, Gen. Israel, headquarters of, at 
Cambridge, 99 ; at Somerville, 143 ; birth- 
place, 1 01 

Putnam, Gen. Rufus, 7 

Puvis de Chavannes, decorations by, S2 

Quaker meetinghouse, 17 

Quakers, incarceration of, 19 ; execution, 32 

Queen Street (afterward Court St.), 16, 19 

Quincy, 2, 134-136 

Quincy, I (orothy, 135, 136 

Quincy, Edmond, tomb, 135 ; dwelling, 

136" 
Quincy. Josiah (first mayor of Quincy), 11 ; 

house, 43: statues, 49 
Quincy, Josiah, Jr. id. 1775), 135 
Quincy Historical Society, 136 
Quincy House, 17 
Quincy mansion house, Quincy, 136 
Quincy Market House, n 
Quincy shore, [48 
Quincy Street, Cambridge, 100 

Radcliffe College, 106 

Radical Club, 72 

Randi dph, 2 

Randolph, Edward, 24 

Ratcliffe, Rev. Robert, in Colonial prison, 

[9 ; rector of King's Chapel, 24 
Rawson, Edward, 20 
Read. Benjamin J'., gift to city by, 78 
Read, Nathan, Salem. [62 
Red Lion Inn, site, 5S 
Reed, Capt. James, 1 55 
Reformatory, Concord, 159 
Reid, Robert, painter, 42 
Reservoir Park, 1 15 



Revere, 2, 141, 142 

Revere, Paul. tomb. 2'', 55; North Square 

house, 57, 58; tablet in Christ Church, 

60; site of last home, 64; foundry, 64, 

131 ; at Lexington, [55 
Revere Peach, 141 : Reservation, 150 
Revere Peach Parkway. 151 
Revere House, viii 
Revolutionary soldiers' graves, Newton, 

120 
Richardson, H. H., architect, S6, 101, 104, 

M5 

Ridge Hill Farm, 121 

Rimmer, I >r. William, statue by, 78 

Rindge, Frederick H., gifts of, to Cam- 
bridge, 99 

Rising Sun Tavern, 131 

Riverbank, 73, 92, 146 

Riverside, 116 

Riverside Avenue, Medford, 145 

Riverside Recreation Ground, 116 

Riverw ay, in, 146 

Robbins Memorial Library, Arlington, 153 

Robbins Memorial Town Hall, Arlington, 

153 
Robert Pent Hrigham Hospital, 91 f 
Rockport, [6] 

Rogers, Randall, statue by, 108 
Rogers, William P., 88 
Rogers Building, Inst, of Tech., 88, 89 
Rogers Building, Washington Street, 5 
Rogers Park, 148 
Ropes, John C, house, 72 
Rowe's Wharf, 139, 171 
Roxbury District, 1, 2, 3, 95, 96, 146, 147 
Roxbury Latin School, 96 
Royal Customhouse, site, 7 
Royal Exchange Lane (now Exchange 

Street 1, 4 
Royal Exchange Tavern, site, 7 
Royall mansion house, Medford, 145 
Ruck house, Salem, 166 
Rumford, Count (Benjamin Thompson), 

5" 
Rumney Marsh, 139 

Russell, Jason, house of, at Arlington, 153 
Russell estate, Milton, 131 

St. Andrews Lodge, 55 

St. Botolph Church, Poston, Eng.,giftof, 

to Trinity Church, 86 
St. Botolph Club, 78 
St. Botolph Street, 89 
St. Gaudens, Augustus, sculpture by, 37, 

82, 87 
St. Gaudens, Louis, sculpture by, 82 
St. James Theater, 90 
St. John Theological Seminary, its 
St. Margaret's Hospital, 71 
St. Paul's Cathedral, 35 
Salem. 1; points of interest, 160, 161; 

itinerary, 162-166 
Salem Street. 56 
Sanborn. Frank ]',., house of, at Concord, 

,58 



INDEX 



189 



Sandham, Henry, painting by, 155 

Sargent, Charles S., estate of, at Brook- 
line, 112 

Sargent, John S., paintings by, 82 

Sargent, Rev. John T., house, 72 

Saugus, 159 

Savage, Maj. Thomas, tomb, 23 

Schlesinger estate, Brookline, 113 

School of Philosophy, Concord, 156 

School Street, 48 

Scituate, 167 

Scollay Square, vii, 36 

Second Church, 58, 92 

Second Parish Church, Dorchester, 130 

Second Regiment, M. V. M., 82 

Second Universalist Church, 94 

Senate, the Little, 14 

Sergeant, Peter, 52 

Sever, Mrs. Anne E. P., gift of, to Har- 
vard, 101 

Sewall, Chief Justice Samuel, diarist, 21 ; 
tomb, 26; "confession of contrition," 
52 ; 56, 61 

Shadrach, slave, 19 

Shattuck, Samuel, and "The King's Mis- 
sive," 20 

Shaw, estate of, at Wellesley, 121 

Shaw, Judge Lemuel, house, 69 

Shaw, Col. Robert G., Memorial, 37 

Shaw, Maj. Samuel, monument to, 63 

Shawmutt, meaning of, 1 

Sheafe, Jacob, tomb, 23 

Shepard Memorial Church, Cambridge, 

5* 

Shirley, Gov. William, 25 

Shopping district, 35 

Shrimpton's Lane, 4 

Shubert Theater, 34 

Shute, Gov. Samuel, 25 

Silver Lake, Nonantum, 126 

Simmons, Edward, paintings by, 42 

Simmons, John, founder Simmons Col- 
lege, 91 E 

Simmons College, 91 e, hi 

Sims, Thomas, slave, 19 

Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, Concord, 157 

Smibert, John, 13 ; portraits by, 38 

Smith, Joseph Lindon, painter, 83, gr a 

Smith, Rev. Samuel F., author of "Amer- 
ica," 29; birthplace, 61 

Smith Court, antislavery landmark in, 69 

Social Service Library, 47 

Soldiers' Home, Chelsea, 142 

Soldiers' Monuments : Boston Common, 
32, 65; Charlestown, 65; Natick, 123; 
Waltham, 127, Watertown, 128; Chel- 
sea, 143 : Concord, 157 

Somerset, hotel, 91 h 

Somerset Club, 39 

Somerset Street, 47 

Somerville, 143, 144 

Sons of Liberty, 5, 34 

South Armory, 89 

South Avenue, Weston, 117 

South Battery (Rowe's Wharf), 10 



South Boston, 2, 95, in, 147 

South Congregational Church, 89 

South End, 92 

South Shore, 167-170 

South Station, Boston, vi, vii 

Sparks, Jared, 107 

Spiritual Temple, 89 

Spring Hill, Somerville, 144 

Spring Street, Lexington, 156 

Spy Pond, 153 

Stamp Act, excitement over, 5, 14, 34, 58 

Standish, Miles, cottage and grave, 168; 

sword, 169 
Standish Monument, Duxbury, 168 
Stark, Brig. Gen. John, gifts of, to State, 

44, i45 
State House, 40-44 ; Annex, 39, 68 
State Library, 43 
State Street, 4, 5, 7 
Stebbins, Emma, statue by, 41 
Stevenson, Maj. Gen., bronze relief, 42 
Stimson, Frederick J., house of, at Ded- 

ham, 137 
Stoddard house, site, 57 
Stone, Rev. A. L., 30 
Stone, Mrs. Valeria, gift of, to Wellesley 

College, 122 
Stony Brook, 118 ; Reservation, 97, 149 
Storer collection of medical medals, 91 
Story, Judge Joseph, statue, 108; home 

of, at Salem, 164 
Story, William W., statues by, 41,66, 108 ; 

birthplace, 164 
Stoughton, Lieut. Gov. William, tomb, 

97 
Strandway, in, 147 
Strong, Gov. Caleb, 13 
Strong's Pond, 115, 119 
Stuart, Gilbert, portraits by, 13, 46, 166; 

grave, 34 
Stuart, Jane, copy of Washington portrait 

by, 166 
Subway, 31 ; Park Street station, 35; map 

of route, 36 
Subway, Cambridge, 98, 109 
"Suffolk Resolves" house, Milton, 130, 

137 
Sullivan, Gov. James, tomb, 26 
Sumner, Charles, first antislavery speech 

of, 14, 30, 41; home, 69; statues, 77, 

105 ; grave, 108 
Sumner, Gov. Increase, tomb, 26 
Svvinnertori, Dr. John, grave of, at Salem, 

163 
Symphony Hall, 90 

Taft's Hotel, Point Shirley, 139 
Takawambait, Daniel, 123 
Talleyrand in Boston, r5 
Taylor, Rev. Edward T., 59 
Tea Party Wharf, 53, 54 
Technology Club, 89 
Telegraph Hill, South Boston, 95 
Ten Hills Farm, Gov. Winthrop's, 145 
Thacher, Rear Admiral, tomb, 97 



9° 



[NDEX 



Thacher, Rev. Peter, of Milton, 132, 134 
Thacher, Rev. Peter, oration of, in 1776, 

129 ; inscription to, 132 
Thacher, Rev. Thomas, tomb, 23 
Thatcher's Island, 161 
Thayer, John E., 70 
Thayer, Nathaniel, 70 ; gift of, to Harvard, 

103 
Theaters, in Boston, viii, 34 
Theodore Parker Church, West Roxbury, 

96 
Thompson, Benjamin. See Rumford, 

Count 
Thoreau, Henry D., grave of , at Concord, 

157; house, 158; site of hut of, at 

Walden, 158 
Ticknor, George, house, 44 
Ticknor & Fields, 49 
Tileston, John, early schoolmaster, 57 
Tory Row, Cambridge, 107 
Touraine, hotel, 34 
Tower and Chime of Bells, memorial, 

Hingham, 167 
Town Dock, 4, 16 
Town Halls : Brookline, 114: Wellesley, 

120, 121; Lexington, 155. 156 
Town Hill, Charlestown, 66 
Town House, Boston, first, 8, 10; second, 

v : meeting place of . first Episcopal 

church, 24: Milton, 133 ; Salem, 1O2 
Train, Enoch, 70 
Transcendental Club, 72 
Tremont Row, 20 
Tremont Street, 20 : mall, 34 
Tremont Temple, 25 
Tremont Theater, 34 
Trimountane, 1 
Trinity Church, 86 
Trinity Place station, 81 
Trowbridge, John T. - , home of, at Arling- 
ton, 153 
Tufts College Medical and Dental School 

in Boston, 91 ; buildings on College 

Hill, 144, 145 
Turner Street, Salem. 164 
Twentieth Century Club, 69 
Twentieth Regiment, M. V. M., 82 
Twin churches, Milton, 133 

Union Boat Club, 73 

Union Club, 45 

Union Market station, 128 

Union Stone, site, 56 

Union Street, 55 

Union Street. Salem, 161, 103 

Unitarian Building, 45 

Unitarian Church, Lexington, 155 ; Con- 
cord, 1 ;'■ 

United States Arsenal, Watertown. See 
Arsenal, Watertown 

United States Naval Hospital. See Naval 
Hospital 

United States Navy Yard. See Navy 
Yard, Charlestown 

University Boathouse, Cambridge, 107 



University Club, 80 

Upham's Corner burying ground, Dor- 
chester, 97 

Upsall, Nicholas, Red Lion Inn, 5S ; 
grave, 62 

Ursuline Convent, bricks from, in Cathe- 
dral, 93 

Vane, Sir Harrv, site of house, 20; statue, 

82 
Vassal, Col. John, 21, 107 ; William, 21; 

Leonard, 136 
Vendome, hotel. So 
Vergoose, Elizabeth, 29 
Victoria, hotel, v i 
Victoria, Queen, portrait, 161 
Vigilance Committee, antislavery, 14 
Village Green, Dedham, 138 
Village Square, Brookline, 11 1, 113 
Vincent Memorial Hospital, in 
Vinland, the Norse, 117 
Vose mansion, Milton, 131, 137 

Waban Hill, Newton, 116, 119 

Waban Lake, 121 

Wadlin, Horace G., 85 

Walden Pond, Concord, 158 

Walker, Henry Oliver, paintings by, 42 

Walker Building, 88 

Walnut Street, Brookline, 112 

Walpole Street Baseball grounds, 94 

Waltham, 3, 126-128 

Waltham Street, Lexington, 155 

Waltham Watch Company, 127 

Ward, J. Q. A., sculpture by, 76 

Ward, Joshua, house of, at Salem, 162 

Ware and Van Brunt, architects, 99, 104 

Warner, Olin L., statues by, 44, 78 

Warren, Henry, too 

Warren, James, house of, at Watertown, 

129 
Warren, Dr. John, 40 
Warren, Dr. John Collins, 91 e; tablet 

erected by, 96 ; 112 
Warren, Gen. Joseph, 13; site of house, 
is : obsequies, 24 : tombs, 27, 35, 51, 55, 
97 ; statues, 67, 96: birthplace, 96, 120 
Warren, William, comedian, 21 
Warren Anatomical Museum, 91 E 
Warren Avenue Haptist Church, 94 
Warren Bridge, 6g 
Warren Street, Brookline, 112 
Washington, George, portraits, 12, 46, 
91 B, 166; statues, 41, 77: busts, 43, 61 : 
library. 40 ; in Cambridge, 103, ro6, 107; 
in Chelsea, 142'- at Munroe's Tavern, 
Lexington, 154; in Salem, 162 
Washington, Martha, 91 b, 129 
Washington, Mt., Chelsea. 142 
Washington Elm, Cambridge, 105 
Washington Monument Association, 41 
Washington Park, Chelsea, 142 
Washington Square, Salem, 104 
Washington Street, 5, 16; in Newton, 118; 
in Salem, 161, 165 



INDEX 



191 



Washington Street Tunnel, vi, 10, 36, 37 

Watch house, Plymouth, 170 

Watertown, 1, 126, 128, 129 

Waverley Oaks Reservation, 149 

Way-Ireland house, Chelsea, 142 

Wayside, The, Concord, 157 

Webster, Daniel, 14, 33 ; statue, 41 ; ora- 
tions of, at Bunker Hill Monument, 67 ; 
Marshfield home and tomb, 168 

Webster, Prof. John W., 33 b, 74 

Weld, William F., gift of, to Harvard, 103 

Welles, Samuel, 121 

Wellesley, 120-122 

Wellesley College, 122 

Wellington, Benjamin, minuteman, 153 

Wellington Hills, 3 

Wendell, Judge Oliver, tomb, 23; site of 
house, 25 

Wentworth Institute, 91 e 

West Cambridge, later Arlington, 152 

West Cedar Street, 72 

West Church, 74 

West Lynn, 159 

West Newton, 118 

West Roxbury District, 3, 96-97, 146, i47> 

I5 1 
West Roxbury Parkway, 147, 151 

Weston, 117 

Weston Bridge, 116, 117 

Westwood, 137 

Whalley, regicide, 109 

Wheelwright, Rev. John, 135 

Wheelwright & Haven, architects, 91 G, 

104 
Whipping post, 4 
Whipple, Edwin P., house, 71 
Whitefield, scene of open-air sermon by, 

io 5 
Whitney, Mrs. A. D. T., homes, 70, 131 
Whitney, Anne, statues by, 16, 79, 105; 

former home of, 70 
Whitney, Henry M., estate of, at Brook- 
line, 113 
Whittemore, Samuel, tablet of, at Arling- 
ton, 152 
Whither, John G., home of, at Danvers, 

161 
Wilbur Theater, 34 
Willard, Josiah, tomb, 26 
Willard, Rev. Samuel, tomb, 26 
Willard, Solomon, architect, 18, 29, 66, 67 
William H. Lincoln Schoolhouse, Brook- 
line, 112 



Williams, Roger, house of, at Salem, 160, 

165 
Willow Avenue, West Somefville, tablet, 

144 
Wilson, Henry, homestead, Natick, 123 
Wilson, Rev. John, first minister, 5, 6 
Winchester, 145 

Winslow, Edward, " Careswell," 168 
Winslow, John, 23 

Winslow, Rear Admiral John A., 13; 
bronze relief, 42 ; house, 96 ; tomb, 97 
Winslow family, tomb, 23 
Winter Hill, Somerville, 144 
Winthrop, 139-14 1 

Winthrop, Deane, 139; house of, 140 
Winthrop, Fitz John, 22 
Winthrop, Gov. John, first house, 1, 6; 
second house, 50; statues, 18, 19, 79, 
108; tomb, 22, 44, 51, 66, 143 ; his Ten 
Hills Farm, 145 
Winthrop, John, Jr., tomb of, 22 
Winthrop, Prof. John, tomb, 22 ; telescope 

used by, 104 
Winthrop, Margaret, 22 
Winthrop, Robert C, 113 
Winthrop, Wait Still, 22 
Winthrop Shore Reservation, 149 
Winthrop Square, Charlestown, 65 
WiswalPs Pond, Newton, 126 
Witch House, Salem, 165 
Witchcraft, documents and relics, Salem, 

165; jail of 1692, Salem, 164 
Wolcott, Gov. Roger, statue, 43 
Wood Island Park, 94, 147 
Woodbridge, Benjamin, killed in duel, 7; 

grave, 28, 32 
Woodward Tavern, Dedham, 131, 157 
Woodworth, Samuel, scene of his "Old 

Oaken Bucket," 167 
Worcester, Joseph E., in Cambridge, 

107 
Worthy lake, George, 63 
Wright Tavern, Concord, 156 
Writing School, first Free, 18; first, 60 

Yachting, off City Point, 95 
Yeaman house, Chelsea, 142 
Young Men's Christian Association Build- 
ing, 91 
Young Men's Christian Union, 35 

Zoological Garden. See Franklin Park 
Zoological Garden 



EDITORS' NOTE 

In arranging our Special Hardware edition we felt there were 
some items of interest in Boston and in connection with our Conven- 
tion which we had not covered as fully as might be desired in our 
general " guide " section. 

We have therefore added the fore matter and these few pages of 
reference and amplification. 

We also want to take this opportunity to thank all who have 
assisted in the preparation of this edition, and to the advertisers, 
whose kind co-operation have made its publication possible. 




THE NEW TECHNOLOGY 

Dedication June 14, 1916 



THE NEW TECHNOLOGY 

" The Gateway to Cambridge " is the name applied to the 
approach to this city by the Harvard Bridge over which passes 
Massachusetts Avenue. This means of approach gives to the 
traveler a general view of the new buildings of the Massachusetts 
Institute of Technology, the avenue passing between them and 
Riverbank Court. 

The dignified buildings of Technology have been the first 
movement towards the permanent surrounding of the beautiful 
water park, the Charles River Basin, by structures in keeping with 
its important public uses. 

In 1912 the Institute, long established on Boylston Street, 
Boston (pp. 88, 89) purchased fifty acres of land to the east of Massa- 
chusetts Avenue bordering the Charles River Parkway. The 
educational structures occupy that portion nearest the avenue. 
The land itself, the greater part of it, was reclaimed in the 
eighties, the flats being filled by hydraulic dredging from the river 
bottom, the first large use of the system in this vicinity. 

41 



Entering the greal courl from the Parkway the \is.ii<>r finds 
himself surrounded by the educational portion of the New Tech- 
nology. This may be described as a connected group of buildings 
clustered about the library. The central court, which opens on the 
river front, deploys into two large, though minor, courts near the 
Parkway. The visitor to the Institute will find taring him, as he 
enters the court, the library and administration building, in classic 
architecture, with a noble pillared portico and surmounted by a 
dome suggestive of that of the Pantheon. To the left of this and 
extending toward the river is the long structure devoted to Mechan- 
ical Engineering, which department occupies also the adjoining 
structure facing on the west minor court, the two other sides of this 
court being bounded by the Civil Engineering buildings, one of 
which looks out on the avenue and the other on the Parkway. 
To the right and nearest the river are the wings devoted to Ceneral 
Studies, bounding two sides of the east court, while Chemist ry 
occupies the building on the third side of this court and that along 
the great court on its east side. Physics and Electrical Engineering 
will occupy that portion of the main building between the portico 
and Chemistry, while Mining and Metallurgy are housed in an 
extension of buildings to the right along the line of the administra- 
tion group. The Library, the finest engineering collection in the 
country, is directly beneath the dome, whose " eye " furnishes 
abundant light for the great reading room. The administration 
offices are just within the great portico. 

These structures, for which the architect has selected the pi- 
laster treatment, are so well proportioned that their magnitude is 
likely to be underestimated. For a scale ol comparison it may be 
said that the Boston Public Library might be placed within the 
great central court and have room for a wide city street around it, 
between it and the buildings on either side. The laboratories, which 
occupy vast spaces within the buildings, are strictly utilitarian and 
hardly admit of popular description. In the hydraulic laboratory 
i lure are 800 feet of canals for measuring the flow of liquids and a 
-nat pump of 22,000-gallons-a -minute capacity. The steam lab- 
oratory is the best of its class in the country, while the electrical 
and chemical laboratories are fitted with the newest of modern 
devices. 

Back of the educational buildings is space for future growth, 
while along the farthest line bounding the railroad are placed the 
power house — 2,000 horse — and various smaller laboratories, 
notably one for internal combustion engines and another tor aero- 
dynamics. 

The east half of the Technology holdings in Cambridge is 
reserved for student uses. Here there is located the athletic field 
with a track said to be the best in the country. The chief feature 
of the student section is to be the Walker Memorial, an all-Technol- 
ogy student club in honor of President Francis A. Walker, who 
recognized during his term the need that existed for better ac- 
quaintance among the students. Since his death, funds have been 
contributed to a dignified memorial to this distinguished soldier- 

42 



statistician-educator. The foundations were laid in May, 1915. 
The Walker Memorial will face the Basin, will contain the great 
gymnasium, the dining-hall for the students, rooms for the under- 
graduate activities and foyers for the social intercourse of the stu- 
dents. Dormitories for the students, a new feature at Technology, 
are planned, and the first one is under construction, with a capacity 
of two hundred students. It has the novel feature of placing the 
fraternity houses in the same group of block with the ordinary dor- 
mitories. The dormitories will occupy the end of the estate farthest 
east, or down the river, and here will be the house of the president, 
a contribution of Messrs. Charles A. Stone and Edwin S. Webster 
as individuals. 

Among other structures contemplated by Technology in the 
near future is the Pratt School of Naval Architecture, which is to 
continue the frontage along Massachusetts Avenue, behind which 
will be the hall for large meetings, to take the place of Huntington 
Hall in the Rogers Building on Boylston Street. 

The Massachusetts Institute of Technology has a registration 
of practically two thousand students, and its instructing staff num- 
bers some three hundred. 




;o.-sc 



THE ^MASSACHUSETTS CHARITABLE MECHANIC ASSO- 
CIATION, MECHANICS BUILDING, BOSTON 

1795-1808 

The preliminary step which resulted in the formation of the 
" Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association " was announced 
in the Columbian Centinel for December 31, 1794, as follows: " The 
Tradesmen, Mechanics and Manufacturers of this town and vicinity, 
who keep apprentices, are desired to meet at the Green Dragon, 
on Tuesday evening next, at 6 o'clock, for the purpose of consulting 
on measures for petitioning the General Court to revise and amend 
the law respecting apprentices." There was no signature to this 
advertisement. 

There is a tradition that Paul Revere — one of the most in- 
fluential mechanics of the town, and one whom the others were 
accustomed to consult on matters that were deemed of general 

43 



interest to them as a body — was surprised on seeing the notice, 
and thought it an act of presumption in the anonymous writer to 
publish it without his knowledge. 

Meetings were held at the Green Dragon, and, on the 17th of 
January following, Paul Revere, as chairman, issued a notice in the 
Centinel calling for a meeting of the mechanics to hear a report of 
a committee that had been appointed at one of these meeting--; 
and on March 11 the newspapers contained the following: 

MEETING OF MECHANICS 

' The mechanics of the town of Boston are requested 
to meet at Concert Hall, this evening, precisely at 7 o'clock, 
for the purpose of taking into consideration and deciding 
on the report of their committee appointed on the 19th of 
January, for the purpose of drafting regulations for the pro- 
posed Association of the Mechanics of this town. 

" As the subject is of prime importance, and as the 
sentiments of everyone on the subject are desired, it is re- 
quested that a general and punctual attendance will be 
given. Those who have received the printed copies of the 
report are requested to bring them with them at the meeting. 

" Paul Revere, per order." 

No record exists of this meeting called by Revere on March 
11. But, on the 24th of March, Mr. Revere gave notice that 
" the Constitution of the Associated Mechanics of the Town of 
Boston will be ready for signing on Saturday next, at Mr. Ebenezer 
Parkin's Bookstore in Cornhill," and his is the first of the eighty- 
three names of the original members: " Paul Revere, Goldsmith." 
Each one signed his name and his trade. His son, Paul, Jr., was 
also one of the original members. 

At a meeting held at Concert Hall, April 16, these members 
proceeded to choose their officers; and Paul Revere was unanimously 
elected President, to which office he was annually chosen until 
1799, when he declined longer to hold the position. The organiza- 
tion of the Association from 1795 to 1799 was as follows: Paul 
Revere, President; Edward Tuckerman, Vice-President; Samuel 
Gore, Treasurer; John W. Folsom, Secretary; and Richard Faxon, 
Edmund Hartt, Benjamin Russell, Thomas Clement, Benjamin 
Callender, Stephen Gore and Giles Richards, Trustees. 

The organization from 1799 to 1807 was as follows: Jonathan 
llunnewell, President; Benjamin Russell, Vice-President; Francis 
Wright, Treasurer; Thomas Wells, Secretary; and Samuel Todd, 
Charles Clement, David Cobb, James Barry, John D. Howard, 
John Cotton, Ephraim Thayer, Peter Osgood and Jonathan Kil- 
ham, Trustees. 

It is worthy of note that, of the old board of officers under Paul 
Revere, but one was elected to this new board. Benjamin Russell 
was promoted from Trustee to Vice-President. It was during this 
administration that, after ten years of endeavor, the Society suc- 
ceeded in obtaining an act of incorporation as the " Massachusetts 

44 



Charitable Association," and at its first meeting after incorporation, 
May 2, 1806, to organize under the act, Paul Revere was chosen 
moderator of the meeting. A thorough organization was per- 
fected, and from these small and almost insignificant beginnings, 
it has become in its maturity, powerful and important, and today 
exercises a salutary influence on the civic, local and industrial con- 
ditions of the citv of Boston. 



THE MASTER BUILDERS' ASSOCIATION 

The Master Builders' Association of Boston, with headquarters 
and exchange rooms at 166 Devonshire St., is the most influential 
organization representing the building industries in New England. 

Its membership is carefully guarded, so that only those con- 
cerns which have established a good reputation are admitted. 

It furnishes to Owners and Architects reasonable assurance 
that work entrusted to its members will be honestly and skillfully 
performed. 

It furnishes to its members that recognition of their standing 
in the building fraternity which counts very materially in making 
them acceptable to Owners and Architects as contractors in their 
various lines. 

It acts as an agency to define proper practice in all the vary- 
ing relations of contractors to each other, to sub-contractors and to 
dealers in building material. 

Acting in conjunction with the Boston Society of Archi- 
tects, questions relating to conditions under which estimating is 
conducted, to division of contracts, to subcontracts, to requirements 
of specifications, to standardization of measurements, to quantity 
surveying, to forms of contracts, to surety bonds, casualty insurance 
and all the relations between Architects, Owners and Contractors, 
are considered and equitable practice defined. 

IT PERFORMS A MOST VALUABLE SERVICE TO ITS 
MEMBERS IN DEFENDING THEM BY LEGAL MEASURES 
AND OTHERWISE AGAINST ANY ENCROACHMENT UPON 
THEIR RIGHTS, BY WHOMSOEVER ATTEMPTED 

It builds up from year to year a body of knowledge and ex- 
perience in all matters relating to building work, which is at the 
command of its members at all times for their defense and ad- 
vancement. 

It provides headquarters and exchange rooms equipped with 
all modern conveniences for the transaction of business, forming a 
necessary and convenient rendezvous for personal meetings, con- 
ferences and general utility invaluable to all whether their business 
be entirely local or scattered in various parts of New England. 
For many it is all the office they require, and for all it is the most 
economic of opportunities for the establishment of those personal 
relations which cannot be effected by telephone, but upon which 
so much depends for safety and satisfaction in the conduct of 
business. 

45 



I . S. CUSTOM HOUSE 
STATE AND INDIA STREETS 




Copyright by Dadmcn 



The new Custom House (p. LI), com 
pleted and occupied in January, 1915, is 
the tallest building in New England. It 
consists of a tower about 60 ft. x 70 ft. on 

top of the original Custom House, which 
is of Doric architecture. The apex of the 
tower is about 495 feet, and the balcony, 
on the 25th floor, is about 400 feet above 
the sidewalk. This balcony is on all four 
sides of the building, and from it can be 
obtained a splendid view of the city, harbor 
and surrounding country. 

The clock, situated on the 23rd lloor, 
has four dials, each 21 ft. in. in diameter. 
It is operated by electric motors and 
illuminated at night . 

The building i^ constructed of steel and 
granite. The floors are a composition ot 
cement and magnesia, and the inside 
finish is steel mahogany. 

There are thirty lloor-, twenty-five of 
which are- occupied by Government offi- 
cials, the upper fixe being used for storage 
purposes. 

A beautiful feature is the marble dome 
of the original building, seen from the 
main floor. 

The building cost $1,800,000, and is 
open for business from '.» A.M. to 4.'M) 
P.M. 



If, 





THE BOSTON CITY CLUB 

The Boston City Club was founded in 1906. The stated pur- 
pose of the club is to bring together in a social way, men interested 
in the welfare of the City of Boston, to provide a club house where 
men may meet informally every day and to arrange frequent meet- 
ings at which prominent speakers may be heard and questions, of 
civic interest discussed. 

The requisite for membership is good character, and the club 
is non-political, non-racial and non-sectarian. Men in all trades, 
professions and walks of life are members. The membership is 
limited, 6,300 resident and 500 non-resident, which limit has been 
reached, and at present there is a waiting list of several hundred 
applicants. 

The club has become the central meeting place in the city, a 
forum where questions of civic purport relating to city, state and 
nation are discussed. The club arranges every Thursday night 
from October to May some function of interest to members, and 
the club does not commit itself to any project, but provides the 
arguments pro and con. 

The club occupies its own quarters, representing an investment 
of practically a million dollars, financed within the membership, this 
building consisting of 12 stories above the ground, situated at the 
corner of Ashburton Place and Somerset Street, where every facility 
necessary to club life is maintained. 



47 



To Hardware Dealers of America: 

Make Your Plans for 1 920 Now! 

'Follow the Others' 



TO 



The Pilgrim 
Tercentenary 
Celebration 

All the world is invited; but it 
will not be a "World's Fair" 

A celebration of the Landing of the Plym- 
outh Pilgrims unparalleled in the 
history of celebrations in America 

Of historical, educational, industrial, com- 
mercial and patriotic nature 

All Roads will Lead to the Hub in 1920 



{When in Boston Read the Boston Globe) 
48 



PLATE I. 



jU uu uu uu uu 

BERKELEY 




PLATE II. 




PLATE III. 




gj,t*n Revcrr BracJi 

& Lvnrt R ft Ferry 



Circles I Mile Radius 
5cdle-/200 ft. m ah inch . 

EXPLANATION. 

Steam Railroads 

Electric ' ' r—— » 
^ Carriage ffoads 



Boston Prco'r S"fi ; r ■<? V /9ff3 by &>/?, H ft-j/,, fr d i, , ffc. 



PLATE IV. 




PLATE V. 




PLATE V 




PLATE VII. 



'{^~^~ Nantasket 



SCALE OF MILLS, 



EKPLANATfOH 
Steam Railroads 

Electric " j_ 
Carriage Roads ■ 




SOWHStiOKCopyrifihtlM) 'by^gaVWtlAerlCc 



PLATE VIII. 



NEW ENGKLlAJSTD 
STATES 




I O I 6 (One hundred years of service) 1916 

Booth 112 



KMttR 



Frye, Phipps 
Company 

HARDWARE and CUTLERY 

21 to 27 PEARL STREET 

BOSTON 



New England Selling Agents for 

The Simmons Hardware Co. 



KBM 
KVMK 



Keen Kutter 



^.C.SlMMo^ 



^r Tools and Cutlery _ 



49 



ALL GRADES of WIRE CLOTH MADE of ALL KINDS of WIRE 

The 

New Jersey 

Wire Cloth 

Company 

93-95 PEARL ST., BOSTON, MASS. 



MANUFACTURERS 

WIRE CLOTH 
WIRE NETTING 
WIRE FENCING 
WIRE SCREENING 
WIRE WORK 



Largest and Most Comprehensive Stock in Boston 

WORKS: 
ROEBLING, NEW JERSEY PHILADELPHIA, PA. 

Offices and Stores : 

210 FULTON STREET 627 MARKET STREET 

NEW YORK PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



,'){) 



TRIMO TOOLS 



OFFICIAL 

A WAR D 
RIBBON 




PANAMA PACIFIC 

INTERNATIONAL 

EXPOSITION 

SAN FRANCISCO 

1915 




ALL STEEL MONKEY WRENCH 

NUT WITH NUT GUARDS|| 



PREStDENTOFTHE SUPERIOR JURY 
DIRECTOR OF EXHIBITS 



SECTY Of THE INTERNATIONAL 
AWARD SYSTEM 

MEDAL 
HONOR 

DEPARTMENT OF 

MANUFACTURES AND 
VARIED INDUSTRIES 




WITH FLAT-LINK OR CABLE CHAIN 

TRIMO CHAIN WRENCH 




TRIMO PIPE CUTTER 

DE sure to ask for the Trimo Wrenches, 
both Pipe and Monkey. They 
are equipped with Nut Guards that 
prevent the accidental turning of the 
adjusting nut in close quarters, and 
in the principal size with Steel Frames 
that will not break. 



Trimont ManTg Co., RC E RY 



51 



Wonder-Mist 
World's Standard Polish 

Cleans and Polishes all finished surfaces. Removes mud, 
dust, dirt, grease and road-oil from your automobile without the 
use of water and at less cost. Wonder-Mist is the original spray polish. 
Saves time, labor and expense. Spray on — wipe off — that's all. 



For 
Household 

Furniture 
Pianos 
Linoleum 
Leather 




For 
Automobiles 
Tops 

Upholstery 
Windshields 



To DEALERS and JOBBERS.— Get quick profits by 
selling Wonder- Mist. Inquire at our Boston office, 1 4 Federal St., 
for our proposition to dealers and our sales help campaign. 



Wonder-Mist Company 



BOSTON 



NEW YORK 



CHICAGO 



B1GELOW & DOWSE CO. * „ 

New England Distributors 




52 



Hardware, Cutlery, Automobile 
Tires and Accessories 



distributors of : 



Congress Tires 

Viking Spark Plugs 

Ru-Ber-Oid Roofing 

New York Pocket Knives 

Royal and Cyclone Fencing 

New York Wire Cloth 

F. & N. Lawn Mowers 



BIGELOW & DOWSE CO. 

229 FRANKLIN ST., BOSTON, MASS. 



53 



A PAINT for EVERY PURPOSE 

MAKERS OF 

Good Paints for over Seventy Years 



John Bnggs & Company 

INCORPORATED 

PAINT AND PUTTY MAKERS 
43-47 Purchase Street - - Boston, Mass. 



THE MINNESOTA 

"Hardware Mutual" 

THE PIONEER 

Seventeen Successful Years 

Losses paid $919,165.01 

Dividends paid 1,226,966.04 

Total Admitted Assets 61 0,000.00 

Total Liabilities 1 46,400.00 

NET SURPLUS 463,600.00 

FOR NINE CONSECUTIVE YEARS, HALF THE PRE- 
MIUMS HAVE BEEN RETURNED TO "ASSURED" 

See that your policies are ' 'Made in Minnesota 
For "Association" Hardware Merchants Only 

CHAS. F. LADNER, M. S. MATHEWS, 

President Secretary 

Metropolitan Life Building, Minneapolis, Minn. 



54 



(YALE) 



The Yale Triplex Block is the utmost of quality and safety. 
Years of knowledge and experience have dictated the material and 
methods used in this and in all Yale hoisting equipment. 



This product is backed by a broad gauge policy 
of dealer distribution based on service to the user. 




For sale by Mill Supply houses. 

New catalog now ready. 

Put your hoisting problems up to us. 



The Yale&Towne Manufacturing Co. 

9 East Fortieth Street, New York, N. Y. 



Trade 

O. K. 

Mark 

CUTTERS 




1 0-Inch 



1 4-Inch 



Clipper Cut Jaws 

for 3- 16-in. annealed bolts in the thread or 3-1 6-in. soft rivets. 

Center Cut Jaws 

for 3- 16-in. soft rods. 
Clipper Cut Jaws 

for 1 -4-in. annealed bolts in the thread, or 1 -4-in. soft rivets. 

Center Cut Jaws 

for 1 -4-in. soft rods 



As efficient proportionately as the larger sizes 
Insulated Handles if Desired 

H. K. PORTER, ™ TT 

"Easy," "New Easy" and Allen Randall Bolt Clippers 



00 



5TAND5 THE 



TEST DF TIME 




NEW ENGLAND'S 
BE5T PAINT 

100' t Pure 

Made of 

White Lead 

White Zinc and 

Pure Linseed Oil 




BUNKER HILL 
VARNISHES 



Superior 
Decorative 

and 
Preservative 

Finishes 



Write for Color Card and Agency Proposition 

New England Oil, Paint & Varnish Co. 

BOSTON, MASS., U. S. A. 



Wilson Bohannan 

Incorporated 
Manufacturers of 

Bronze Metal Spring Pad- 
locks, Combination Drawer 
and Chest Locks, Key 
Drawer and Chest Locks, 
Mortise and Rim Store 
Door Locks, Mortise and 
Rim Night Latches, Key 
Blanks, Etc. 

758-768 LEXINGTON AVENUE 
BROOKLYN, N. Y. 



Daniel Frank & V^o. 



IMPORTERS 

and 

DEALERS 
in 

Fine Cigars, Tobaccos 
and Cigarettes 



81 Milk Street, Boston, Mass. 



56 



Every New England Hardware Dealer Wants 

to give his customers goods of the highest quality consistent with a 
fair price. 

When you sell your customers rope, sell them the rope that gives 
satisfaction, — the rope that gives them a dollar's worth of service 
for every dollar of cost, — sell them reliable 

OLUMBIAN 

Manila Rope 

Columbian Manila and Columbian Sisal Rope are both made from 
the finest grades of tough, strong fibre. They will give your cus- 
tomers sturdy and satisfactory service. 

DISTRIBUTORS 

Chandler & Farquhar Company 

"The New England Tool and Supply Depot" 
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 




When in a HURRY for 

Sheathing Paper 
Tarred Felt 
Rubber Roofing 
Asphalt Shingles 

SEND YOUR ORDER TO 

CHAPMAN & SODEN 

1 50 Oliver St., Boston, Mass. 



GOODS SHIPPED THE DA Y 
ORDER IS RECEIVED 



Beaver Brand Materials 



Galvanized and Black Sheet 

Sheet Copper 

Zinc 

Tinplates 

Roofing Plates 

Galvanized Conductors 

Gutters, etc. 



AVERY and SAUL 

207 Congress Street 
Boston, Mass. 

Telephone, Fort Hill 3791 



57 



Worcester Machine Screw Co 



WORCESTER, MASS. 



Screw Machine Products 



CAP SCREWS 
SET SCREWS 
MACHINE SCREWS 
SPECIAL PARTS 



MADE AS WELL AS UP-TO-DATE EQUIPMENT 
AND OVER 50 YEARS' EXPERIENCE CAN PRODUCE 



f,x 



Chandler & Farquhar Co. 

"THE NEW ENGLAND TOOL AND SUPPLY DEPOT" 



Members of 
New England Hardware Dealers' Association 

Members of 
National Machinery and Supply Dealers' Association 

32-38 Federal Street 
419-425 Atlantic Ave. 
BOSTON, MASS. 





MACHINE TOOLS 

MACHINISTS' SUPPLIES 

GENERAL HARDWARE 



Our lines are quite different from those regularly 
carried in "hardware stores." 

We specialize in the machine tools and supplies for 
machine shops, large manufacturing plants, garages, etc. 

We sell lathes, planers, shapers, drills, grinders, etc., 
at our Machine Tool Store at 419-425 Atlantic Ave. 

We sell small tools, chucks, drills, mills, taps, dies, 
reamers, brass, copper, German silver, aluminum, grind- 
ing wheels, engineering specialties, etc., at our Supply 
Store at 32-38 Federal Street. 



59 



Mr. Dealer:— 

Do you wish to increase your varnish profits? 

Do you wish to have more and better satisfied 
customers? If so visit — 

SPACE 41 

Norfolk Varnish Company 

(THE PROFITABLE LINE) 

NORFOLK DOWNS, MASS. 



See them at Booth No. 101, Hardware Show 
Two Fast-Selling Specialties 
Sold by the Hardware Trade 

CAMPBELL'S VARNISH STAIN 

FOR 

Floors — Furniture — Interior Surfaces 

All Colors — % Pints to Gallons 

COW- EASE 

KEEPS FLIES OFF CATTLE AND HORSES 

Applied with the Cow-Ease Sprayer Put up in Gallons, ■• Gallons and Quarts 

MANUFACTURED BY 

Carpenter -Morton Company 

PAINTS, VARNISHES and PAINT SPECIALTIES " 

Established 1840 

77-79 Sudbury Street, Boston, Mass. 
60 



Hardware Age 

(THE RETAILERS" NATIONAL WEEKLY) 

FIRST IN SUBSCRIPTIONS FIRST IN ADVERTISING 

FIRST IN THE HEARTS OF ALL HARDWARE MEN 



THE investment of $2.00 in a subscription to Hardware 
Age will bring to your store for the next 52 weeks 
the brightest, newsiest, and most instructive trade 
journal published anywhere in the world. 

It will post you on market movements, price changes, 
selling campaigns, store kinks, show-card writing, studies 
and examples of store advertising, window displays and the 
thousand and one other merchandising suggestions of compel- 
ling interest to every hardware merchant. 

Begin your subscription with the Retailers' Convention 
Number June 22nd. This issue will contain a full report of 
the Boston Conventions. 

Hardware Age will increase the efficiency of your force, 
add to your volume of sales and diminish the red ink entries 
on your ledger. 



TRY IT FOR A YEAR 



HARDWARE AGE 

239 West 39th Street, New York City 



61 




Gillette Bulldog Set - $5.00 

// pays to feature quality 

FOR years Gillette Safety Razors have backed up 
every claim made as to quality, and now the superior 
cleanliness, quickness and comfort of the Gillette 
shave is never disputed. 

The Gillette is " Made in New England " and 
sells honorably on its own original, intrinsic merits. 

The Gillette helps build up the dealer's reputation 
for high grade, honest goods that give real and lasting 
satisfaction. 

It pays to pap for quality 

Gillette Safety Razor Company 

Boston, U. S. A. 



62 



P)ISCOUNTS on the J-M Fire 
*-^ Extinguisher are generous, rig- 
idly upheld and uniform — quantity 
is not a price factor. 





Instantly extinguishes any 
kind of incipient blaze and is 
especially effective against fires 
arising from oil, gasoline, grease 
and electric arcs, on which 
other chemicals and water are 
often ineffective and dangerous. 

Inspected, tested and 
labelled by the Underwriters' 
Laboratories, Inc., and listed 
as an approved fire appliance 
by the National Board of Fire 
Underwriters. 

Listed to sell at $8.00 

[Bracket Included] 

SAVE 159? ON AUTO- 
MOBILE FIRE INSURANCE 

Write for Literature 

H. W. Johns-Manville Co, 



Boston 

Chicago 

Cleveland 



New York 
Philadelphia 
Pittsburgh 
Toronto 



St. Louis 
San Francisco 
Seattle 



63 



Dana Hardware Company 

22 to 32 PEARL STREET, BOSTON, MASS. 
Hardware and Sporti ng Goods 



AGENTS FOR PRODUCTS OF 



Plymouth Cordage Co. 
Bird & Son 

J. Stevens Arms & Tool Co. 
Mast, Foos & Co. 

Washington Cutlery Co. 



John C. Paige & Co. 

INSURANCE 

65 KILBY STREET, BOSTON 



WALTER B. HENDERSON 
THOMAS H. RATIGAN 
ERNEST B. FLETCHER 
LEWIS A. WALLON 



EVERETT C. BENTON 
HERBERT A. KNEELAND 
ARTHUR A. LAWSON 
CHARLES E. BENTON 



New York Office, 1 1 1 Broadway 



G4 



Garage Door Hardware 

THE KIND THAT SATISFIES 



Coburn Trolley Truck 
Manufacturing Co. 

HOLYOKE, MASS. 



YOU WILL BE WELCOME AT OUR SPACE 



SEE DEMONSTRATION OF 
AUTOMOBILE THAT RUNS 
WITHOUT GASOLINE 



65 



Boston 

Stock 

Gears 



-rrrr-,. 




Immediate 
Delivery in 
Ordinary 
5gr Quantity 



,m~--£ 



OUR GEARS ARE CARRIED IN STOCK BY 

CHANDLER & FARQUHAR CO. 

36 Federal Street, Boston, Mass. 

CUTTER & WOOD SUPPLY CO. 

70 Pearl Street, Boston, Mass. 
Catalog sent on request 



Boston Gear Works, 



NORFOLK DOWNS' 
QUINCY, MASS. 



Regarded by Ford Owners as the 
Standard Speedometer Equipment, the 
FORD SPECIAL 

Corbin-Brown 
Speedometer 

"The Speedometer of 
Absolute Accuracy" 

The demand for this instrument 
is now greater than ever before and 
from the outset it has been a steady 
seller. Every Ford owner is a 
prospective purchaser, and you 
know what that means — quick 
sales, quick profits and lots of them. 
Other speedometers have been tried 
on the Ford, but it remained for the 
Corbin - Brown special model to 
return absolute, 100' , satisfaction. 

Write for particulars today. 
Get in touch with your jobber al 
once. Catalog, price lists and 
discounts upon request. 



66 





"^%l^^ v 



IIARDWARE MEN attending 
the Convention are cordially in- 
vited to visit us at our factory. 

Athol is 82 miles from Boston 
on the Fitchburg Division of the 

B. & M. 






The L. S. Starrett Co. 

ATHOL, MASS. 



67 



THE 



First National Bank of Boston 



70 FEDERAL STREET 



We seek through courtesy to maintain the 
business our reputation for integrity secures 



Capital $5,000,000 
Surplus $ 1 7,350,000 Deposits $ 1 1 0,000,000 



//////////////////////////////>///////////////////////// /////////////////////////////////////////A | 




Headquarters for 

Michigan 
Minnesota 
Wisconsin 
Indiana 
and 
Carolinas 



Delegations 



C. H. GREENLEAF & CO. 

Proprietors 

C.H.Greenleaf E.W. Knight E.B.Rich 



f ///////^r •// w w//j^i/'///ii^ 



^///^'/////////////////.\ 



VENDOME 

Commonwealth Ave L> Dartmouth Street. 



r,s 






£--, ^^ 



THE 

>imonds 
Mfg. Company 

is one of the landmarks of 
quality in New England 
Tool history. This firm, 
known as 
" The Saw Makers " 
is now world famous be- 
cause of the excellence of 
its product. Home office, 
Fitchburg, Mass. branch 
offices and factories 
throughout the United States 
and Canada. 

Established 1832 



69 



Compliments of 



C F. HOVEY COMPANY 

PR Y GOODS 

Summer, Chauncy and Avon Streets 
BOSTON, MASS. 



JVER ST. nln| 



eOSTOK. MA6S. 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



Efficient Supplies for Hardware Dealers 

Loose-Leaf Goods Manifold Books 

Binders Filing Material 



The George A. Goodridge Co. 

32 OLIVER STREET, BOSTON 



70 




Two New 
Styles 

GENUINE 

Dover 

Egg 
Beaters 

Beat Quickest 
Clean Easiest 



Stands Alone 
in a Bowl 




Double Number 

of Floats 

Beats Twice as Fast 



DOVER 

Automobile Specialties 

ARE THE LEADERS IN THEIR LINE 

DOVER DOVER DOVER 

Standard Auto Funnel Electric Light Duplex Oil Measure 

Bulb Case 





Send for 1916 Catalogue 

DOVER STAMPING & MFG. CO, 

CAMBRIDGE, MASS. 



71 



ft 1USSWIK" Line 

A GOOD ONE TO HOLD TO 

Complete in Builders' Hardware, including 
specialties not found elsewhere. 

Good Management — Good Goods — Good 
Treatment. 

We are Boston representatives. 

New England Agents National Steel Joist 
and Wall Hangers. 

Chandler & Barber Co, 

124 Summer Street, Boston, Mass. 

Established 1867 

NEW ENGLAND CHAIN WORKS 

Clinton E. Hobbs Co. 

Successors to 

THOS. WYATT MANUFACTURING CO. 

and 

PROVIDENCE CHAIN WORKS 
A 11 Kinds of Chain, Chain Hoists, 
Link Belting and Roller Chain 

Sales Office: 

12 PEARL STREET, BOSTON, MASS. 

Sales Agents : 

J B. CARR CO. WOODHOUSE CHAIN WORKS 

and DIAMOND CHAIN & MANUFACTURING CO. 

72 



BOSTON WATER PURIFIER 



This illustration is specially designed for family 
use. The filtering material is unglazed porous 
porcelain, which arrests all suspended matter as 
the water percolates through it by gravity to 
the glass globe. 



We also manufacture a combined filter 
and cooler for office use, etc. Entirely 
automatic. Also filters for Hotels, Res- 
taurants, Bar. 

AGENTS WANTED IN EVERY CITY 

Send for CATALOG 

BOSTON FILTER CO. 

CHELSEA STATION 
BOSTON, MASS., U. S. A. 





BROWN & SHARPE MACHINISTS' TOOLS 

have played an important part in the building up of these 
great works, and in doing so have established a reputation 
for themselves throughout the world. These are the tools 
good workmen have insisted on having for more than 
sixty years. 

1000 VARIETIES— ONE QUALITY 

Brown & Sharpe Mfg. Co., Providence, R. I., U. S. A. 



73 



ESTABLISHED 1810 



Jones, McDuffee & Stratton Co. 

Importers, Wholesalers and Retailers of 

Crockery, China and Glassware 

In Original Packages, or Repacked to Suit the Buyer 

The largest stock and most varied on this Continent from the Common to the 
Highest Qrade, comprising the best products of foreign and American Wares 



English, 
French, 

German, 
Austrian, 

Chinese and 

Japanese 

China 




French, 

English, 
Bohemian 
and 
American 

Table 
Glassware 



Over 150 Stock Patterns of Dinner Ware'; 

In ■which sets can be had in items desired and matched for years to come 

Hotels, Clubs, Steamships, Yachts, Institutions and Family Outfits, Dinner 
Sets, Banquet Services, Toilet Ware, Plant Pots, Cuspidors, Bric-a-Brac, 
Umbrella and Cane Holders, Vases, Electroliers, Lamp Goods, Lanterns, Etc. 

Wedding and Complimentary Gifts 

China Decorated to Order in Colors and in Gold with Names, Monograms, 

Initials and Crests for Families, Hotels, Yachts, Gifts, etc., at short notice. Also 

Glassware Engraved to Order. Estimates Given. 

WARE IN BOND FOR EXPORT 

Jones, McDuffee & Stratton Co. 

WHOLESALE and RETAIL 
(TEN FLOORS) 

33 FRANKLIN STREET BOSTON, MASS. 

Near Washington and Summer Streets 



71 



They are to be seen to be appreciated 

THE MOUNTAIN AND LAKE REGION 
SEASHORE AND INLAND COUNTRY 

Just the place to spend your Vacation 



Comfortably 

Reached 
By 



Boston 
f Maine 

.« Railroad 



Scenery 
All the 
Way 



SEND FOR BOOK— MAILED FREE 
State Territory You Prefer 

ADDRESS 

PASSENGER TRAFFIC DEPARTMENT 

Room 15 BOSTON, MASS. North Station 



BEST TRAINS 
NEW YORK 



ARE VIA THE 



LEAVE BOSTON 

9.15 

A.M. Except Sun. 

12.00 

NOON Daily 



BOSTON 

AND 

ALBANY 

RAILROAD 



LEAVE BOSTON 

4.00 

P.M. Daily 

11.40 

P.M. Daily 



Steel equipment. Dining Cars. Information concerning tickets will be gladly furnished 
upon request at Trinity Place Station, 'Phone Oxford 1027, or to C. E. Colony, City 
Passenger and Ticket Agent, 298 Washington Street, Boston, Phone Fort Hill 2140 

BOSTON & ALBANY RAILROAD 

(N. Y. C. R. R. CO., LESSEE) 



75 



PUT YOUR STORE IN LINE 

FOR THE TRADE 



DU PONT 

Creates by Extensive and Effective 
Advertising Activities 

Make your store the headquarters for DU PONT 
EXPLOSIVES and SPORTING POWDERS 

Our farm-paper advertising is creating a big demand for RED CROSS 
FARM POWDERS, — the safest agricultural powders for blasting work 
about the farm. Every acre is a trade-maker, — increase your sales to 
farmers by selling the explosives required for farm improvement. 



TRAPSHOOTING CAMPAIGN 

Thousands of enthusiastic trapshooters are customers of the dealers selling 
loaded shells, targets and other sporting goods. Interest in trapshooting is 
sustained by our presentation of trophies to individuals and clubs, conduct- 
ing Beginners' Shoots and a Trapshooting School at Atlantic City, and the 
frequent attendance of our "expert shooter-salesmen" at clubs. 



Stock DU PONT SPORTING POWDERS in loaded 
shells and in bulk, — the best-known and easiest to sell. 



THE DU PONT HAND TRAP is a device for throwing clay targets. It 
is used by experts, novices, gun clubs, yacht parties, outing clubs, at the camp, — any- 
where it is possible to conduct trapshooting. The Hand Trap is widely advertised, and 
when displayed with sporting goods attracts immediate attention and is a quick seller. 
Packs into suitcase, — weighs about 7 pounds — easily handled, and retails for $4.00. 



For Booklets, Hangers, Advertising Helps and Further 
Information, Write to Advertising Division 

E. I. du Pont de Nemours & Co. 

WILMINGTON, DELAWARE 



76 



WITH THE BEST WISHES 



of 



Twist Drill Co. 



NEW YORK CLEVELAND CHICAGO 



Why pay list when you can get 

Fire Insurance at 50% off 

and 

Plate Glass Insurance at 25% off 

of the 

Wisconsin Hardware Mutuals 

at 
STEVENS POINT, WISCONSIN 

77 



Marsters' Tours 

"Seeing America" 

Under escort : Yellowstone 
Park, Grand Canyon, tours 
including all of California and 
the Canadian Rockies. 

Summer Tours under escort 
and independent: Bermuda, 
Atlantic City, Old Point 
Comfort, Niagara Falls, 
White Mountains. 

Sendfor-TRAVEL", 
a magazine replete with 
Vacation trips and tours 

GEO. E. MARSTERS, Inc. 

248 Washington Street, Boston, Mass. 



78 



A Prosperous Field Well Covered 

Here's food for thought for New England Hardware Manufacturers seeking 
better distribution through the retail hardware trade in the Middle and Central 
Western States. 

Following is the exact paid circulation of the NATIONAL HARD- 
WARE BULLETIN — the official publication of the National Retail Hardware 
Association, in 13 wealth-producing states: 

Illinois - ... 1193 Missouri - - - - 569 

Indiana - - - - 1016 Nebraska - - - - 579 

Iowa 952 North Dakota - - 413 

Kentucky - - - 337 Ohio 936 

Michigan - - - 1199 Oklahoma - - - 356 

Minnesota - - - 1310 South Dakota - - 257 

Wisconsin - - - - 1219 

This circulation is guaranteed, and is respectively 2,612 and 4,467 greater 
than the circulation of the two other hardware papers which come nearest equal- 
ing the BULLETIN'S distribution in these states. 

Total circulation per issue 16,500. 

The July number will print the official report of the Boston Convention. 

Forms close July 1st. 

NATIONAL HARDWARE BULLETIN 

ARGOS, INDIANA 



For Nearly 
Forty Years 

Burdett College 

has specialized in training and placing 
students in Business. Many of Boston's 
most successful business men are its 

graduates. S end for Catalog 

18 BOYLSTON STREET, BOSTON 

79 




The United Drug Company 




o 



l T T in the Fenway district of Boston, neighboring the Museum of Fine 
Arts. Harvard Medical School. New England Conservatory of Music, 
the Gardner Venetian Palace, and Symphony and Horticultural Halls, 
stands the great building of the United Drug Company, the second largest 
mercantile corporation in the state of Massachusetts. 

The growth of the Company, from small beginnings only thirteen years 
ago, is one of the marvels in the commercial history of New England. 

The Company was organized in 1903. to carry out the ideas of Mr. Louis 
K. Liggett with reference to co-operative retail drug-store merchandising. Mr. 
Liggett — then only a young man in his twenties — came out ot the West, located 
in Boston, and by business ability, energy and indomitable will proceeded to 
build an industrial institution that today claims the attention of all who are in- 
terested in mercantile affairs, as a splendid illustration of the possibilities of CO- 
OPERATION applied to big business. 

The United Drug Company's plant in the Roxbury district comprises torn 
acres of floor area devoted to the manufacture of Chemicals, Perfumes, Toilet 
Articles. Household Remedies, etc. It operates an immense Candy Factory in 
the North-end of Boston, not far from the historic home of Paul Revere, and 
has a Fruit Syrup Plant at Lewis Wharf. 

Through its subsidiary company, the Louis K. Liggett Company, the 
United Drug Company operates 154 large drug stores in the metropolitan cen- 
tres of the East, its retail properties including the J aynes-Riker-Hegeman Stores 
recently acquired. Among the main- ownerships of the United Drug Company 
are the following: 

A Candy Factory in Baltimore; Distributing Warehouses in Chicago. St. 
Louis, San Francisco, and Liverpool (England); a Manufacturing Plant in To- 
ronto (Canada); a Spring Water Companj ; a large Cigar and Tobacco Distrib- 
uting business. 

The Company's President - Founder. Mr. Louis K. Liggett, has just re- 
tired from the presidency of the Boston Chamber of Commerce. He is a splendid 
type ot the affable, democratic, young business man of today. Both Mr. Liggett 
and all the members of the I'nited Drug Company staff are greatly interested 
in the Retail Hardware Dealers' Convention, owing to the fact that the 14th 
Annual I'nited Drug Company Convention will be held in Boston, August 21'. 
23, 24, 25; and Mr. Liggett hopes, as he expresses it, " To get a few live ' Tips' 
from tin- men that know how to do things." 

SO 



Tungsten 
Steel 




Hack 
Saws 



Registered U. S. Patent Office 

SATISFACTION GUARANTEED 

No matter what brands your stock may now include, or what brands 
you may have sold, you have not known best Hack Saw satisfaction 
without "Tiger." Made by men who know. New England quality. 

Bay State Saw and Tool Mfg. Co. 

30 WHITTIER STREET, BOSTON, MASS. 



PLYMOUTH 

1 620 — 1 9 1 6 
The Favorite Sail of Historic Interest 

The magnificent and spacious Iron Steamer SOUTH SHORE 

On the Boat : — Fine Dining Saloon, Staterooms, Music, The 
Victoria Reid Ladies' Orchestra. 

Jit "Plymouth : Plymouth Rock, Pilgrim Hall, Burial Hill, 
Forefathers' Monument. 

This Sail down Boston Harbor will give you a 
panoramic view of the Entire South Shore Coast Line 

Daily at 10 A. M. Round Trip $1.00 
Chicken and Lobster Dinner - 1 . 00 

Steamers leave from RQWE'S WHARF Boston, Mass. 



81 



PRINTING 




Catalogues, Booklets, Magazines, 
Newspapers our specialty. We 
print the N. E. Hardware News 
and other well-known publications. 



E. L. GRIME S COMPANY 

122 PEARL STREET :: :: BOSTON, MASS. 
Fort Hill, 5972 and 5973 



S2 



New England Grown Seed 

For New England 

Grown by 

THOMAS W. EMERSON CO. 

Dealers in 

Grass, Field and Garden Seeds 



LAWN SEED A SPECIALTY 



2 1 3 and 2 1 5 State Street, Boston, Mass. 



SAMSON CORDAGE W0RK5 

MANUFACTURERS OF J^jfc 5A5H [QR^ CLOTHES 

BRAIDED CORDAGE JH&t LINES. SMALL LINE5 

AND COTTON TWINES «gf ULsiw/wmmw 
BOSrOJV 4$£$% MASS, 



Manufacturing Specialists of High-Grade 
Educational and Industrial Motion Pictures 

Makers of the N. E. H. D. A. Invitation Films 
GENERAL COMMERCIAL PHOTOGRAPHERS 



DADMUN COMPANY 

STUDIOS and GENERAL OFFICES 
1 Washington Street, Boston, Mass. 



83 



A Quarter of 



The principle of mutuality restnctively applie 
Amount on One Risk, A Membership Privilek 
and an unequalled financial strength. 

These fiscal institutions mark the constructs 
ware Men. 

The largest Stock Fire Insurance Co. in tr: 
$2,755,000,000 at risk; has $38,000,000 tot; 
for each one million at risk. 

The National and The Pennsylvania Han 
14 years old respectively, have $10,800,000 j 
therefore have over $23,000 for each One Millie 

The National and The Pennsylvania pc 
insurance cost showing by comparison that polu 
companies 66 §% more money for a pronounced 

If you question these statements or count th 
dividends, please write the Secretary. 



M 



Million Assets 

to Fire Insurance — A Class Risk, A Limited 
Only, has produced a tremendous Annual Dividend 

ability and determined spirit of the organized Hard- 

United States, which is 63 years old, has 
assets, and therefore has approximately $ 1 4,000 

ware Mutual Fire Insurance Cos., which are 13 and 
risk; have a Quarter of a Million Assets, and 
at Ris^ 

dividends (have for years), which produce a net 
holders in stock companies are paying said stock 
inferior policy. 

reasoning specious, or desire to share in these 

C. H. MILLER, Pres. and Treas. 
W. P. LEWIS, Secy. 
Huntingdon, Pa. 

85 



The Standard Tool Co. 

TWIST DRILLS 

CARBON and HIGH SPEED STEEL 
REAMERS, MILLING CUTTERS, 
TAPS AND SPECIAL TOOLS 

Why not sell tools guaranteed to be of the 

HIGHEST QUALITY 



NEW YORK 



CLEVELAND 



CHICAGO 




l&rfai 



PAINTS AND OILS 





m_ 



_27 FllOt &t. 

fife**/ PncrnA/ 




DISTRIBUTORS 



Theatrical Stage Hardware 
Chi-Namel 



86 



MURESCO ^£J2B^ MOORAMEL 

THE IDEAL WALL /3%P™F^ek TH ^ PERFECT WHITE 

MAsM enamel 

IMPERVO tOgf SANI-FLAT 

VARNISHES ARE THE ^S|1«§P PRODUCES A BEAUTIFUL 
BEST MADE X<a5JSS^ FLAT FINISH 

Gould & Cutler, Inc. «£2£*X*~ 



FIFTY CENTS 

TAKES THE 

NEW ENGLAND 



HARDWARE NEWS 

TO YOUR ADDRESS 
FOR ONE YEAR 

A II of the New England Hardware 
News Each Month 

ADDRESS 

EDITOR, 1 76 Federal Street 
BOSTON, MASS. 




Established 
1872 



TELEPHONE 

2005 

OXFORD 



Incorporated 
1908 



PRINTING X BINDING 



PRINTING THAT ATTRACTS, —THE KIND 
THAT POSSESSES CHARACTER AND 
DRAWING POWER— THE KIND THAT 
BRIDGES THE CHASM WHICH SEPARATES 
THE BUYER ANDSELLER— THE KIND 
THAT NEVER FINDS ITS WAY TO THE 
WASTE BASKET TILL WORN OUT FROM 
CONSTANT HANDLING— THAT IS THE 
"W00DBERRY" KIND, WHICH, WITH THE 
"WOODBERRY" PROMPT SERVICE, IS 
VALUED AND APPRECIATED BY MANY 
SATISFIED CUSTOMERS. WHY NOT BE- 
COME ONE OF THEM? THIS COPY OF 
THE NEW ENGLAND HARDWARE 
DEALERS' ASSOCIATION GUIDE 
BOOK IS A SAMPLE OF 
"WOODBERRY" QUALITY 



88 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 078 082 




























